I’ve strolled past dozens of brocantes (antique fairs) in my decade in France, but it was only last month that I finally had a mission which took me to one as a participant, not just as a passer-by.
I often tell friends that it’s important to commemorate milestones as you get older. When you’re younger perhaps your family or your superiors will do it for you (a graduation, a promotion) but later in life your achievements and milestones can and should be marked in some way. I tend to do this with a gift which I would ordinarily not have bought for myself, but justified because of an achievement. For example, after a month studying French in the Alps I bought myself a Mondaine Swiss Railways watch. I’ve loved the design since the first summer I spent in Switzerland (2014) and was mesmerized by seeing the railway clocks at all the platforms I stood on. It wasn’t until 2018, four years later, that I “decided” to mark my quantum leap forward in French that I made in the Alps with this gift for myself.
That brings us to my citizenship interview of a couple of months ago and a desire to mark the end of several parts of various journeys. I have loved the classic designs of Saint James for some time now, but have put off buying one of their sweaters (jumpers, my dear UK readers) due to cost. Good, long-lasting clothing does cost more, and I’m not hesitant to pay for such clothing, but perhaps I was waiting for an occasion, and acing my citizenship interview called for one.
And yet, I wondered if I might not be able to pick up the design I wanted at any of the used clothing stores in Paris or at Vinted or Le Bon Coin. A quick search didn’t yield anything in my size for the designs I was looking for, and I didn’t want to put in the time looking through the racks at used clothing stores, even with the easy-to-spot marinière design I was looking for.
“There’s a brocante in the Marais this weekend,” an artsy friend shared. Curious, I thought “why not” and planned on a speed tour of this sprawling event.
But “speed” and “brocante” don’t go together. At all.
I felt very much in the minority. Many people were unhurriedly moving from stall to stall, sometimes nursing a drink or a cigarette. They weren’t sure what they were looking for (if they were looking for anything) but they would know it when they found it. I, on the other hand, was on a mission. I was only looking for vendors selling clothes, men’s clothes, featuring sweaters, in marinière design, from Saint James.
I did move fairly quickly, but still managed to enjoy the rhythms of everyone else around me. I realized about halfway through my hour of diligent perusal that Saint James sweaters aren’t often for sale because people like them so much and as such, keep them.
So, I wouldn’t have my story of finding that sweater and bargaining for it with one of the vendors (all of whom seemed to carry that look of effortless chic necessary to haul out a bunch of “junk” and sell it to hordes of Parisians). But I would still have my sweater, after all.
I made my way to the pocket Saint James store a few streets over and tried on two different styles of the design I was looking for, one a bit more fitted (the traditional version) and the other a bit looser. I really liked both but ended up with the traditional Matelot (no surprise there) and really appreciated the attentiveness and suggestions of the team at this location.
Why are Parisians so fascinated by brocantes? Dozens of reasons, I’m sure, but the main ones are:
- the chance to find that one item that fits their personality and would add an element of charm to their apartment or office
- to stroll with friends and while away an afternoon
- to look for something specific
And while I did not find what I wanted at a brocante, I finally figured out, by experience, just why so many people frequent them. If you’re near one, don’t miss this quintessential French experience.
Photo taken on Rue de Bretagne, just a few steps away from the former Mairie of the 3rd arrondissement, now, along with the 1st, 2nd, and 4th arrondissements, simply known as “Paris Centre.” Notice you can slurp down an oyster on a break from your antique shopping. 🙂
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