5 Lessons I Learned from the French

I’ve learned a few lessons during my first 6 months of living in France. Over the past few in particular, I’ve noticed myself starting to adopt mindsets and approaches that inherently go against my cultural grain. To be honest, many things about French life feel more natural to me than my old habits. But like any fish in a new pond, I can still tell the water is different.

Here are a few of the lessons I’m taking with me as I return to the US for the summer.

1. Beauty is important.

The first time I stumbled into the park in my French neighborhood, I was stunned. Not only is it beautifully laid out, complete with a volcanic rock fountain and swans, but it is also incredibly well-kept. The flowers are changed out seasonally; the peacocks in its wildlife preserve are fed and tended to. This kind of beauty requires intentional planning, committed workers, and a generous budget. This is city money we are talking about. The idea of this kind of prioritization of beauty in local government blew my mind. 

Voting for beauty with time, effort, and generosity isn’t something reserved for my local park. Thriving flower shops around every other corner remind me that the French will spend their hard-earned money on bringing a little bit of beauty into their home or a friend’s. 

2. To be is worth more than to do.

This mindset is particularly put on display when it comes to French business hours. A two-hour lunch break is not uncommon for stores in smaller towns. This is because shop owners are often the ones working in their stores, and there isn’t someone else to take over for them during lunch. What’s more, they figure you (the customer) would like to eat lunch, too. So the pharmacy, the bank, the post office, and the little craft shop on the corner may take a break midday.

To my American mind, the idea of a store not being open continuously almost felt offensive on my arrival. I can happily say that is no longer the case. I see the value in taking a pause and appreciate that this allows shop owners to attend to other matters while offering a smaller overhead for their business. 

Though lived in the practical, this cultural foothold can also be seen in French behavior. On a sunny day, it’s normal to see people lying in the grass, sitting on a bench with a book, or walking tranquilly —without the goal of getting steps in. When I think about the idea of seeing someone lying in the grass at a park in my American suburban neighborhood, I would be worried that they weren’t okay. The art of being is something largely lost to the society I was raised in, and I am grateful to have rediscovered my identity as a human being, not as a human-doing, thanks to the French.

3. Conviction is not offensive, it is necessary.

Being convicted of one’s perspective and needs is a part of French society. In customer service situations, it is downright necessary.  You can feel the conviction of the French people everywhere. Walking down the street, you’ll hear the young and the old alike use the word franchement (French for frankly) before launching into their perspective on any given subject. 

There is a confrontational forwardness present in the culture that is refreshing. The French love to “talk it out” and understand the way that those close to them think. I’ve witnessed many a French conversation that could seem like a heated argument resolve in continued, and strengthened friendship. Having been conditioned to not talk about disagreements as an American, this particularly strikes a chord with my understanding of relationships. In the last six months, I have become more acutely aware of the beauty that comes from hashing things out. 

4. Sit down and share.

If you want a drink, you should have it sitting down in the company of others. Water bottles do exist in France, but they are not widely used and are typically smaller than those found in the States. Coffee and tea to go is also a rather recent novelty, that again, is not widely adopted. Beverages and meals are not meant to be consumed quickly, but are rather rituals to facilitate encounters. 

My first meal after moving to France was had over a three-hour conversation in a café. And at the end the three hours, I still had to ask for the check. There is an expectation of slowness that provides the space to share not just coffee, nor merely an afternoon, but one’s very life. 

5. To do a little very well is better than to do a lot.

This mentality can be found in the art of specialty. Every town in France has at least one artisan for each craft of the table: la formagerie, la boucherie, la chocolaterie, la pâtisserie, and let us not forget the oh-so-essential boulangerie. There is a sacredness to the art of making that is protected culturally. Sure, you can get cheese and meat and bread from the supermarket, and perhaps for a cheaper price, but the best of the best is available for purchase just around the corner from the craftsmen themselves. 

This principle is even more evident at the local market. I’ve seen vendors with a singular (massive) wheel of cheese, sharing a piece of their months of work with their community. They’ve mastered one thing, and that’s enough. 

To some, the lessons I’ve learned may seem surprisingly simple, or obscenely obvious. My takeaways speak specifically to my experiences here and stateside. Another person in another town would naturally notice other differences according to their cultural palate.

I think if someone had proposed these ideas to me a year ago, I would have assented to them on a mental plane. But as someone raised in suburban America, my agreement would have been colored with a somewhat utilitarian vision of parks, stores and time. I look forward to carrying these ideas into the way I approach my day-to-day living as I continue to be a student of this lovely land. 

Photo of the pond in my neighborhood park.

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How to Spend a Day in Lyon

Only a 2-hour train ride from Paris, Lyon is a great city for exploring the southeastern side of France. With an accessible airport, well-connected train stations, and an exceptional metro, I’d argue that it is the most visitor-friendly city in the country. 

Living in the South myself, I’m grateful to have this beacon of civilization within arm’s reach. In the past six months alone, I’ve had the opportunity to meet up with three friends passing through Lyon, each on separate occasions.

The first person to show me around the city was a true Lyonnais. I’ve used his blueprint of how to spend a day there on multiple occasions, with little tweaks and variations along the way. If you haven’t explored this ancient city yet, let this be your sign; now is the time.

How to Get Around

You don’t need to wait in line for a metro pass, hassle with an app, or keep track of tickets. Simply scan your touchless payment method (card or phone) at the entry of any public transport and you’re good to go. This applies to all busses, lifts, undergrounds, and trams. It is by far my favorite part about Lyon’s transportation system.

Start at Place Belle-Cœur

In the heart of the city, this square offers a variety of shops and an impressive view of the Fourvière Basilica to the west (your next stop). Surrounded by shops and alleys to get lost in, this uptown center puts its best foot forward. During my most recent trip, I was introduced to La Procure St. Paul, an enchanting bookstore in the plaza with an impressive selection of philosophy and children’s literature. 

Begin the Ascent

After a little browsing, make your way out of the square and across the Saône River on the Bonaparte Bridge. Take in the view on your way. Continue straight to the entrance for the funiculaire. This metropolitan lift offers a direct ride to the foot of the Fourvière Basilica. Scan your touchless payment method at the entrance and be on your way up. 

The Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Spectacular in every sense, this basilica is sure to take your breath away. But before entering, follow along the left side to take a look out at the entire city. The two rivers that divide it, the Saône and the Rhône, can be seen from this vantage point. You’ll also notice the sea of red rooftops, a hallmark of Lyon.

Return to the front to enter the Basilica and brace yourself for more beauty. While inside, don’t miss the crypt entrance inside of the church on the right. 

The Gallo Roman Theatre

When you’re ready to move, take a five-minute walk to the neighboring Roman ruins. This open-air theater is free to explorers. Make your way down from top to bottom. For true history enthusiasts, the Lugdunum Museum offers more on its archeological findings.

Ready to head back down the hill, I’d suggest taking another ride on the funicular. The F1 line, just next to the theater, will take you directly to the Vieux Lyon (old town). On exiting the metro, turn left.

Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste

While in old town, a stop inside the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is indispensable. This magnificent building is home to an astronomical clock, at the end of the left wing. Tracking not only the time, but the years, the days, and the moon, it is a work of art in and of itself. I recommend landing there on the hour, to have the privilege of its full display.

Continuing straight through the square will take you down to the center of the old city.

Old Lyon

This cobblestoned corner is designed for the pedestrian. Riddled with restaurants and shops, Vieux Lyon is an excellent area for getting lunch and spending an afternoon. Cultural references to the city’s history are around every turn — marionette puppets, Lyon’s own Antoine of Saint-Exupéry’s Le Petit Prince, and odes to cinema, to name a few. 

With the invention of the Lumière cinematograph in 1885, Lyon was ground zero for the reproduction of moving images and the movie industry as we know it today. The Cinema and Miniature Museum, as well as the Lumière Museum, offer cinematic histories to true movie fans.

Having walked the breadth of old town, you can cross back to the city’s center on the Feuillée Bridge. This road will lead you directly to Lyon’s city hall. 

Hôtel de Ville and the National Opera of Lyon

Lyon’s city hall is an iconic spot, surrounded by cafés and restaurants centered around the celebrated Bartholdi Fountain. Just around the corner lies the National Opera. For the more courageous, head to its panoramic terrace for a drink — no reservations needed.

Let the Adventure Continue

In a city as vibrant and expansive as Lyon, this proposed itinerary just barely touches the surface of all there is to see and do. There are many theaters, experiences, and museums to explore that I have not had the pleasure of visiting. There’s even a zoo! Don’t be afraid to follow your nose and forge your own path around this lively metropolis.

Photo from my first proper trip to Lyon in 2024. 

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A French Classroom

How I Got a Job Teaching in France (and How You Can Too)

In the fall of 2023, I was heartbroken. I had just returned to the United States after two months in France. I spent the summer interning with a mission organization abroad and fell in love with the country in the process. I knew the only long-term cure for my heartache was to get back to France. But how could I do that for only another three months? No, it needed to be for longer, which would mean needing a visa. Getting a visa would mean needing a job, and how was I going to get a job in France? 

Such was my plight when I met a friend of a friend who taught French in New York. She told me about a program she had done in Paris called TAPIF. After I got back to Texas from visiting my friend, I did a quick Google search and learned that TAPIF stands for Teaching Assistant Program in France. I also learned that it would come with a French visa for the duration of a school year. 

TAPIF is the American Embassy’s face of a French government program that solicits young people from all over the world to teach their native tongue in French public schools. The program currently partners with 77 countries and in 2024 welcomed 2,992 language assistants to France from all over the world.

Who Can Apply for TAPIF?

TAPIF asks applicants to be American citizens (or green card holders) between the ages of 20 and 35 and to prove a B1 level of fluency in French. Also to be included in the dossier (French for “file”) is a letter of motivation for why they want to participate and a letter of recommendation from a teacher or mentor — both in French. No previous teaching or foreign experience is required, though it certainly helps with one’s likelihood of acceptance. For the 2018-19 school year, TAPIF boasted over a 55% applicant acceptance rate for 1,100 positions scattered across France. 

My Application Experience

Finding myself within the program’s age limit, applying was a no-brainer. There was just one catch… I was definitely not at a B1 level of fluency at the time. Discovering the program in October of 2023 and with an application deadline in January of 2024, I was left to go from an A1-ish to a B1 in two and a half months. Having never studied French in a classroom, I had no French teacher or college transcript that could vouch for my knowledge of the language. Therefore, I would need to prove my fluency by a formal test like the DELF. 

A little research led me to discover there was a B1 DELF test offered by the Alliance Français in Dallas on December 12th, about a 45-minute drive from my home. This would render my results at the end of December, just in time for the application deadline in January. I quickly signed up for a course to start the next week and studying French became my job (in addition to my other job).

Passing the DELF means navigating an oral production, oral comprehension, written production, and written comprehension section with a comprehensive score of at least 50%. My scores were far from perfect, but I passed and received my unofficial B1 certificate in time to submit the application to TAPIF. Once it was submitted, the waiting game began. 

What’s the pay?

A language assistant’s average work week consists of teaching for 12 hours in up to three different schools for a modest stipend of €1,010.67 per month. Aside from the visa, perks include France’s generous vacation schedule and a generally lighter workload than an American may be used to. Language assistants are not allowed to give grades or to assign homework, so outside work solely consists of preparing for classes. 

What’s the catch?

One of the more challenging aspects of TAPIF is that applicants have little say in what age students they will teach and where in the country they will live. Postulants are asked for their top 3 academies of the 26 in France (think school districts), if they prefer to live in a big city or the countryside, and if they prefer to teach primary or secondary school. TAPIF clearly states that preferences are in no way promised and if accepted applicants are asked to promise to do the program no matter what assignment they receive. It’s a big ask, but at the end of the day, they can’t force anyone to buy a plane ticket to France and I know people that have turned down their acceptance offer. 

Getting the news

News of acceptance was promised sometime in April, and in natural French style on May 1st I received an apology email that results were not to be expected for another two weeks due to the high number of applications that year. So after a month and a half of holding my breath every time I opened my email, I got the news. I was accepted. 

A few weeks later, at the top of June, I received my assignment to the Academy of Clermont-Ferrand, third on my list of preferences. Naturally, I started sharing the news with friends and researching about the city; however, this was mostly in vain. About two weeks after that, I received news of the department I would work in, the name of one of the three schools where I would teach, and the contact of my liaison for the school district. The Haute-Loire department where I was placed could not be farther from Clermont-Ferrand. At first, I was upset, but on further research of the little town I was placed in, I realized I might not have it so bad. 

Le Puy-en-Velay, though little known by most French people, is a wonder for its beauty and history. The town is a medieval starting point for the Chemin de St. Jacques-de-Compostelle, aka the Camino, and boasts a 12th-century cathedral to match. It has a lively center and attracts artisans of all kinds for its beauty. Though admittedly remote, the landscape is spectacular, with surrounding views for nature lovers like myself. And even better, the level of English here is relatively low, so I am happily forced to use and grow my French vocabulary every day. In terms of a genuine French experience, I won the jackpot with TAPIF. 

Final Thoughts

For obvious reasons, this is not a program for everyone. Though possible, it is not practical to do with a spouse, much less with a family. TAPIF recognizes its salary is scarcely livable for one person and even then, they recommend having a few thousand in savings to make the move and enjoy any additional travel. That being said, it has been an excellent way for me to give living in France a go, and to have a fast-track for gaining employment as a non-native. Each year applications are open from mid fall to late winter. 

To learn more about TAPIF, its requirements, and this year’s deadlines visit their official website here.

Photo is of a French classroom from my first school visit.

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