two wedges of cheese and scrabble pieces spelling out cheese and fromage

Raising Children — Bilingually? Part 1

Language choices in a mixed native-language family or one whose native language(s) is not that of the majority culture surrounding them

 

New country, new language, and maybe new family? Language, then, becomes an important issue. When two people get together they fall into what is a comfortable language of communication. However, when children come along, linguistic decisions, what is referred to now as Family Language Policy, need to be made as to their all-important language acquisition.

Some of the important questions to help plan for children’s linguistic upbringing include:

  • What language(s) do the parents speak together where French is the majority language of this relatively monolingual country?
  • What are their native languages?
  • Does one of them speak their native language when they are together?
  • Or do they speak a language of communication that is the native language of neither of them?
  • How well do they speak the majority language?
  • How important is it that the children learn each of the parents’ own native language?
  • And thus, what language(s) will the children be brought up with, and how? 

If at least one of the parents, or grandparents does not speak the majority language as a native speaker, the question of raising children bilingually is brought to the fore. 

Having carried out my thesis on child bilingualism and raising my son to be bilingual such that he has two native languages, this article is a continuation of my decades-long crusade to raise children bilingually in France because bilingualism matters.

Bilingualism as a Native Language

Long before Ronjat’s (the grandfather of child bilingualism) 1913 publication of Le Developpement du Langage Observé chez un Enfant Bilingue he had asked his own professor how to raise a child bilingually. The answer, which was “one person, one language,” has been the recommendation for parents ever since.

“Never switch roles. In this manner they will begin to speak two languages without noticing it and without having to put forth any special effort in learning them” (In: Bain Bruce 1996, p. 177). 

Although there has been some controversy on the subject, it remains that children need to anchor, in some way, a separation of the languages they are learning. Obviously, this differentiation will be inherent in their linguistic environment. For example, one caretaker might speak the majority language (the language of the community outside the home) and the other the minority language (a language different from that of the outside community). There should be no mixing in the caretakers’ language(s) so that the child will learn to keep the languages separate, even though language itself is learned as a whole. 

Raising Children Bilingually in a Monolingual Environment

Until recently, and somewhat even still, the typical attitude in France toward bilingualism (in spite of Ronjat) has been “Against.”

As of 30 years ago and much further in the past at least in the 70’s, when I was writing my thesis, how often was it said that children being brought up bilingually never learn their two languages well, that a second language would negatively affect the child’s French?

Of course, this was all hearsay in a language-political context where the French were defending their language against English as the language of communication. I remember when a very respected researcher in language acquisition, a friend of mine and a direct student of Piaget’s, said when my son was born, “Bilingualism doesn’t really exist.” I did not rise to the argument, but then what will we call it when people speak more than one language fluently? Obviously, she was thinking in terms of perfection; but then, how many monolinguals speak their (only!) language ‘perfectly’? The most widely used definition for bilingualism is Grosjean’s: “bilingualism is the use of two or more languages… in everyday life.” 

In fact, globally, there are more bilingual situations than monolingual ones, typically where in a country more than one language is spoken. This means that France is an exception rather than a rule. And then, when we think of France’s colonization in Africa, it was never asked whether it was good for children to learn French in addition to their heritage language. It was taken for granted that learning French could only be good for them. As Bain suggests, the results of research concerning whether bilingualism is positive or negative can be politically and ideologically motivated.

Language Ability

The question of children’s ability in their two languages is more complex than what has been suggested above.  Bilinguals are not just two monolinguals put together. Their ability in the two languages is rarely equal. Only exceptionally are children what I have heard called “perfectly bilingual,” sometimes called “balanced bilinguals” and which is what Valdes calls “mythical bilinguals.” Typically we will speak of a dominant language, the language the child is most proficient in, and the non-dominant, or weaker language. And even in this case, a bilingual can be more proficient in one context in one language and another context in the other language. 

Bilingualism is not just a question of Linguistics; Sociology and Psychology are also important factors in its development. From a sociological point of view, it is easier to raise a child bilingually French-English in France than, let’s say French-Arabic or French-Swahili. English is considered an “important” language and is encouraged in discrete ways. For example, I have had people stop me in the street with my three-year-old and say how wonderful it was that he would be bilingual.

On the other hand, I have never seen (nor have my students when I asked) people stopping in the street to compliment a mother speaking Arabic, Bambara, or Hindu. On the one hand, the child is receptive to compliments on their language ability, and on the other, parents are discouraged by school teachers to speak a language other than French to their children, especially when it is non-occidental European. And even for English, I was sometimes told to speak French to my child. No way would I listen; furthermore, I would give the person a half-hour lecture on child bilingualism. No one ever made the same suggestion twice. 

Sometimes children, however, refuse the minority language. Typically they are influenced by those around them and do not want to feel “different” from others, or rejected for the home language they might speak. In this case, the recommended course is to stubbornly continue to speak the minority language with the child even when they refuse to answer in that language. This creates what is called “passive bilingualism,” where the child understands but cannot/does not speak the language. The best way to improve competence in the minority language,  and to help the child to become an active speaker, is to take the child to a country where the minority language is spoken as the majority language. What typically happens then, is that the child will pick up the language very quickly, in fact in as little as a few weeks. 

Otherwise, it is important to try to bring the child in contact with people other than the parent who speaks the minority language. Reading to the child in the minority language is very important for language learning. Videos, too, help the child to advance their minority-language learning.

Stay tuned for Part 2, in which doli will cover how age, the brain, and cognition play a role in raising children bilingually.

Photo taken of arguably one of the most important words in French and English.

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aerial photograph of buildings in monaco

A Weekend Guide to Nice, Monaco, and Cannes

Note from the editor: Toby Patrick is a freelance writer, currently interning with a Design Agency in Manchester, who has a love for traveling and writing. He has a love for traveling and writing and in this article talks about how to explore the glamorous side of France.

A large part of France’s beauty lies in the country’s ability to offer something for everyone. It’s no surprise that the nation’s capital is home to many of France’s most famous attractions, while Lyon offers a delightfully French experience, and Marseille is a great spot for a beach holiday. But if it’s glitz and glamor you want, there’s a clear winner.

The French Riviera, or Côte d’Azur as it’s known in its native tongue, isn’t just one of the most glamorous parts of France, it’s one of the most glamorous places in the entire world. Synonymous with high-profile events and five-star hotels, this part of the South of France is a popular choice with everyone from backpackers to honeymooners.

Whatever you’re reason for visiting, here’s how I’d spend a luxurious long weekend in the South of France.

Where to Start?

The beauty of the French Riviera is the close proximity of its towns and cities, allowing city hoppers and travel junkies to take in several parts of the region in a short space of time.

Nice is the main city and as such should form a big part of your visit to France’s most glamorous region. I’d recommend being based in Nice. Firstly, due to it being the largest city on the French Riviera and secondly, because you’ll find it nestled between Monaco and Cannes.

If you’re relying on public transport, you can travel to both Cannes and Monaco from Nice in under an hour.

Nice 

As the largest city on the French Riviera, you won’t be short of options when it comes to things to do in Nice. As one of the most scenic parts of France, it’s also great for backpackers and travelers on a tight budget; simply taking a stroll around Port Lympia, going for a run along the promenade, or working from one of Nice’s many wonderful cafes are affordable but enjoyable ways to spend your time there.

If you’re looking for something lively, you’ll find Nice offers a far more diverse nightlife than Monaco or Cannes. Whether it’s live music bars, rooftop cocktails, or buzzing nightclubs, Nice has something for everyone when it comes to nightlife including a famous beer festival every October.

The general consensus is that a day or two isn’t long enough in Nice, but if your visit is fleeting, you may want to focus your time on the famous Old Town. Here you can immerse yourself in the city’s historic culture by visiting the many churches and Cathedrals, take in a performance at the Nice Opera House, and sample the famous Cours Saleya market.

If you’ve recently tied the knot and are heading to Nice during your honeymoon, there are plenty of romantic activities you can partake in. I’d recommend checking out some of the vineyard tours on offer in Nice or, if you’re visiting in summer, consider a date night on one of Nice’s luxurious private beaches.

Monaco 

If you can time your visit with the F1 Grand Prix, you’ll probably find yourself rubbing shoulders with some of the world’s most famous faces as they enjoy the glitz and glamour of the world’s most famous race.

If not, you can still enjoy Monaco’s iconic F1 circuit. In fact, there’s something quite special about walking around such a famous track while the people of Monaco use the same roads to go about their daily lives. The track is around 4.5km (2.8 miles) so can easily be toured in an hour or so. Consider taking a walking tour which will stop at all the famous landmarks including Casino Square, La Rascasse, and the yacht-filled harbour.

If F1’s not your thing, other glamorous sightseeing stops include the Casino de Monte-Carlo and the Prince’s Palace. If you’re interested in learning more about the Monaco principality you may want to check out the National Museum of Monaco. Alternatively, the Museum of Stamps and Coins is another one of Monaco’s most well-known museums.

Finally, we couldn’t talk about Monaco without talking about wealth and luxury. Monaco has the largest density of millionaires, so where better to do some luxury shopping than in the home of luxury? At the La Promenade Monte-Carlo, you’ll find world-famous brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and Rolex.

Cannes

It might be best known for its film festival but there’s far more to see in Cannes. The Cannes and Cinema guided tour is a great option if you’re on limited time. This will take you to the most famous spots in the city, including its most famous hotels and casinos. This is a great way to see Cannes best bits in a couple of hours.

If Monaco is all about glamour then Cannes takes that and combines it with the vibrance of a seaside town. I’d definitely check out some of the fabulous beaches that Cannes has to offer for a very different experience to Monaco which in contrast only has one public beach. 

I’d also visit Le Suquet, or the Old Town, which is the perfect setting for a stroll or coffee date. There are plenty of cafes and bistros among the narrow, picturesque streets of what was formerly a fishing village. Like most places in this part of the world, you’ll find an array of wonderful places to eat offering stunning views. 

If you want to take in a few cities on your next visit to France, look no further than the French Riviera. While this part of France is well known for its glamour, don’t underestimate its history, culture, and abundance of things to do. 

Photo by Roxana Crusemire on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

Earful Tower Book Club Reboot

For those who don’t know about it, the Earful Tower podcast is one of the most popular, if not the most popular podcast about Paris in English. It has hundreds of audio and video episodes covering everything about life in Paris and France (just the sort of stuff we love).

For some years the host, Oliver Gee, had also run a book club side-by-side with the pod. But it’s been on hold for a number of years while he had a couple of children and released three children’s books, which can keep anyone busy! 🙂

That’s where I come in. As someone who has hosted hundreds of book club meetings in Paris over the years (two of which I have handed off to successors, Great Books and Shakespeare) I wanted to see a book club dedicated to books about Paris and France thrive. I’ve had a chance to catch up with Oliver over the years (the children’s books have been great gifts for my nieces and nephews) and he’s given me the chance to reboot the club.

I’ve got a clear vision for the types of books I want us to read and where I’d like to take us so it’s an honor to be able to work with an audience that has already read dozens of books with Oliver in years past. While this won’t be a book club hosted in Paris cafes and coworking spaces, as my previous book clubs were, the fact that it will be on Zoom means that anyone in the world can join (if they are time-zone compatible).

Our first meeting is on Paris Lost and Found by Scott Dominic Carpenter and the author will join us for the second half of the discussion. There’s still (not much!) time to get the book, read it, and join us for the discussion on October 23rd at 8pm US Eastern time. You can sign up here.

To see future book selections and sign up for the discussions, you’ll need to join the (free) Facebook group, though recordings of all these discussions will be available free to Earful Patreon members.

Bir-Hakeim Bridge in Paris

Paris and its Bridges: A Story

Note from the editor: While not an American in Paris, guest writer and photographer Tayeb Bouzid lives in the French capital and is part of the Paris Greeters, which offers free tours of Paris in English and other languages. After he spent his youth in Algeria and 15 years in the Marseille area, he came to Paris in June 1988 for a 3-month-long job and is still here after 36 years. Passionate about photography, architecture, and Paris, here, Tayeb provides his expertise on one of the more fascinating parts of the City of Light: the bridges that cross the Seine, connecting two sides of the city to form one. Enjoy. — MS

Paris would not be Paris without its bridges, and there are 336! That many? Yes! But only 37 of them are along the Seine. The others are for pedestrians, trains, the métro, or to connect other streets.

Below we’ll look at some of those 37 spread over the 8 or so miles of the Parisian Seine. They’re real links between its banks, inhabitants, and historical monuments. Enjoy this non-exhaustive guide to Paris and its bridges, from the longest to the most graceful, the most revolutionary to the most futuristic. You may discover an anecdote or an unusual detail you’ve never seen before.

The Most Sumptuous 

Decorated with candelabra, street lamps, and copper and bronze sculptures, the Alexander III bridge majestically straddles the Seine between the 7th and 8th arrondissements. 

Born during the 1900 World’s Fair, at the time it also represented the new Franco-Russian alliance. On October 7, 1896, Tsar Nicholas II laid the first stone in the presence of the President of the Republic, Félix Faure. Boxed by monumental pylons ornamented at the top of a pegasus of gilded bronze, the metalwork draws a royal road to the Grand and Petit Palais. 

Classified as a historical monument, it’s often seen in films of famous directors (Michel Audiard, Woody Allen, and Luc Besson, to name a few).

The Most Filmed 

The Bir-Hakeim Bridge is also in great demand for commercials, television series, and films. 

Jutting out from both sides of the Île aux Cygnes, this metallic structure, designed shortly after the World’s Fair of 1900, connects the 15th and 16 arrondissements. It’s made up of two floors — the upper one is for the metro, and underneath is designated for cars, pedestrians, and bicycles.

The Most Famous 

Its name may be misleading, but the Pont-Neuf, or “new bridge,” in the 6th arrondissement is actually the oldest in Paris. 

Also classified as a historical monument, it’s famous for its medieval design that looks almost like a castle. On May 31, 1578, Henry III laid the first stone, finally connecting the two shores of the Seine. The first bridge in Paris made of stone and not wood, Pont-Neuf also once supported homes and other dwellings, as was customary at the time. Paris was already overcrowded, so they needed all the space they could find. 

Pont-Neuf is also the first bridge to be decorated with turrets. Its 384 macarons adorn its cornices, and an equestrian statue of Henri IV can be found in the center of the bridge.

The Most Graceful

Reserved for so-called “soft” transport (such as pedestrians and bicycles), the Simone de Beauvoir bridge is the 37th bridge in Paris. Completed by the Austrian architect Dietmar Feichtinger and inaugurated in 2006, its graceful steel and wooden structure uses the most advanced construction techniques. Composed of two curves that intersect, it connects the François-Mitterrand library in the 13th arrondissement to Bercy Park in the 12th.

The Most Revolutionary 

The Pont de la Concorde was built between 1787 and 1791 in the middle of the French Revolution. Even more revolutionary, it was built with some of the stones of the old Bastille prison that was destroyed during the insurrection of July 14, 1789. 

It allowed Parisians to walk over a symbol of the fallen royalty, as they crossed the Seine from the Place de la Concorde (formally named for Louis XV) to the National Assembly. Another interesting particularity: unlike the other bridges in Paris, it does not have ring moorings so as not to bring to mind the poor prisons who were chained to the wall of the Bastille.

The Most Futuristic 

Designed and built between 1993 and 1996 by architects Arretche and Karasinsky, the Charles de Gaulle Bridge is the most recent road bridge in Paris. With an elegant appearance of a white steel aircraft wing, it fits perfectly in the modern district of Bercy and the Bibliothèque nationale.

The Most Poetic 

The Mirabeau Bridge was immortalized by Guillaume Apollinaire (1880-1918) in his famous poem “The Mirabeau Bridge” published in 1913.

“Under the bridge Mirabeau flows the Seine (Sous le pont Mirabeau, coule la Seine)
And our loves (et nos amours)
Should he ask me? (Faut-il qu’il m’en souvienne ?)
Joy always came after sorrow… (La joie venait toujours après la peine…)”

Another bridge classified as a historical monument, the Mirabeau was built by engineers Jean Résal, Rabel, and Alby at the very end of the 19th century to connect the André-Citroen quai on the left bank to the Louis-Blériot quai on the right bank. 

The beautiful metallic masterpiece offers wonderful views of the City of Light. It’s adorned with four bronze sculptures made by the sculptor Jean-Antoine Injalbert, representing the City of Paris, Commerce, Navigation, and Abundance.

The Longest 

Spanning a little over 1,025 feet, the Aval Bridge is strictly for cars and is part of the highway that circles Paris, also known as the Boulevard périphérique. Inaugurated in 1968, it’s the longest bridge in Paris (the shortest being the Petit-Pont-Cardinal Lustiger, close to 105 feet long). 

Located between the 15th and 16th arrondissements, it doesn’t have an official name. Many do refer to it as the Pont aval (downstream bridge) as I do here, as it is the last downstream bridge you can take to cross the Seine and circle the west of the capital.

The Most Beautiful Metro Viaduct

Finally, the Austerlitz Viaduct is a railway bridge used by line 5 of the metro, connecting the Austerlitz and Quai de la Rapée stations. It’s a curved artwork in and of itself, measuring 246 feet wide and 360 feet long.

Construction took place between 1903 and 1904 and at the time, it was the longest Parisian bridge. Its design was entrusted to Jean Camille Formigé, who also designed parts of the métro. It features various marine-focused symbols, like fish, oars, anchors, and tridents, and the arms of Paris can also be seen at the bottom of the arches. It was listed as a historical monument on June 12, 1986.

Photo of the Bir-Hakeim Bridge taken by Tayeb.

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a bicycle basket full of letters

When the Police Seize Your Bicycle: Part 2

What to do to avoid wasting time and energy if and when…

 

In April, five months after the police had seized my bicycle and broken my locks, I was “regretfully” informed that they found they were in no way responsible for this (costly for me) degradation of my property as the act was carried out in the name of security (which gives them any-and-every right to do whatever they want?). Originally, I gave up my quest for reimbursement figuring it was too hard to fight City Hall.

However, City Hall did not stop there and for some reason, the machine continued to churn. This prompted me to take up arms again and I can now share my learning experience of how to go about getting compensation for damage to property due to police action. 

At the end of May I got a letter from the Ministère de l’Intérieur et des Outre-Mer. In fact, while the Secretariat général pour l’administration Service des affaires juridiques et du contentieux had refused my quest, it was in fact the Préfecture de police de Paris – Dirction des usagers et des polices administratives – Bureau de la réglementation et de la gestion de l’espace public- Pôle réglementation et affaires juridiques to whom I should have sent my file. I was then invited to write to them.

I had let this sit a while. Just as I was going to address the question, about two months later, I got another letter from the Secretariat général pour l’administration at the Préfecture de Police inviting me to appeal the rejection within two months.

This got my dander up and I started to prepare a file to do so. I called the legal aid number attached to a magazine subscription I have and had a long talk with her. She found that the State was responsible for all damage to my property and suggested I even call the legal aid that comes with my house insurance. I decided to work on it myself for a while and looked up how to write letters of appeal online and found help here and here.

Then lo and behold, a week later I got a letter from the Secrétariat général pour l’administration offering me compensation, the sum of which was equivalent to the price of my two new locks. 

Getting Your Bike Back and Reimbursed for Damages

When police seize your bike for whatever reason, it will be brought to the commissariat of the arrondissement where it had been picked up. The only solution is to go there.

Once there, take pictures of proof of any damage, e.g. broken locks. Then go in to pick up the bicycle. You will be asked to sign the register. Insist, however, to draw up an état des lieux, or a description of the damages. You may have to insist very heavily, and even receive a rejection. Do not leave the commissariat without some written proof of their taking your bike. Refusing to leave, I finally got  a very ambiguous Mention de Service which did not recognize the damages, but could get nothing better (at approximately 10pm). It stated that “supposedly” (selon ses dires) three locks had been broken. Nobody was going to go out with me to check, although it would have been preferable to get a written statement of the damages. 

The next step is to collect every type of proof to defend the fact that you have been mistreated by the French administration, and to what measure: pictures, receipts for damages, proof of the seizure…

Then, take your file to the police department to lodge a complaint. It is illegal for the police to refuse a person’s complaint. If, like for me, they do refuse (I did not know that this was illegal), take a shot at another commissariat, for example the one your home address depends on, and try again.

Once you have established a nice, thick file, send your file registered mail with acknowledgement of receipt, along with a clear, polite explanatory letter of the circumstances, your grievances and a request for compensation to the Préfecture de Police, Service des Affaires Juridiques et du Ceontencieux, Bureau de Contencieux de la Résponsabilité  of the département where the bicycle was seized. If picked up in Paris, the address is 1 bis rue de Lutèce, 75195 Paris Cedex 04. 

Keep the tracking number, watch your mailbox for the acknowledgement receipt, hold on to it very carefully… and wait.

Obviously, in the simple Manichean universe of French administration there are only two possibilities: either they will offer you compensation, or they will refuse.

In the case of a refusal, you will be given two months to appeal. It will be best to get some competent French advice on how to phrase the responsibility of the administration not to damage private property. And again, the full file of documents should be sent along with your request to review the case again.

Should you be lucky and be offered compensation, bravo! This, of course, is not automatic. Be sure to read both sides of the letter and fulfil the requirements scrupulously. This includes signing two copies of an accord indemnitaire to be sent along with bank details and a copy of an ID card. 

Send in all the requested documents, with a polite message that you are responding to their letter. Again, post it registered mail with acknowledgement of receipt.

And I did all that. A little over a week later, I got another letter from the Préfecture de Police. Was this finally my check, although they had asked for bank identification? Of course not. It was one of the copies of my signed agreement to the compensation offered, this time with the signature of the Préfecture. Obviously what they had sent me previously was an unsigned form; the police don’t sign it until after they have our signature, never first. And still I waited for my money. 

Finally, the money arrived in my account a week later. For a process that began in November, a happy ending ten months later in September of the following year.

Of course, the best solution is to avoid having your bicycle seized at all. When I arrive somewhere, I might go all around the block to look for official bicycle racks to attach my bike these days. No lampposts or other railings for me.  

And, what the heck? I have chalked up this traumatic event to another learning experience in France.

Photo of said seized bike and some of the correspondence I’ve received about it.

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

yellow and orange buildings in perpignan

48 Hours in Perpignan

Note from the editor: Toby Patrick is a freelance writer, currently interning with a Design Agency in Manchester, who has a love for traveling and writing. In this article, he writes about one of his favorite places and future retirement home, Perpignan. — MS

When it comes to the South of France, the likes of Bordeaux, Monaco, and Marseille are usually the first recommendations on people’s lips. But nestled on the border of France and Spain in the historic territory of Catalonia is the hidden gem that is Perpignan.

Fabulously French with more than a hint of Spain, Perpignan really doesn’t get spoken about enough. With something for all ages and interests, and just over an hour-long train journey from the more talked about sights of Barcelona, it is also a great destination to fit into a tour of Europe. If you ever find yourself spending a couple of days in Perpignan however, here’s how I’d spend them.

The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist 

Whether it’s for religious reasons, or just to admire the architectural beauty of this 14th-century masterpiece, paying a visit to the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist should be top of your list of things to see. 

I’d recommend a tour of the cathedral to get a deeper understanding of its rich history. Admission is free too, so it’s a great activity to fit in if you’re working on a tight budget.

Palace of the Kings of Majorca

One thing I love about Perpignan is that its intriguing ancient history is still standing and well and truly still visible today. The Cathedral is a great starting point, but the Palace of the Kings of Majorca will leave you feeling like you’ve been transported back in time.

The palace was originally built for King Jacques II in the 13th century, and not a lot has changed! This means you can visit the same dining rooms, banquet halls, and the apartments where royalty once lived. 

Hôtel Pams

One of my favourite spots in Perpignan is Hôtel Pams. This 19th-century mansion is now owned by the city, but the building itself can be traced back to 1852 when it was purchased by the son of a successful businessman.

As for the luxurious mansion that you see today, you can thank French politician Jules Pams who remodelled the building in the late 1800s along with French architect Léopold Carlier. 

The interior will leave you in awe, and the grounds are the perfect place to take a short break before you carry on exploring the rest of what Perpignan has to offer.

Eat and Drink by Le Castillet 

Perpignan offers an abundance of plazas and squares, the main square being Place de la Loge, which gets pretty lively in the evening and is where younger visitors tend to end their nights. 

For a more relaxed atmosphere, and my personal favourite, head to the square located in front of Le Castillet. This isn’t as busy as some of the other squares yet still has plenty of shops, cafés, and bars. Le Castillet itself also offers a stunning backdrop to a lunchtime coffee or evening meal.

I find Perpignan’s food and drink scene to offer a great balance. The squares offer plenty of atmosphere without the hustle and bustle of the nation’s capital, yet also have that relaxed feel that’s synonymous with Southern France.  

French Sport

When it comes to French sport, Les Bleus (that’s France’s soccer team) are experiencing somewhat of a golden era at the minute. But in the city of Perpignan, it’s a different shaped ball that residents are more interested in.

I’d definitely recommend taking in a rugby game during your stay if you’ve got time, it’s a far more authentic French experience than heading to Paris to watch PSG which many tourists choose to do.

Your two best options are Perpignan Rugby Union team which plays in the Top 14 league, or the Catalans Dragons who play in the Super League, a rugby league competition made up predominantly of British teams.

So, whether you’re interested in architecture, history, food, and sports — if you’re in France I imagine you do — Perpignan is a wonderful place to spend a weekend.

Photo by Mathilde C on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

photography gallery in Paris

Seeing Fine Art Photography in Paris

Photography is the process of making pictures by means of the action of light.” Clearly defined as a technique, how then should it be typecast: reporting, remembrancer, art … ? 

While her work may be exhibited implicitly as art, the photographer,  Tina Modotti, explicitly rejects the designation as an artist, and is “considerably affected” should the words “art” and “artistic” be applied to her work:  “I consider myself a photographer, nothing more. If my photographs differ from that which is usually done in this field, it is precisely because I try to produce not art but honest photographs…” (1929). On the other hand, the impact of documentary photography is dependent upon its aesthetic value. 

So when does photography become art? And if photography is to be considered an art, where then does it stand in a classification of the arts? 

In the 19th century, Hegel defined five arts: architecture as the first, sculpture as the second, painting as the third, music as the fourth, and poetry as the fifth. By the 20th century in the European-centered art world, it was considered that there were ten arts:

  • Architecture
  • Sculpture
  • Painting/Visual Arts
  • Music
  • Literature
  • Performing Arts
  • Film and Cinema
  • Media
  • Comics
  • Digital art forms in general

This is open to debate and there is still no consensus on the possibility of more classes to include culinary art, fashion … Interestingly, at a meeting of photography aficionados, no one knew which ordinal had been applied to photography. And this is for a very good reason: in fact, while cinema/film-making gets its own ordinal as the seventh art (as defined by the French Ministry of Culture), photography might be subsumed under media or visual arts, depending. Under United States copyright law, photography is specifically included as a work of visual art.

In fact with so much that can be done with photographs today — they can be painted or embroidered on, be multiply exposed, colored, incorporated into mixed media artworks, lens-based or not — it would seem that photography merits an ordinal of its own.

Lydia Melamed Johnson, Executive Director of the 2023 Photography Show in New York “believes the best days of photography have yet to come.” And Anna Planas, artistic director of ParisPhoto considers that “Whether a reflection of reality or a product of imagination, photography has certainly established itself as one of the most opened (sic) medium onto the world, in direct and frontal contact with the author’s environment, be it true or staged…It is the material element that enables communication between its different actors: namely, the subject, the photographer, and the beholder. It is through this trio that the image fundamentally exists.”

The French, as a group, have always been particularly interested in photography well in advance of other cultural groups. In fact, the French Ministry of Culture takes photography very much to heart by promoting photographic creation and its dissemination through its support of photo fairs and institutions that sustain photographic art collections. It even has a specific delegué assigned to photography. Curiously it has not assigned a specific ordinal to photography. Might it be because photography would be forced too far down the list?

Museums

Today, “the art gallery context [for photography] looms larger and larger as the site where image-making is taken seriously and can take on serious value.” (Ben Davis 2024)

Maison Européene de la Photographie & Jeu de Paume

The Maison Européene de la Photographie (MEP) and the Jeu de Paume are the two main photography museums in Paris offering temporary exhibits. The MEP was the first institution in France to be fully devoted to photography and features contemporary, usually living, artists. On the other hand, the Jeu de Paume will show any important photographic art ranging from the nineteenth century to the present day.

Centre Pompidou

The Centre Pompidou devotes a room on its lower floor to small temporary photo exhibits which are free to the public at all times. It has also had a few large photography exhibitions on its main temporary exhibition sixth floor requiring an entrance fee.

Le Bal

Le Bal is a nonprofit organization that focuses on the eighth art of media and spotlights documentary photography, video, and film.

Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation & Maison Doisneau

There exist two private museums within Paris devoted to specific artists: the Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation and the Maison Doisneau. Both museums showcase their eponymous photographers but also present exhibitions of contemporary photographers. The HCB Foundation offers an exceptional type of book event more or less monthly called “feuilletage,” roughly translated as “leafing” in the sense of leafing through a book. This is a presentation by a contemporary photographer of his or her book whereby they leaf through a book of theirs commenting on the context of the photographs therein. The audience is shown each picture directly through the use of an overhead projector. And if you are willing to go just a little farther afield, there is the la Maison Doisneau in Gentilly, just outside Paris which can be reached by the RER B (a suburban subway line).

La FAB

La FAB (Fondation Agnès B),  displays works from Agnes B’s personal art collection of which photographs comprise 60%. Thus, at any time there are always photographs on show, and oftentimes an exhibit devoted to photography, such as the extraordinary “histoire” de la photographie that I had the chance to see.

Albert Kahn Museum

The Albert Kahn Museum is free every first Sunday of the month (reservation recommended). Its “Archives of the Planet” presents “a kind of photographic inventory of the surface of the globe, occupied and organized by man, such as it presents itself at the beginning of the 20th century.” Come to see what photographs are on view; stay to wander through the extensive botanic gardens, and maybe find an art exhibition therein.

Photo Fairs

In November the Paris art world goes all out for photography. It’s the Month of Photography in France with the photography trade fair, ParisPhoto, as its heart. As one of the most important photography art fairs in the world, it endeavors to present a broad spectrum of the most significant photography to be had. Its innumerable participating galleries offer an array of photographic art ranging from that by the foremost classic photographers ever, to today’s emerging artists working in all forms of the medium using all types of supports. Here can be found traditional gelatin silver prints and digitally printed photos, photographic works with or without a camera, reworked numeric photography, and video art. In fact, so much is on offer here that it can be overwhelming.

Its free satellite fair, Photo Discovery, in a smaller space with table-top stands, puts the visitor in more convivial contact with its dealers who are happy to discuss the photos on offer.

During this time, many galleries, not necessarily specialized in photography, give way to photography exhibits. Photo St Germain is a walking, free photography festival where many of the galleries throughout the area opt into the art flavor of the month. The Photo St Germain organization puts up a daily program online, and during the month offers free guided tours of chosen galleries exhibiting photography in the area. Often, when such a group arrives, the gallerist will take a moment to present the photography on view. Probably the highlight of this open-air fair is a visit to the hotel, La Louisiane, which reserves its third-floor rooms for photographers to show their work, one photographer per room. Beds might be removed to create a gallery-type space, remain as a horizontal showcase, or even be used as part of an installation. It is as much fun to visit the exhibition for the photography as to meet with the artists or just to see the rooms of this famous hotel.

Auction houses, too, may have a special photography sale during this month. 

As the name implies, Biennale de la Photographie du 13e is a photography fair that is hosted by the town hall of the 13th arrondissement of Paris every two years. It aims to exhibit together photographs by well-known photographers, those by young professionals at the beginning of their careers, and others by amateurs all following a given theme. In their program, they offer guided tours of the exhibit and various workshops in photography. 

Galleries

Paris, where photography was born, boasts more and more galleries specializing in photography scattered throughout the city. As photography becomes more and more prevalent as collectors’ art, such galleries have become fixtures of the art scene with some located in the heart of the gallery districts and others independent of of Paris’ art nexus.

Camera Makers

The makers of photographic materials have gallery spaces featuring photographers using their material — of course. These include Leica in the chic rue Boissy d’Anglas, Nikon Plaza on the Boulevard Raspail, and Pentax in the 10th arrondissement with its photo galleries. There can be found Les Douches la Galerie, created above a former public shower. The exhibitions are of top quality and worth the visit and you can count on being seriously ignored if you are not there as a purchaser. So enjoy the photography! Smaller but much more friendly is the stimulating Miranda gallery. 

Magnum

The renowned Magnum photographer collective and agency, founded in Paris and New York in 1947 on the heels of the horrors of World War II, has opened a gallery in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. There it hosts four to five temporary exhibits of vintage prints and/or photographs of younger members in a modular, industrial décor.  In a well-lit corner visitors can comfortably read or browse the books, and then buy some should they so desire. Thus we might say here can be found a library/librairie. Once a year it holds a square-print sale of moderately-priced, 6 x 6” original, signed prints readily available for purchase. Although somewhat off the beaten path of art galleries (as are most specialist photo galleries), it is still located in the heart of Paris and a must for any photography enthusiast.

Galérie l’Embrasser & Galérie Clémentine de la Ferronnière

Very centrally located on the Ile St Louis and situated on the same street, St Louis en Ile, are Galérie l’Embrasser and the Galérie Clémentine de la Ferronnière.  The former, whose exhibitions are mostly of young emerging photographers is easily accessible to walk in. It also doubles as a tea shop. The latter, supporting its photographers on a long-term basis, is well worth the effort to find and visit. To enter, go through the porte-cochère where on the right is the intercom. Scroll to the “gallery,” ring and you will be let in. The gallery is all the way through to the second courtyard (an interesting site in itself), where the photographs on display can already be seen through the large bay windows. Feel free to go ahead in and look around. 

Roger-Viollet

The Roger-Viollet agency, situated on the rue de Seine, almost in front of the river itself, has existed in its present premises since 1936. The walls are lined with labeled green boxes from floor to ceiling. Signs are posted asking visitors to please not open the boxes. Temporary exhibits according to given themes follow one after another. Reprints of the exhibited photographs, or for that matter of any of the six million photographs that make up its archives (i.e. what is in the green boxes), are available for purchase for a nominal sum on request. 

Polka

Polka Gallery, well-known by the eponymous photography magazine, is mainly devoted to traditional photography by well-known photographers. There, crowds descend on opening night for the art, the animated exchanges among photographers, and the beer. 

Speaking of magazines, it’s important to mention the free magazine The Classic. As the name implies, it runs particularly interesting articles on classic photography, exhibiting galleries, museums, and fairs, and comes out twice a year. It is published by Bruno Tartarin of Photo Discovery, The Place, a space located in the 2nd arrondissement and where hard copies can be picked up. 

Galérie Thomas Zander & GalleryC

The small Zander Gallery in the 6th arrondissement always has a photography-related exhibit on show that is worth the detour. GalleryC which has a number of contemporary artistic photographers on its roster is well worth a visit where Tom will be glad to discuss the works being shown and the artists behind it.

Galérie 291

The tiny but exceptional Galérie 291 in the 14th district specializes in pictorialist photographs. At a time when photography was in its infancy photographers were dabbling in all kinds of chemical processes to develop their photographs. The aesthetic philosophy of this school of photography which had its heyday from the 19th to the beginning of the 20th century,  was based on the idea that a photograph should incite an emotional reaction. The gallerist will kindly explain and present the beautiful photos of this period that he has in this tiny shop.

Fluctuart Urban Art Gallery

The Fluctuart urban art gallery which is located on a riverboat near the Invalides now has a sister ship with a photography gallery up the Seine from the Austerlitz train station, Quai de la photo – Centre d’art photographique. While upstairs can be found a café where you can contemplate the boats going by,  downstairs is where the temporary photography exhibitions will be found. 

PhotoHouseParis

And a very confidential photography space is PhotoHouseParis located in a beautiful house in a courtyard in the sixth arrondissement of Paris. A space well worth the visit if you can get an invitation there.

Street Exhibitions

In recent years the various protective railings surrounding monuments of Paris have become the support of street exhibitions, there for the unexpected pleasure of unwary passers-by or for intentional visits. The first ever of these monumental outdoor photography exhibits was Arthus’ “Earth from Above,” where photographs of 2×3 meters were mounted on the railing around the Luxembourg Park from the St. Michel gate to the Odéon gate. This exhibit created an enormous buzz, and many exhibits have followed. The powers that be in charge of other monuments then followed suit including the Hotel de Ville which hangs exhibitions on its fence along the rue de Rivoli.  Among other important “railing exhibitions”  is Unesco’s which can be found along the rue Suffren up to its visitors’ entrance. 

It is also a welcome surprise to come upon the photography exhibitions to be found on the walls along the metro platform at Hotel de Ville on Line One of the métro. Sometimes they concern an important exhibition taking place in a Paris museum, such as the Vivien Maier exhibition that took place in the Luxembourg museum. Other times, galleries arrange such exhibitions for their artists, as was the case for the amazing exhibition of Patty Carroll’s satirical photographic works of women overwhelmed.

So take a metro ride, take a walk, and discover why the French are considered the photo aficionados of the world.

Photo taken by me while admiring photography in Paris.

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piggy bank next to gavel

Bank Accounts, Taxes, and New Legislation: a Quick Guide for the American Expat in France

Note from the editor: In this special guest post, Robert Levitt, a French licensed investment advisor at Levitt Capital Management, a tax and investment advisory firm established to work with US citizens in France and throughout Europe, shares news of two pieces of legislation that could have an impact on American expats in France. Follow the link above if you’re interested in working with Robert or his firm – MS

Americans who live in France may already know they are unique in the world of expats — they fall under two different tax regimes: the United States and France, and both tax you on your worldwide income.

You may also know that the US and France have some of the most favorable tax treaties in the world, especially when it comes to investment portfolio strategy. These treaties not only reduce double taxation but also allow you to take full advantage of the best of both countries’ tax rules.

So for most Americans in France, changes in US legislation can often be a huge setback, not an advance. At our investment and tax advisory firm, Levitt Capital Management, we closely follow the legislative activity in Washington that can impact expat Americans. Two proposals on the horizon are worth discussing.

New Legislation in DC Most Likely Won’t Impact Americans in France

A new bill, called the Overseas Americans Financial Access Act, is intended to provide relief for Americans who have trouble opening basic bank accounts in the country of their residence.  

I had the opportunity to catch up with Congresswoman Titus, the person who introduced the bill, and I’m impressed with her efforts. However, in my opinion, the bill will not be very helpful for a myriad of reasons.

Its basic premise, sometimes called the “Same Country Exemption,” proposes that Americans who live in a foreign country would not be subject to FATCA on their basic checking accounts open in the country where they live. 

Bills that provide relief for Americans abroad are a good thing and, again, I applaud Congresswoman Titus. But I don’t believe this particular bill will be helpful. Legislation in the United States famously doesn’t impact banks in Europe, and nobody involved seems to have asked the banks if it would change their view on Americans.  

I decided to do the research myself and have discussed the potential of a bill like this with banks throughout the UK and Europe. The answer? No, a bill of this type wouldn’t have any impact on what they do, because if they tried to determine who lived where it would just add to the bank’s burden. 

Most of the people I spoke with also mentioned there are logistical problems with the legislation as well. Each country has signed a specific agreement or treaty with the United States regarding FATCA. Meaning, that even if the bill were passed into law, it would not change the treaty agreement. 

It’s also an idea whose time has come and gone. Thankfully, opening a basic bank account is no longer an issue in Europe (particularly in France). Most banks have purchased the software needed to conform with the FATCA regulations. So, if a particular bank refuses an American, there are plenty of alternatives out there.

Better Legislation on the Horizon?

Far more interesting is legislation soon to be introduced called the Americans Abroad Tax Bill. It’s set to:

  • Combine tax and foreign bank and financial account reporting (FBAR and FATCA) 
  • Study and report on the simplification of currency exchange rates 
  • Increase the threshold for simplified foreign tax credit rules and reporting 
  • Give a time extension for persons outside the United States to request abatements of math errors 
  • Reduce the burden for lower-income dual citizens expatriates and more.  

Some of these issues are probably non-starters because combining the FBAR with the FATCA filings would be opposed by both the IRS and FinCEN, the financial crimes unit of the U.S. Treasury, so I’m not sure that portion will pass.

It’s complicated, but still, this is a bill that I can support and will advocate for in an upcoming trip to Washington — although it has a far better chance of passing in 2025 than in 2024.

There is far more involved in the bill, and if you’re interested in seeing the text, I’d be happy to discuss it with you. While tax and financial issues can seem overwhelming, more and more providers understand these issues and offer straightforward solutions. We are one of those providers, and would be happy to work with you!

In any case, whether these bills are passed or not, I applaud the efforts of all legislators who are trying to provide relief to Americans who live in France. It is needed and appreciated.

Photo by Sasun Bughdaryan on Unsplash

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A security guard standing outside La Sorbonne in Paris 5th

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 5th Arrondissement

The Latin Quarter, La Sorbonne, Rue Mouffetard, the Panthéon, the Jardin des Plantes and so much more — that’s what you’ll find in the 5th arrondissement of Paris. I spent a lot of time here when I was a student. It makes sense: the Latin Quarter is colloquially referred to as the quartier des étudiants, or the student quarter.

Like the 6th arrondissement, it boasts a “quintessentially Parisian” look and feel. Haussmannian buildings as far as you can see, small manicured gardens and squares, cafés that line every street corner, and of course, plenty of boulangeries

Home to La Sorbonne (another, obvious, reason the area is teeming with young people), it’s also a place of so much history. Home to universities, colleges, and prestigious high schools since around the 12th century when the University of Paris was created, it’s easy to see why. 

The 5th is another one of the older areas of the city that dates back to ancient times. You can find bits and pieces of this at what’s left of the local Roman amphitheater (oh, does your town not have one of those?) the Arènes de Lutèce, and at the thermal baths at the Cluny Museum.

Now that you know what the cinquième once was — and continues to be, really — it’s time to learn more about what’s going on in the 5th these days. As with all of our neighborhood guides, I suggest you give yourself a least a few hours to visit all of the monuments, with enough time to wander and stroll too.

The Latin Quarter

When discussing the 5th arrondissement of Paris, le quartier latin certainly deserves its own section. As I’ve explained already, it’s a hot spot for students for a few different reasons. First, it is home to several schools, including Paris’ most famous (cough, La Sorbonne, cough). Secondly, there are tons of bars, cafés, and restaurants that cater to the younger crowd so they’re very affordable.

That means it’s a great place for visitors on a budget, or expats who are sick of paying an arm and a leg for a cup of coffee. I like any place on the rue Soufflot for its prices and view of the Panthéon and le Jardin de Luxembourg

Speaking of the Panthéon, yes, you’ll find that in the 5th too. I recommend popping in to look around — in case you didn’t know, it’s where many of France’s greats are buried, including Victor Hugo, Marie Curie, Jean Moulin, Rousseau, and Voltaire, to name a few.

La Sorbonne is also worth walking around to admire its rich history and architecture. And who knows, maybe you’ll be able to catch a glance inside if you time it right. In Paris, it pays to keep an eye on empty alleyways and open doors.

Rue Mouffetard

This now-famous street has become popular for tourists over the past 10 or 15 years but has managed to maintain its authentic vibe, at least in my opinion. Rue Mouffetard is known as one of Paris’ oldest and most vibrant streets and is home to a permanent outdoor market.

Here you’ll find cheesemongers, bakeries, butchers, fishmongers, florists, bistros, cafés, wine sellers, and more. I used to love hanging out here in my very early Paris days — again, it’s quintessentially Parisian and makes you feel like you’re walking through a movie set.

Place Monge, which is just next door, is a nice place to sit and admire the views, and perhaps munch on whatever you just bought from the market. You’ll find the Grande Mosquée de Paris a few steps away, which is a lovely place for hot green tea and delicious Middle Eastern pastries. The architecture of its little outdoor terrasse is something to be seen as well.

You may want to head out to rue Mouffetard one morning, market bag in hand, to stock up on some fresh produce for a picnic. And if you’re feeling peckish and want something more substantial, my favorite place for lunch is Au P’tit Grec, a crèperie with one of the best vegetarian crepes I’ve ever had.

Le Jardin des Plantes

The first time I visited the Jardin des Plantes I was with the children I used to nanny. Speaking of which, it’s a great place to spend a morning or afternoon with kids — not only is there plenty of space to run around but there’s also a Natural History Museum

You’ll also find a zoo, greenhouses, a labyrinth, a dinosaur museum, and a myriad of botanical gardens to wander through. I think it’s such a great idea for visitors who come with kids and need a break from your standard tourist attractions. 

On a nice day, you’ll be able to admire the Seine or go for a walk through the sculpture garden that has transformed one side of the river. If you’re taking the Batobus water taxi to get around, there’s a stop right in front of it.

Of course, this is just an overview of what you’ll find in the 5th arrondissement in Paris. Again, make sure to give yourself enough time to wander up and down the winding streets. Give yourself permission to get lost here — you never know what kind of courtyard or historical building you may end up in front of.

Photo by Robin Ooode on Unsplash

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How Living in Paris Turned Me into a Bike Convert

How Living in Paris Turned Me into a Bike Convert

The Motorcycle

Long, long ago in the early 1980’s I had a car that broke down. As, at the time, I often had to go way out to the suburbs, I wondered how I was going to get out there where the transportation was complicated, to say the least. It was then that a friend suggested I get a motorcycle. At the time, the law was that if you had a valid driver’s license, you could drive a motorcycle up to 125 cc without taking a special exam.

So I took some lessons, bought a second-hand motorcycle, and learned that motorcycling was not just a means of transportation but fun in itself. So next step was to get a license, and to move up to bigger and bigger bikes. My last love was an 800cc BMW twin. I drove it everywhere in Paris and France, on vacation, with motorcycle clubs.

A Car & Public Transportation

And then I got pregnant and had a son. Motorcycling was not the best way to get around with a baby. I joined the millions of Parisians on public transportation and in the most typical American tradition I decided that with a baby I needed a car. My criteria? Small enough to park in Paris, comfortable enough to travel in, and automatic. The managing director’s chauffeur of the company where I was working recommended I get a Peugeot 205, a national favorite at the time. So I followed his advice and have been very happy with the choice.

But parking has always been a headache. Public transportation became my main means of travel in the city. My car was used less and less. I would do my food shopping typically on Friday afternoon, knowing that there would be street parking when I got back as everyone left in their cars for the weekend. I never took the car after 3pm on Sunday to be sure it was parked before everyone got back from their weekend. 

After about 12 years of cat-and-mouse parking, they knocked down a small factory across the street and started to build an apartment building in its stead — with parking spaces! The workers were still putting nails in the sign when I called the builders to inquire about buying a parking space. I was quickly informed that they were not selling parking spaces, but condominiums with the possibility of buying a parking space with it. Within the time of a single breath, I decided to sign for a condo. The smallest in the residence, but still I got a parking space. While a friend remarked that it was a particularly expensive parking space, it turned out to be a good investment.

It has been nice to jump into a car parked just across the street if I did not want to take the metro for an evening outing or go food shopping, or pick up or deliver something cumbersome or heavy. Public transportation remained my main means of transport in the city.

The Paris Mayor and Her Crack-Down on Cars

Then our supposedly ecology-minded mayor (perhaps in cahoots with the automobile industry) created a policy of dividing cars into 5 ecological categories to determine whether or not the car could be driven in Paris. Studies have shown that the most ecological use of a car is to keep it as long as possible until it gives up the ghost. Notwithstanding, the law was based on age, the older the car, the less it could be legally driven in Paris on weekdays or high pollution days. Thus a new, large gas-guzzling diesel-run car was free to be driven in Paris, while a small, less-polluting, gasoline-run car, albeit old, could not. CO2 statistics did not enter into the new law.

But my car ran beautifully, had little mileage, and I did not need a car sufficiently to buy a new one. And, 30-plus years after the original purchase, the baby has got much bigger, the driving in Paris has got more and more difficult (not to mention parking!), and I have needed to cross the “périphérique” less and less; thus my use of a car has dwindled. 

Lucky for me is the loophole in the law whereby after 30 years a car can be declared a collector’s item and can be driven anytime, anywhere. So I picked up the end of France’s red tape and with a good amount of yanking turned the jalopy into a collector’s car

Meanwhile, our mayor has continued on her warpath against gas-powered vehicles (and cars in general) in Paris. Traffic has become horrendous with more and more draconian road policies for cars, thereby creating worse and worse traffic and — as an obvious result — more and more pollution from stagnant cars.

Bicycles in Paris: The Good, the Bad, and the In-Between 

On the other hand, Madame la maire has aggressively been installing bicycle paths. Perhaps she imagines Paris as a little Amsterdam

I had often thought of acquiring a bicycle, but I was too familiar with the hard ride up the Père Lachaise hill which I had been navigating for the past 20 years on the way back from the Friday night then Sunday organized skate tours of Paris. By the end of my roller-blading days, I would skate from bench to bench up the hill with a stop at each bench on the way up to catch my breath.

In a win-win solution, a friend who had moved to the far suburbs had bought an electric bicycle to get to the train station and then around Paris. His very legitimate fear was of having the bicycle stolen when he was away traveling.

The solution? He parked the bike in my inner courtyard garden and it was mine for the taking as long as it was there. So off and on for a year, I became a happy bicycle rider in Paris.

I rode through all the new street works as bicycle paths were slowly constructed, observed the growing traffic jams, and enjoyed viewing Paris above ground. I also became adept at watching out for thoughtless scooters,  pedestrians on their phones, and other bicyclists going through red lights. The upshot of the experience was that I got hooked on bicycling in Paris. So when my friend informed me he was leaving Paris for good for the U.S. and selling the bike that I was beginning to think of as my own, I jumped at the chance to really make it mine.

On a beautiful day, what a pleasure to pedal around Paris, and no worries about hills with an electric motor assist. On the other hand, having put up with rain in Paris for months, the metro is often to be preferred. And yet, if the walk from a station is to be long, and the ride otherwise short, I might just get the rain gear on and face the elements. It is good to have a choice.

With the new and many bicycle lanes, riders are relatively protected from automobile traffic, which is quite comfortable for us. The difficulty comes when cars need to turn right across the bike lane or as bicyclists we have to turn out of the lane and cross traffic. Too, cars tend to try to go through a crossing at the end of a light and we find them sitting on the bike lanes making it difficult to cross or even move into the pedestrian crossing. I have found a particularly dangerous spot at Place Gambetta where cars come careening off the roundabout, shooting toward the pedestrian crossing where they aim to stop short; unfortunately, the bicycle crossing that comes before is more often than not overlooked. These are examples of tricky situations.

Additionally, there are the incoherences of the lanes. For example, as I wheeled around the Place d’Italie, I somehow lost the path in front of the Galaxy shopping center. And there stood the police seemingly waiting to inform me that I had in some way ridden onto a pedestrian area where I could be fined 135€. I, of course, excused myself and explained that I had somehow lost the bicycle lane. They pointed to where it was (not too clearly marked), had me get off and walk the bike, and in parting, suggested that if I was having difficulties I should go to Amsterdam. 

One of the worst lane tracings can be found on the Boulevard des Maréchaux. For a quarter tour of Paris, from Porte de Bagnolet to Cité Universitaire there must be at least 10 crossings from the outer cycling rim to the inner rim. I cannot say how many times I have lost the path only to notice it has meandered off to the other side of the four car lanes and two tram lines. This means a number of riders (myself included) sometimes just stay on one side knowing we will be in the right lane soon enough. On the other hand, we find ourselves facing oncoming bicycles in a narrow single-bicycle lane or oblivious pedestrians.

Then, of course, there is parking. Now that so many Parisians have turned to bicycles it has become difficult to park, sometimes almost as difficult as to park as a car. Having had my bicycle seized by the police for attaching it to a mundane fence, I do not wish to leave it anywhere but in bicycle racks which are not always nearby or with free spaces. On the other hand, a friend always avoids racks as many cyclists pay no attention to other mounts when getting their own bike in or out of the rack, thus damaging nearby bikes. To each their own parking traumatism and parking choice.

But all in all, having learned to deal with the difficulties, I can only appreciate the freedom of bicycling in the city. It is always quicker than walking and often faster than the metro depending on the necessity of changing lines. And with Olympic fever, the metro has become a hassle with many closed stations and fewer trains in accordance with the summer season.

It is interesting to think that when we were kids in the U.S. we could not wait to get our driver’s license, give up the bicycles of childhood, and get a car, one of the first badges of adulthood. Now, at least in Paris, more and more adults are giving up their cars for the simplicity of a bicycle. 

With the city bicycle-renting possibilities (which I have never tried), it is worth giving this above-ground, Paris-friendly means of transportation a shot. Because, when we think about it, viewing the city is why we are here.  

Photo taken in front of the Comédie Française.

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.