When most people think of the 18th arrondissement in Paris, one image comes to mind: cobblestoned Montmarte, with the white-domed Sacré-Cœur Basilica watching over the city, the Place du Tertre and its artists and easels, and cafés that look like they’re straight out of an Impressionist painting. 

I can’t blame them because I was one of them. Until I moved to the 18th and realized it was so much more. Don’t get me wrong, I love Montmartre (and wrote an entire article about it), but I would be remiss if I didn’t share all of the other things to see and do in the area.

Whether you know the dix-huitième like the back of your hand or you’ve only ever wandered next to the Sacré-Cœur, this arrondissement deserves a closer look.

Beyond Montmartre

Okay, Molli, we get it… the 18th is more than Montmartre! …is probably what all of you are thinking at this point, but let me explain.

While it’s true — Montmartre is one of the most famous spots in Paris, and for good reason. But if you limit yourself to the hilltop that looms over the rest of the city, you’ll miss a lot of the complexity and authentic, this-is-where-Parisians-actually-live energy to be found in the 18th.

This arrondissement has long been known for its artistic history and working-class roots. I mean, La Commune de Paris, a revolutionary government that seized power in Paris in 1871 did begin in Montmartre. Not to mention, Pablo Picasso, Claude Monet, Piet Mondrian, and Vincent Van Gogh all lived and worked there.

It should come as no surprise that today the area remains an eclectic mix of young families, immigrants, students, and creatives. Neighborhoods like Jules Joffrin (my stomping grounds!), Lamarck-Caulaincourt, Marx Dormoy, and Château Rouge all have their own unique vibe.

Once you get past the souvenir stands that crowd the area around the Sacré-Cœur, you’ll find winding streets and staircases where real Parisians spend their time in bakeries, cafés, local shops, and markets. It offers a good glimpse into real Parisian life.

Monuments in the 18th

I can’t talk about the 18th arrondissement without mentioning some of its most recognizable landmarks:

• Sacré-Cœur Basilica: With its bright white façade and Byzantine architecture, the basilica is quite different from the other gothic cathedrals in the city. I definitely recommend stepping inside, even if there’s a line ot enter. Where the Notre-Dame is dark and moody, the Sacré-Cœur is bright and airy. You can also visit the dome, or simply enjoy a cup of coffee on the steps to admire the view.
• Le Mur des Je t’aime (The I Love You Wall): Just outside the Abbessess metro station you’ll find the deep blue tiled wall with the words I love you written in hundreds of languages. It’s a touristy spot for sure — but also a great meeting place before going to one of the bars down the street. Le Chinon is my favorite local place, if you’re wondering.
• Saint-Pierre de Montmartre Church: So few people know about this one! But, the Saint-Pierre is one of the oldest surviving churches in Paris. It’s a great place to spot in for some quiet respite, meditation, or prayer when the streets get too hectic.
• Montmartre Cemetery: Much less intimidating than the Père Lachaise Cemetery, here you’ll find famous graves like Dalida and François Truffaut. You’ll also discover a community of cats, taken care of by a local charity group (really).

My Favorite Museums & Bookstore

While there aren’t a ton of museums in the 18th, there are still a few worth checking out, including one of my top recommendations for a fun day date:

• Musée de Montmartre: I love taking visitors to this one as it’s so unexpected. Once you walk in off the bustling streets, you’re brought to a quiet and peaceful garden and a beautiful historic home (once occupied by the artist Renoir) that houses the museum. 

• Dalí Paris: My now-husband and I went here for one of our earliest dates so it always brings back memories. If you love surrealism, you’ll want to pop inside this small but so fascinating museum. It’s just off the Place du Tertre and is full of sculptures, engravings, sketches, and even some films.

• Halles Saint Pierre: Tucked away at the foot of the Sacré-Cœur, Halles Saint Pierre is a bookstore specializing in art books, exhibition catalogues, art publications, and books on design and architecture. There’s also a café — and thanks to the massive windows there’s also plenty of natural light to read by.

More Things to Do in the 18th Arrondissement

Just like nearly every arrondissement in Paris, there are monuments and museums to explore… but what I love most about the 18th is that it’s one of the rare areas in Paris that has maintained its “village within a city” feel. It’s also very multicultural and a good representation of what the actual population of France looks like.

The Goutte d’Or is a must-visit if you’re into cooking. The rue Dejean market is open daily and offers fresh produce, spices, and African specialties you won’t easily find elsewhere in the city.

The rue des Abbesses just may be the epicenter of the Montmartre “village” and is lined with cafés, bakeries, boutiques, and wine bars. It’s a perfect place to settle in for an afternoon people-watching or to pick up pastries from Maison Aleph or bread from Le Grenier à Pain (trust).

The Square Maurice Kriegel-Valrimont right in my Jules Joffrin neighborhood is the exact opposite of the touristy spots on the butte de Montmartre. A short walk from the rue du Poteau market street and surrounded by Haussmannian buildings, it’s my favorite place to take a midday break and admire everyday life unfold before my eyes. 

When I start dreaming of living in other places in Paris (Saint-Germain-des-Prés will always hold a special place in my heart), I let myself get caught up in the dream. Until I remember how incredible the 18th arrondissement is. I think I’ve found my favorite place for life.

Photo by Daniel Bi on Unsplash

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