I know the title may be a contestable claim, and so I will add a tiny disclaimer. The Calanque de Sugiton is the most beautiful nature reserve in France that I have seen with my own eyes.

What is a calanque anyway? It is a geologic formation of a steep valley, submerged in part by the ocean. The Calanque de Sugiton is about a 45-minute drive southeast of the Marseille Saint-Charles train station, positioned on the Mediterranean Sea. 

Of the many calanques found in this region, my local friends advised that I see this one in particular for a few reasons. The first being its beauty. Secondly, as I did not have a car during my stay, it is reachable by public transit (and a bit of willpower). Apart from their advice and a pin on Google Maps, I did no research on where to go once I arrived at my final bus stop. This was admittedly very outside my type-A tendencies. In this guide, I will recount the roundabout way I eventually got where I was trying to go and hopefully provide a clearer path for those looking to explore this magnificent nature preserve.

Getting to the Water

When I got off the B1 bus at the stop “Luminy – Parc National des Calanques,” thankfully, I was not alone. On a Thursday morning at 11 am there were about 15 people headed into the park. We were all equipped with our hiking gear, a backpack of snacks, and water for the journey. Although Google insisted that I stay on the road to arrive at the head of the path, I followed the crowd uphill on the sidewalk to a foot path that was marked with a map of the calanques. At this point, I knew I was in the right place. The wide path continued straight ahead, and so did I. 

About a 30-minute walk through the shaded forest led me to a gravel lot with three options of where to go. To my right led a lookout over the calanque. I was anxious to get down to the water and eat my picnic, so I saved the lookout for later and headed left. I chose a path that was marked for pedestrians only. I figured this must be the way to go. The descent led me around an opening in the cliffs. The view was spectacular in the truest sense. Eventually, I reached another fork in the road. To the right was a steep rocky path that offered a shorter descent to the western beach. However, to the left was a slightly longer path to what was marked as the eastern beach. I figured a longer distance would mean fewer people, and so I continued east on the less steep road. 

My instinct was right; there were fewer people, but the smooth descent soon turned into a tricky maneuver along the cliff and over an unwelcoming patch of rocks. My climbing skills were tested and a friendly older woman, who clearly knew her way around, showed me how to get down onto the farther beach. She continued on her way, and I had the rocks and the ocean to myself — for a moment. 

Since it was a little after noon, I started to eat my salad on the shore. I was a few bites in when I noticed a man coming around the rocks I had just come from. A moment later he emerged from around a carving in the shore, now completely naked, to inform me that I was at the nudist beach. He was nice enough to leave me laughing to myself as I packed up my lunch and headed back to the rocky path. I remember thinking, “That’s what I get for not doing my research!”

I retraced my steps and found my way to a shaded overlook above what I could see was the western beach. I sat on the rocks, finished my lunch, and took in the magnificent scenery. When I finally had the courage to continue my search for the right path, I made my way to the last fork in the road that I remembered was labeled with the path to the west. I found a steep rocky way up that rejoined with the road. When I arrived at the road, I turned around to see that the path I had come from was explicitly labeled for the beach I was looking for. Confused, I asked for directions from some fellow hikers beginning their descent. They said that I had come from the correct path, but to hug the right as I made my way down. 

This time I noticed a red marking on the rocks that indicated a steeper descent. Just when I thought I was going too far right and surely going off the path, I happened upon a set of cement stairs that led the way down securely. Finally, this was promising! My hopes were not disappointed and in no time I was at the calm waters, with many a happy pilgrim that had beat me there. I scoped out a spot to leave my things and got in the water as fast as I could. 

When to Go

Being the middle of September, the water was particularly cold, but the sun remained strong enough to encourage me to dive in. I enjoyed a swim around the rocks in the cleanest water I have ever been in. When I made it back to the shore, I warmed up in the sun with a book. At this point I was surrounded by people of all tongues and cultures, fellow explorers and locals alike. It’s hard to keep beauty a secret. I was thankful that it was during the week and off-season. I learned later on that if I had come in summer or even the weekend before, I would have needed to make a reservation. 

After enjoying a few hours by the water, I packed up my things, said goodbye to my moment in paradise, and made my final ascent. After the 30-minute hike uphill, I opted to detour to the lookout that I skipped at the beginning. It was a stunning view and well worth the 40 minutes it took me to get out and back. It was about 4pm by the time I returned to the gravel lot, ready to make the final 30-minute stroll through the forest to return to the bus stop. I arrived with just a 10-minute wait to catch a ride back into town. 

Words of Wisdom

For those willing and able, the Calanque de Sugiton is a generous reward for a day’s hike. The challenge of arriving there revived my spirit of adventure, and I reckon it has done likewise for many. There is no cell signal once the descent begins, so I’d recommend turning your phone to airplane mode and planning a truly unplugged afternoon. If public transit is your chosen method, I’d also advise reviewing bus times in advance to ensure a smooth return.

Have you been to the calanques in Southern France? Has your experience come with other insights? Better yet, do you have another hike in France you recommend? I’d love to hear in the comments below. 

Photo by yours truly, taken before my descent to the water.

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