medical school in France

How to Become a Doctor in France 

Becoming a doctor in France is not easy, and it’s a brave choice. Medical studies in France are known to be the most difficult and challenging studies of the country. The selection process for medical school is also rumored to be the toughest and most selective.

Before 2020 there was a first step with a national exam that allowed you to access med school. In reality, many students that failed this first step ended up going to Spain or Eastern European countries for their studies.  For this reason, a national reform took place and completely amended medical studies.

In France, there are about thirty universities that allow you to study medicine. 

Whether you are an American/Canadian citizen that completed high school in your home country or were already in France for high school, this article is for you. If you want precise details on the general application process to French universities, check out our article on this topic as it applies to med school too!

First and foremost, let’s have a look at the three ways you can access medicine studies in France.

French Equivalent of a Bachelor’s Degree with a Health Major: the PASS

This diploma, called “licence” in French is composed of three years of study where you major in a health field and minor in another field.

The classes are the basic fundamentals of medicine: chemistry, physics, statistics, human and social sciences.

Indeed, you must choose a minor in another discipline or field of study. This aims to facilitate your professional reorientation in case you realize med school is not for you and wish to change your career path.

The most important thing to know about the PASS is that you are not allowed to fail a year and repeat it again. So it’s a win-or-lose situation, meaning that you either succeed the first year of PASS and continue to the second year or you fail your PASS. In the second case, you will either be obliged to pursue studies in the minor you chose, or completely change your field of study.

Regular Bachelor’s Degree with a Minor in Health

The second option to access medical studies is to do a licence in another field of study such as law, economics, history, chemistry etc. and do a minor in health. This is called LAS in French, and it means licence avec option accès santé which is equivalent to a bachelor’s degree with an option to access health studies.

Once you feel ready, either in the first, second, or third year of your bachelor’s degree, you can pass the admissibility exams for the second year of medical school, pharmacy, or dental school. You are allowed to try the medicine school entrance exams twice. 

The Medical Assistant Bridge

The third and final way to access medical studies is to prepare the three-year diploma to become a medical assistant through a professional nursing school. Once you graduate, you can try the admissibility exams to enter the second year of med school.

However, spots are limited in med school when you wish to access with the “Medical Assistant Bridge” and every year they are determined by universities and regional health agencies so you must be on the lookout for the limited number of free spots.

Once you enter med school, there are three major cycles/steps to consider in your medical career in France:

The First Cycle: the Basics of Medicine Studies

Once you are admitted to med school, there is a first cycle composed of two years (second and third year of med school) that aims to teach students the science fundamentals and basics required to become a doctor.

Some topics studied are semiology, physiology, anatomy, microbiology, notions of pathology, pharmacy, and bacteriology.

The are some optional topics such as science philosophy, medical English, history of medicine, or medical computer science.

Parallel to these studies you need to pursue a full-time nursing internship of four weeks duration at the beginning of the cycle. Afterwards, throughout the cycle, you must pursue twelve weeks of internships in local hospitals in general services or more specialized such as the emergency room, dermatology, cardiology and so on.

At the end of the third year, students graduate and obtain a diploma called DFGSM, diplôme de formation Générale en sciences médicales, which is the same level as a standard bachelor’s degree.

The Second Cycle: Clinical Practice and In-Depth Study

The second cycle, called “externat” in French is composed of the 4th, 5th and 6th year of studies in med school. This cycle allows you to have a complete medical training focused on pathologies, their therapeutics and prevention methods. Topics studied in this cycle are geriatrics, locomotor devices, neurology, pediatrics, and oncology.

At this stage, med school students are both students and employees of the hospital and touch salaries depending on their level. 

Bear in mind that some internships are mandatory (plastic surgery, emergency room) and others are optional. Throughout this cycle, students must do a total of 25 night shifts at the hospital, mainly in the emergency room.

To go to the next stage, there is an admission procedure that includes several exams such as structured clinical exams during the internships or simulations.

Students must make a list with their “wishes” for their medical specialty and they will only be affected in the specialty of their choice if their national ranking is high enough. Each specialty has a limited number of spots and depending on the specialty, the rank may need to be higher or lower. For example, for the 2022-2023 session, there were 27 spots in neurosurgery against 3,388 spots in general medicine.

At the end of the 6th year, students graduate and are granted a DFASM diploma which stands for diplôme de formation approfondie en sciences médicales, which is the equivalent of a standard Master’s degree.

Final Step: Choosing your Specialty

In total, there are 44 medicine specialties: 13 surgical (gynecology, vascular surgery…), 30 medical (psychiatry, pneumonology, radiology, medical imagery…), and medical biology.

If you want to specialize in general medicine, the third cycle is three years long whilst it can be between 4-6 years for other specialties.

The third cycle is also divided in three stages:

-one year of fundamentals studied in the first two cycles,

-one or two years of in-depth studies to become autonomous as a future doctor,

-one or two years of consolidation where you will be placed under a junior doctor status, and under the supervision of a senior doctor.

This stage is called “interne” and during this cycle, students do semestrial internships and they prepare a thesis.

After finishing and validating your internships, classes and thesis, students graduate with a doctor diplome (“DE de docteur en médecine”) and a specialized diploma called DES, of their chosen specialty.

Taking the med school path is definitely an admirable choice due to the length of the academic career. 

All we can say is that in the end, it will all be worth it and if there’s one thing that everyone will always need, it’s a good doctor!

Photo by National Cancer Institute on Unsplash

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Christmas Sale

Podcast Appearance and a 12 Days of Christmas Sale on Moving to France!

I recently appeared on Meet the Expats to talk about my ten years of living in France and my reflections on the journey. You can find it wherever you like to listen to your podcasts or via the direct player below. One of the themes that has been most on my mind recently is the question of citizenship vs. residency and there’s a segment of the episode devoted to that topic.

Earlier last month I also offered the Nomadic Matt community a webinar on moving to France which featured some ideas I outlined in 29 Days to France. The webinar was around 80 minutes long and is now available for purchase as a stand-alone item here. On that page you can watch a free 15-minute preview of the webinar I did.

This webinar is now available as free bonus content for those who are students of my Profession Liberale and Visitor Visa video courses. Next week we are also going to be sending free passes for the webinar to all those who have already bought the paperback edition of the book in gratitude for them supporting us. We also don’t want them to miss out on this offer just because they already bought the book!

In the meantime, to celebrate the end of the year and the festive season, starting on Christmas Day, also known as the First Day of Christmas, we will be offering that webinar ($20 value) for free for anyone who buys a paperback edition of our book. The offer will continue until Twelfth Night, the Epiphany, also known as the Twelfth Day of Christmas.

Use the content I share to springboard you into a New Year’s resolution: 2023 is the year that you plan your move to France!

Photo by Markus Spiske on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

Sorbonne Paris

Going to University in France

In our ongoing mission to provide the widest range of information, we’re trying something new by having a French author pen an article for us. Just because it’s The American in Paris doesn’t mean we can’t ask for help from our French friends. We also don’t want to show a bias that moving to France is only for those who are somewhat established in a career. You can come to France as early as you are able. 🙂 -SH

If you’ve made the decision to come to France for your graduate or postgraduate studies, you should be aware in advance of the thorough and maybe even tricky selection process.

It’s very important to know this process thoroughly if your goal is to go to university in France because a friend of mine missed the application deadline once and she had to wait for the next year — no joke.

Of course, this article applies only to the Public University system and not Private Universities, where you can just submit an application easily through their website and respect the given deadlines. (like AUP for example!)

For those that don’t know, Public Universities in France are “free.” This isn’t exactly the case because the university fees are estimated between 170€ and 380€ depending on your major.

However, since 2020, students located outside the EU must pay a fee of 2,770€ for a bachelor’s degree and 3,770€ for a master’s degree or a PhD.

There are some differences whether you have gone through high school and passed your baccalaureate diploma in France, if you got to France just in time for your first year of university, or if you’ve already studied a bachelor’s degree in the US or another country. For those that don’t know, the baccalaureate diploma is the national diploma that marks the conclusion of your high school years and it’s somewhat analogous to the SAT/ACT in the US.

Before explaining the criteria for the selection process let’s look a bit closer at the application process. The selection process is different whether you are in one of the three following situations.

So let’s break it down to make it easier.

Case 1. You Have Been in France since High School, and You Passed Your Baccalaureate in France

For those that have finished high school in a French establishment, whether private or public, Parcoursup is the website exclusively dedicated for university applications.

If you are wondering, Parcoursup is nothing else than a platform that allows students to regroup their top preferred university choices and apply. However, there are some restrictions. The platform is accessible on www.parcoursup.fr and opens every year around the month of January. It has tutorials for students to understand how to prepare their application files and it closes at the end of the month of March each year. This means you have roughly two months to apply to everything.

Once you sign up on the website with an email account, you have the possibility to enter ten university choices (bachelor’s degree, advanced vocational diploma, or business schools). You have ten additional choices shall you seek to apply to universities that offer the status of an apprentice, where you can specifically study and work at the same time.

For each choice, you must draft a cover letter and a resume motivating your choice to enter the said institution. 

Be careful, from the middle of the month of March (specific dates are provided every year), you cannot add new choices. However, you have until the beginning of April to finalize your applications for the choices you have already added. Between this period, the high school analyses the student’s university choices and issues a document called “fiche avenir,” which aims to give an opinion of the director of the establishment regarding the student’s choices. 

Let’s say a student has poor grades in mathematics but only has architecture schools in his ten choices, the decision of the director of his high school may have an impact on his selection and application.

Starting from the month of June and onwards, students begin to receive responses to their applications, which may be of three types:

  • favorable: they are admitted
  • unfavorable: they are refused
  • wait list: the student will be favorable if someone that is accepted in the establishment gives up their spot

Indeed, some students may be accepted in all of their choices. Once they make their definitive choice and refuse the other nine proposals, a space will free up each time for students on the wait list.

Students have a deadline of maximum five days to respond to the university acceptance offers, and if the deadline is not respected, the student loses their spot to another person.

For students that obtain no favorable response out of all their applications, there is a complementary application period starting from the middle of the month of June.

Parcoursup is a very selective platform because there are thousands of students every year ready to apply for university and depending on the budgets, some universities have a numerus clausus, and hence, limited spots available.

It is very important to have high quality achievements at least in the last two years of high school, and a legacy of excellence in the curriculum, to stand out from others and make sure you have at least one acceptance offer.

Case 2. You Wish to Come to France for Your Graduate Studies

If you have already finished high school in the US or Canada and wish to come from another country, the process is slightly simplified but the selection process is more thorough because universities propose interviews to students once they receive their applications.

First, you need to research what university in France offers your desired major. Then, make a list and regroup them by city or by university if several graduate courses in one university trigger your interest.

Each university has their own application portal which you can find by researching on Google: called “e-candidat”. (in the future, we can share a list that regroups all of these portals to avoid you losing time on researching them)

You need to create an account with your email and verify that you are within the application dates/deadline window.

Once you the application is open for your requested degree, the portal will ask you to submit a series of information such as your high school diploma, personal information, languages spoken, resume, cover letter.

Basically, the portal is a platform that regroups several elements of your academic identity and acts like a resume, in its totality.

You have a limit of three choices per university. 

Once the application is submitted, the university has approximately one month to reply to your application via email and let you know of their decision. If their decision is potentially favorable, you may be invited to a formal interview with the director of the diploma.

Bear in mind that for very specific fields such as environment law for example or very precise fields, there may be a very low number of universities that propose the graduate diploma. 

We recommend you apply to a maximum of establishments to increase your chances of being accepted.

90% of university programs in France are in French and there are few options in English. Hence, you need to take this into consideration if you don’t speak French well enough to pursue higher education programs before applying, because French university programs do not offer French classes for foreign students.

So, you have several options in this case: 

If you’re brave and motivated enough, you can sign up to FLE classes (Français Langue Etrangère), which teach French to foreigners in parallel to your university classes. You can come to France in the summer prior the beginning of university (university generally starts at the end of September or October in France) and prepare in advance for the basics and then pursue the classes throughout the year. There are several private institutes that offer FLE classes, and you can even inquire in the French Embassy of your town to sign up in advance prior to even moving to France. 

Take a year off and dedicate yourself to learning French and pass the DELF exam which is the equivalent of the IELTS and TOEFL. The DELF starts at level A1 and goes up to level C2 (professional proficiency). 

However, in any case, we do recommend that you come to France with at least some basics of the language because it is quite a technical language especially in terms of grammar, and also because certain establishments require a certificate proving that you have a minimal level of French. Moreover, the most challenging undergraduate programs and prestigious establishments have a thorough selection process and language skills may make a difference in this case. 

This is why we recommend you take all this into account when deciding to move to France so that you come fully prepared.

Another possibility would be to take advanced level French classes two years before you graduate so you master the language accordingly and you can attend classes in French.

Case 3. You already Have a Graduate Diploma and You Are Seeking to Move to France for Post-Graduate Studies

France has a particularity: you can have two master’s degrees called M1 and M2. It is not mandatory but for some fields of activity such as law for example, it is recommended to have a more generic M1 and a more specific M2 targeting your future specialty as a lawyer for example.

While M1 diplomas generally have a capacity of a thousand people, M2 are very selective and have a capacity between 10 and 25 people maximum from the whole country

The application process is the same as the one described above, in Case 2, and takes place via the e-candidat portal for each establishment. 

Unlike the US and Canadian systems in which you can study something during your undergraduate studies that is not related to your graduate studies (e.g. getting an art history degree and then moving on to becoming a lawyer, or getting a history degree and then going on to medical school) in France the two types of studies are almost always related (i.e. an entirely medical undergraduate program paired with a graduate one). 

Many students drop the idea of going forward with an M2 since the process is highly selective. It is also subject to a formal interview and for some diplomas practical questions may be asked, to test your competences and practical abilities and confirm whether you are suitable or not. Generally, the e-candidat portal acts as a filter and the chances are that if you get an interview proposition, and you do well, you will be accepted in the M2.

We recommend that you choose an M2 diploma that truly aligns with your future professional goals and is perfectly in the continuity of your graduate studies. Otherwise, you may easily be rejected.

Be careful, if you apply for an M2 diploma, it really needs to be in alignment with your M1 diploma and they need to be complementary.

Fun fact that is not so fun in reality: there are many students that end up doing a second M1 because they got rejected from the M2 of their choice or didn’t have an M2 at all.

Fun fact: you can do as many M1 diplomas as you please in France. I had a Brazilian friend that couldn’t find a job after her first M1 diploma and for her visa purposes and regular right of stay in France, she ended up doing three M1 diplomas.

General tip whether you’re in Case 1, Case 2 or Case 3: Start making your research at least one year in advance so you’re sure of your university choice, have the time to prepare all the documents and MOST IMPORTANTLY, you don’t miss the application deadline!

Make sure you take into account any potential practical questions that may be asked during the interviews and anticipate them as much as you can. Don’t hesitate to join dedicated Facebook groups that students make every year to update each other of the application and selection process for specific diplomas. This is a great way to see if the university has started sending acceptance or rejection letters for the diploma you have applied to.

If you’re interested in the application and selection process for Law School and Medicine school which are a tad different than other disciplines, and you found this article insightful, stay tuned for a future article on the topic.

Photo is of the Sorbonne in 2018 and was taken by the author.

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

remote work in France

Can I (Legally) Work Remotely in France?

Business owners who have conversations with accountants about classifying business expenses or certain depreciation strategies are used to hearing two words when we pose a question hoping for a yes or no answer: “it depends.” I fully understand this answer now, but the younger version of me just wanted a simple answer. I’ve come to realize that international living does not often offer simple answers.

The single most asked question I’ve run into in forums and Facebook groups in the last two years has been, “Can I work remotely in France?” Implied in this question is the adverb “legally” since, of course, anyone can open a laptop anywhere in France and work remotely. While I have my reasons for being in the “Yes” camp, I’ve run into a lot of “No” people online, who despite having no personal stake in the situation (they’re not remote workers) or no official status to speak for the French state (they’re just part-time online Karens), insist that their interpretation is the correct one. I’ve also run into a few people, one in particular who we have mentioned before on this blog, who insists that remote work is not permitted, which is why you need to take her $8000 course to help you get a Profession Liberale visa (which will allow you to work legally).

* * *

At the heart of this question is really an issue of taxation, which is a big deal in France. 

Your tax records are an important part of various applications you’ll have here, particularly for citizenship. 

You are required to file taxes as long as you are a resident of France. Even if you’re not resident in France, you will need to file taxes if you are earning any kind of income here. This most often applies to those who own rental property.

Filing taxes, of course, is different from paying taxes. You only pay taxes if you have taxable income, and there are certain policies and exclusions that can reduce that amount for any given individual.

What’s important for any tax authorities that come knocking is a narrative. You need to consult with an accountant and possibly an attorney on your own particular situation, but when it comes to France and many other countries in the world, the remote work question was never clearly anticipated in current law and doesn’t look to be the most important issue to be resolved as the world recovers from extreme and disproportionate measures taken during Covid-19 and is heading into an energy crisis centered in (and precipitated by the US and) Europe but that will be felt around the globe.

Here’s a scenario.

I’m an American businessman taking my family to Paris for a week-long vacation. While there I take two hours of business calls each day, which are billable hours to my client.

The “No” people would argue that I have now “worked in France” illegally.

Here’s another.

A South African businesswoman has a Chilean-based business but does a consulting call with someone living in Marseille. 

The “No” people might argue that this South African entrepreneur has now “worked in France” illegally.

As I already noted, the laws on the books in France (and in many other countries) never anticipated that “work” could be something digital and that billable conversations could be happening between countries, much less continents.

In both of these cases, the country where the business is domiciled can easily be considered the place where the business took place, and any income derived from those countries will need to be reported by the individual earning that income in those countries. Some may choose to construct or construe it another way, but that’s up to them.

In no way can these be construed as slam-dunk “working in France illegally” scenarios.

But let’s move from those hypothetical situations to a real-life ones I’ve witnessed as I’ve helped hundreds of people get their visas to come to France over the years: the French government, both before and after 2020, has consistently approved Long Term Stay Visitor Visas in which the “proof of income” the applicant presented came in the form of a letter from an employer who stated that his/her employee would be working remotely. Those visa applications have never been denied on the grounds of the applicant stating an explicit plan to work remotely in France.

So, at least as far as the visa-granting portion of the French government is concerned, it’s perfectly legal to work remotely in France.

The same is also true for real estate. If you own real estate in France, you are allowed to earn income from that real estate, even if you don’t live in the country. But you need to declare that income to the French government. This is an example of filing and paying taxes in France even when you don’t live here. That’s what happens when you live a multi-country life in any format: simplicity disappears.

US-based remote workers who are resident in France will end up declaring their US income to the French, albeit in an indirect way. When you file your taxes in France, as I have for almost a decade now, there’s a line item for worldwide income, which in my case, is mostly derived from other US-based companies I own. If I were a remote worker, my income would have originated there and I would have paid taxes in that jurisdiction.

***

According to the “no remote working in France” crowd the French government is wrong, at least the part of the French government that issues visas to those who are openly stating their intent to work remotely in France.

Let’s go back to the nuance I mentioned at the beginning of this article. While the “No” people tend to be unconditional surrender types, who cannot admit the possibility they could be wrong, I am willing to admit I might be wrong, despite being a “Yes” person. Here are two counterarguments I would make:

  • There could be a scenario in which the different departments (immigration and labor/taxation) of the government are in conflict with each other on policy and that a future court case and ruling would clarify this issue. It wouldn’t be the first time that this happened in a government, French or otherwise. But I don’t see this as a priority in a French state that is currently (and is for the foreseeable future) a chaotic mess politically.
  • It may also be the case that some of these people are taking the perspective of French jurisprudence, which requires specific permissions to do things. A lack of permission implies illegality. Anglo-Saxon law tends to the principle of “if it’s not forbidden, you may do it.” As with the conflicting-government-departments angle, I understand and appreciate this perspective. But it doesn’t change my mind.

For the moment, not only can you legally work remotely in France, you can even explicitly tell the French government you plan to do so before you move here. And they’ll give you a visa to do it legally.

Photo by Artem Maltsev on Unsplash

A version of this article originally appeared on Noobpreneur. It also appeared on Medium.

real estate in Paris

Finding Your Dream Home in Paris Part II: Financing and Signing for Your Property

If you’ve decided to stay in Paris long term, you may become interested in owning rather than renting. In Part One of this two-part series, I outlined how to find your ideal property. 

Now, as you follow your dream of owning a piece of Paris, the next step is to start thinking about financing your new home as well as how to legally sign for it.

Step One: Choose Your Bank

Check out different banks as to their lending rates. You will want to look at their TAEG (Taux annuel effectif global) which includes various fees above and beyond the interest rate and spread over the time of the loan. Sometimes banks announce a low lending rate but then the fees bring up the cost and the TAEG. Have them print out a proposal for a repayment schedule (échéance de prêt) and simply compare the monthly mortgage offers. Remember, only a couple of tens of euros per month can bring up the total cost of the loan into the thousands.

Also, see how comfortable you are working with a particular bank. The bank will ask you to open an account with them and transfer all your banking needs to that account, i.e., income and all regular transfers. For my last acquisition, I was looking into three banks, including BanquePostale. BanquePostale had the best rate. But, when they became very picayunish as to more document demands, I decided I did not want to spend fifteen years of my financial life with them. However, I was able to use their offer to more strongly negotiate with another bank and then got a good deal from a bank I have been happy to work with since then.

Get a potential agreement from a bank(s) to know where they stand on your real-estate project. They will not sign for a loan until you come to them with a notarized pre-sales agreement. However once that is done, you will only have a short time to get the loan processed. The final negotiations with these banks, and your choice of bank, will take place typically within a month after this agreement is in hand.

Banks can be difficult in awarding loans. The budget question concerns not only how much money you already possess, but how much the banks will be willing to lend. There is a law to protect people against accumulating too much debt (loi surendettement). They must check whether you might be overextending yourself and make sure that you do not. If they do not carry out this role, they can become responsible for your loan. The rule of thumb is that the banks will only lend an amount whereby the monthly payments will not go over 30% of your income, preferably salary.

They do not want to lend to those whose incomes are unsure. They are particularly happy to loan to civil servants, as the latter cannot lose their jobs and therefore can necessarily pay off their loan as planned. They also offer loans to those who have a CDI (Contrat de duréee indeterminée, long-term, unending contract), as such a contract means the person is most likely not to lose their job. On the other hand, if you are neither a civil servant nor have a CDI, but only have a CDD (Contrat à durée déterminée, a fixed term contract) or even worse, you have a freelance job, they may not want to lend to you as they fear you might lose your job and then default. These eventualities must be worked out with the bank.

As a case in point, after three years of legal work to get permission to enlarge my house, I lost my job. Among the answers I got to queries for a bank loan, was the memorable, “Madame, come back to us when you find a job.”

Banks get cold feet and do not want to bother with repossessing your property, no matter its worth, no matter the collateral you offer. They would much rather you just pay and not make waves. It might be mentioned, too, that the law of repossession here is different from in the US. If you walk away from a loan, the bank will sell off your property. If they sell it for more than you owe, they will give you the difference. If, on the other hand, they sell it for less, you remain liable for the difference.

Another French banking difficulty is age. I have just learned that banks will only lend up to the time you are 75 years of age. This means, for example, if you need to borrow 100 000€ at age 65, you must be able to pay back the loan within ten years. Considering interest, insurance, bank fees, mortgage fees… etc. I will ballpark a figure of being capable of paying 1000€/month, and this with an income of a minimum of 3000€/month.

The bank will also try to force you into having your loan insured by them, typically at a rather high cost. Legally you can look for other insurance companies to insure your loan. If you feel the bank will refuse the loan if you do not accept their insurance policy, you might want to accept it just to be able to close, and then change your policy after a year. The law protects this right, but the banks do whatever they can to make it difficult.

Step Two: Make Sure The Bank Likes Foreigners

For Americans who might be buying with money being brought over from the United States, it would be good to discuss the question with a financial advisor, both in the US and France. By law, banks report all cash transactions that exceed $10,000 — the international money transfer reporting limit set by the IRS. This means you need to report any large sum you are bringing over both to the IRS and to the French finance ministry.

The question of foreign transfers gets even thornier in the case where the down payment might be a gift from a US parent. For example, a mother might want to gift her only son $100,000. Under US law she is allowed to gift him $15,000 tax-free per year. After that, a tax applies. 

Under French law, she can gift her son up to 100 000 € every fifteen years. In this case, although he must report this gift to the French Finance Ministry, or his tax office, there should be no French tax on the amount. Before transferring any large amount of money from one country to another be sure to get advice from a professional.

If you want a list of banks that like dealing with Americans, the comments section on this article we wrote is constantly being updated with names of banks.

Step Three: Work With a Notaire to Sign Your Real Estate Sales Acquisition

A real-estate sales acquisition must necessarily take place through the services of a notaire (real estate-inheritance lawyer). You must calculate in your budget the sum over and above the price of the property that must be paid in government taxes and notaire’s fees which are commonly combined and called frais de notaire. A good rule of thumb is to count ten percent, although it usually comes to a bit less.

Once you and the seller have agreed to the sale, the first step is to go to a notaire to sign a promesse de vente (pre-sales agreement). Once the purchase is concluded, the buyer becomes tied to the notaire until the property is no longer theirs. For this reason, it is the buyer who chooses the notaire. Get a recommendation; some do their work better than others and there is relatively little difference in the price. Remember this is a relationship that will last for better or for worse until you sell the property or your children inherit.

This agreement will include the agreed-upon price as well as the time-lapse (typically a month) that is allowed for the purchaser to get (or not) a bank loan. It will also state when the sale is to be signed. Make sure there is a clause that states that if no bank offers a loan, the sale is off at no cost to the purchaser. 

When signing the sales agreement the purchaser will leave a down payment for the seller, but the sum will stay in the hands of the notaire until the final sale is signed. The notaire will also issue you a special document to use whereby should you change your mind within seven days, you will not lose your down payment.

Step Four: Finalize The Negotiations

It is now that you will finalize the negotiations with all those banks you had talked with and make your final decision as to whom you will sign with. On my last purchase, I signed the agreement on a Friday, saw one bank that evening, another the next morning, and left for Chicago on Monday. The rest of the negotiations took place by phone (whereby I got one bright, cheerful call at 3am Chicago time!) and email. I made my final decision on my return three weeks later.

While you are getting your loan in order, the seller will be getting a diagnosis of the property including an ecological report, the final number of square meters and a geological report including whether there is/was a quarry under your building or an underground river bed, whether there are termites, various types of pollution, energy efficiency…

Other things to keep in mind as you prepare to buy: 

  • Are you buying alone? 
  • If there are two of you, are you both signing 50/50 or will the condo belong to only one of you? 
  • Who is paying, or are you both paying? 
  • What is the percentage each one is contributing to the purchase? Remember, in case of any separation the condo will be divided according to each person’s contribution as stated in the deed.

It is possible to make the purchase as an inheritance hedge. For example, you can buy in the form of what is called indivision whereby one person, typically a parent or spouse, will have exclusive use of the property (usufruit) and the other will have ownership. In this case, when the usufruitier passes away, the heir will have untaxed, complete ownership of the property.

Finally, with the bank’s agreement, you can set an appointment and return to the notaire’s for the final signature. The notaire will read aloud every bit of information they have gathered including the date of birth of the previous owner, their profession, how they got the condo, e.g. who they bought from, inherited from, or their loan. On my last acquisition, I was stupefied to learn that the owner had only had a seven-year loan to pay for the property. Those were the days!

Step Five: Pay Attention

Be sure you listen attentively to every word, as boring as it might be. There will be the yearly real estate taxes to be divided up. Now that the living tax (taxe d’habitation) has been more or less phased out, there remains taxe foncier. Normally this will be divided on a pro-rata basis, that each owner will pay the percentage of the part of that year that they owned the property. 

At my last signature, in a second week of September, the owner gracefully said she would fully pay for the taxe d’habitation of that year. I accepted the taxe foncier as of the first week of September, although we only signed on the second week, allowing for a simple division of three quarters and one quarter. It was a very pleasant signature process. The surprised notaire told us the story whereby the buyer and seller negotiated the taxes down to exact pennies.

Make sure everything that was said to be included is indeed included in the deed. For example, my ground-floor neighbor in the main building of my condo gets full use of the garden attached to the building up to the fence where my garden begins. Her exclusive use of the garden was not included in what the notaire read out, and she refused to sign until it was added. In another case, there was a mix-up of storage lockers, and the notaire held back 10 000 € until the right locker was emptied and ready for use for the new owners. Know what you are getting into. You can still refuse to sign if there is a problem that you had not been made aware of.

And now, assuming all has gone well and all the parties concerned have signed all the documents, you will simply leave the notaire’s office, keys in hand, the happy owner of a Paris property. And the rest of the story is yours.

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your home in Paris

Finding Your Dream Home in Paris Part I: Location, Location, Location

If you’ve made the decision to stay for the long haul in Paris, you should be thinking about purchasing your primary residence. As a friend once said to me, paying rent is money thrown away. In spite of rent control, rents do keep increasing. And your landlord/lady can always ask you to leave should they want to sell the condo, house a family member, or move into the condo themselves.

Of course, finding and buying real estate in Paris is easier said than done.

Step One: Determine Your Budget

The first step of your search-and-purchase is setting a budget and deciding on an area. The latter often depends on the former, which implies possible trade-offs in comfort and size for location and price.

The size of the condo will be expressed in square meters (mètres carrés), rather than by its number of bedrooms, all rooms being considered equal. You can thus find a single-room studio condo of 30 square meters, (for a ballpark figure, I tend to multiply by ten to get the number of square feet, thus 300 square feet more or less) just as the same size condo can be divided into 2 rooms. Various sites will inform you of the average price of a square meter in the twenty arrondissements of Paris. You can start by looking here and here.

How these square meters are calculated has been regulated by the loi Carrez which was passed in 1996. It legally defines the living area (surface habitable) of a condominium apartment and must appear in the deed of sale (acte de vente). 

However, the “real” living area may be greater than the living area as defined by the loi Carrez, as it does not include any floor space under 1m80. This means, for example, any sloping roof area in a top-floor apartment, does not count until it reaches 1m80, nor does the area under a staircase until it reaches a height of 1m80. Balconies are not included in this calculation, although they do bring up the price (per square meter) as they make the property more attractive. Also, as another example, my finished basement cannot be considered in the calculation of my house’s liveable surface as the ceiling is at 1m78.

You will thus find announcements that give both loi Carrez (official) living space size and general floor space which might differ, especially for condos on the top floor. The advantage in purchasing a property with such differences is that you can find a nice condo on a top floor, for example, at a lower cost per square meter as it has a sloping ceiling. 

A friend of mine has a wonderful, bright, single-room studio with few square meters according to the loi Carrez, but in fact, has a second floor with a sloping ceiling which serves as a bedroom and bathroom making it into a quasi two-room apartment.

There are, of course, disadvantages. If you ever want to rent out the condo, it is only the square meters according to the loi Carrez that can be taken into account for the Paris rent-control price. Also, you cannot rent out a condo that is smaller than nine square meters according to the loi Carrez, no matter how much floor space there is.

It is to be noted, too, that normally a surveyor has calculated the exact number of square meters in a given condo and this number will be transcribed in the sales deed. You can, once you move in, call in your own surveyor if you believe there is an error in the calculation. If it is found that the condo is more than five percent smaller than the declared surface on the sales deed, you can ask to get a refund for the difference.

Step Two: Determine Where You Want To Live

Check out the average price/square meter in the area you are looking to know in advance if your budget is realistic for the size of the apartment you are looking for. If not, which is more important, location or size? A two-room apartment (i.e. one-bedroom) in the center of Paris, or a three-room apartment in the much less trendy east? Who inhabits the area? Will you be comfortable there? 

An area can differ from one street to another. I was looking for a studio in the 2nd arrondissement and got a call from an agency. He asked if I knew the rue Blondel. No, I didn’t. “There are prostitutes plying their trade there; is that OK with you?” “No thanks, I won’t visit,” even though the price was right. I’m not particularly bothered by prostitutes, but the johns and pimps that accompany them make me uncomfortable.

Visit all the real estate agencies in the area. Get on their lists to be called when something that responds to your criteria comes in. Check online. Agencies advertise on SeLoger, Logic-Immo, and others.

Particulier à Particulier is a site where owners put up their real estate for sale without going through an agency. This is how I found my last purchase, un perle rare (a rare pearl), a French expression for something exceptional: a large studio at a price much lower than the average market price per square meter for the area located in the 100-meter long street that I’d fallen in love with. I badgered the poor seller every evening to get her to let me visit as soon as possible and got myself first in line. After a year of real-estate hunting (the average search time), I knew the prices, knew what I wanted, and neither hesitated nor negotiated and said I’d take it!

Step Three: Get Specific

To save time in your search, when you visit an agency or get a call, ask basic questions beyond the price: 

  • How many square meters is the apartment? Divide the price by the number of square meters and you will get the price/square meter. 
  • What floor is it on? 
  • Is there a lift? 
  • What’s the height of the ceiling? Some ceilings are particularly low; others might be comfortably high. The average is about 2m50. 
  • Is the toilet electric or not? Non-electric toilets are called sani-broyeur. Some toilets have been added to apartments where there are no special toilet pipes and therefore whatever goes in must be ground down. Such a toilet is fragile and always needs changing sooner or later and becomes costly in the long run.

There are various differences in condos to keep in mind. The idea of a “penthouse” is inexistent in Paris. The étage noble (the grand floor, the most opulent of old buildings) is usually the first floor (the one above the ground floor, the second floor in the US) with higher ceilings than the rest of the building, but also more expensive. Top floors, in fact, can be very hot in summer and cold in winter, and usually have sloping ceilings. Ground floors are easy for robbers to get into, tend to be noisier and dirtier from the street, but again, cheaper.

Lift or no lift? It depends on how high your floor is. 5th-floor walk-ups are not uncommon, but less expensive than other floors or apartments that have an elevator. No matter what floor you live on, later you will pay co-owners dues on the lift if there is one.

It is always recommended to ask to see the minutes of the last meeting of the co-owners association (procès-verbal d’assemblée générale) and a copy of the last year’s fees (appels de fonds et de charges). The latter documents will inform you of the approximate yearly cost you will have to pay once you acquire the property. The former will inform you if there are any difficulties within the co-owners association, whether the co-owner selling the property is up to date on their dues, and whether there are any works that have been voted on that you will have to pay for once the property is yours. 

Not looking over these documents may mean you are in for some bad surprises, e.g., animosities among the co-owners making it difficult to get important works done and then paying for them. After moving in I found a wall of my house was separating from the rest of the construction and I had to take both the co-owners association and the contractors next door to court (a two-year process which I won and got everything fixed and all has been well ever since). 

Friends have found an electricity bill that was never paid whereby the new owners cannot get electricity until they can come to an agreement with the utility company. Check, too, the cost of yearly real-estate tax, (taxe fonciere) which you will probably find surprisingly low as compared to US real estate taxes. As a comparison, I pay about 10% of the real estate tax for a similar property in the Chicago area. In fact, Paris real estate taxes tend to be lower than those in other parts of France, as companies pay a good proportion of Paris’ real estate tax. However, our present mayor, Anne Hidalgo has been overspending and this reflects in a yearly rise in the Paris tax bill.

On the other hand, if you find what you believe is your dream property that many others are clamoring for, it can be worth taking the chance (cf. above, my last acquisition) of not looking into these financial questions. I have friends who had seen a condo, checked all the papers, negotiated the price and just before signing the pre-sales agreement, the owner found another purchaser. They finally did buy another condo, but continued to regret the one that got away.

“Seek and Ye Shall Find”

Searching for just the right place to call your own can be exciting, frustrating, long, and time-consuming. But think of it as an adventure as you learn about all the unbelievably different types of living spaces that can be found in Paris. And until you find THE one, consider it a way of learning about this city that you have elected to become home.

In the next article we’ll discuss the financial paperwork necessary to close your real estate deal.

Photo by Isaiah Bekkers on Unsplash

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taking the delf test

How to Take a French B1 DELF Test

If you don’t know what the DELF system is, I explained it in my article on my first DELF experience, taking the A2 exam in Annecy. Gracie wrote an article about taking the B2, and now I’m filling in the gap by writing about B1.

Why Does B1 Matter?

One of the first questions that a student asked when our instructor was finished giving us our B1 exam briefing on test day was whether the official diploma was necessary for proof of B1 competency. The instructor had heard this question many times before and told all of us that for purposes of French administration, the test results were equivalent to the diploma. This was important because we could expect the results in 6-8 weeks but wouldn’t get the diploma for 2-3 months.

The room gave a sigh of relief as I was certain the overwhelming majority of my fellow testers were there for the same reason I was: certifying that we were at this level for our citizenship application. There are some French jobs that would require a B1 level of proficiency, but those employers are just as likely to informally assess you during an in-person interview than insist on a DELF certification, which would take some added time and small expense.

Taking My Own Advice

In the aforementioned article I mentioned that I chose the testing center I did last time because I wanted to see Annecy (awesome place) but also because that testing center had a very smooth registration process, including (gasp!) online payment. However, in April when I was looking for a summer test date, there didn’t seem to be any centers available with such an easy process. So I sent a check and printed registration form by postal mail to Prosodia, in the 20th in Paris.

I got an email about a week later telling me that the July date I had picked had already completely filled out but would I like the August date? No, I wanted the July date and was already planning travel around it.

But did I want to go through the hassle of finding a new testing center? And trying to register and getting the same potential result? No and no. So I accepted the date and adapted my travel plans. It turned out that in between a trip to Portugal and returning from the Baltics I’d stop in France for 48 hours to come home, sleep, take the test, and then fly out again.

Hiring a Tutor

I’ve never been as comfortable with my French as I am now, and I no longer get tired just from speaking it for hours, but I knew I wanted a refresher, not just because it had been a while since my last DELF, but because I wanted to do well. I met with a tutor once a week in July and focused on precisely what I’d be tested on.

Every DELF exam is the same, insofar as there’s an oral comprehension portion, followed by reading comprehension, and written production. After a break you will then be individually tested orally. At my test in Annecy that break was only ten minutes, as my slot for the oral examination had come right after the written, while others had to wait a couple of hours.

The difference between A2 and B1 are a few more tenses and a level of complexity in all these sections that indicate you’ve made progress beyond the basics of the A-levels, which are all about basic survival in France. At the B-levels you are expressing yourself more thoughtfully, sometimes running into conflict, and using more variety in your expressions.

What I found really valuable about this tutoring-for-the-test was the simple practice of doing the sections with my tutor. He had many copies of previously-administered exams and we were able to target where I was really strong and where I needed some polishing.

The oral and reading comprehension, comprised of short answer and true/false questions, were a breeze. We didn’t spend any more time after a first try of them and some homework.

The written production needed some work, for sure. Some of my expressions betrayed anglicisms, ways of saying, and thinking that we just wouldn’t use in France. The rubric used in the written production is “choix des temps et des modes” with a maximum of 2 out of 25 points, for “fait prevue d’un bon contrôle malgré de nettes influences de la langue maternelle.” Other parts of the 25 comprised use of vocabulary, proper orthography (punctuation, etc.), and coherence and cohesion of ideas.

After some diligent corrections (and some discursive discussions as I drilled into why the French would say something a particular way) we moved on to the last part, the oral exam.

There are three parts. The first is a simple presentation, i.e. my name is Stephen, I’m an American, etc. There’s no prep for that, as you should know who you are. 🙂

The second is a prepared presentation of an idea. Prior to walking into the room you are asked to pull two slips from a table and from those two slips to pick one topic that you wished to speak about. The topic is presented in 5-7 sentences. You’ll have seven minutes to prepare a presentation and when you go into the room you’ll be asked to present on this topic.

In between your personal presentation and this prepared presentation is an “unprepared” interaction. Once again you’ll pick two slips, and from those two pick one, and you’ll immediately begin the interaction. In my A2 test these interactions were quite simple, i.e. you’re going to a store and you wish to buy some souvenirs for a friend or family member.

What was universal about all the B1 scenarios was conflict. Something went wrong and you had to “negotiate” with your interlocutor to get to a result you want. Part of this was funny to me as I would have to effectively pretend to be upset, and then try to argue with a French person, who I am already convinced wouldn’t care and would be ready to shrug his/her shoulders and tell me it’s “not their problem.”

While I had some laughs with my tutor as we worked through different scenarios, he just kept reminding me to pretend and that the instructors were not looking to trip me up but would give me time and space. If I hesitated or took a little longer to articulate an idea or sentence, they would wait with me, not start writing down on the exam sheet, “responds too slowly.”

Game Day

The exam at Prosodia was at 10h00 on a Thursday and I showed up about two minutes before testing time, knowing that they would be registering people and we probably wouldn’t start until 10h30. I was right and I had plenty of time to sit at my desk and even review some notes while waiting.

The first three sections flew by: oral and reading comprehension and then the written production. My topic was ways that someone who was leaving the workforce to go back to school could earn some extra income.

My individual oral exam was scheduled for 14h00 and I was done with my test by 11h50 or so, so I took the opportunity to go to a favorite nearby place for lunch (The Hood) and was back in time for my slot.

I smiled as one of the two slips I picked up was on the Marie Kondo phenomenon, her book, and whether decluttering was a successful idea. I happen to love Marie Kondo (and her book) and my pen flew over the page. If these people didn’t love Marie Kondo before my presentation, they would know all about her after I was done.

I walked in, still slightly nervous as all people are in testing situations, and was asked to introduce myself. There was some follow-up from the instructors about some of what I did for a living and my clients before they asked me to pick my slip for the interaction.

The scenario was arriving at a rental car location and finding out that they did not have the rental car I needed. Remembering my tutor’s advice I gamed out a “pretend” scenario and remembered that the instructor had as little preparation for this as I did, given that I was going to be leading the interaction anyway.

My scenario was that I was renting an SUV to do some moving and he responded that all they had was a Twingo. I lost my bearing a bit at this and laughed because a Twingo is possibly the smallest car that Renault makes. Think of the Mr. Bean car, but slightly bigger.

The other instructor laughed at my laughter and I gathered myself and kept going, asking if there were other size possibilities before settling on asking if any of the other locations would have one. The instructor played along, pretending to search on a computer and saying that there was one vehicle that would work for me at a certain location, but it wouldn’t be ready before a particular time. I said that was fine, and asked for directions, etc. and the interaction played out.

Finally, it was time for me to share Marie Kondo with these people and they had their notebooks out. One would be grading my expression, the other would be noting questions to follow up with. Just from reading facial expressions I felt that one of my instructors was definitely going to check out the book sometime given my enthusiasm. But the best part was when I finished, they looked at each other to ask if there were any follow-up questions, and there were none. “The exam is finished,” they told me.

I felt great, as it meant I had expressed everything well and they didn’t need to give me any chances to redeem myself via follow-up questions.

That feeling when you really ace a test, that you might remember from your school days? I felt that walking out, and looked forward to getting my results in a few weeks. A few weeks after that, I’d be submitting my citizenship application.

Oh, and if you need a tutor to prep for your DELF, drop your email in the comments and I’ll connect you with mine. He’s strongly recommended!

Photo by Skylar Kang.

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book promotion

We Wrote a Book, Part III: Promotion (Help Us Get the Word Out!)

So now that you’ve had a chance to hear Molli and I opine on the book-writing experience for 29 Days to France, we are asking for your help as we get closer to the “big” launch of the book.

This isn’t to say the book isn’t launched. We had a pre-order period restricted to readers of the blog earlier in the year and then officially listed the book for sale with more publicity last month.

But it’s been a busy few months personally for the authors, with moves and vacations and weddings (no kidding, between the weddings that Molli and Gracie have been invited to, more than half a dozen!) so we had planned a more formal launch of the book for later this year, October 1st to be exact.

We have plans to appear on podcasts, do webinars, collaborate with YouTubers, and write guest blogs, but we need your help.

You may know content creators or websites we don’t know about.

You might have relationships with independent bookstores in America that would be open to carrying our book (and/or having one of us come to give a talk).

You might have groups to whom we could offer a webinar.

The ideas are endless, really, and there’s no such thing as a bad idea during this phase. We are in our final few weeks before starting this media blitz and would love to hear your ideas for ways to promote the book that we may not have thought of!

All decent ideas will be rewarded with an autoresponder version of the book, and the best ideas will receive a paperback edition mailed to them!

We think this book can be a catalyst for a major life change for so many people by giving them information that turns something that initially seemed scary and difficult into something believable and achievable. Will you help us change lives?

Photo by aboodi vesakaran on Pexels

TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

What It’s Like Living In The “Worst” Part Of Paris

It’s no secret that finding an apartment is difficult in Paris. People don’t realize how small this city is. For comparison, London is 600 square miles while Paris is 40 square miles. Consider this, and then remember how much space is used for parks, hotels, shops, etc. There’s limited space, so when it’s time to search for a place to live, there are limited options. This is the reality, so have reasonable expectations when getting on your feet here.

The Dossier

If you’re unfamiliar, the French require a dossier (and a weighty one at that) for every apartment you apply for. To put into context the peculiarity of the French dossier, the first application I submitted was rejected because of the kind of work contract I have, which is a freelance contract. My employer even called the agent to explain and verify my contract, but it was to no avail. It stated indefinite work and my salary, but simply because it wasn’t a CDI, they found it “too complicated” to accept my file.

In brief, a dossier contains:

1) valid ID

2) visa

3) the last year’s tax documents (the more taxes you pay, the more money you make)

4) work contract

5) last three months of payslips

6) a garant

7) last three quittances de loyer

8) RIB of your French bank account

My Lack Thereof

I knew that my situation on paper wasn’t as strong as others applying for the same apartments. Landlords (understandably) favor French citizens over foreigners, and at the time, I didn’t even have a French bank account.

Basically, I was working with:

1) valid ID

2) visa

3) work contract (remember, freelance!)

4) tax documents from a year when I was hardly working

5) three months of payslips when I was, again, hardly working

I was missing integral parts of my file like a RIB, a guarantor, and proof of income. My options were even more limited than the average flat seeker.

Desperate Times Call For Desperate Measures

After some weeks went by without success on PAP.fr, I asked a friend if she knew anyone who had an apartment to rent. This question can seem nervy to some, but if you’re familiar with the “Aladdin Factor,” you can’t get what you don’t ask for. To my surprise, she actually did know someone, and I called that person up the moment her contact was sent to me. She happened to be a realtor who works for an agency that specializes in renting apartments to foreigners. It turned out the apartment in question was her own, thus allowing us to forgo agency fees and conclude a private contract.

I should mention that her willingness to rent to me came from the fact that she herself was once a foreigner getting on her feet in this city. The day we met, she was explaining how hard it was to get all the paperwork in order for a proper dossier when she first moved here. She was kind and understanding of my situation because of our shared experience. Once we signed the contract, I was then given the keys and promptly sent her my deposit. It was an accomplishment for someone in my shoes.

Wonderful, But Weird

The apartment is bright and clean and in a building with kind neighbors. I usually have plans in the evenings, but they frequently have apéros which I’m always welcome to join. They even included me in their building group chat when I first moved in.

When I began telling my friends and colleagues about the apartment, they were happy for me, until I told them which métro stop I lived on. My boss told me, “I have one rule for myself. I never go to La Chappelle or Goutte D’Or. You can’t move there.” I have a good friend who grew up in Montmartre, which is not far from me at all, who explained there are a few good streets and my apartment just so happened to be on one of them. The area is “un quartier populaire” which frankly I haven’t found a good translation for. It’s been described to me as a neighborhood mixed with working class, upper class, and immigrants. Some French speakers who use this term, however, might just be trying to be polite in calling your neighborhood the ghetto (and it isn’t always warranted).

You have to be careful wherever you are, and this place is no different. I personally haven’t been put in any situation in my neighborhood that made me feel in danger. I don’t feel more unsafe here than anywhere else.

The Pros

There’s a market along Rue de L’Olive which has fruits, vegetables, cheese, butter, flowers, etc. Chez Meunier is at the Marx Dormoy metro station on your immediate left. Lomi is down the street across the bridge heading to Montmartre. Lest we not forget the one and only Bob’s Bakehouse. There are other great spots nearby, I’m only listing a few. The intensely bad reputation that Marx Dormoy has is mostly outdated. As one would anywhere else, be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine.

As a single woman who often gets home after midnight, I haven’t been followed or harrassed. From what I’ve gathered by talking with people who have lived here much longer than me, the area has been cleaned up from what it once was. It’s still in the process of getting better. All this is to say, Paris as a whole is pretty safe. I feel more uncomfortable on the East Coast of the US in New York or in Philadelphia where I grew up.

I don’t live in a glamorous neighborhood, but I don’t fear for my life. Living in Marx Dormoy for me has its functional benefits. It’s less expensive than other areas and the apartments are a comfortable size. I’ve been inside a few, and I only have praise for the ones I’ve seen. They’re clean and spacious. For example on the main street there’s an apartment building with a shared garden, it’s shockingly quiet and smells amazing because of the flowers.

The Cons

The area isn’t as built up as other parts. It isn’t as beautiful or trendy. There’s underutilized space that people take advantage of for the wrong reason. It’s crowded with people either begging or selling cigarettes right outside of the métro. There’s a whole area along the main street which would be perfect for outdoor seating if it could be cleaned up. Along one of the streets heading to my apartment men at night like to sit along the fence, drink, and sometimes leave their trash behind.

It’s not central by any means. In my case this doesn’t pose too many issues since I mostly travel to central areas. When it’s time to go to places like Bastille, that’s where it gets a little annoying. Once I rode my bike to Supersonic and had to leave it there for a few days because of a flat tire. I eventually walked it back, but it was about an hour on foot.

In Conclusion

The worst part of Paris may be my next-door neighbor, but Paris is still Paris. As long as you’re careful then you should be fine. “Area” doesn’t always determine if you’re in danger or not. There are reports everywhere of pickpockets and people getting mugged, even in Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand.

Photo was taken near Rue de La Chapelle while heading to the Marx Dormoy metro.

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Enlarging a Condo in Paris

As the owner of a condominium in Paris, have you ever wanted to figure out how to get more space without moving out? 

There are various ways this can be done. For example, you can try to buy the unused attic area of a building if you live on the top floor, in which way you can create an extra floor under the roof. Or you might try to buy a piece of a hallway attached to your condominium that is unused by other owners to add square meters to your living space. In a condominium context, and particularly in Paris and France, the key word here is try. And with luck, patience, euros, and most of all the goodwill of the other owners, you’ll succeed. 

How does this work? First of all you’ll need an architect and a surveyor to measure the exact number of square meters you want to transform from common ownership to private ownership.  Then the owners’ association must vote unanimously to sell you the desired square meters and, of course, set a price. Once this is accepted, the buyer will pay for those square meters, all the renovations, the legal fees of the purchase, and for the cost of changing the co-ownership regulations. The new regulations will now include a new private lot equivalent to the purchased square meters. The owner will then have a higher percentage than before of the general condominium and will thus pay more in condominium association dues forever after.  

My case is relatively rare: I live in one of the 3,500 houses that still exist in Paris. And fewer still are condominium houses typically located in a courtyard behind a street side apartment building. 

What I originally bought was a small, two-room house (more a cottage than a house) behind a four-story building: about 50 square meters of living space with a small living room, kitchen, and WC on the ground floor and a bedroom and bathroom (no WC) above those rooms on the second floor. There is a basement below, but the best of all was the 75 square meter garden, facing south toward other gardens and all that at 100 meters from a metro station within Paris boundaries. 

Condominium housing normally is divided into “parties communes,” belonging to the condominium as a whole, and “parties privatives,” belonging to a specific condominium lot. However there is a third possibility for some spaces which are considered to belong to the condominium as a whole, but whose use is attached to only one private lot. This is the case of my garden: it is mine to enjoy exclusively, but does not belong to me. 

Making Changes

While I lived alone in the house, the two rooms were sufficient for my needs. However, when my son was born, space became tight. My first course of action was to make use of the empty stairwell where I had someone come in and create a two-part deck, each 120 x 120 cm: the lower part would contain the crib and a little standing space; on the higher one I had a dresser built in.  

This was a perfect temporary solution, but I knew there would come a time when the baby would outgrow this space. To plan for the future three options presented themselves:

  1. sell the house and buy a condominium apartment in Paris
  2. sell the house in Paris and buy a house in the suburbs
  3. enlarge the house

Options 1 and 2 held no appeal for me, so I went for (what I didn’t know at the time was) the most challenging one, door number three.

Probably, had I known what I was up against, I would have given up before starting. But I was only ever informed of each step as it came up. And no single step was unsurmountable, although the whole process would easily have seemed so. 

Find Your Architect

The first step was finding someone to help me with design. After speaking with one architect and then another, I finally found one who was (somewhat) interested in the project and got started with him. He was not the best, I was to learn in hindsight, and one more interested in the Van Gogh museum for which he’d been retained by the State than in my little enlargement. I was later to find that he and his maître d’oeuvre (the overseer of the project to try and put it simply) were padding my estimate in unnecessary ways, akin to a government contract. 

Before accepting the project, he sent me off to the Paris urban planning office (Centre d’information, de Documentation et d’Exposition d’Urbanisme et d’Architecture de Paris et de la Métropole parisienne). In this building, where free exhibitions concerning Paris architecture often take place, and which is easily reached by metro Sully-Morland, I wandered a bit. Most of the offices were empty due to it being an extended weekend in May. However I did encounter a relatively relaxed city architect who, when hearing of my project responded, “If that is your dream, go ahead.” And this I reported back to the architect. 

Find Your Limitations

Next you’ll need to learn about all the constraints that Paris urban planning will set on the construction. In this case, I was required to be set back a minimum twenty meters from the street, and could build no higher than eight meters (on account of the building situated behind the house). My criteria was that the new wing would look as if it had been built with the original house, and when moving around within the house I would not feel as if I were going into a different building.  

In agreement with all these criteria, a plan was drafted by the architect which included the contractor he wanted to work with. Because the ground floor of the original house is raised, this height unfortunately did not allow for two floors in the new wing. While the architect was only going to give me a single room of normal height, I told him that if the urbanisme allows up to eight meters, I wanted eight meters. I would decide how to fill the space of the cathedral ceiling later.  

As he could not figure out how to attach the new wing to the original house owing to a very complicated roofing pattern, he decided to simply attach the wing at ground level, and leave a  balcony upstairs with a skylight over what would become the dining room.  

These plans were then submitted to Paris urban planning and he did what he had to do to get the proposal accepted. I have heard there was a lunch involved, which can be a solution to quite a few problems with bureaucracy in France.

Put It to a Vote

Once accepted, the plans had to be voted on with the owners’ committee and the price for the land the wing would be built on had to be negotiated. I probably could have negotiated better and saved a bit of money, but no one helped and it was me against the rest of the owners. The important point is that the vote came out in my favor and I could move on with the official purchase of the land at the notary’s and the construction.  

It so happened that before signing on with the contractor, my central heater broke down. A friend whose father had worked at a company making central heaters recommended what I should get. I ordered the heater and water heater he recommended.

However to finish the installation, an electrician needed to come by. As I was about to work with a contractor, I asked him to send someone to take care of it without asking for an estimate. Big mistake. When the invoice came in I had been billed at the price of three hours for the work of a full-fledged engineer and not just an electrician. This got me wondering as to the billing for the enlargement. 

Lucky for me, by chance I met an architect who recommended a contractor. I gave him a copy of my estimate, minus costs, and had him fill in his prices. The result was about a third less than the architect’s contractor

Final Meeting

Not long after we had a meeting at my house for the final signature. Being a lone woman, and knowing I would be at a disadvantage with these people, I had a male friend come in a back me up.  First I attacked the price of their electrician, whereby they immediately accepted the average price for the work. Then I presented the second estimate. Both contractor and architect noted immediately it was exactly the same work (minus details like setting up a pre-fab temporary housing for the workers in the street — after all I said they could change in my house and use the bathroom!). Both architect and contractor refused the lower price and withdrew from the job.  

This left me as my own “maître d’oeuvre” in spite of my knowing little about architecture. Not really the best state of affairs. But who knew? 

At this point, approximately four years after the enlargement was simply a glint in the back of my eye, the construction of the wing began while I continued to live in the main house. This wasn’t a problem while the foundation was being dug, the walls built up, and the roof was laid on both old and new structure. But when

  • the old oak, ironwork, and glass door and the oculus window were to be repositioned into their new frames, and
  • the kitchen window was to become the opening into what would be a small dining area, and 
  • a door was to be created onto the new balcony 

we began living with the dust and dirt of these transformations and the interior work.

Get Me an Estimate

And there were those changes in plans that needed to be estimated and negotiated.

“Only a two-meter window in the room? No, I want three meters.” “That will cost you,” said the contractor. “OK, get me an estimate.”

The electrician found antique 1930’s textile-covered wiring in the original house. “Spaghetti!” he called it. And you cannot put new wiring on old; all the wiring had to be redone. “OK, get me an estimate.”

I wanted a second toilet room to be put in upstairs as they built the balcony. “Costly” said the contractor. “Get me an estimate.”  

Then the neighbors next door did not want to look onto a blind cement wall, “Please put in face brick. And do something to break it up.” Again I turned to the contractor, “Get me an estimate.”

We decided on putting in a meter of glass brick to break up the wall. But, it was only sold in two square-meter boxes. What to do? “Put it all in!” And so, I now have light streaming in through two square meters of glass brick on my south wall.  

Mistakes

When I gave the brand name “Acova” for the radiators, the contractor said we could get others that were less expensive and “the same”. Not really; I had to change radiators down the line. 

For the tile in the toilet room, the contractor handed me a single type of tile and said to choose the color I wanted. I should have gone to a tile place and chosen from all the existing possibilities. 

Four years for administrative work, four months for construction. Time for a house-warming party in the totally empty new wing and to begin living in the enlarged house. 

Was the work finished? Not by a long shot. 

More to Do

When I went to install a new fitted kitchen, and all had been removed, the plaster was found to be humid and failing. Taking out all the plasterboard down to the beams, we discovered a crack in the “party wall” of the house, the wall that separates our condominium property with the one next door.  

According to law, this wall does not belong to me, but is part of the common property of the condominium as a whole. That meant calling in the insurance experts and getting the co-owners to accept the estimate for repairs. These were three months my five-year-old and I spent with no kitchen at all, just a refrigerator and microwave in the new living room. Dishes were done in the sink upstairs.

Later the ceiling under the new balcony began leaking. I called in the contractor to fix it. He never did get it repaired. We found that in fact, he had never put in water-proofing, so where the cement met the wall, water came through. Meanwhile, his company filed for bankruptcy.

After putting up with two years of leaking while I worked to get a decent estimate to waterproof the balcony (no roofing companies want to do the small stuff of an eight-square-meter roof) I got the roofers doing the new building across the street to write up a detailed four-page estimate of the work. I signed.

But the roof began leaking again because of faulty workmanship. I refused to pay and had to sue the company before I could bring in another roofer. Two years later, the roofing finally got done correctly and I have had no problems ever since. “Jamais deux sans trois” (Never two without a third) as the French say. I continue to keep my fingers crossed every time it rains. 

And only recently I learned that the contractor had cut corners on the flashing on the roof, literally. His lead flashing was too narrow and was not even of a minimum regulation width. With humidity entering the roofing and the prospect of leaks, I have just had the flashing changed.  

What About the Ceiling?

Then there was the high cathedral ceiling. My plans were clear; I would get a cabinetmaker friend to build a deck that would become my office. The challenge was to create a floor that looked good both from above and below. He did a beautiful job using a mix of oak and maple wood for the deck and the shelves. Happy and ready to install my computer equipment, I suddenly realized there was no electricity up there. You know the score by now: recommendations and estimates to bring the electricity to that floor. 

One contractor who came around looked up and said, “If I were you I would put in a skylight, too.”  Wow, what an idea! And so, estimates for a skylight were called in. Today I work in a light-filled “eyrie,” as a friend calls my office. 

Almost “Done”

Over time I have had other work done: I had stained glass created for my oculus window as well as for my door.

My son’s room needed to be rewired because after 40 years in this house, we only just discovered the electricity was not grounded.

I’ve put in air-conditioning.

I have had the wooden stairs leading to the basement removed to be replaced by cement, as I could not get rid of the woodworm that had set in.  

Big stuff, small stuff, a house remains forever a work-in-progress. But more importantly, as other authors have often shared on the blog, it’s about the willpower to complete a project paired with the patience to put up with the lunacy of how building works in a country like France and a city like Paris compared to how it can in America.

Still and all, it was worth it, and my friends love the “garden parties” they can attend with me without having to leave the city.

Photo is the home as seen from the entrance to the garden. The building on the right is the “addition.”

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