people walking in front of a restaurant at night in Paris

Paris is Still Just a City

In my final year at university, amidst the chaos of final exams, graduation, and a future being all mine for choosing, moving to Paris was all I could really think about. I didn’t care about making a name for myself or carving out a place in the land of interns, waiting eagerly to climb the corporate ladder. All I cared about was getting out of Texas, seeing something new.

I dreamt of the days I studied abroad here, drinking absurdly cheap wine, eating fresh pastries, discounts at the cinema, free entries to museums. I dreamt of a life Paris had afforded me when I was younger. One that was reckless, one where I had no responsibility besides to fall in love with the city, new friends, even a cute boy. 

When I graduated, I remember the world seeming so big, and I felt so lucky to have all these possibilities laid out in front of me. I had a degree now, even though I could hardly remember how I got it, and I naively believed that things would continue just as smoothly for me as they had been, given my life thus far. So, I took the leap, did the big, courageous thing it was for a well-off girl like me to do, and I made the big move to Europe. 

I emerged from the metro at Place d’Italie on a busy Sunday afternoon, with a suitcase in my hand, and an overstuffed backpack hanging from my shoulders. Police sirens rushed past, pedestrians made way for themselves regardless of others, and there stood directly in my line of vision, a big, metallic, soulless shopping mall that was the point of reference for my new neighborhood. Some residents have the Eiffel Tower. I had Italie Deux. 

I looked down at my jean shorts and sneakers, then up at the Parisians sporting black slacks and light summer jackets. An elderly lady came up to me, asking for directions. For a while, I tried to help. I looked at where she wanted to go on my phone and attempted to explain directions in French. She appeared frustrated, not being able to understand me, and gave a look like I was wasting her time. She walked off and demanded the next stranger for help.

I was breathless after having dragged my suitcase up several flights of stairs to my new apartment. After having unlocked the door with my comically long skeleton key, I immediately sank to the wood-paneled floor. I sat there, looking up at the crown molding on the ceiling and felt completely happy. A wave of warmth rushed over me. This is what I wanted, I thought. Crown molding, how lucky am I? Sure, there was an unbelievable amount of dust and mold bordering the windows, and the previous tenants had left a bunch of clutter, but here I was finally in my new place in the city I’ve been dreaming about ever since I left.

Weeks passed and I put off essential errands that would make my life feel more real and viable here. I needed a bank account, a social security number, a phone number, WiFi. But I was scared. 

Hidden within my fear were my memories, and suddenly, they all came flooding back. My face felt hot. I suddenly remembered what I was so quick to forget: how humiliated I felt when I was studying here, trying to disguise my Americanness yet it was inescapable. How I was still incapable of mastering the language. How it felt like anxiety was always trailing me, hiding behind every corner ready to pop out and remind me that this was not my home, things work differently here, and they don’t really work for you. 

I broke out into a cold sweat. What was I doing? I came over signed to a nannying agency, meanwhile I had spent the majority of my life working with kids and after finally having a college degree, I was longing to do something else. What was I doing? I was wasting time while everybody was back home applying for jobs that they could actually get. 

My panic broke me. I applied to so many jobs and internships, all of which were hindered by the fact that I wasn’t yet bilingual, nor was I enrolled in higher education. I felt trapped. I felt trapped in this undeniably beautiful, bustling, and some might say, I know I sure did, magical city. 

I remember looking for signs to bring me back to America. A cop out. A scapegoat. I began applying to these outrageously prestigious Master’s programs in America whose acceptance rates were laughable and exclusively marketed for geniuses. I convinced myself into believing they were targeted at me. I told myself, if I get into one, then it’s destiny. Then I’m going home and never looking back. They need me. America needs me.

The advertisements that fluttered the walls in metro stations began speaking to me. Women and men, children and the elderly, all those whose faces were plastered on these posters, urged me, begged me to come back. “You’ll be safe there,” they teased. “Life will be easier. You’ll get a nice job, one that fulfills you.” I ran to catch the stalled train before the doors shut, wanting to give in but also not wanting to give up. Making that decision to move back home would feel like both.

The image I held in my head of my study abroad days no longer held up. The lights dwindled, the magic faded. Paris is beautiful, yes, but there’s a lot of dog poop smeared across the sidewalks. And cigarette butts. And trash. There’s almost no relief from the heat in the summer, so it’s best to get away, if you can afford it. People can be mean and creepy. All of these things are not just exclusive to American cities — they are caveats of every major metropolitan area, including Paris. 

It took me two years. Two years of indecisiveness, of failed dreams and miraculous resurrections, to realize that fighting to live in Paris is worth it. 

I can’t exactly say what the catalyst was to deciding that I was going to stay, that I’ll fight to carve out a life for myself here. Maybe it was the political climate in America, making my idealization of the country come to a screeching halt. Maybe it was the realization that nostalgia is often manipulating, a poison for the brain to make the past seem so alluring when that’s exactly what it’s meant to be: something that builds our story, but remains there, stuck. 

Maybe it was the realization that the job market is incredibly difficult everywhere right now. Maybe it was (it definitely was) that the cute boy and I started to become even more serious in wanting to integrate our lives with each other’s. 

It was probably all of those things that made me decide to stay, despite the hardships, despite the seeming impossibility of it all, despite the all-consuming nostalgia, and, at times, maddening cultural differences. I was overly confident two years ago, I have to admit. I thought I was ready to move my life abroad back then, but in fact it took me two years of living here to confirm exactly that. 

Paris has been a city that I hate(d), that I love(d), that I couldn’t/can’t seem to get over. Paris is still just a city, with all its flaws and glamour. But now, it’s my city.

Photo by Elric Pxl on Unsplash

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View of Mont Boron in Nice

Moving to France as a Retiree: The Journey (Part 1)

At the age of 69, I decided to move to France. 

I had already lived in the Paris area in my youth, first as the child of an expat working for a US company, and then as an architecture student at the Beaux Arts (Fine Arts). Until 2005, I only had French degrees (not on purpose, it just happened due to moving, wars, et al). 

This background is, however, of no interest whatsoever to the French government when I decided to move to France (definitely or indefinitely). I have US citizenship, and that’s it. No European ancestors to call upon, unless a crusader strayed into my forebears, but that would be too long ago, anyway.

I’ll provide the story of my journey (I don’t mean the plane journey, long enough from San Francisco to Nice), from decision to first residence card. A couple of things may have changed in the meantime, but not much, as far as I can tell. I wish I had known all the pitfalls before I started; at least I would have been better prepared.

My first bit of advice is to get on Americans in France blogs, Facebook groups, etc., before you start, rather than afterwards! You can’t believe everything (and you shouldn’t even believe me, without verifying first), but at least you get a lot of information about the pain points.

Before You Pull Up All Your US Roots

  • If you are selling your home, do it before you move to France. Otherwise, you may incur additional capital gains taxes in France.
  • Before you cancel your car insurance, ask for a letter that shows your claims history (in theory, 14 years’ worth). Otherwise, you’ll be treated as a beginner driver.
  • Only some US states have a reciprocity agreement for the driver’s license. 

The Start: the Long-Stay Visa

France is not a country that is especially welcoming to non-EU (European Union) immigrants. There are no golden visas and no special deals. There are many categories of immigrants, and the first action item is to figure out where you fit in. There is no official “retiree” visa: it is a visitor visa. It is only at the expiration of the 1-year visa that you can apply for a residence card.

You’d think the place to apply would be the French embassy or consulate in your area, but no. Visas had been outsourced to a company called VSF Global — now it’s another company, TLSContact. Visas are handled for a variety of countries; the person I interviewed with didn’t even speak French. Before booking an appointment, you fill in an application.

The visa requires health insurance. I got mine via the VFS website, with a company named Mutuaide. Possibly, TLScontact offers links to insurance companies. American insurance companies may be very expensive. **Note from the editor: we recommend Cigna Global for the health insurance needed for your visa application.

You register your account on the TLS site, find the appropriate visa type (VLS-TS), provide the documents they request, and ask for an appointment. Remember, there is no specific retired person visa; you apply as a visitor.

At the appointment, you’ll be asked some questions, get fingerprinted, and hand over your passport, which will be sent to the French Embassy. If the request is accepted, you’ll get it back in about a week or so, with a full page stamp that shows your “numéro d’étranger” (your “foreigner’s number”) that will follow you for the length of your time in France as a foreign resident.

Arrival in France

Once you have arrived in France, you will need to “validate” your visa online. There will be a fee.

Then you receive an email with an appointment for a health check. In 2023, I needed a recent chest scan, but this may not be the case any longer. My scan was a couple of months old, so I had to undergo a new X-ray at the government office on the day of my appointment.

You cannot choose your appointment. If it’s inconvenient, you can cancel it and wait for a new appointment. It took about 6 weeks for me. There is nothing you can do to speed it up. If it’s inconvenient again, well, too bad. I had to cancel a trip.

After the chest scan, you go to another location and fill in a couple of questionnaires. One of my questionnaires was about my mental health. Some questions were tricky: “Do you worry about your weight?” for example. “Have you ever been upset at your coworkers?” (I don’t recall the exact wording.) You undergo an interview with health professionals, and if you pass muster, you are given a receipt that is NOT TO BE LOST (even though nobody asked me for it again).

Health Coverage

After three months in France, you can apply for a Social Security number (this is for healthcare): “ouverture des droits.” 

You’ll need to prove that you live in France (usually via electrical invoices), and provide:

  • Notarized copy of birth certificate (may need to be translated by a certified translator)
  • Copy of passport 
  • Visa or receipt for residence application
  • Proof of residence: for example, a rental agreement, or 3 months of electrical invoices 
  • IBAN (French bank account info)

Make sure the name on your passport is the same as the name on your birth certificate. If you can’t, be prepared to be able to prove who you are!

Most probably, you will receive a questionnaire or a request for more documents. And then you wait, and you wait some more. You may have been approved without even knowing it. Sometimes it’s easy, and sometimes it’s very difficult. You can call them for updates; they have English-speaking agents, but you may not get the correct answer. 

In the meantime, it’s less expensive to get medical care in France than in the US without insurance. 

Taxes

Once you’ve been in France for over 6 months, you will be considered a tax resident. Income taxes are filed around May. The deadline works well for US taxpayers, as we file in April.

There may be a tax office in your town, and it is possible to talk with the counselors; it’s better to go before high tax season starts (I waited for an hour in the pouring rain in April, and at one point someone advised me in the lobby. They were very, very busy).

A Few More Notes

  • US Medicare does not cover overseas expenses
  • Beware requesting a 6-month visa instead of a 1-year visa on the TLS website; you won’t be able to request the carte de séjour (residence card)
  • American Express is not widely accepted in Europe, and they charge fees for overseas charges
  • US credit card companies will not automatically cover your overseas expenses in the unfortunate case of your card being stolen and used before you can block it
  • When you get money at an ATM, it is usually preferable to choose to get the money in euros, rather than have it converted by the bank managing the ATM. Unless the US dollar is in free fall. You never know

This first part covers my experience of getting your foot into France! Stay tuned for Part 2 for the next part of the saga. 

Photo of the view of Mont Boron in Nice.

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The Week Before I Move to France

I’ve got my visa, a year’s supply of my favorite deodorant, and a one-way ticket to France. The countdown to my departure began when I returned to Texas from France four months ago, but I’m still struggling to fathom how those 120 days are now in the single digits. 

Last year, I worked as an English teaching assistant in this quaint town on the south side of the country. This year, I’m returning to the same program, the same lodging situation, and the same community I grew to love. It’s crazy to think that this time last year, I was preparing to live in a city where I didn’t know a soul! 

Round two of working in France has a lot fewer questions on the outset, or at least the questions have changed form. 

“Where will I live?” has become, “What will it look like to live with different people in the same place?” 

“How will I teach?” has become, “How will I serve my new co-workers and students?”

“Who will my community be?” has become, “How will my relationships grow in the months ahead?”

Now being more accustomed to the different language, culture, and daily rhythms of living abroad, I have noticed that my goals have also moved from the category of surviving to thriving. Last year, I learned how to get around using public transportation and my own two feet. This year, my goal is to trade in my US driver’s license for a French driver’s permit. Last year, I learned what a month’s worth of expenses could look like in France. This year, my goal is to live in awareness of my budget instead of relying on additional savings to pick up my slack. Last year, my goal was to keep my head above water and this year, I want to be a well of reassurance and knowledge for the new language assistants coming to my town from around the world.

So now that I’ve talked through the theoretical, let me share a bit of the practical. Here is my to-do list one week before I (re)move to France. 

  • Fill out as much of the paperwork as possible for my request for CAF lodging assistance
  • Purchase a professional translation of my driver’s license and driving record
  • Send in my rolls of film from this summer to be developed and returned to me digitally 
  • Buy a pair of jeans; mine are wearing out and there is nothing quite like American jeans
  • Finish one of the books I’m reading so I don’t have to travel with it; books weigh more than you think
  • Make a final trip to the pharmacy to stock up on my American medical needs
  • Buy a train ticket from Paris to Lyon
  • Plan my arrival
  • Start packing 

Knowing it will be a minute before I see my friends and family on this side of the world again, the logistics are balanced by the weighty work of being present to my community.  I’ve made plans with friends for our final lunch and dinner dates of 2025. Just the other day, I realized that my mom has never been to my favorite park, which is a 20-minute drive from her home. Naturally, we’ve chosen an evening to go together before I hop the pond. Making time for these shared moments is something I know I won’t regret down the line when being together in the flesh is simply not an option. Prioritizing relationships this month has meant pulling back from work projects and letting go of goals I had for this season stateside, but I’m learning that is okay. Choosing personal well-being over professional security, dare I say, even feels a little French. 

Starting a new chapter inevitably means finishing another, and so in this moment of turning the page, I’m also choosing to take the time to reflect. What have I learned from this time in the States? What am I grateful for? What do I want to take with me? What do I want to leave behind? These questions stand up against the metaphorical and the physical. Remember, packing is still on my to-do list. Though sometimes I wish my mind and heart had no luggage fee or weight limit, the reality is they do. The more I process and let go of here, the lighter I will go into the season that awaits me. And as I preach to my fellow travelers, and often stand in need of a reminder myself, “The lighter you are, the happier you will be.”

Cheers to taking flight and traveling light.

Photo from my last flight over France.

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.