The Most Beautiful Place in France

I know the title may be a contestable claim, and so I will add a tiny disclaimer. The Calanque de Sugiton is the most beautiful nature reserve in France that I have seen with my own eyes.

What is a calanque anyway? It is a geologic formation of a steep valley, submerged in part by the ocean. The Calanque de Sugiton is about a 45-minute drive southeast of the Marseille Saint-Charles train station, positioned on the Mediterranean Sea.

Of the many calanques found in this region, my local friends advised that I see this one in particular for a few reasons. The first being its beauty. Secondly, as I did not have a car during my stay, it is reachable by public transit (and a bit of willpower). Apart from their advice and a pin on Google Maps, I did no research on where to go once I arrived at my final bus stop. This was admittedly very outside my type-A tendencies. In this guide, I will recount the roundabout way I eventually got where I was trying to go and hopefully provide a clearer path for those looking to explore this magnificent nature preserve.

Getting to the Water

When I got off the B1 bus at the stop “Luminy – Parc National des Calanques,” thankfully, I was not alone. On a Thursday morning at 11 am there were about 15 people headed into the park. We were all equipped with our hiking gear, a backpack of snacks, and water for the journey. Although Google insisted that I stay on the road to arrive at the head of the path, I followed the crowd uphill on the sidewalk to a foot path that was marked with a map of the calanques. At this point, I knew I was in the right place. The wide path continued straight ahead, and so did I.

About a 30-minute walk through the shaded forest led me to a gravel lot with three options of where to go. To my right led a lookout over the calanque. I was anxious to get down to the water and eat my picnic, so I saved the lookout for later and headed left. I chose a path that was marked for pedestrians only. I figured this must be the way to go. The descent led me around an opening in the cliffs. The view was spectacular in the truest sense. Eventually, I reached another fork in the road. To the right was a steep rocky path that offered a shorter descent to the western beach. However, to the left was a slightly longer path to what was marked as the eastern beach. I figured a longer distance would mean fewer people, and so I continued east on the less steep road.

My instinct was right; there were fewer people, but the smooth descent soon turned into a tricky maneuver along the cliff and over an unwelcoming patch of rocks. My climbing skills were tested and a friendly older woman, who clearly knew her way around, showed me how to get down onto the farther beach. She continued on her way, and I had the rocks and the ocean to myself — for a moment.

Since it was a little after noon, I started to eat my salad on the shore. I was a few bites in when I noticed a man coming around the rocks I had just come from. A moment later he emerged from around a carving in the shore, now completely naked, to inform me that I was at the nudist beach. He was nice enough to leave me laughing to myself as I packed up my lunch and headed back to the rocky path. I remember thinking, “That’s what I get for not doing my research!”

I retraced my steps and found my way to a shaded overlook above what I could see was the western beach. I sat on the rocks, finished my lunch, and took in the magnificent scenery. When I finally had the courage to continue my search for the right path, I made my way to the last fork in the road that I remembered was labeled with the path to the west. I found a steep rocky way up that rejoined with the road. When I arrived at the road, I turned around to see that the path I had come from was explicitly labeled for the beach I was looking for. Confused, I asked for directions from some fellow hikers beginning their descent. They said that I had come from the correct path, but to hug the right as I made my way down.

This time I noticed a red marking on the rocks that indicated a steeper descent. Just when I thought I was going too far right and surely going off the path, I happened upon a set of cement stairs that led the way down securely. Finally, this was promising! My hopes were not disappointed and in no time I was at the calm waters, with many a happy pilgrim that had beat me there. I scoped out a spot to leave my things and got in the water as fast as I could.

When to Go

Being the middle of September, the water was particularly cold, but the sun remained strong enough to encourage me to dive in. I enjoyed a swim around the rocks in the cleanest water I have ever been in. When I made it back to the shore, I warmed up in the sun with a book. At this point I was surrounded by people of all tongues and cultures, fellow explorers and locals alike. It’s hard to keep beauty a secret. I was thankful that it was during the week and off-season. I learned later on that if I had come in summer or even the weekend before, I would have needed to make a reservation.

After enjoying a few hours by the water, I packed up my things, said goodbye to my moment in paradise, and made my final ascent. After the 30-minute hike uphill, I opted to detour to the lookout that I skipped at the beginning. It was a stunning view and well worth the 40 minutes it took me to get out and back. It was about 4pm by the time I returned to the gravel lot, ready to make the final 30-minute stroll through the forest to return to the bus stop. I arrived with just a 10-minute wait to catch a ride back into town.

Words of Wisdom

For those willing and able, the Calanque de Sugiton is a generous reward for a day’s hike. The challenge of arriving there revived my spirit of adventure, and I reckon it has done likewise for many. There is no cell signal once the descent begins, so I’d recommend turning your phone to airplane mode and planning a truly unplugged afternoon. If public transit is your chosen method, I’d also advise reviewing bus times in advance to ensure a smooth return.

Have you been to the calanques in Southern France? Has your experience come with other insights? Better yet, do you have another hike in France you recommend? I’d love to hear in the comments below.

Photo by yours truly, taken before my descent to the water.

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The Secret of the South: Le Puy-en-Velay

Posted by Jackie Minton

“Le Puy-en-what?” This is often the response I receive when asked where I am living in France. Even many of my French friends from other regions of the country are unfamiliar with it.

As I write during my return flight to the US for the summer, I can tell you that just this morning a French travel inspector in Paris asked me what I had been doing in France and where I was going. I explained that I had been teaching English in a town called Le Puy-en-Velay. She seemed convinced I made it up, until I explained where it is on a map.

Two hours south of Clermont-Ferrand and two hours west of Lyon, you could say it is in the middle of nowhere. I fell in love with Le Puy-en-Velay on my arrival, but what I didn’t realize then is that I was far from the first to be taken by the charm of this little village in the valley. While visiting the Orsay Museum in Paris last year, I stumbled across not one but two different works of art depicting scenes from my new town. After stumbling across the second, I remember thinking, “Okay, maybe I’m not crazy for loving this place.”

Decidedly picturesque, Le Puy (as it is called for short) is riddled with impressive monuments and little alleys. Tucked in the heart of the French countryside, this medieval starting place for the Camino de Santiago has attracted artists and pilgrims seeking respite for centuries. This peaceful region, once dominated by volcanic activity, is now a haven of striking rock formations and ancient history.

If it’s So Great, Why is it Still a Secret?

Le Puy is not well connected by public transit. It’s relatively far from bigger cities, and even trains to Clermont and Lyon are not direct. Most locals have cars and visitors would be most comfortable renting one for an extended stay. The perk of this inconvenience is that the town has remained quiet and protected from the casual passerby.

But as you may note by the grandeur of its Cathedral or its medieval architecture, there was a time this quiet town wasn’t so quiet.

What to See

Notre Dame de France

When coming into Le Puy, the statue of Our Lady of France may just catch your eye. She’s situated on the center peak of town, and at night she casts a glow over the whole city. Made with the metal of 213 cannons taken from the Russians during the Crimean War, the statue was gifted to the city of Le Puy en Velay by Napoleon III in 1860. It was the tallest statue in the world until it was surpassed by the Statue of Liberty. I’ll remind you that it was a gift to the US from France.

Cathedral du Puy

A famous site for pilgrimage since the 400s, its varied architecture reveals a history of construction over the centuries. Even Charlemagne made multiple visits to the Cathedral in the 8th century, and Isabelle Romée (the mother of Joan of Arc) made an appearance in 1429. Every morning from April to October, the Cathedral offers a send-off blessing for those embarking on the Camino de Santiago. I don’t want to give too much away, but I will say the “trap door” opening at the end is impressive.

St. Michel’s Rock & Chapel

Come for the views, stay for the culture. The construction of this chapel in the sky was approved by Bishop Godesclac, the first person to walk to Santiago from outside of Spain in 961. A stone staircase of 268 steps brings you from the access road to its Romanesque entrance. A small museum kept by Le Puy’s office of tourism recounts the geographic anomaly of the mountain before you make your way up.

St. Joseph of Good Hope Sanctuary

Built on the site of a chateau fortress in 1910, this Basilica provides a magnificent panoramic view of the valley (as pictured). Inside the church, a colorful tapestry behind the altar depicts the life of this remarkable saint. Pilgrims can visit a cave chapel beneath the statue, or even step inside the statue itself as of its reopening in 2025.

Enjoy Nature

Surrounded by rich landscapes, Le Puy-en-Velay offers no shortage of excursions for nature lovers. Picture perfect lakes, off-the-path waterfalls, colorful mountains and a suspended forest bridge are all within an hour’s drive away. I’ll leave a list of recommendations here.

When to Come

I may have lived here through the winter, but I can vouch that Le Puy shines in the summer. Literally, the whole town is illuminated at night from July to September. With a higher elevation, the region can see snowfall from late fall to early spring. Most of the tourist sites close or have very limited hours from October to March, so I would recommend coming outside of this window. Thanks to the market in the town center, Saturday mornings have become my favorite moment of the week. If you can swing being here during a weekend, you may have more fun.

Now, if you’re looking to celebrate with the locals, every year the town hosts a candlelit procession to the Cathedral on August 15th. This holiday in the French calendar marks the Assumption of Mary into heaven. Though I haven’t had the privilege of witnessing the celebration myself, many have told me this is a sight to see.

Ever dreamed of living in the middle ages, or wondered what that would be like? Le Puy has hosted a renaissance festival called the Roi de l’Oiseau for over 40 years. The third weekend of September, the town transforms into a medieval village. My first week in town happened to land at this time and the spirit of imagination in the air was mesmerizing. Hotels and hostels fill up, so be sure to book early.

Every November Le Puy hosts a weekend of hot air balloon lift-offs. This is not a cheap way to see the city, but I’ve heard it is magnificent. The town becomes magical as colorful spots fill the sky. My jaw dropped on the sidewalk when I stepped out of work and saw this surprise last year.

Should I Visit?

Now I’m not saying Le Puy should be your first place to visit in France, maybe not even your fifth. It’s pretty hard to get here, so you’ll likely have to stop at a few other cities on the way. However, if you’re looking to explore the countryside and can swing a central France getaway, I’m glad that this little gem is now on your radar.

Learn more about Le Puy’s history and upcoming events at its official tourism website.

Photo of Le Puy-en-Velay taken on film from the viewpoint of St. Joseph’s Sanctuary

aerial photograph of buildings in monaco

A Weekend Guide to Nice, Monaco, and Cannes

Posted by Guest Writer

Note from the editor: Toby Patrick is a freelance writer, currently interning with a Design Agency in Manchester, who has a love for traveling and writing. He has a love for traveling and writing and in this article talks about how to explore the glamorous side of France.

A large part of France’s beauty lies in the country’s ability to offer something for everyone. It’s no surprise that the nation’s capital is home to many of France’s most famous attractions, while Lyon offers a delightfully French experience, and Marseille is a great spot for a beach holiday. But if it’s glitz and glamor you want, there’s a clear winner.

The French Riviera, or Côte d’Azur as it’s known in its native tongue, isn’t just one of the most glamorous parts of France, it’s one of the most glamorous places in the entire world. Synonymous with high-profile events and five-star hotels, this part of the South of France is a popular choice with everyone from backpackers to honeymooners.

Whatever you’re reason for visiting, here’s how I’d spend a luxurious long weekend in the South of France.

Where to Start?

The beauty of the French Riviera is the close proximity of its towns and cities, allowing city hoppers and travel junkies to take in several parts of the region in a short space of time.

Nice is the main city and as such should form a big part of your visit to France’s most glamorous region. I’d recommend being based in Nice. Firstly, due to it being the largest city on the French Riviera and secondly, because you’ll find it nestled between Monaco and Cannes.

If you’re relying on public transport, you can travel to both Cannes and Monaco from Nice in under an hour.

Nice

As the largest city on the French Riviera, you won’t be short of options when it comes to things to do in Nice. As one of the most scenic parts of France, it’s also great for backpackers and travelers on a tight budget; simply taking a stroll around Port Lympia, going for a run along the promenade, or working from one of Nice’s many wonderful cafes are affordable but enjoyable ways to spend your time there.

If you’re looking for something lively, you’ll find Nice offers a far more diverse nightlife than Monaco or Cannes. Whether it’s live music bars, rooftop cocktails, or buzzing nightclubs, Nice has something for everyone when it comes to nightlife including a famous beer festival every October.

The general consensus is that a day or two isn’t long enough in Nice, but if your visit is fleeting, you may want to focus your time on the famous Old Town. Here you can immerse yourself in the city’s historic culture by visiting the many churches and Cathedrals, take in a performance at the Nice Opera House, and sample the famous Cours Saleya market.

If you’ve recently tied the knot and are heading to Nice during your honeymoon, there are plenty of romantic activities you can partake in. I’d recommend checking out some of the vineyard tours on offer in Nice or, if you’re visiting in summer, consider a date night on one of Nice’s luxurious private beaches.

Monaco

If you can time your visit with the F1 Grand Prix, you’ll probably find yourself rubbing shoulders with some of the world’s most famous faces as they enjoy the glitz and glamour of the world’s most famous race.

If not, you can still enjoy Monaco’s iconic F1 circuit. In fact, there’s something quite special about walking around such a famous track while the people of Monaco use the same roads to go about their daily lives. The track is around 4.5km (2.8 miles) so can easily be toured in an hour or so. Consider taking a walking tour which will stop at all the famous landmarks including Casino Square, La Rascasse, and the yacht-filled harbour.

If F1’s not your thing, other glamorous sightseeing stops include the Casino de Monte-Carlo and the Prince’s Palace. If you’re interested in learning more about the Monaco principality you may want to check out the National Museum of Monaco. Alternatively, the Museum of Stamps and Coins is another one of Monaco’s most well-known museums.

Finally, we couldn’t talk about Monaco without talking about wealth and luxury. Monaco has the largest density of millionaires, so where better to do some luxury shopping than in the home of luxury? At the La Promenade Monte-Carlo, you’ll find world-famous brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and Rolex.

Cannes

It might be best known for its film festival but there’s far more to see in Cannes. The Cannes and Cinema guided tour is a great option if you’re on limited time. This will take you to the most famous spots in the city, including its most famous hotels and casinos. This is a great way to see Cannes best bits in a couple of hours.

If Monaco is all about glamour then Cannes takes that and combines it with the vibrance of a seaside town. I’d definitely check out some of the fabulous beaches that Cannes has to offer for a very different experience to Monaco which in contrast only has one public beach.

I’d also visit Le Suquet, or the Old Town, which is the perfect setting for a stroll or coffee date. There are plenty of cafes and bistros among the narrow, picturesque streets of what was formerly a fishing village. Like most places in this part of the world, you’ll find an array of wonderful places to eat offering stunning views.

If you want to take in a few cities on your next visit to France, look no further than the French Riviera. While this part of France is well known for its glamour, don’t underestimate its history, culture, and abundance of things to do.

Photo by Roxana Crusemire on Unsplash

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yellow and orange buildings in perpignan

48 Hours in Perpignan

Posted by Guest Writer

Note from the editor: Toby Patrick is a freelance writer, currently interning with a Design Agency in Manchester, who has a love for traveling and writing. In this article, he writes about one of his favorite places and future retirement home, Perpignan. — MS

When it comes to the South of France, the likes of Bordeaux, Monaco, and Marseille are usually the first recommendations on people’s lips. But nestled on the border of France and Spain in the historic territory of Catalonia is the hidden gem that is Perpignan.

Fabulously French with more than a hint of Spain, Perpignan really doesn’t get spoken about enough. With something for all ages and interests, and just over an hour-long train journey from the more talked about sights of Barcelona, it is also a great destination to fit into a tour of Europe. If you ever find yourself spending a couple of days in Perpignan however, here’s how I’d spend them.

The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist

Whether it’s for religious reasons, or just to admire the architectural beauty of this 14th-century masterpiece, paying a visit to the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist should be top of your list of things to see.

I’d recommend a tour of the cathedral to get a deeper understanding of its rich history. Admission is free too, so it’s a great activity to fit in if you’re working on a tight budget.

Palace of the Kings of Majorca

One thing I love about Perpignan is that its intriguing ancient history is still standing and well and truly still visible today. The Cathedral is a great starting point, but the Palace of the Kings of Majorca will leave you feeling like you’ve been transported back in time.

The palace was originally built for King Jacques II in the 13th century, and not a lot has changed! This means you can visit the same dining rooms, banquet halls, and the apartments where royalty once lived.

Hôtel Pams

One of my favourite spots in Perpignan is Hôtel Pams. This 19th-century mansion is now owned by the city, but the building itself can be traced back to 1852 when it was purchased by the son of a successful businessman.

As for the luxurious mansion that you see today, you can thank French politician Jules Pams who remodelled the building in the late 1800s along with French architect Léopold Carlier.

The interior will leave you in awe, and the grounds are the perfect place to take a short break before you carry on exploring the rest of what Perpignan has to offer.

Eat and Drink by Le Castillet

Perpignan offers an abundance of plazas and squares, the main square being Place de la Loge, which gets pretty lively in the evening and is where younger visitors tend to end their nights.

For a more relaxed atmosphere, and my personal favourite, head to the square located in front of Le Castillet. This isn’t as busy as some of the other squares yet still has plenty of shops, cafés, and bars. Le Castillet itself also offers a stunning backdrop to a lunchtime coffee or evening meal.

I find Perpignan’s food and drink scene to offer a great balance. The squares offer plenty of atmosphere without the hustle and bustle of the nation’s capital, yet also have that relaxed feel that’s synonymous with Southern France.

French Sport

When it comes to French sport, Les Bleus (that’s France’s soccer team) are experiencing somewhat of a golden era at the minute. But in the city of Perpignan, it’s a different shaped ball that residents are more interested in.

I’d definitely recommend taking in a rugby game during your stay if you’ve got time, it’s a far more authentic French experience than heading to Paris to watch PSG which many tourists choose to do.

Your two best options are Perpignan Rugby Union team which plays in the Top 14 league, or the Catalans Dragons who play in the Super League, a rugby league competition made up predominantly of British teams.

So, whether you’re interested in architecture, history, food, and sports — if you’re in France I imagine you do — Perpignan is a wonderful place to spend a weekend.

Photo by Mathilde C on Unsplash