Visiting the marché is one of my favorite weekly activities, and I especially love going with either my French husband (a professional chef) or my French mother-in-law (an incredible cook herself). They seem to know exactly where to go, who to talk to, and what to choose. 

It’s almost as if they’ve lived here their whole lives… oh, wait.

Outdoor markets are a staple of daily life in France and Paris is no exception. You’ll find everything from farm-fresh produce to artisanal cheeses and even household goods, depending on where you go.

Shopping at an outdoor market in Paris is a must, whether you live here too or are just passing through. Here are a few things I wish I had known before going for the first time.

When to Go

Paris markets have specific opening times, so knowing when to go is the first step in planning your visit. Most operate two to three days a week, and the hours can vary from one market to another. Typically, they’re open in the morning and close by early afternoon — usually around 1 or 2pm.

I hate to say it for all of my fellow night owls, but to beat the crowds and get the best selection, you have to get there early in the morning when the vendors are just setting up. My mother-in-law lives and breathes by this. Oftentimes, if she can’t get there by 8am (her market opens at 7am), she won’t go at all. Quel est l’intérêt ? “What’s the point?” she’ll shrug when asked.

Now, there is a caveat to this if budget is a real concern. The other option would be to head out just before closing, as many vendors will be eager to clear out their stock before the next day — at reduced prices to boot.

To find the exact days and hours of the markets you’re interested in, check online or use the app Marcoo.

What Stalls to Expect

If you’ve never been to an outdoor market in Paris before, you’ll notice there’s a wide variety of stands that offer all kinds of things. Wandering through one is truly a feast for the senses — I don’t recommend shopping while you’re hungry or you may end up with a lot more than you originally planned for.

Here’s what you can typically find:

• Seasonal fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
• High-quality cuts of meat, poultry, fresh fish, and seafood.
• A selection of French cheeses, farm-fresh eggs, and sometimes butter.
• Freshly baked bread, pastries, and viennoiseries.
• Rotisserie chicken, roasted potatoes, paella, and other prepared foods.
• Olives, nuts, honey, jams, and spices.
• Some also have stalls with flowers, kitchenware, linens, and apparel.

One of my top questions when shopping with my French fam is: how do you know which vendor to choose? There are often several stalls that sell the same or similar items… how can you tell which one is the best?

After insisting that, “Well I’ve been coming here so long I just know,” didn’t satisfy my curiosity, my husband broke it down a bit further.

Freshness and quality matter. Take a good look at the state of the produce — bright, vibrant colors and firm textures usually mean it’s fresh. Stalls with steady lines of locals are a great place to start, and if the vendors are talkative and friendly (yes, they exist in France) it’s also a good sign. Prices will vary, but steer clear of drastically lower ones as that could indicate, well, lower quality.

And, in the quintessentially French manner, the hubs says very simply that le feeling (the vibe, the ambiance) he gets when stepping in front of a stall determines where he’ll spend his money. 

I’ve somewhat stopped trying to understand what that really means, but that’s another story for another article.

How to Choose Your Produce

Shopping at a French market is different from grabbing groceries at a supermarket. Vendors take pride in their products, and bien sûr, there’s a bit of etiquette involved.

• Look for seasonal produce: French markets focus on in-season fruits and vegetables, so don’t expect to find strawberries or tomatoes in December.
• Check for quality: Remember to look for vibrant colors and firm textures, as well as fresh smells.
• Know Thy Categories: Some markets label produce by origin — bio (organic), local, or imported. I typically go for the organic local stuff over anything imported, unless it’s from Spain, Italy, or another closeby country.
• Let vendors choose for you: Unlike in the US, it’s considered rude to handle the produce yourself. Nothing against you or your cleanliness, but in France, interacting with the vendors is all a part of the experience. Tell them what you want, and they’ll pick the best items for you.
• Ask for recommendations: They also know their products well. Don’t hesitate to ask which melon is the sweetest or what’s best for a recipe you have in mind.

The Best Outdoor Markets to Visit in Paris

There are more than a whopping 80 markets in Paris going on in a given week — from small neighborhood spots to sprawling marchés with stall after stall of goods. Here are a few of the most popular ones, plus one of my personal favorites:

• Marché Bastille (75011): One of the biggest, with everything from organic produce to artisan bread.
• Marché des Enfants Rouges (75003): The oldest covered market in Paris offers a mix of fresh produce, international foods, and one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever tried from Alain Miam Miam. Trust.
• Marché d’Aligre (75012): Known for affordable produce and antiques.
• Marché Raspail (75006): Great if you love organic food and other high-quality products.
• Marché de la Place Monge (75005): My top choice for its intimate, small neighborhood feel and high-quality produce, fresh seafood, and cheeses. It’s right near the Arènes de Lutèce in the 5th arrondissement.

Before you walk out the door, make sure you have cash and reusable bags, and get ready to practice your French. A polite bonjour here and there will get you a really long way. So will a French friend, so bring one of those if you’ve got ‘em too.

Photo by Anurag Arora on Unsplash

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