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Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 18th Arrondissement

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When most people think of the 18th arrondissement in Paris, one image comes to mind: cobblestoned Montmarte, with the white-domed Sacré-Cœur Basilica watching over the city, the Place du Tertre and its artists and easels, and cafés that look like they’re straight out of an Impressionist painting. 

I can’t blame them because I was one of them. Until I moved to the 18th and realized it was so much more. Don’t get me wrong, I love Montmartre (and wrote an entire article about it), but I would be remiss if I didn’t share all of the other things to see and do in the area.

Whether you know the dix-huitième like the back of your hand or you’ve only ever wandered next to the Sacré-Cœur, this arrondissement deserves a closer look.

Beyond Montmartre

Okay, Molli, we get it… the 18th is more than Montmartre! …is probably what all of you are thinking at this point, but let me explain.

While it’s true — Montmartre is one of the most famous spots in Paris, and for good reason. But if you limit yourself to the hilltop that looms over the rest of the city, you’ll miss a lot of the complexity and authentic, this-is-where-Parisians-actually-live energy to be found in the 18th.

This arrondissement has long been known for its artistic history and working-class roots. I mean, La Commune de Paris, a revolutionary government that seized power in Paris in 1871 did begin in Montmartre. Not to mention, Pablo Picasso, Claude Monet, Piet Mondrian, and Vincent Van Gogh all lived and worked there.

It should come as no surprise that today the area remains an eclectic mix of young families, immigrants, students, and creatives. Neighborhoods like Jules Joffrin (my stomping grounds!), Lamarck-Caulaincourt, Marx Dormoy, and Château Rouge all have their own unique vibe.

Once you get past the souvenir stands that crowd the area around the Sacré-Cœur, you’ll find winding streets and staircases where real Parisians spend their time in bakeries, cafés, local shops, and markets. It offers a good glimpse into real Parisian life.

Monuments in the 18th

I can’t talk about the 18th arrondissement without mentioning some of its most recognizable landmarks:

  • Sacré-Cœur Basilica: With its bright white façade and Byzantine architecture, the basilica is quite different from the other gothic cathedrals in the city. I definitely recommend stepping inside, even if there’s a line ot enter. Where the Notre-Dame is dark and moody, the Sacré-Cœur is bright and airy. You can also visit the dome, or simply enjoy a cup of coffee on the steps to admire the view.
  • Le Mur des Je t’aime (The I Love You Wall): Just outside the Abbessess metro station you’ll find the deep blue tiled wall with the words I love you written in hundreds of languages. It’s a touristy spot for sure — but also a great meeting place before going to one of the bars down the street. Le Chinon is my favorite local place, if you’re wondering.
  • Saint-Pierre de Montmartre Church: So few people know about this one! But, the Saint-Pierre is one of the oldest surviving churches in Paris. It’s a great place to spot in for some quiet respite, meditation, or prayer when the streets get too hectic.
  • Montmartre Cemetery: Much less intimidating than the Père Lachaise Cemetery, here you’ll find famous graves like Dalida and François Truffaut. You’ll also discover a community of cats, taken care of by a local charity group (really).

My Favorite Museums & Bookstore

While there aren’t a ton of museums in the 18th, there are still a few worth checking out, including one of my top recommendations for a fun day date:

  • Musée de Montmartre: I love taking visitors to this one as it’s so unexpected. Once you walk in off the bustling streets, you’re brought to a quiet and peaceful garden and a beautiful historic home (once occupied by the artist Renoir) that houses the museum. 
  • Dalí Paris: My now-husband and I went here for one of our earliest dates so it always brings back memories. If you love surrealism, you’ll want to pop inside this small but so fascinating museum. It’s just off the Place du Tertre and is full of sculptures, engravings, sketches, and even some films.
  • Halles Saint Pierre: Tucked away at the foot of the Sacré-Cœur, Halles Saint Pierre is a bookstore specializing in art books, exhibition catalogues, art publications, and books on design and architecture. There’s also a café — and thanks to the massive windows there’s also plenty of natural light to read by.

More Things to Do in the 18th Arrondissement

Just like nearly every arrondissement in Paris, there are monuments and museums to explore… but what I love most about the 18th is that it’s one of the rare areas in Paris that has maintained its “village within a city” feel. It’s also very multicultural and a good representation of what the actual population of France looks like.

The Goutte d’Or is a must-visit if you’re into cooking. The rue Dejean market is open daily and offers fresh produce, spices, and African specialties you won’t easily find elsewhere in the city.

The rue des Abbesses just may be the epicenter of the Montmartre “village” and is lined with cafés, bakeries, boutiques, and wine bars. It’s a perfect place to settle in for an afternoon people-watching or to pick up pastries from Maison Aleph or bread from Le Grenier à Pain (trust).

The Square Maurice Kriegel-Valrimont right in my Jules Joffrin neighborhood is the exact opposite of the touristy spots on the butte de Montmartre. A short walk from the rue du Poteau market street and surrounded by Haussmannian buildings, it’s my favorite place to take a midday break and admire everyday life unfold before my eyes. 

When I start dreaming of living in other places in Paris (Saint-Germain-des-Prés will always hold a special place in my heart), I let myself get caught up in the dream. Until I remember how incredible the 18th arrondissement is. I think I’ve found my favorite place for life.

Photo by Daniel Bi on Unsplash

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Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 16th Arrondissement

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If you’re new here, the French capital comprises 20 “arrondissements,” a fancy French word for neighborhoods. They begin with the 1st arrondissement in the city’s center, and the others spiral out, resulting in what looks like a snail’s shell. It’s a nice image when you consider that escargots seem synonymous with French cuisine (eating snails isn’t as popular as you may think, but that’s another story for another article). 

Nestled in the western corner of Paris is the 16th, or seizième, arrondissement. It’s fairly residential when compared to other areas, especially the lively 10th and 11th arrondissements, and of course, neighborhoods 1-7, which boast monuments such as the Louvre, Notre-Dame de Paris, Panthéon, and Quartier Latin.

I lived in the 16th arrondissement for two years when I was a student. While it is certainly quiet, it’s one of the things I liked most about living there. And, “quiet” doesn’t mean totally removed from the hustle and bustle of Paris. The Place du Trocadero, which overlooks the Eiffel Tower, is in the 16th and was only a five minute walk from my apartment at the time.

There are a few other places in the 16th that are worth checking out, especially for those of you who either live here full-time or are a tourist looking to do things that are off the proverbial beaten path. 

Le Bois

Two large parks bookend Paris — the Bois de Boulogne to the west and the Bois de Vincennes to the east. Another reason why I loved living in the 16th so much was that I had such easy access to such a massive green space in an otherwise relatively urban landscape. Bois means “wood” in English, an apt word to describe it. The Bois de Boulogne covers an area of about 2,090 acres. 

There are walking paths, fields, lakes, smaller parks within the woods, places to exercise, restaurants, a nightclub (yes, you read that right), the Longchamp Hippodrome (a famous horse racing track), and bike paths. It’s a wonderful place to spend a sunny weekend, and you’ll often see Parisians out exercising or spending time with family.

You’ll also find one of my favorite museums, the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Designed by architect Frank Gehry, who is also responsible for the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao in Spain, it opened in 2014, the first year I came to Paris as an au pair. It’s a contemporary art museum, and some memorable exhibits I saw there include The Shchukin Collection, which highlighted artists like Picasso, Matisse, and Gaugin, as well as a collaboration with the MoMA in New York City. 

The modern building stands out amongst the oak and poplar trees — some Parisians don’t like it — so you won’t be able to miss it. 

More Museums

The Fondation Louis Vuitton isn’t the only museum in the 16th arrondissement. In fact, there are more than a dozen. I won’t bore you with information about them all (although I know most of you wouldn’t be bored!), but there are a few that I recommend you visit the next time you’re in the area.

  • Musée du Vin: Housed in a historic cellar, the Musée du Vin, or Wine Museum, boasts a rich collection of artifacts, tools, and more that trace the history of winemaking and its cultural significance in France. You can explore the cellars, gain insights into vine cultivation, enjoy tastings, and essentially immerse yourselves in the art and heritage of France’s preferred drink.
  • Musée Marmottan: Originally a private mansion, the Musée Marmottan houses the world’s largest ensemble of Claude Monet’s works, alongside pieces by other renowned artists. It’s located in a former hôtel particulier (a fancy name for a city mansion), meaning the building itself is just as impressive as the art inside it. Don’t forget to go downstairs — that’s where you’ll find the majority of Monet’s works. Stephen is a big fan of Berthe Morisot and he was first introduced to her at this museum.
  • Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris: Filled with contemporary and modern art, the Modern Art Museum of Paris has one of my favorite permanent collections in Paris. Works by artists like Picasso, Fernand Léger, Frida Khalo, Modigliani, and Sonia Delaunay grace the halls — I’ve spent many an afternoon admiring them.
  • Palais de Tokyo: Located just à côté of the Modern Art Museum is the Palais de Tokyo. Now, I must admit this museum isn’t my favorite as I don’t love contemporary art, but if you do it’s a must-visit. The large space is dedicated to avant-garde creativity at its utmost, and hosts ever-changing exhibitions, performances, and installations.

Take a Stroll

Like all Parisian neighborhoods, the seizième is a wonderful place to wander. There are plenty of places to grab a coffee or a bite — Le Franklin near the Passy métro station is great for people-watching, and Langousta is great for seafood — otherwise, take the time to admire the classic Parisian architecture as well as the local resident’s taste in clothing. 

If you’ve seen the movie Inception, you’ll likely recognize the Pont du Bir Hakeim. Cross it and you’ll find yourself in front of the Eiffel Tower. About halfway across the bridge, take a moment to walk down the stairs to explore the Île des Cygnes — technically in the 15th arrondissement — and admire a unique view of the Tower from there.

While I no longer live in the 16th it holds a special place in my heart. I can’t help but feel like I’m home whenever I get off the line 6 at Passy.

Photo by Karl Köhler on Unsplash

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