I’ve always loved late summer and early fall — “back-to-school” season if you will, though I’ve been out of school for many years at this point. It feels like a fresh start in many ways. My adopted country seems to feel the same, which you’ve likely noticed if you’ve spent an extended amount of time there. La rentrée in France, literally “the return,” permeates nearly every part of French life. 

After the mass exodus of the August holidays, the country seems to come alive, student or not. For my American readers, the closest comparison might be the energy in early January, but in France, it feels like September is the true reset button. Just like I’ve always liked it (no wonder I love it there so much).

The Meaning of La Rentrée in France

While the literal meaning of la rentrée isn’t anything special, in practice, it seems to represent a shift in energy that defines the year — again, even more so than January 1. In France, New Year’s Eve and Day are more about spending time with family and continuing to indulge after the December holidays, not heading to the gym and starting a new diet. Now, I won’t say every French person chooses September to get in shape, but it does feel like a time of new beginnings.

It’s the end of those slow August days when most of the country is on vacation and the moment when schools, workplaces, and even cultural institutions all realign and restart — together. Unlike in the US, where September can feel like just another month on the calendar (especially if you don’t have children), it’s a cultural moment in France.

Back-to-School During La Rentrée in France

That’s not to say that school isn’t a major player in la rentrée. Also unlike in the US, it’s a nationwide return to school. Nearly all of them begin on the same day, no matter where you live. Whether you’re in Paris, Provence, Brittany, or even Corsica, you’ll see crowds of children and adolescents heading back to class at the same time, which contributes to the feeling of it being a shared national moment.

And then there’s the school supply list, which I just have to mention. French parents aren’t just told to buy notebooks and pencils. I was an au pair the first time I was introduced to the extensive liste des fournitures scolaires — a long, detailed list from teachers that often includes specific brands, colors, and paper sizes. Indications like “a blue notebook with large squares, not small,” a very particular pen style, and of course the trousse — the pencil case that’s practically the holy grail for every French child. 

Many families spend the last few weeks of August rushing around to track down the right supplies (I’ve been tasked to help with this bona fide scavenger hunt when I was a nanny). For those on a tight budget, the French government even offers allowances to help cover costs, acknowledging la rentrée in France can be a financial burden for some.

Work Life After Summer

Walk through a French city in August and you’ll often find businesses shuttered or short-staffed. Come September, it can feel like someone switched a proverbial switch. Meetings get scheduled, emails are finally answered, and projects move forward after weeks of delay.

For American expats used to life in the US where vacation is more spread out and work doesn’t slow to a crawl in August, this can feel jarring… but again, I love it. In my opinion, the long break helps get the creative juices flowing again, and once September hits I’m ready and raring to go. That’s exactly how I feel this year, thanks to giving myself most of August off from the TAIP website and our YouTube channel. Very un-American of me, I know.

The Cultural Rentrée

Another thing that makes la rentée in France unique is how far it spills beyond school and work, and right into culture. September is also when French theaters, concert halls, and museums launch their new seasons. You’ll often see posters plastered across the streets of Paris and in the métro for new plays, opéras, movies, and exhibitions all beginning around the same time.

There’s also the rentrée littéraire. Every September, hundreds of new books are released to coincide with la rentrée. Bookstores feature fresh new titles and the publishing world begins to announce nominations for literary prizes like the Prix Goncourt.

In true French fashion it’s quite symbolic — as children go back to school with fresh notebooks, adults start new novels.

To live comfortably amongst the French is to live with the rhythm of la rentrée. And it’s just one of many cultural phenomena that make me feel at home. So, America, you can keep your New Year’s resolutions. You’ll find me making big changes in September.

Photo by Rad Pozniakov on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.