How did I land here, so comfortably that there are no plans to leave? In fact, I was looking to buy a house in Paris; yes, I did say “house.” According to an article I once read in Capital magazine, there are 3,200 houses in Paris. My criteria? Minimum two rooms, with garden, within Paris itself, not expensive. When one becomes sensitive to houses in Paris, you will realize that they exist in every arrondissement; however, some neighborhoods are more expensive than others!
Lost on the outskirts of Paris the 20th arrondissement has lots going for it: it has the most number of associations of all the arrondissement of Paris, lots of unexpected greenery, and areas with a small town atmosphere.
Le Parc de Belleville
This is the largest park in the 20th arrondissement, on a hill whose high point is where rue des Envierges, rue du Transvaal, and rue Piat meet. From this belvedere stretches a view of Paris all the way to the Eiffel Tower on the other side of the city. The belvedere itself is an open mosaiced, graffitied pavilion with many promenaders rambling around. On a sunny day, it is pleasant to sit in one of the cafés overlooking the park before starting along the grassy, flower-strewn, winding walks passing a tiny vineyard, a children’s playground accompanied by a waterfall fountain leading ever downward, to 47 rue de Couronnes. Or do things the hard way: come up 600 feet from below and time the climb to arrive at the top as the sun is going down to behold all of Paris at its rosiest.
L’hermitage
A lovely quiet little flower-filled park (there are even flower boxes across the top of the recycle garbage shed) away from the maddening crowd. A spray mister is installed near the children’s play area which was greatly appreciated on our visit on a very hot day. There are also public toilets for visitors’ comfort (when they work). In one corner can be found the last Regency folly. I have been told that the French term for such a structure comes both from the idea of leaves, feuilles, because they would typically be constructed deep in the park belonging to a stately mansion, and folie where gentlemen’s mad, or folle, carousing would transpire.
La ferme de Charonne
This unique parcel of land is devoted to organically growing small plants: flowers, herbs, and, most famously micro-greens, which can be purchased in their boutique. On entering, can be seen a large perspective of the “farm” with all types of plants, flowers, and a large greenhouse to the left. An employee will be glad to take you on a visit to the greenhouse and even have you taste some of the micro greens. On our visit, we tried the radishes and the mustard greens. We were also taken to where they prepare their beautiful, good-smelling, black compost which they sell at a very low price. In the middle of the gardens, there are small tables around which visitors can sit and take in the air of a miniature field seemingly far from city life.
Neighborhood Plantings
In this heavily built-up city, Parisians have found a number of ways to satisfy a need to work the soil and grow things.
Community gardens have been popping up wherever empty lots have been found. Requests to use such plots can be submitted by a group of gardening enthusiasts who have formed a legally recognized association where they will work together growing flowers and vegetables. Schedules are set up to work the garden and new members are often welcome to join. It is a pleasure to visit and chat with the members about how their gardens grow. Any tiny bit of unused land will do. Usually, they can be visited on Saturday afternoons. Should one feel the need to work the soil, it is often possible to join the association that tends these gardens.
One such example is the space to be found between two buildings at 54 rue St Blaise. This strip of land between two high buildings is being worked by a very friendly group who have chosen whatever plants can be grown in the shade. I do remember during a jasmine malady in Paris I had seen the workers cutting it way back. I was happy to visit this tree now some 5 years later to see it growing, albeit only up to knee level.
With such limited growing space, some people have found ways to turn rooftops into what is known as “suspended gardens,” as they are suspended far above ground. In the 20th, at the top of Collège Flora Tristan, 2000 square meters of garden are being cultivated by students and members of the garden staff. Visiting days for the general public are scheduled and it is best to reserve by sending a short email to the organizers. Beginning in May and until November, their produce is put on sale at their “Marché de la Salamandre” located on the Square de la Salamandre.
The metal grids set into the earth around the foot of the trees along the streets were originally considered protection, although dogs have found them very handy for their needs. Since 2015, Paris has little by little taken them out as Parisians have signed up to use these tiny spaces to create vegetation. Parisians enthusiastic about greening Paris streets have built low fences and have planted all kinds of flowers at the base of the trees. The Place Edith Piaf is especially well-endowed with circumambient plants around three tree trunks, and other plantings just across the rue Belgrand. Keep your eyes peeled for what is growing and blooming. And when hollyhock and four-o’clock seeds are ripe, anyone with a green thumb can pick the seeds and then grow their own plants.
Townhouses and Small-town Constructions
Scattered throughout the 20th are the remains of small-town life in the form of single-family residences, many of which were built with the help of bank loans for the working class. It seems, according to a friend, they wanted to house the working class as far from the center of Paris as possible.
The most famous of these is the “campagne à Paris” (the country in Paris). Here, protected by Paris urban planning, is a concentration of single-family homes. Offering a pleasant stroll around three cobblestoned streets, overgrown rose bushes and honeysuckle meet the eye, nose, and face when walking on the narrow sidewalks. Originally built with the help of a mutual trust bank to house working-class families, it is now the most expensive area of single-family dwellings in the 20th arrondissement. A former president has bought a house here and can sometimes be seen at the local market where he is politely greeted as Mr. President. This is a favorite place for cinematographers to shoot scenes for middle-twentieth-century films and here can be found Serge Gainsborough’s recording studio.
La rue des Vignoles is mainly known for the many cul de sacs that run perpendicularly off this street from approximately numbers 28 to 42. The narrow walking lanes are a pleasure to visit with their greenery, decked patios, and decorated doors. In the same section on the street itself can be found a number of cafés and socio-cultural venues. Just off 42 rue des Vignoles is the short street, Michel-de-Bourges, which leads to the Jardin Casque d’Or where visitors can relax in quiet. At the top of the street is the Place de la Réunion, a market square on Thursday and Sunday mornings and a pleasant place to have a drink at one of the surrounding cafés.
Welcome to the 20th, the last of the Paris arrondissements, where tourists rarely tread. Here, hiding in plain sight, are stretches offering a getaway from the big city without ever passing the city limits.
Photo taken at the Parc de Belleville, just before sunset.
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