closed shutters on a Parisian building

Why Everything Closes in France in August

If you’ve ever tried to do anything administrative in France during the month of August, you’ve probably hit a wall — or a closed door. Or maybe a handwritten note taped to a window that reads, “fermeture annuelle, réouverture le 2 septembre,” or something similar. 

Most shops close down too (with the exception of many places in Paris that cater to tourists), bakers disappear, your doctor and dentist seem to vanish, and entire neighborhoods go quiet. I remember being extremely confused the first summer I moved here. Why does everything close in France in August? I wondered. 

The short answer? Vacation is sacred here. The long answer is tied to French labor laws, cultural values, and a national love of slowing down. What was once very confusing to me makes total sense and has become just one more thing about the French I admire deeply.

The History Behind August Shutdowns in France

The long-standing tradition of closing up shop in August began in the early 20th century when France introduced paid vacation leave for all workers in 1936. At first, it was only two weeks (the unfortunate truth for most Americans à nos jours), but it eventually grew to the five weeks of paid leave the majority of French employees enjoy today.

For the working class, August was the logical time to take that break. School was out, the weather was nice across most of the country, and most factories and workplaces already had reduced activity. It soon became part of the social rhythm in France, where everyone from small business owners to government workers collectively stepped away from their responsibilities and headed out of town.

Even now, many companies shut down entirely for the month. Government offices operate on reduced staff and administrative processes grind to a near halt (good luck renewing your visa in August). Again, this is something I admire so much about the French, and is something that would never happen in the US. When Americans want something done, they want it done yesterday. In France, there’s a better understanding that, actually, we are human beings, and every human being deserves a break. Wild concept, isn’t it?

Where Does Everyone Go in August?

As they should, the French love their summer exodus, and in true French fashion they even have words for it:

  • Les juilletistes: those who vacation in July
  • Les aoûtiens: those who vacation in August

August is more popular, but I also understand why some people prefer to take their vacation in July — there’s something to be said about taking a holiday before everyone else does and a few of the families I used to babysit for leaned much more juilletiste.

Many French families have long-standing vacation traditions, like returning to the same small village year after year, maisons de campagne that have been in the family for generations (surprisingly, unlike in the US, families of nearly all social standings have “country homes,” another thing that initially shocked me), and spending time with the same neighbors who may have also fled the city. For others, it’s a chance to disconnect, travel internationally, or just step away from the daily grind.

So, What Actually Closes in August?

My American brain initially really could not comprehend the idea of the majority of businesses closing in August. But, how are they okay with nothing getting done for an entire month?! I wondered constantly. Growing up in a capitalist country where the bottom line is the most important thing, this cultural norm seemed impossible. 

But, folks… it is certainly possible and the country doesn’t fall apart at the seams every summer. The real answer to what actually closes is: more than you think, but technically, not everything. 

Here’s what you can expect to be closed:

  • Independent boulangeries and patisseries
  • Pharmacies (unless it’s their turn to be the “pharmacie de garde,” or an emergency pharmacy that’s required to stay open)
  • Family-run restaurants and cafés
  • Doctors, dentists, and specialists
  • Small boutiques and bookstores
  • Many post offices, banks, and local government buildings

Again, this isn’t always the case in Paris, where tourists have forced the city to Americanize in many ways. But, in smaller towns and residential areas in larger cities, it’s not unusual to find entire streets shut down.

Here’s what tends to stay open:

  • Large supermarkets like Carrefour, Monoprix, and Franprix
  • Chain restaurants and fast food restaurants
  • Tourist attractions, museums, and monuments
  • Major transportation hubs

What This Means for Daily Life

August in France definitely requires some adjustment, but once you hop on the vacances train you’ll see it’s not that complicated. Make a note to check your favorite store windows for handwritten closure signs. Refill any necessary prescriptions early and make doctor’s appointments well in advance (or simply wait for September). And, by all means, avoid anything involving French bureaucracy until la rentrée, for your own mental sanity. 

I often learned this the hard way, but once I did, I got used to it and the August closures became another part of my normal everyday French life.

These closures are a direct reflection of how the French think about time, work, and rest. Unlike many Anglophone cultures, where rest is earned through burnout, the French see vacation as a right, not a reward. And it’s not just a week or a long weekend, it’s a true break.

What’s more, there’s no guilt attached to this rest. No pressure to stay plugged in, and certainly no Slack messages coming through. No, “I’m technically on vacation, but feel free to reach out.” A French person would never say something like that, and I really respect them for it.

As such, TAIP will also be taking our summer holidays for the rest of the month of August. We’ll resume posting regularly after la rentrée — see you all on the other side 😉

Photo by Eric Prouzet on Unsplash

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Paris in summer

August: Dead For Parisians, But Plenty Lively For Visitors

When I first came to Paris I was told that the city was deserted in August.  I bemusedly nodded my assent to the theory of a “group vacation” because, like most Americans, it was hard to conceive of the concept of a month-long vacation at the end of summer, much less a city-wide version of one.  But in many ways, it’s a self-fulfilling prophecy.

You come out of your flat in the morning to head to your patisserie and your morning bread fix.  But it’s closed.  So is your backup a street over.  And your third choice.  Your pharmacy is closed.  Your fruit market.  The gal who cuts your hair.  The guy who cuts your keys.  Yes, even the cobbler.  The gardien(ne) of your building (if you have one) is on the act too.  You start to ask yourself, “What the heck am I doing here?  I should probably go too!”  And just like that, many years ago, the August holiday was born.

What does all this mean for those visiting Paris for whom August is perfect for any number of reasons related to their personal and work lives?  Well, keep in mind that there are always two Parises: the tourist Paris and the working Paris.  There are major intersections between the two, like the Champs, the Tuileries, Rue Montorgueil, and the Luxembourg Gardens, to name a few.  With fewer Parisians in Paris in August, the tourists will have a bit more space to themselves, though they’ll hardly notice.  Yes, some restaurants and shops will be closed, but almost everything a visitor wants to see here will be open.

And, if you venture out to the less touristy parts of Paris, like Stalingrad or Montparnasse, you’ll find a subdued and sleepy atmosphere that will give you an entirely different impression than the heaving bustle that the city normally offers.

I maintain that the shoulder months of May and September are the best to see Paris for a number of reasons but the weather in August is still lovely, the sunsets are spectacular, and Versailles does water shows unavailable any other time of the year.

So come, and have the place to yourself.  If you want to see what I’m talking about, I don’t know if anything captures the languorous August mood (just as much for the mournful notes from Sidney Bechet as for the shots picked by Darius Khondji) better than the opening montage from Midnight in Paris.  

Photo by Rodrigo Kugnharski on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.