Note from the editor: Writer Susan Jordan is an American who has been living on her own in Europe since she left the US in 2012. She has lived in France since 2019 and is currently working on her 10-year card application. As a lawyer in the US, she was accustomed to dealing with government bureaucracies and paperwork, but getting accurate information in a foreign country can be overwhelming. She has survived so far and now shares her knowledge with the hopes of helping others. — MS

Where to Live

Americans moving to France, if they are in a position to pay cash, ideally should buy a home here. Since that is not an option for me, I have lived in four French rental apartments in four different departments. I’ve heard that buying a home is much easier than renting, which would not be surprising given my experience.

As a “candidate” for an apartment, one must submit a dossier before viewing a potential rental. This will usually include a document showing monthly income paid in France, three utility bills for the past three months showing a French address, tax returns, an employment contract, and identification (a passport will do). A family guarantor (and resident of France) would be helpful. Sometimes commercial guarantors are acceptable. Of course, buying a home requires substantial paperwork, too, but if you are a cash buyer with sufficient proof of income, the path to moving in should be easier. 

How to Get Around

If you are comfortable with public transportation, living without a car in France is possible. Choosing a city with tram systems is best as many areas of France are quite car-dependent. Bus lines vary a great deal in scope and reliability depending on the commercial operator. French trains have increased their fares since the pandemic and service on some lines has even been dropped. For that reason, I like ride-sharing, otherwise known as covoiturage. 

For intercity travel, blablacar works well if you are selective about the drivers you choose, following reviews and ratings carefully. Flexibility in terms of travel dates and destinations also is helpful when using blablacar. I have known some French people who simply rent a vehicle when they need to travel as a family. This eliminates some bureaucracy involved with car ownership, insurance coverage, as well as the necessity of finding parking near one’s home. Why pay to maintain a deteriorating asset like a car when it can be rented as needed? 

What to Eat and Drink

Food and drink are often less expensive and of higher quality than what is available at the typical US supermarket. Even villages in France have weekly or bi-weekly marchés offering fresh fruit and vegetables in the center of town. Large chain supermarkets like Lidl, Aldi, Leclerc, and Intermarche are usually located on the outer rims of cities, requiring a bus for access. Lidl and Aldi are the best bets for low-priced but generally good-quality products. Sometimes small appliances and clothing can be found at Lidl and Aldi if you don’t mind some searching. 

How and Where to Shop

For furniture and other items for the home, Ikea and other home decor stores can be found on the outskirts of most cities. Brocantes (secondhand shops) and some marchés have less expensive secondhand furniture, with more style options and better quality. Or, if your French is sufficient, you can deal with individuals selling on sites like leboncoin.com but be careful that whatever you buy is actually functional. I prefer payment on delivery rather than ahead of delivery, which can be risky. 

This brings me to one basic French shop with which I have had good consumer experiences. Monoprix has frequent sales beyond the normal  January and June sales and, for my money, the best customer service.  Returning products is just not a common function of most French stores. However, if you show a sales slip (and one time it worked for me without one),  Monoprix will give a cash return within 30 days. Leclerc may give store credit within two weeks with a receipt but this is not a consistent practice across all Leclerc stores. They operate individually, despite the common ownership, so items must be returned only to the store where purchased. The concept of easy cash returns, so familiar to American consumers, has not crossed the Atlantic! 

Living in France on Minimum Wage

Although it’s no doubt more fun and less stressful to live in France with loads of disposable income, it is possible to live on SMIC (salaire minimum de croissance). At the time of writing, SMIC is 1500 euros per month, subject to change when the French budget is passed. If you are of a certain age, discounts can be found for train travel (30%) but not the cinema, oddly. If you have a carte vitale and are lucky enough to not live in a medical desert (at present, unfortunately, I do), most medical costs are covered, except dental and vision.

I am always looking for inexpensive solutions for day-to-day living in France. I will pass on tips as I find them, though that can be as quixotic as an untrained pig hunting for truffles. 

Photo by Jade Marchand on Unsplash

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