Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 7th Arrondissement

Home of undoubtedly the most famous Parisian landmark (she peeks out from the Haussmannian buildings to say coucou), the 7th arrondissement certainly does not get skipped by tourists.

But, this Left Bank quartier boasts so much more than the Eiffel Tower. You’ll also find the Orsay, Les Invalides, the Musée du Quai Branly, Le Bon Marché, and plenty of other less famous monuments, attractions, and sites to see.

Like the 6th arrondissement, I spent a lot of time here when I was a student. The 7th abuts the 6th and it’s easy to lose yourself, forgetting where les frontières begin and end. It’s relatively quiet and residential (once you get out of Madame Eiffel’s neighborhood), and as such is a wonderful place for a stroll.

If you’ve never explored the 7th at length, or are wondering if you may have missed something the first time around, this guide outlines exactly what there is to see, do, and eat.

The Eiffel Tower and Champs de Mars

I won’t spend too much time going over the Iron Lady — I’m assuming most TAIP readers have already visited. But, there are some fun facts that bear repeating to keep up your sleeves the next time someone is in town and you’re looking for something to do.

Built for the 1889 Paris Exposition and designed by Gustave Eiffel, it was actually quite controversial at the time. For starters, it was bright red and many feared it would dominate the city with its height and color. Many Parisians thought it was too expensive, and they also rejected it as a symbol of modernization.

Today the Tower is of course celebrated as the symbol of Paris — if not France — around the world. It’s close to 1,000 feet tall and 2.5 million rivets hold it together. It’s surrounded by the Champs de Mars gardens, which are usually teeming with tourists and picnickers alike, especially as it gets warmer and the sun starts setting later. If you do decide to picnic, grab une tradition from the PariSeven Boulangerie. Trust me.

There are several playgrounds, a merry-go-round, and a puppet theater for those with children. It’s also a wonderful place to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle once the sun does go down.

Les Invalides

Here you’ll find the Army Museum and Napoleon’s comically enormous tomb, as well as sections of the area that are still used by the French military today. This was actually one of my last-explored monuments when I initially moved to Paris as I’m not that interested in military pomp and circumstance, but even I have to admit that it’s impressive.

The Dôme church where Napoleon is laid to rest has a beautiful interior and the massive gold dome itself is just as striking up close. There are also several fountains outside of the Invalides’ main building worth noting — Napoleon had them designed to compete with those in Rome.

I spend the most time here in the summer months as the grass lawns are open to the public and tend to be less crowded than the Champs de Mars, and less dirty than the riverside paths along the Seine. It’s also an excellent place to watch the fireworks on Bastille Day; again, it’s a lot less chaotic and crowded than squishing into the Champs gardens.

More Museums

I would be remiss not to mention all of the other museums in the 7th arrondissement:

Musée d’Orsay: One of my favorite Parisian museums by far, the Orsay is housed in a former railway station. Visit for its collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterpieces by Monet, Van Gogh, Degas, and more.

Musée Rodin: Another one of my preferred places to spend an afternoon, this museum is dedicated to the iconic French sculptor Auguste Rodin. Visit to see The Thinker and The Kiss in an 18th-century mansion with an equally beautiful garden.

Musée du quai Branly: Outfitted with an impressive vertical garden, the Branly highlights the indigenous art and cultures from Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas.

Musée Maillol: Tucked away in a Parisian townhouse and dedicated to the artist Aristide Maillol, here you’ll find a collection of sculptures, paintings, and prints.

Musée National Eugène Delacroix: Once the home and studio of Eugène Delacroix (whose works can also be seen in the Louvre), this museum displays the artist’s paintings, drawings, and personal objects.

Rue Cler

Similar to the rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement, the rue Cler is a market street lined with cafés, boulangeries, fromageries, and specialty food shops. It’s pedestrian-friendly as well, so you don’t have to worry about getting run over while you peruse the shops filled with high-quality, fresh, and often local ingredients.

You can find anything from artisan cheeses and cured meats to flower stalls, gourmet chocolate, and wine. I usually head here when I get invited to a dinner party — I always feel good bringing along something fresh. Go to La Fromagerie Cler for cheese and Pralus for chocolate and pastries and you can’t go wrong.

Le Bon Marché

Finally, another place in the septième that’s perfect for strolling is none other than Le Bon Marché, the city’s oldest and arguably most stylish department store. It’s full of designer clothing (and people who like to buy designer clothing) and even carries items for the home. If you’re willing to splurge, it’s worth a stop. And if you’re not, it’s great people-watching.

It’s also home to the Grande Épicerie, a sprawling food hall. They carry everything from fresh seafood, cheese, and charcuterie to pastries and fine wines. The few times I have bought things from Le Bon Marché, they always came from the épicerie section. Again, they make for great gifts.

There are even places you can pick up sandwiches, specialty coffee, or other prepared foods if you’re craving something a little more luxe for a picnic.

As with all of our neighborhood guides, this is just an overview of all there is to see in the 7th arrondissement in Paris. Give yourself a morning or afternoon to wander the streets yourself. You never know what you may see.

Photo by Tim Wildsmith on Unsplash

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A security guard standing outside La Sorbonne in Paris 5th

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 5th Arrondissement

Posted by Molli Sébrier

The Latin Quarter, La Sorbonne, Rue Mouffetard, the Panthéon, the Jardin des Plantes and so much more — that’s what you’ll find in the 5th arrondissement of Paris. I spent a lot of time here when I was a student. It makes sense: the Latin Quarter is colloquially referred to as the quartier des étudiants, or the student quarter.

Like the 6th arrondissement, it boasts a “quintessentially Parisian” look and feel. Haussmannian buildings as far as you can see, small manicured gardens and squares, cafés that line every street corner, and of course, plenty of boulangeries.

Home to La Sorbonne (another, obvious, reason the area is teeming with young people), it’s also a place of so much history. Home to universities, colleges, and prestigious high schools since around the 12th century when the University of Paris was created, it’s easy to see why.

The 5th is another one of the older areas of the city that dates back to ancient times. You can find bits and pieces of this at what’s left of the local Roman amphitheater (oh, does your town not have one of those?) the Arènes de Lutèce, and at the thermal baths at the Cluny Museum.

Now that you know what the cinquième once was — and continues to be, really — it’s time to learn more about what’s going on in the 5th these days. As with all of our neighborhood guides, I suggest you give yourself a least a few hours to visit all of the monuments, with enough time to wander and stroll too.

The Latin Quarter

When discussing the 5th arrondissement of Paris, le quartier latin certainly deserves its own section. As I’ve explained already, it’s a hot spot for students for a few different reasons. First, it is home to several schools, including Paris’ most famous (cough, La Sorbonne, cough). Secondly, there are tons of bars, cafés, and restaurants that cater to the younger crowd so they’re very affordable.

That means it’s a great place for visitors on a budget, or expats who are sick of paying an arm and a leg for a cup of coffee. I like any place on the rue Soufflot for its prices and view of the Panthéon and le Jardin de Luxembourg.

Speaking of the Panthéon, yes, you’ll find that in the 5th too. I recommend popping in to look around — in case you didn’t know, it’s where many of France’s greats are buried, including Victor Hugo, Marie Curie, Jean Moulin, Rousseau, and Voltaire, to name a few.

La Sorbonne is also worth walking around to admire its rich history and architecture. And who knows, maybe you’ll be able to catch a glance inside if you time it right. In Paris, it pays to keep an eye on empty alleyways and open doors.

Rue Mouffetard

This now-famous street has become popular for tourists over the past 10 or 15 years but has managed to maintain its authentic vibe, at least in my opinion. Rue Mouffetard is known as one of Paris’ oldest and most vibrant streets and is home to a permanent outdoor market.

Here you’ll find cheesemongers, bakeries, butchers, fishmongers, florists, bistros, cafés, wine sellers, and more. I used to love hanging out here in my very early Paris days — again, it’s quintessentially Parisian and makes you feel like you’re walking through a movie set.

Place Monge, which is just next door, is a nice place to sit and admire the views, and perhaps munch on whatever you just bought from the market. You’ll find the Grande Mosquée de Paris a few steps away, which is a lovely place for hot green tea and delicious Middle Eastern pastries. The architecture of its little outdoor terrasse is something to be seen as well.

You may want to head out to rue Mouffetard one morning, market bag in hand, to stock up on some fresh produce for a picnic. And if you’re feeling peckish and want something more substantial, my favorite place for lunch is Au P’tit Grec, a crèperie with one of the best vegetarian crepes I’ve ever had.

Le Jardin des Plantes

The first time I visited the Jardin des Plantes I was with the children I used to nanny. Speaking of which, it’s a great place to spend a morning or afternoon with kids — not only is there plenty of space to run around but there’s also a Natural History Museum.

You’ll also find a zoo, greenhouses, a labyrinth, a dinosaur museum, and a myriad of botanical gardens to wander through. I think it’s such a great idea for visitors who come with kids and need a break from your standard tourist attractions.

On a nice day, you’ll be able to admire the Seine or go for a walk through the sculpture garden that has transformed one side of the river. If you’re taking the Batobus water taxi to get around, there’s a stop right in front of it.

Of course, this is just an overview of what you’ll find in the 5th arrondissement in Paris. Again, make sure to give yourself enough time to wander up and down the winding streets. Give yourself permission to get lost here — you never know what kind of courtyard or historical building you may end up in front of.

Photo by Robin Ooode on Unsplash

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 6th Arrondissement

Posted by Molli Sébrier

The 6th arrondissement, or as I like to call it, quintessential Paris-ville, is one of the most central neighborhoods in the city. It’s also one of the oldest — the Left Bank of the Seine has been inhabited since ancient times and was once called Lutetia — and is home to the Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés, one of the oldest churches in Paris.

It also happens to be the first place I lived, the first time I lived in Paris when I did my semester abroad here. I call it “quintessential Paris” because it looks exactly as you would imagine Paris to look if you’ve never visited before. Haussmanian buildings line the streets, Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald were known to congregate in a few of the cafés, and there’s no shortage of picturesque photo opportunities.

While I could never imagine myself living in the area now for a myriad of different reasons, it remains one of my favorite areas to walk around. I don’t know if it’s nostalgia for a simpler time, or a desire to walk in the footsteps of some of my preferred literary stars, but I’ve spent many an afternoon in the sixième.

There’s much to see in the 6th arrondissement for both expats and tourists alike. My advice? Check out a few of the touristy attractions, then give yourself a few hours of free time to wander.

Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Visit the (recently restored) church and the neighborhood-within-a-neighborhood. Saint-Germain-des-Prés is a small quartier in the 6th. You’ll of course find the église (that was built in the 6th century AD), as well as some famous cafés that are known for their famous clientele:

Café de Flore: Centrally located on the boulevard Saint-Germain, Café de Flore has been frequented by intellectuals, writers, and artists since the 19th century. Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Albery Camus, and Pablo Picasso are just a few. The terrasse is great for people-watching, but be prepared to pay for it.
Les Deux Magots: Just next door to the Café de Flore is Les Deux Magots. Like its neighbor, it was a gathering place for great thinkers, philosophers, writers, and artists. Hemingway and Fitzgerald, as well as James Joyce and André Gide, were all regulars.

My personal favorite place for people-watching in Saint-Germain-des-Prés is a very unassuming café on the corner of rue des Saints-Pères and rue Jacob called Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères. It’s usually quiet — except on the random nights they have live music.

Musée d’Orsay

Unpopular opinion: if you’re only in Paris for a few days or a week, skip the Louvre and go to the Orsay instead.

I know a lot of people probably wouldn’t agree, but unless you have an obsession with Egyptian art (the Louvre’s collection really is incredible), or have a burning desire to see what all of the fuss about the Mona Lisa is about, I don’t recommend going to the Louvre. It’s always crowded, overwhelming, and honestly kind of a letdown. I prefer the Orsay ten times over.

It’s the home to famous pieces by Manet, Renoir, Rodin, Degas, van Gogh, and more. I’m always moved when I see “Starry Night Over the Rhône” by van Gogh and “Bal du moulin de la Galette” by Renoir in person.

When visitors ask me which museum they should visit first, I always say the Orsay.

Shakespeare and Company

A guide on the 6th arrondissement wouldn’t be complete without a shoutout to the OG English bookstore of Paris. While its current location isn’t the same as its first incarnation, the store lived in the 6th for many years. Now, it is technically in the 5th arrondissement… but let’s call it the 6th for the sake of this article.

Shakespeare and Company was first opened by Sylvia Beach in 1919 and was soon a gathering place for writers like Gertrude Stein, Hemingway, Fitzgerald, Joyce, and many others. Beach actually took it upon herself to publish Joyce’s Ulysses when no other publishers would take the risk.

The bookstore shut down during the German occupation of Paris during World War II, and was reopened in 1951 by George Whitman in its current location, 37 rue de la Bûcherie. Today it’s made up of a café and a separate shop exclusively for antique books and some small apartments that budding writers can stay in (though I’ve heard the application process is a bit erroneous).

It also hosts events, chats with writers, and book signings, and there’s an area upstairs to read in. The first book club I ever joined in Paris met there every Sunday — it really was the perfect place for it.

Jardin du Luxembourg

Finally, the massive green space that is the Jardin du Luxembourg. There are plenty of paths to wander, fountains, sculptures, and playgrounds for children. The French Senate is housed in the Luxembourg Palace on the edge of the park, with the Musée du Luxembourg just next door.

It gets very crowded on nicer days as the garden is smack dab in the middle of student central — La Sorbonne is a few streets over. But, I have enjoyed many peaceful moments here, away from the throngs of étudiants.

As such there are a ton of inexpensive cafés and places to grab food that surround the Jardin du Luxembourg. A crêpe stand, aptly called Crêperie at 34 Rue Gay-Lussac (though technically in the 5th arrondissement) was a favorite of mine and my classmates during our semester abroad.

There are of course many other things to discover in the 6th arrondissement that I haven’t covered — the Églist Saint-Sulpice, Marché Saint-Germain, Pont des Arts, and the Institut de France are all located there as well — but use this guide as a jumping-off point before you go.

And don’t forget to give yourself ample strolling time to discover everything else there is to see in the area. You’re going to need it.

Photo by Emilio Sánchez Lozano on Unsplash

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 16th Arrondissement

Posted by Molli Sébrier

If you’re new here, the French capital comprises 20 “arrondissements,” a fancy French word for neighborhoods. They begin with the 1st arrondissement in the city’s center, and the others spiral out, resulting in what looks like a snail’s shell. It’s a nice image when you consider that escargots seem synonymous with French cuisine (eating snails isn’t as popular as you may think, but that’s another story for another article).

Nestled in the western corner of Paris is the 16th, or seizième, arrondissement. It’s fairly residential when compared to other areas, especially the lively 10th and 11th arrondissements, and of course, neighborhoods 1-7, which boast monuments such as the Louvre, Notre-Dame de Paris, Panthéon, and Quartier Latin.

I lived in the 16th arrondissement for two years when I was a student. While it is certainly quiet, it’s one of the things I liked most about living there. And, “quiet” doesn’t mean totally removed from the hustle and bustle of Paris. The Place du Trocadero, which overlooks the Eiffel Tower, is in the 16th and was only a five minute walk from my apartment at the time.

There are a few other places in the 16th that are worth checking out, especially for those of you who either live here full-time or are a tourist looking to do things that are off the proverbial beaten path.

Le Bois

Two large parks bookend Paris — the Bois de Boulogne to the west and the Bois de Vincennes to the east. Another reason why I loved living in the 16th so much was that I had such easy access to such a massive green space in an otherwise relatively urban landscape. Bois means “wood” in English, an apt word to describe it. The Bois de Boulogne covers an area of about 2,090 acres.

There are walking paths, fields, lakes, smaller parks within the woods, places to exercise, restaurants, a nightclub (yes, you read that right), the Longchamp Hippodrome (a famous horse racing track), and bike paths. It’s a wonderful place to spend a sunny weekend, and you’ll often see Parisians out exercising or spending time with family.

You’ll also find one of my favorite museums, the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Designed by architect Frank Gehry, who is also responsible for the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao in Spain, it opened in 2014, the first year I came to Paris as an au pair. It’s a contemporary art museum, and some memorable exhibits I saw there include The Shchukin Collection, which highlighted artists like Picasso, Matisse, and Gaugin, as well as a collaboration with the MoMA in New York City.

The modern building stands out amongst the oak and poplar trees — some Parisians don’t like it — so you won’t be able to miss it.

More Museums

The Fondation Louis Vuitton isn’t the only museum in the 16th arrondissement. In fact, there are more than a dozen. I won’t bore you with information about them all (although I know most of you wouldn’t be bored!), but there are a few that I recommend you visit the next time you’re in the area.

Musée du Vin: Housed in a historic cellar, the Musée du Vin, or Wine Museum, boasts a rich collection of artifacts, tools, and more that trace the history of winemaking and its cultural significance in France. You can explore the cellars, gain insights into vine cultivation, enjoy tastings, and essentially immerse yourselves in the art and heritage of France’s preferred drink.

Musée Marmottan: Originally a private mansion, the Musée Marmottan houses the world’s largest ensemble of Claude Monet’s works, alongside pieces by other renowned artists. It’s located in a former hôtel particulier (a fancy name for a city mansion), meaning the building itself is just as impressive as the art inside it. Don’t forget to go downstairs — that’s where you’ll find the majority of Monet’s works. Stephen is a big fan of Berthe Morisot and he was first introduced to her at this museum.

Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris: Filled with contemporary and modern art, the Modern Art Museum of Paris has one of my favorite permanent collections in Paris. Works by artists like Picasso, Fernand Léger, Frida Khalo, Modigliani, and Sonia Delaunay grace the halls — I’ve spent many an afternoon admiring them.

Palais de Tokyo: Located just à côté of the Modern Art Museum is the Palais de Tokyo. Now, I must admit this museum isn’t my favorite as I don’t love contemporary art, but if you do it’s a must-visit. The large space is dedicated to avant-garde creativity at its utmost, and hosts ever-changing exhibitions, performances, and installations.

Take a Stroll

Like all Parisian neighborhoods, the seizième is a wonderful place to wander. There are plenty of places to grab a coffee or a bite — Le Franklin near the Passy métro station is great for people-watching, and Langousta is great for seafood — otherwise, take the time to admire the classic Parisian architecture as well as the local resident’s taste in clothing.

If you’ve seen the movie Inception, you’ll likely recognize the Pont du Bir Hakeim. Cross it and you’ll find yourself in front of the Eiffel Tower. About halfway across the bridge, take a moment to walk down the stairs to explore the Île des Cygnes — technically in the 15th arrondissement — and admire a unique view of the Tower from there.

While I no longer live in the 16th it holds a special place in my heart. I can’t help but feel like I’m home whenever I get off the line 6 at Passy.

Photo by Karl Köhler on Unsplash

My Journey to France Part 2

Posted by Molli Sébrier

In case you missed Part 1, I’m sharing my unique journey from I’ll-never-live-abroad to nearly-10-years-in-France-and-counting.

I’m often asked how I did it — and while several of my articles on TAIP touch on how I’ve been able to stay, I wanted to write it all out in a way that could be copied by anyone reading. Okay, maybe not anyone. It took a lot of hard work to build my life here in France, and it isn’t over yet. I’ll be starting my journey to citizenship next, which promises to be full of paperwork and even more determination.

But, I’m getting ahead of myself. Below I’m picking up where I left off on Part 2: I was an au pair, didn’t want to continue on as an au pair, but didn’t want to go back to the US just yet. Here’s how I figured out a way to stay.

Back to School, It Is

I was always one of those people who said, “Never again!” after finishing my undergrad. It wasn’t that I didn’t like school — on the contrary, I’ve always enjoyed learning — but I was sick of papers and tests and all of the other coursework that went along with it.

Famous last words. As I finished up my second year as an au pair, I didn’t have many options other than the easy-to-obtain student visa. I decided I wanted to get my master’s degree. Public education is cheap here and I knew I’d regret it if I didn’t. This time, however, I was going to study something I was actually interested in, not something that would lead to a job one day.

I settled on French Literature. I’ve always loved reading and writing and I figured I might as well study the greats while I was in the city where many of them worked and lived. The only wrench in my plan? I still, after 2.5 years, could not speak or read French. In my defense, I came over here only knowing the basics, and as an American au pair, I was required to speak English with the children I took care of. At this point, I knew could understand about 75% of what was said to me, but I couldn’t speak back. It was a combination of a lack of vocabulary and confidence.

What’s more, I knew I wanted to go to a public school (again, cheap), and to do so as a foreigner I had to have a certain level of French, with a certificate to prove it. So, I looked around for some programs that would meet the student visa requirement of 20 hours per week. I found two: one at the famous La Sorbonne and one at the also famous Université Nanterre. I missed the deadline for La Sorbonne so that left me with Nanterre.

I applied, got in, looked for housing (and found the deal of a lifetime: I traded 10 hours of English lessons per week for a 9m2 sardine box in the sky), went back to America for a few weeks, got my student visa, and returned to home to Paris. Back to school, I went.

(Finally) Learning the Language

And so began my year-long journey to learning French. I loved my program — and recommend it to anyone who wants to live here long-term — I was the only Anglophone and so the only common language my classmates and I had was (broken) French. Our teachers also insisted that we speak in French instead of our native language. It was difficult, but it also felt like the best place to do it. Everyone had an accent, and everyone was trying to learn.

I met some very kind people, finally learned French, and also discovered more about French culture. We went on field trips in Paris and the Île-de-France region and ultimately all became quite close. Spending 20+ hours per week together will do that.

With my B2 certificate in hand, I was finally ready to apply for my master’s. I still wanted to study French Literature, and so started to look at those kinds of programs. I had a couple of informational interviews at various universities in town, before sitting down with one guidance counselor in particular.

She looked over my resume and experiences and asked why I didn’t want to study English Literature instead of French. At this point, I had started dabbling in freelance writing and had indicated that on my CV, and well…the whole “native English speaker” thing. I told her it felt silly to come all the way to France only to study English. Mais non! she assured me, and encouraged me to look into English Literature programs instead.

The meeting piqued my interest, and soon the curse of the missed deadline struck again — but it was for the best. Nanterre University, where I completed my French course, had a bilingual English Literature master’s program. Because I was already in their system, it was very easy to apply. I was accepted almost immediately (again, native English speaker), paid my tuition (400 € for the year), and began.

I loved my teachers, loved my program, and bonded with my peers. No, I never wanted to go back to school, but completing my master’s at a French public university was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had. I’ll never regret it.

But Wait, I Don’t Want to Leave

After my two-year program, spoiler alert, I still wasn’t ready to go home. I met my now-husband about halfway through year one and things had gotten very serious very quickly, in true French dating fashion. We were making serious plans for the future. But…what about my visa?

I obtained the APS visa, which gives you a year to look for work after you graduate from a French institution. I did look for a job but I knew I wanted to work in English (even to this day I can’t write in French beyond simply texting), and finding a job that aligned with that was difficult. I had no issue finding Anglophone clients, but there wasn’t a need for full-time English writers in Paris — or at least, the jobs that I found didn’t pay very well.

The APS visa was quickly running out, so what’s a girl in a relationship with a French person to do? The marriage conversation happens. I’m lucky that I was with someone who I knew I wanted to spend my life with, visa issue or not. So, we made plans to quickly marry at the town hall so that I could obtain the vie privée et familiale visa.

Long story short, I did get that visa and so my future in France was secured for life. I’m not saying that everyone needs to meet a French person and marry them in order to stay here (indeed, there’s an entire shady trade in this which we may write about in the future) — there are a lot of other options out there including the profession libérale visa, or even a long-stay visitor visa if citizenship isn’t important — but in my unique situation, my husband is the reason I was allowed to stay.

That’s the gist of it — a couple thousand words on my journey to France. I hope it will serve as inspiration for anyone else who may find themselves thinking, but wait, I don’t want to leave too.

Photo by Salomé Watel on Unsplash

My Journey to France, Part 1

Posted by Molli Sébrier

I’ve lived in France on and off since 2014. I’m often asked, “How did you do it?” The short answer is a lot of determination and a refusal to take non as an answer. But, I know a lot of our TAIP readers hope to live in France permanently one day (or are already here and want to know how to stay), so I want to share, step-by-step, my own journey to France and how I made it all work.

Let’s get right into it.

How it Started

I never imagined I’d ever study abroad, never mind live abroad. One day, when I was still in Rhode Island completing my undergrad, a friend of mine had to pick up some paperwork from the study abroad office. We had plans after so I decided to tag along. While I waited for her, an advisor approached me and asked if I was interested in learning more about my options. I shrugged and said, “Why not?” (if you’ve been in France a while, you’ll also find that this is a very frequently used idiom that indicates French willingness to try something new…another topic for another article) and joined him in his office.

I was studying fashion merchandising at the time, so after taking a look at my transcript he told me that my best options would be Milan or Paris. Was I interested in leaving for an entire semester? (no). Okay, how about the J-term in between the fall and spring semesters? (maybe…). He started pulling out pamphlets and I absentmindedly leafed through them.

At the time, I had a steady job at a local boutique and a long-term boyfriend. I thought all of that was way too important to leave, even for just a few months. But, as the advisor continued to sell me on my options (do these people get a commission on sign-ups or something?) I slowly started to warm up to the idea. He asked me again, “Milan or Paris?” Without really thinking about it I said Paris — I’d seen movies, read books, heard about the French capital. I knew what it looked like at least, as compared to knowing nothing about Milan — a few taps on his keyboard as he took a closer look at my transcript and he told me that if I wanted to graduate on time, a full semester was my best bet. “What do you think?”

Again, without really thinking about it I said, “Okay. How do I sign up?”

I didn’t even have a passport at the time and thoughts of my job and boyfriend fluttered through my mind; to be honest, even to this day I don’t know what made me say yes. Unlike some expats, I never had a lifelong dream of living in Paris, and yet, something urged me to do that semester abroad back in 2012.

I ended up having the best six months of my life, completely fell in love with the city, French culture, the food… I’m sure half of my readership knows exactly what I mean. A group of four of us even ended up staying for an extra month down in Cannes because none of us were ready to leave. Alas, I did have to go back to the US to finish my undergrad, and that I did. Dreams of living in France full-time slowly but surely disappeared as I slipped right back into my former life. I graduated, got promoted at the boutique, and moved into a new apartment with my best friend. Life was “good,” though I couldn’t shake the feeling that something wasn’t right.

A Rare Opportunity

In the winter of 2013 I was still working at the boutique and was, to be frank, miserable. So what do miserable people do when they’re bored at work? They scroll through Facebook, naturally. A message popped up — it was from a girl whom I studied abroad with who had never left after our semester. She decided to stay to be an au pair with a Franco-American family because she wasn’t ready to go back to the US.

We were just chatting, catching up, when my curiosity got the best of me. “How were you able to stay?” I asked. Was it difficult? I can’t stop thinking about Paris myself…

She filled me a bit and then told me that in fact, she planned on leaving her au pair position in May of next year. She loved the family (and had been with them since June 2012. It was November 2013 at this point) and was helping them find her replacement. She ultimately wanted it to go to someone she knew — she really cared about the kids — was I interested? I hesitated. Maybe. I told her I’d think about it.

Life got busy with the upcoming holiday season and I soon forgot about the conversation. Fast-forward to March 2014 and my friend messaged me again. Did I have time to think about coming back to France as an au pair? The family still hadn’t found a replacement. Like most young women my age, I had plenty of babysitting experience and I even nannied for a few summers when I was a student.

Just like that fateful moment in the study abroad office a year and a half earlier, without really thinking about it, I said, “Okay. What’s next?”

A New Experience

While I’m the first to admit that I stayed in my English-speaking-au-pair bubble for longer than I maybe should have, living and working in France was much different than studying abroad. I had to navigate French culture much more often (I was living with a French person and French children, after all), and learning how to adapt was difficult at times.

I was often homesick after the first six months and the initial excitement wore off — I also struggled to find a core group of friends. But, I did adapt, grow, learn, and eventually, thrive. My years as an au pair were some of my favorite that I spent in Paris and when I did find my people I felt like I truly belonged.

The caveat(s)? I still couldn’t speak French, my au pair contract was running out, I knew I didn’t want to work in fashion anymore, and I also knew I wasn’t ready to go back to my life in Rhode Island.

I had to figure out a way to stay.

Well, I did figure it out, but that story will have to wait until Part 2.

Photo by Clément Dellandrea on Unsplash

What is the Galette des Rois?

Posted by Molli Sébrier

Those of you who have had the pleasure of visiting France in January have likely come across the galette des rois at a French bakery. Translating literally to “king’s cake,” it’s a specialty typically eaten on the Christian holiday of the Epiphany which occurs annually on January 6.

The Epiphany is also known as Twelfth Night or Three Kings’ Day, and it commemorates the visit of the Magi to the baby Jesus. Knowing this, it makes sense that they call the cake a galette des rois.

Most bakeries sell the cake throughout the month of January, and in true French baked goods’ fashion, these days there are several different flavors to choose from. That’s not all that makes this dessert special — let’s explore some other noteworthy facts about the incredibly tasty (in my humble opinion as a French pastry chef’s wife) galette des rois.

The History

The origins of the galette des rois can be traced back to the ancient Roman festival of Saturnalia, which was a time pour faire la fête during the winter solstice. Over the years, the tradition transformed — as Christianity spread across Europe, many pagan festivals were adapted and incorporated into Christian celebrations, and by the Middle Ages, the king’s cake became synonymous with the Feast of the Epiphany.

While the specific foods served at Saturnalia may not have included a cake exactly like the galette des rois, the festive atmosphere and the idea of indulging in special foods during this period laid the groundwork for later customs.

In France, the tradition of baking a special cake for the Epiphany gained popularity during the 14th century. Initially, a single bean was hidden in the cake to represent the Christ child. The person who discovered the bean in their slice was crowned the “king” or “queen” for the day. As the tradition evolved, porcelain figurines, known as fèves, or “favors,” gradually replaced beans. Today, these they come in various themes, ranging from religious symbols to whimsical characters.

Most of the French people I know collect them — although just the other day, after finding a jar full of them in the cupboard, my father-in-law shook his head and said, pourquoi on garde ces trucs? (why do we keep these things?). Perhaps because they’re too cute to throw away?

The Hidden Fève Tradition

The practice of hiding a favor inside the galette des rois does have a fascinating history. Originally, the fève was a simple bean that symbolized fertility and prosperity. With the advent of the 16th century, porcelain emerged as the material of choice. The themes of the fèves soon grew beyond religious symbols to encompass a wide array of subjects, from mini moons and stars to small cats, dogs, and other animals.

I first discovered the pure joy of discovering the fève when I was an au pair. I sat around the table with my host family, and the dad began to slice the cake into equal parts. Then, the youngest in the family was tasked with deciding the order in which the slices were served. She quickly ran to hide under the table (as is tradition to avoid any cheating), made her choices, and we all dug in. The middle child shouted when he found the favor — he was officially king for the day.

Galette des Rois Today

Like many traditional pastries, the galette des rois has transcended its roots and modern bakeries now put their own unique twist on the almond-filled cake. While the classic version, made with pâte feuilletée, frangipane, and sweet almond cream, still reigns, many pastry chefs now create some truly unique versions.

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My favorites? Pistachio from Babka Zana in the 9th and Ladurée’s version that reminds me of American pecan pie. This year I also can’t wait to try the French Bastard’s hommage to the pain au chocolat — the modern pastry shop’s galette looks like it’s covered in chocolate-filled croissants — it promises to be a délice. Bakeries tend to engage in friendly competition, each vying to produce the most unique and delectable version.

Flavors aside, the presentation of the king’s cake has also undergone a transformation. Artistic designs, intricate shapes, and even savory renditions have found a place. The galette de rois serves not only as a symbol of celebration but also as a testament to the ever-evolving world of French cuisine…and pastries, of course (hey, I told you I was a pastry chef’s wife).

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Christmas Markets in Paris

Posted by Molli Sébrier

We rarely touch on “things to do in Paris” beyond our neighborhood guide series as this blog is mainly for expats who live in Paris or people who hope to one day become an expat who lives in Paris.

You don’t really need a list of things to do when you’re in a city long term — you hear about them from your friends, signage in the métro, social media, and the like. Most Parisians aren’t looking for advice on the best places to go. They go where their friends are and would never think twice about meandering through throngs of tourists to see the Eiffel Tower, etc.

But, when the Christmas season rolls around even the grouchiest Parisians like to peruse the stalls of a good market while enjoying a vin chaud. There are quite a few to choose from. Here are our favorites.

Village de Noël de Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This is one of my personal favorites as I love the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood. In fact, I used to live there when I was studying in Paris for my semester abroad. I think that’s why I like the area so much — it reminds me of my earliest days in the city when I was only 20 years old and had never lived away from my hometown.

Here you’ll find around 15 different vendors selling their wares, which range from gourmet food products to handmade decor, clothing, and jewelry.

When you’re done browsing, pop into Café Flore or Deux Magots and pretend like you’re a tourist. Try not to balk at the price of a café au lait.

Where? Boulevard Saint-Germain

When? Monday-Friday 11am-9pm, Saturday-Sunday 10am-9pm until January 1

Marché de Noël des Tuileries

If you come to Paris during the winter months you’ve likely already visited this Christmas market. It’s one of the most popular and has been around for decades.

In addition to the 80 vendors selling French foods from every region, artisanal creations, and plenty of hot wine, there are also other attractions. Amusement park rides, an ice skating rink, and games for children are just a few. Go in the evening and make a night out of it, just remember to dress warm.

Where? Jardin des Tuileries

When? Everyday 11am-11:45pm until January 7

Village de Noël de Paris La Défense

If you’re willing to ride Line 1 until its terminus at La Défense, a financial district located just beyond Paris’ borders, you’ll find the largest Christmas market in the city. Okay, it’s not technically in Paris, but La Défense is a part of the “Grand Paris” you may have heard of (another article for another day!).

Here there are 150 vendors, including individuals who sell nativity scenes from Provence, fois gras, cheese, and honey, as well as products from Savoy, Alsace, and beyond. If you have children, there’s a petting zoo, puppet shows, and Santa Claus.

La Défense isn’t my favorite part of Paris — I once had a French course there and I really disliked making the trip — but even I have to admit that the Christmas Market there is one of the best, especially for kids.

Where? Paris La Défense

When? Monday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday 11am-10pm, Saturday 10am-10pm, Sunday 11am-9pm until December 27

Marché de Noël Alsacien

Alsace, a northeastern region of France, is known as being a winter wonderland in and of itself so it’s not surprising that there is an Alsatian Christmas Market in Paris. Strasbourg, one of the major cities in the region, has an incredible market throughout the holiday season — if you can’t make it there, this is a good substitute.

The stands sell Kougelhopf, a traditional Alsatian cake, gingerbread, brioche, potato pancakes, and Munster cheese, among other regional delights. This Christmas market is quite shorter than the others, so you may want to head here first.

Where? In front of Gare de l’Est

When? Monday-Saturday 9am-7:30pm, Sunday 10am-7pm until December 18

Le marché de Noël de Notre-Dame

While the Notre-Dame may still be closed to the public (it makes me wonder if it really will open in time for the Olympics next year!), you can still visit the Christmas market that’s set up in the small park that is located just across the street from the cathedral. If you’ve already visited the infamous bookstore Shakespeare and Company, it’s practically next door.

There are 30 vendors, each selling their unique wares. I suggest you go at night so that you can see the Notre-Dame lit up in splendor.

Where? Square René Viviani

When? Monday-Thursday 10am-8pm, Friday-Sunday 10am-9pm until December 25

Photo by Dmitrii Eliuseev on Unsplash

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 11th Arrondissement

Posted by Molli Sébrier

When most tourists visit Paris, places like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and the Moulin Rouge are often on the itinerary. There’s nothing wrong with that — especially if it’s your first time in the City of Light. But, those of us who live here know that there is so much more to discover.

Many of those places can be found in one neighborhood in particular: the 11th arrondissement. Located to the east of the Seine River, it’s nestled between the Place de la Bastille, Père Lachaise, Belleville, and Place de la Nation. Lots of locals hang out in the 11th (read: good restaurants, few tourists) as opposed to, say, the 1st. The crowds are young, cool, and possess an actual je ne sais quoi that everyone’s always going on about.

Known amongst Parisians for its nightlife, concert venues, and restaurants, there is much to see and do in the onzième.

Bastille

There are small quartiers (quarters) within every arrondissement in Paris. Don’t get confused just yet — it’s similar to the American practice of designating separate villages within certain cities or towns.

Let’s begin with the most well-known quarter of the 11th arrondissement: Bastille. Home to the Place de la Bastille, a square that once held the famous Bastille prison. Said prison was stormed on July 14, 1789, an event that would mark the official beginning of the 18th-century French Revolution, a topic that will get my fellow TAIP author Stephen going, if you’re up for a coffee or a whiskey.

Today there is a monument called the Colonne de Juillet in the center of the place. After you’ve admired it up close, turn to see the Opéra Bastille, but know that the opera house is technically in the 12th arrondissement.

From there I recommend heading to the Marché Bastille if it’s a Thursday or a Sunday — the market is open from 7am on both days. Take a shortcut through the picturesque cour Damoye to head to the rue de la Roquette. Continue to wander the small, winding cobblestone roads until you get lost.

Oberkampf

When I was an au pair, Oberkampf was the place to go out. Drinks and food are cheap, there are a ton of young people, and there are several venues for live music. If that sounds like your vibe, head to the rue Oberkampf to start.

Keep your eyes peeled for street art as there is plenty of that in the area. The Bataclan is amazing for live shows — you likely recognize the name as it was unfortunately the target of a terrorist attack in 2015. Don’t let that keep you from buying tickets for a show. There is now a small memorial out front that’s dedicated to those who were lost if you’d like to pay your respects before you go inside.

My favorite Italian restaurant of all time is located in the Oberkampf area. It’s unassuming and very easy to miss and you must make a reservation if you hope to get in. No, it’s not the ultra-Instagram-famous Ober Mamma. It’s called L’Osteria Dell’Anima and the quality of the meals I’ve enjoyed there rivals actual Italian food I’ve eaten in Italy. Yes, it’s that good.

If you do want to go out and hit the town running, head to Oberkampf any time after 9pm and you’ll find students, au pairs, and other young people bar hopping. Follow the sound of laughter and the smell of cheap beer — you’re in the right place.

Charonne

Charonne holds a special place in my heart. I spent a lot of time there with my now-husband when we first got together, as in a former life I frequently cleaned an Airbnb property there. It’s quaint, lively, and full of terraces that are perfect for people-watching.

It’s another Parisian neighborhood that’s made up mostly of locals. Duke, a café on the corner of rue de Charonne and Boulevard Voltaire, is located just outside the Charonne metro station and is a great option for coffee.

Le Palais de la Femme further down the street is a homeless shelter for women that often hosts large vintage sales and other indoor markets to raise money. Waly Fay on rue Godefroy Cavaignac is one of my favorite places for West African food in the city. Septime La Cave, just a few minutes away on rue Basfroi, is my go-to wine bar in the 11th. If you want to get fancy, you can go to the Michelin-starred Septime (same owners, different location), but keep in mind reservations are weeks out, so you can’t just rock up and hope to get a table.

On the other side of the Boulevard Voltaire there’s Comets, a café and vinyl store that I’ve spent many a rainy afternoon in. Bar Outland, on a small side street, specializes in beer on tap and natural wines — it’s a fun place for a first date.

When you’re done, continue to stroll down rue de Charonne until you reach the Père Lachaise, and officially cross the border into the 20th arrondissement, which is also full of sites to see. But, that’s another neighborhood for another blog article.

Photo by VENUS MAJOR on Unsplash

The Life of a French Pastry Chef

Posted by Molli Sébrier

If you’ve been following my life here on TAIP, you know that I got married last year not once, not twice, but a whopping three times (you can read about the first two times here and here). Yes, all to the same person. Who happens to be French. Who also happens to be a professionally trained pastry chef.

The typical reaction I get when I tell someone what he does is, “Wow! You’re so lucky to get homemade French pastries at home!” I don’t have much of a sweet tooth (pass me a plate of fries over a plate of cookies any day, thank you) but I have to admit I do enjoy having access to homemade croissants, macarons, chouquettes, and more whenever the mood strikes.

The life of a French pastry chef is not for the faint of heart — something I witness on a daily basis because I live with one. What kind of training do you need, you may be wondering? Is it as glamorous as it seems? Is it hard waking up at 1am to go to work every day? Is it worth it?

Let’s find out.

A Baker Does Not A French Pastry Chef Make

I was originally going to call this article The Life of a French Baker but my husband stopped me before I even started. “Je suis pas un boulanger,” he told me. I am not a baker.

In France, a baker and a pastry chef aren’t one and the same. The baker bakes the bread and the pastry chef makes the pastries. There’s even a third person you have likely never heard of who is in charge of viennoiserie — croissants, pain au chocolat, etc. — called a tourier.

Of course, there are bakeries in France that don’t have all three experts on staff. My husband says that lots of bakers and pastry chefs know how to make viennoiserie, and many touriers can bake bread. Are you still with me?

As you’ll discover if you ever learn the French language, this is a country full of contradictions and exceptions.

Training, Degrees, and Certifications

Like all French people our age, my husband had to have an idea of what he wanted to do as a career by age 15. It’s a bit different these days, but at the time, he had to decide whether to continue on to high school or start a trade school.

He decided to go to Centre d’Excellence des Professions Culinaires (CEPROC) in the 19th arrondissement in Paris to study pastry. At the time, he worked toward le Brevet d’études professionnelles (BEP), a three-year diploma that required him to split his time between classes at school and a job in a local bakery.

Today, aspiring French pastry chefs have the choice between a certificat d’aptitude professionnelle (CAP) or a baccalauréat professionnel (BAC pro). The former is a degree program like my husband did — he bypassed high school and went straight into culinary school — but that also means he does not have a high school diploma. You have to go to high school if you hope to be accepted into a BAC pro program.

There are several other certifications you can get as a pastry chef. Le Brevet de Maîtrise Pâtisserie, for example, is the highest diploma a French pastry chef can obtain.

You could also become specialized in different aspects of pastry. Chocolate, ice cream, and 5-star restaurant-quality desserts are just a few areas you could go into.

All of this being said, you don’t technically need a degree, certificate, or special training to be a pastry chef. Many begin at a very young age and learn as they go.

The (not so) Glamorous Lifestyle

You may imagine the life of the French pastry chef to be filled with sweet aromas, sneaky taste tests, and constant praise and accolades. It’s not.

My husband often has to be up at 1am to be out the door at 2am. That means that he has to go to bed around 7pm. Not ideal when you live in a tiny studio in Paris. I don’t have to (or want to) go to bed before the sun goes down so I either need to make myself scarce (and be quiet when I come home) or hunker down in the kitchen so as not to bother my very own sleeping beauty.

Fortunately, we no longer live in such a small space so this is no longer an issue. At the time I couldn’t help but feel a bit grouchy when everyone told me how “lucky” I was to live with a pastry chef. Don’t get me wrong, I feel very lucky to be with my husband, but living on totally opposite schedules does have its challenges.

Another thing to note is that most French pastry chefs work in local bakeries, not five-star restaurants and hotels. Their salaries are average at best, and seeing as though there is a bakery on nearly every street corner in this country, most French people aren’t super impressed.

Conversely, every time my husband meets an American they shower him with compliments. They want — need — to know everything about his job. To the outsider and the foreigner, a French pastry chef must live a glamorous lifestyle. They must!

As you can imagine the hubs would prefer to create pastries for people who appreciate it for the art form that it is. For that reason he once worked in a cooking school that catered to English-speaking tourists who are looking to learn more about French cuisine. It was a breath of fresh air.

So, is it worth it? In true French fashion, my husband says, “mouais” (mmm, yeah). He goes on to say that if you love the craft, then yes it’s worth it. But, there has to be some sort of passion there to make it through all the hard work.

The next time you’re in a bakery in France, take a few extra moments to appreciate the craftsmanship of what you’re about to eat before you gobble it down. Pay a compliment to the chef — you never know just how much they may appreciate it.

Photo by Valeriano G on Unsplash