The Week Before I Move to France

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I’ve got my visa, a year’s supply of my favorite deodorant, and a one-way ticket to France. The countdown to my departure began when I returned to Texas from France four months ago, but I’m still struggling to fathom how those 120 days are now in the single digits. 

Last year, I worked as an English teaching assistant in this quaint town on the south side of the country. This year, I’m returning to the same program, the same lodging situation, and the same community I grew to love. It’s crazy to think that this time last year, I was preparing to live in a city where I didn’t know a soul! 

Round two of working in France has a lot fewer questions on the outset, or at least the questions have changed form. 

“Where will I live?” has become, “What will it look like to live with different people in the same place?” 

“How will I teach?” has become, “How will I serve my new co-workers and students?”

“Who will my community be?” has become, “How will my relationships grow in the months ahead?”

Now being more accustomed to the different language, culture, and daily rhythms of living abroad, I have noticed that my goals have also moved from the category of surviving to thriving. Last year, I learned how to get around using public transportation and my own two feet. This year, my goal is to trade in my US driver’s license for a French driver’s permit. Last year, I learned what a month’s worth of expenses could look like in France. This year, my goal is to live in awareness of my budget instead of relying on additional savings to pick up my slack. Last year, my goal was to keep my head above water and this year, I want to be a well of reassurance and knowledge for the new language assistants coming to my town from around the world.

So now that I’ve talked through the theoretical, let me share a bit of the practical. Here is my to-do list one week before I (re)move to France. 

  • Fill out as much of the paperwork as possible for my request for CAF lodging assistance
  • Purchase a professional translation of my driver’s license and driving record
  • Send in my rolls of film from this summer to be developed and returned to me digitally 
  • Buy a pair of jeans; mine are wearing out and there is nothing quite like American jeans
  • Finish one of the books I’m reading so I don’t have to travel with it; books weigh more than you think
  • Make a final trip to the pharmacy to stock up on my American medical needs
  • Buy a train ticket from Paris to Lyon
  • Plan my arrival
  • Start packing 

Knowing it will be a minute before I see my friends and family on this side of the world again, the logistics are balanced by the weighty work of being present to my community.  I’ve made plans with friends for our final lunch and dinner dates of 2025. Just the other day, I realized that my mom has never been to my favorite park, which is a 20-minute drive from her home. Naturally, we’ve chosen an evening to go together before I hop the pond. Making time for these shared moments is something I know I won’t regret down the line when being together in the flesh is simply not an option. Prioritizing relationships this month has meant pulling back from work projects and letting go of goals I had for this season stateside, but I’m learning that is okay. Choosing personal well-being over professional security, dare I say, even feels a little French. 

Starting a new chapter inevitably means finishing another, and so in this moment of turning the page, I’m also choosing to take the time to reflect. What have I learned from this time in the States? What am I grateful for? What do I want to take with me? What do I want to leave behind? These questions stand up against the metaphorical and the physical. Remember, packing is still on my to-do list. Though sometimes I wish my mind and heart had no luggage fee or weight limit, the reality is they do. The more I process and let go of here, the lighter I will go into the season that awaits me. And as I preach to my fellow travelers, and often stand in need of a reminder myself, “The lighter you are, the happier you will be.”

Cheers to taking flight and traveling light.

Photo from my last flight over France.

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closed shutters on a Parisian building

Why Everything Closes in France in August

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If you’ve ever tried to do anything administrative in France during the month of August, you’ve probably hit a wall — or a closed door. Or maybe a handwritten note taped to a window that reads, “fermeture annuelle, réouverture le 2 septembre,” or something similar. 

Most shops close down too (with the exception of many places in Paris that cater to tourists), bakers disappear, your doctor and dentist seem to vanish, and entire neighborhoods go quiet. I remember being extremely confused the first summer I moved here. Why does everything close in France in August? I wondered. 

The short answer? Vacation is sacred here. The long answer is tied to French labor laws, cultural values, and a national love of slowing down. What was once very confusing to me makes total sense and has become just one more thing about the French I admire deeply.

The History Behind August Shutdowns in France

The long-standing tradition of closing up shop in August began in the early 20th century when France introduced paid vacation leave for all workers in 1936. At first, it was only two weeks (the unfortunate truth for most Americans à nos jours), but it eventually grew to the five weeks of paid leave the majority of French employees enjoy today.

For the working class, August was the logical time to take that break. School was out, the weather was nice across most of the country, and most factories and workplaces already had reduced activity. It soon became part of the social rhythm in France, where everyone from small business owners to government workers collectively stepped away from their responsibilities and headed out of town.

Even now, many companies shut down entirely for the month. Government offices operate on reduced staff and administrative processes grind to a near halt (good luck renewing your visa in August). Again, this is something I admire so much about the French, and is something that would never happen in the US. When Americans want something done, they want it done yesterday. In France, there’s a better understanding that, actually, we are human beings, and every human being deserves a break. Wild concept, isn’t it?

Where Does Everyone Go in August?

As they should, the French love their summer exodus, and in true French fashion they even have words for it:

  • Les juilletistes: those who vacation in July
  • Les aoûtiens: those who vacation in August

August is more popular, but I also understand why some people prefer to take their vacation in July — there’s something to be said about taking a holiday before everyone else does and a few of the families I used to babysit for leaned much more juilletiste.

Many French families have long-standing vacation traditions, like returning to the same small village year after year, maisons de campagne that have been in the family for generations (surprisingly, unlike in the US, families of nearly all social standings have “country homes,” another thing that initially shocked me), and spending time with the same neighbors who may have also fled the city. For others, it’s a chance to disconnect, travel internationally, or just step away from the daily grind.

So, What Actually Closes in August?

My American brain initially really could not comprehend the idea of the majority of businesses closing in August. But, how are they okay with nothing getting done for an entire month?! I wondered constantly. Growing up in a capitalist country where the bottom line is the most important thing, this cultural norm seemed impossible. 

But, folks… it is certainly possible and the country doesn’t fall apart at the seams every summer. The real answer to what actually closes is: more than you think, but technically, not everything. 

Here’s what you can expect to be closed:

  • Independent boulangeries and patisseries
  • Pharmacies (unless it’s their turn to be the “pharmacie de garde,” or an emergency pharmacy that’s required to stay open)
  • Family-run restaurants and cafés
  • Doctors, dentists, and specialists
  • Small boutiques and bookstores
  • Many post offices, banks, and local government buildings

Again, this isn’t always the case in Paris, where tourists have forced the city to Americanize in many ways. But, in smaller towns and residential areas in larger cities, it’s not unusual to find entire streets shut down.

Here’s what tends to stay open:

  • Large supermarkets like Carrefour, Monoprix, and Franprix
  • Chain restaurants and fast food restaurants
  • Tourist attractions, museums, and monuments
  • Major transportation hubs

What This Means for Daily Life

August in France definitely requires some adjustment, but once you hop on the vacances train you’ll see it’s not that complicated. Make a note to check your favorite store windows for handwritten closure signs. Refill any necessary prescriptions early and make doctor’s appointments well in advance (or simply wait for September). And, by all means, avoid anything involving French bureaucracy until la rentrée, for your own mental sanity. 

I often learned this the hard way, but once I did, I got used to it and the August closures became another part of my normal everyday French life.

These closures are a direct reflection of how the French think about time, work, and rest. Unlike many Anglophone cultures, where rest is earned through burnout, the French see vacation as a right, not a reward. And it’s not just a week or a long weekend, it’s a true break.

What’s more, there’s no guilt attached to this rest. No pressure to stay plugged in, and certainly no Slack messages coming through. No, “I’m technically on vacation, but feel free to reach out.” A French person would never say something like that, and I really respect them for it.

As such, TAIP will also be taking our summer holidays for the rest of the month of August. We’ll resume posting regularly after la rentrée — see you all on the other side 😉

Photo by Eric Prouzet on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

a woman standing in front of a colorful flower shop in Paris

Living in France Changed my Relationship with Time

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To be honest, I never really thought much about my relationship with time. Until I moved to France and realized just how differently they approach it in terms of, well, almost everything.

Things that have become normalized in the US, like eating lunch at your desk, sandwich in one hand, typing away with the other, working multiple jobs to make sure I had some cash to enjoy the little time off I had, squeezing in dinner before a workout, falling into bed at night from pure exhaustion… the list could go on and on. 

The addiction to the hustle and “being busy” is very real in the States. Not to say I didn’t have to hustle a little to live in France (in fact, it’s how I met Stephen originally), there’s no denying that life moves at a much faster pace for the average American compared to the average French person.

When I moved to France, suddenly I was living in a country where “urgent” rarely means what you think it does, where many shops close for lunch, and where a vacation is treated as sacred, not optional. My busy American brain didn’t know what to do with this at first, but I got used to it very quickly, and ultimately learned to absolutely adore it.

This slower pace of life is something Stephen and I talk a lot about on our YouTube channel — it seems to come up time and time again. While some aspects certainly took getting used to, we both agree how refreshing it was to have more time and space in our lives… without feeling guilty about it.

Slowing Down, Whether You Want To or Not

One of my very first culture shocks was the fact that most shops and stores are closed on Sundays, even in a massive city like Paris. Now, that has changed a bit, and nowadays you’ll be able to find at least a grocery store or two open. But it’s nothing like in the US, where things seem to be open 24/7, or at least seven days a week.

In Paris, there aren’t many shops that close for lunch, but in smaller places (even Bordeaux, which is still a pretty major city for France standards), you’ll be hard pressed to find a pharmacy or boutique open from noon to 2pm. 

Not to mention the whole country seemingly shutting down for the entire month of August. I remember being in a panic one fateful summer, when I was waiting for a very important piece of administrative documentation needed for an upcoming student visa I had to apply for. The offices at the school were closed promptly at 4pm on July 31 and I unfortunately did not have the forethought to go pick up my paperwork before then. I had my visa appointment in mid-August and quickly began to panic.

Shockingly, when I explained the issue back at the Boston consulate, they totally understood and ended up issuing my visa anyway, thanks to a few other key pieces of paperwork I did manage to get my hands on. I do NOT recommend trying to do the same, but it just goes to show that not being able to get anything administrative done in August is a cultural and accepted norm in France.

My shift toward this new concept of time didn’t happen overnight and it was extremely frustrating at first. But slowly, I got used to it and even began to lean into it myself.

Learning to ‘Be’ in a Culture That Values ‘Being’

Everything takes more time in France and they like it that way. A two-hour dinner isn’t a luxury, it’s normal. Even average, weekday dinners at my in-laws are often at least one hour long. They do not rush through meals, and it’s something I personally love about the culture.

Weekends are for friends, relaxing, long walks, and markets. Sundays are for staying at home. And five weeks of paid vacation isn’t a perk or “benefit,” it’s your right. Coffee dates aren’t 20-30 minutes long, they often span over several hours and may even turn into a meal if you time it right. It’s better to take the scenic route. It’s okay to just… sit.

There’s less competition in France too, which I think influences this attitude of “it’s okay to take your time.” I don’t think all Americans are competitive in nature, but it’s so ingrained in our culture that we don’t see the little ways it affects our everyday lives. It’s also worth noting that France is not a capitalist country. Now, if you talk to most French people, they’ll say that this is changing (no thanks to American influence), but it still is nothing compared to the consumerism-obsessed États-Unis.

As someone who grew up in the US, it’s so, so refreshing.

Now that my French husband and I are back in the States (for now), I won’t lie: it’s been difficult to keep the slow-paced French lifestyle here. There are just so many more pressures. Pressures to earn more because the cost of living, at least in our situation, is four times what it cost us to live in Paris. Pressures to have the latest and greatest car/gadget/home/clothing/electronic/etc. Pressures to keep up with everyone else around us.

But, ultimately, I am so glad to be back here with my husband because he often reminds me to slow down and lean back into the French way of life. We’re slowly but surely creating our own little pocket of France in our little beach house on the East Coast. And constantly reminding ourselves: ‘more’ doesn’t always mean happier. Because it often doesn’t.

Photo by Eliott Goutard on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

a boat on the seine river in Paris at sunset

Finally Sharing Why I Left Paris

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I have been, understandably, hesitant to share the story of why I left Paris here on TAIP.  As the owner of a website with a title that suggests I am indeed an American living in Paris, it felt like a major bomb to drop on what has been not only a creative outlet for me, but a place to help other Americans interested in following their dreams of moving abroad. It felt scary, dangerous even. What if no one wanted to read anymore once they found out I wasn’t actually living in France?

I’ve also been dealing with feelings of shame ever since the decision to leave was made. While I love the expat community in Paris, most of that shame was deeply tied to an interesting phenomenon amongst that particular group. Expats who have lived in the city for 10, 15, 20, or even 30 years wear their time spent like a badge of honor. I’ve been here forever and I’m never going back, the badge says. I write this as someone who was proud of her own, 9.5-year-long badge. I thought I was going to be someone who “never left,” who felt so comfortable in her new life in France that thoughts of going back to the States would never even dream of entering her ether. I was the girl who moved to Paris. And stayed.

Then the pandemic happened. And then I got married. And then I realized how quickly my parents were aging and even if I committed to going “home” once a year for the rest of my life, it would mean only seeing them 10 or 15 more times for the rest of my life. They wouldn’t be able to get to know my yet-to-be-born children or my very-much-alive new husband.

The idea of leaving floated into my mind slowly and quietly. It decided to camp out every time I felt different or like the étrangère that I was. It set up house with a foundation when I found out my dad was sick. And it battened down the hatches every time I felt lonely, misunderstood, and when I came to the realization that while I no longer felt American, I knew I wasn’t fully French either.

Then, my husband (who is French) started dreaming of his own life abroad. As his wife, I could give him that gift, if he really wanted it. We started daydreaming about what it would be like to move to idyllic southern Rhode Island, where I was born and raised and where my family still lives. Wouldn’t it be nice to go to the beach whenever we wanted, we wondered. To breathe fresh air, to watch my nieces grow up, see my childhood friends become mothers, and finally, finally be able to live in a spacious home without having to provide the dreaded dossier to do so.

I can’t remember now a specific conversation in which we said, “we’re doing this,” but I do remember getting connected with an immigration lawyer in the US through a friend of mine. At this point, I was so well-versed in how to move to France, but I had no clue how to move to the US as a foreigner. I remember having that first initial call with the lawyer, getting excited about our options, and booking a one-way flight almost immediately after. I guess that was the defining moment. “Yes, we’re actually doing this.”

We also ultimately knew that after Covid, we wanted everyone in our little family to have the same passport. I still didn’t have French nationality, but we knew that would be relatively painless, thanks to all of the years I had lived in France, having a master’s degree from a French uni, and the real golden ticket: being married to a French person. We also knew that getting Pierre a green card and then American nationality would likely be a bit painful. Might as well do the more difficult step first, right?

And so we packed up our apartment in Montmartre and moved in with my in-laws (again) for the last month we were to spend in France. We traveled around the country to say goodbye to Pierre’s family and then came back to Paris for a few weeks to celebrate with friends. We ended up having two farewell parties because one wasn’t enough. As our departure date grew closer, the more real it began to feel. Was I actually doing this? Was I actually leaving this dream life of mine that I built completely on my own, brick by brick?

Panicking, I told everyone the move back WASN’T PERMANENT, NO, DON’T WORRY, I’LL BE BACK BEFORE YOU KNOW IT! Those feelings of shame inadvertently caused me to downplay the move, act as if it were just a duty I was called to do. The mixture of emotions I experienced was incredible. One minute, I was so excited to be able to call my mom whenever I wanted to; the next, I wanted to scream that I felt like everything I had worked for was being taken from me.

I also knew that in order for Pierre and I to pursue this life we had been talking about pretty much since we met, we had to live in the US for at least a few years. We wanted to split our time between the two countries, as evenly as possible. To do that we both needed double nationality. And that required moving back for some time, dream life in Paris or not.

Now that there are three years between me and that decision, three years between a girl full of shame for hiding a part inside her that was aching to go home, three years between feeling like the world I had built was crashing down all around me, three years between feeling like a failure because I didn’t “have the guts” to stay, I’m finally talking about what it felt like to leave said dream life.

I’m happy to say that things feel so much less final than they did back then. As we get closer and closer to being able to apply for Pierre’s nationality — and strangely, being able to apply for my French nationality from the US — I’m realizing that we’re getting closer and closer to the original dream: spending half the year in France and the other half in the States. We can almost taste it, and it’s made the pain I felt leaving France in 2022 not seem as painful.

I’ll never be the girl who decided to leave everything behind for a brand new life, no matter the cost, again because that girl doesn’t exist anymore. But, she wouldn’t have existed even if I had decided to stay in France and never come back to the US again. That girl was my 23-year-old self, and I have now become me, my almost-34-year-old self. And that’s okay. Change is okay. Letting go of that brave, fearless girl is okay. Because who I am now is brave in ways that 23-year-old Molli would never believe. And I have that 11-years-in-the-past me to thank for a lot of that bravery.

So, dear readers, as I embark on this new chapter, I’d love to take you along with me. TAIP will always be a part of my life because France will always be a part of my life. I can’t wait to share all about getting my French nationality (from the US… crazy), deciding where to live when we do go back to France, and how to navigate a life truly split between two countries. We will of course continue to publish articles on visas and all of that good stuff, as something else that will always be a part of my life? A desire to help others pursue their hopes and dreams.

Thank you for following along until this point, and I’m so excited for what’s in store.

If you prefer video, I’m releasing a four-part series on why I left Paris over on our YouTube channel, taip on tape. Be sure to subscribe so you don’t miss a thing 🙂

Photo by Joe deSousa on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team. 

a small table and chairs in front of a stone building covered in vines

Living the French Life, Wherever You Are

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Something that kept me in France for nearly a decade was my appreciation for the French way of life. There’s no denying that it’s slower and more intentional than the fast-paced ambiance you find in the US. I like to think of myself as an intentional type of person, so it’s not that surprising that I felt so at home there.

Maybe that’s one of the things that brought you to France and ultimately kept you there like me, or perhaps you’ve only ever visited, but are itching to go back and make a real life for yourself there. Either way, you’ll want to get to know Jane Dieu. 

Jane is a UK-born artist and YouTube content creator living in the French countryside with her family. Her channel, Living Well in France, is dedicated to helping people bring more French beauty into their everyday lives. She recently interviewed Stephen and I on her channel, and as soon as we started chatting, I knew her message would resonate with all of you, dear TAIP readers. Especially the many retirees in our audience who are thinking deeply about how they want their next chapter to feel.

Because while yes, I want to encourage everyone of you to live in France, Jane’s philosophy isn’t just about moving there. She urges that you can indeed live like the French wherever you are in the world, and I can’t help but agree.

Life as an Artist in France

Jane lives in a quiet part of France and splits her time between painting and making videos that share what it’s really like to adopt a French lifestyle. Her artwork features detailed renderings of boats and seascapes, inspired by her time working in luxury yacht marketing. She says that during these years she “developed a passion for the beauty and craftsmanship of these vessels” and has since created some very impressive works.

In a handful of her videos, she invites viewers into her studio to watch her paint, talk through creative routines, and share what it’s like to live as an artist in a country and culture that deeply values beauty and craft.

It’s a side of French life reminiscent of what we sometimes read about when exploring the history of artists who made their home there — Van Gogh, Picasso, Monet, and many other greats, to name a few. There’s a reason why artists of all shapes and sizes (including myself) flock to France. The reverence for art, conversation, and the idea that life isn’t meant to be rushed through, but enjoyed, is something that I personally can’t get enough of. And it seems Jane feels the same.

Why the French Lifestyle Resonates

You’ll all remember I moved to France thinking I’d only stay a year, and ended up living there for nearly a decade. When I reflect on why, it was the culture that kept me. The way people make time for themselves and each other. The ritual of long, shared meals. The sense that life is happening right now, and it’s meant to be appreciated in the moment instead of worrying about the next thing on my to-do list.

Jane talks about these same values on her channel: how the French prioritize connection, how they prepare simple but beautiful meals, how they stay active in ways that feel joyful, not punishing. And for retirees, especially, many of whom have already spent years in busy, career-focused environments. This outlook on life can feel incredibly appealing. And incredibly different from what we experience in the US.

Living Like the French Wherever You Are

Jane filled me in that she is working on an online course full of guidance on how to adopt a more French lifestyle without having to pack up and move across the world (unless you want to do that… because you all know I’m all for it). Topics will include everything from learning to enjoy cooking again to rediscovering the art of conversation, choosing a form of movement you actually love, and finding beauty in everyday life.

She also shared that she is developing a second course focused on integrating into French culture, which would be ideal for those planning a move, or folks who are already in France and want to feel more comfortable in their new home abroad. 

I know I personally often struggled with an odd feeling of otherness — like I was almost on the outside of French culture looking in, even after months or years in there (I even spoke about this in a recent taip on tape YouTube episode). Jane’s course will offer a way in, in what promises to be a very thoughtful way.

But, I have to say, what I love most about Jane’s work is that it aligns so closely with what I — and what TAIP — believe in. That French culture has something to teach us, whether we live there full-time or not. That our quality of life improves when we slow down, talk more, and surround ourselves with beautiful things. That aging can be graceful, food can be simple, and joy should come naturally instead of being forced.

You can find Jane’s channel here, and I highly recommend subscribing, especially if you’re someone who’s craving a little more beauty, more ease, and more, well, joie de vivre. She publishes thoughtful videos on everything from painting to aging well, and her recent conversation with Stephen is now live there as well, plus some additional videos with me that will be coming out soon.

Whether you’re already living in France, planning your move, or just want some advice on how to slow down and appreciate life, I know you’ll enjoy it.

Photo by V2F on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

overhead: rows of french books

If You Want to Learn French Before Moving to France, Start Here

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Moving to France requires a certain level of organization, determination, and a willingness to embrace the piles of paperwork you’re required to show at the prefecture once a year (or less, if you’re lucky). But, one thing a lot of hopeful expats forget to do is something that has the power to improve your entire France experience: learn the language. Or at least try to.

It’s the exact opposite of what I did when I moved to France, and I’ve made it somewhat of my mission to encourage others not to be like me. 

Listen, you don’t need to be fluent. You don’t need to know how to conjugate the plus-que-parfait, or even know what that is (spoiler, I do not). But you will have a much better chance of actually interacting with and becoming friends with French people if you can carry on a simple conversation.

Not being able to order a coffee, ask a question in a grocery store, or communicate easily with your doctor will make your life difficult. Yes, it is manageable, and plenty of expats (in Paris in particular) get by without speaking much French. But learning the language will give you a much more fulfilling — and actually French — life.

So, as I embark on my mission of yes-you-should-learn-French-before-moving-to-France, I was thrilled to sit down with Manon, a French YouTuber and language teacher who recently interviewed Stephen and I for her channel.

Manon is the founder of Ohlala French Course and a fluent English speaker who understands the struggle of learning a second language from scratch. One of her programs, French Coffee, is one of the most helpful resources I’ve come across for people who are planning to move to France. Or, those who just want to feel more confident speaking French before they arrive for a trip.

It’s exactly what I wish I had done before I moved to Paris.

The Real Secret to Learning French

Is to speak it. Often. With native French speakers. 

Workbooks, podcasts, grammar guides, and apps like Duolingo can be helpful, but if you’re not speaking French with other people who speak French, you miss the most important piece of the puzzle. If you haven’t noticed it yet, it will become very obvious the moment you get to France. When you aren’t used to practicing, you’ll likely freeze up, forget vocabulary, and may not understand all of the “familiarity” native French speakers use that they don’t teach you in school.

Not knowing the language — or relying too heavily on English — can cause anxiety over phone calls, appointments, going shopping, or even running into your neighbor. I can’t tell you the number of times I have cried over a phone call that went badly because I couldn’t communicate.

On the flip side, when you do take the time to learn and practice, you’ll be able to have wonderful conversations, make new friends, and gain access to a side of France that doesn’t exist when you’re stuck behind a language barrier.

As we say often here at TAIP, it’s all about being curious and willing to try.

French Coffee for Real Conversations and Progress

But Molli, I don’t live in France yet, so how am I supposed to find people to practice French with?

This is exactly where French Coffee comes in. Manon created this weekly (!!) program to give French learners a chance actually to speak. It’s structured like a small, friendly coffee chat, except you get to hone your French skills with peers of the same level, with a native French-speaking teacher there to guide the conversation if needed.

When I asked Manon how she would describe it, she told me it’s “perfect for those who already understand French well, but can’t yet speak with confidence. It’s a warm, well-structured space, and really helps with oral expression.”

Each session is held online and is organized by level, so you’ll never feel like you can’t keep up. You can talk about real-life topics with people who have the same level of French as you do in a format that feels casual, cozy, and… dare I say… fun? The groups are small enough that you’ll get plenty of time to speak too.

French coffee isn’t like sitting through a lecture at school, or awkwardly repeating vocab into an app (been there). It’s real conversation practice that will help build your confidence so you feel comfortable enough to speak up once you’re out in the real, French-speaking world.

Manon’s entire platform Ohlala French Course is full of thoughtful resources that range in time commitment and price. French Coffee is a great place to start if you’re moving to France anytime soon.

If you can’t communicate with the people around you, you’ll likely feel isolated and lonely. Moving abroad is already an isolating and lonely experience, so if you can do something to make it feel a little less lonesome, wouldn’t you?

Photo by The Now Time on Unsplash

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a pond in giverny France with water lilies and tress

Best Day Trips from Paris for Summer 2025

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This may be an unpopular opinion, but I love Paris in the summer. Spring gets all the credit in books, poetry, and songs, but Paris in the summertime holds such a special place in my heart. 

Is it hot? Yes. Is it kind of miserable in the métro and on the bus? Of course. But, if you commit to walking wherever you can, have a can of spray mist for face on hand, and some tissues to wipe the sweat off your upper lip (or is that just me?), it can be really enjoyable.

Now, that’s not to say I blame the Parisians who choose to leave every August — I was one of them at one time. Visitors who dislike the heat or have visited Paris before are also likely in need of some ideas for places to go and things to see. Or, maybe a few of you reading are local expats with friends in town, hoping to show them more than just the capital.

Luckily, one of the best things about Paris is how easy it is to escape from, even if just for the day. From art and history to forested trails or a fun champagne tasting, I tailored this guide to the best day trips from Paris for summer travelers looking for a quick and manageable but memorable getaway.

I’ve separated the list into “true” day trips that are under two hours away from Paris and others that are a bit further, but definitely worth the extra effort if you’re up for an early start.

True Day Trips from Paris (under 2 Hours)

Giverny to see Monet’s Gardens

This is one of my most-visited day trips. Just over one hour away, Giverny is the perfect summer day trip from Paris for art lovers and gardening enthusiasts. The world-famous water lilies, Japanese bridge, and Monet’s charming little house really do come to life between late spring and mid-July if you can get there.

Trains run regularly from Gare Saint-Lazare to Vernon, where you’ll find an easy shuttle to the gardens.

Fontainebleau to visit the chateau and forest

If you’ve seen Versailles already, visit Fontainebleau instead. The castle and grounds are often overshadowed by its more-famous counterpart, but I actually prefer it — especially in the busy summer months.

Fontainebleau is never as crowded, and the surrounding forest is shaded and breezy in the summer heat. It’s a quick train ride from Gare de Lyon, and the town is very walkable and relaxed. Perfect for a quiet day of exploring.

Provins to step back into medieval times

My husband and I love this one — I have so many good memories from a long weekend we took there once to celebrate an anniversary. It’s also quiet and relaxed, but the medieval town really comes alive in the summer with regular festivals, falconry shows (!!), and craft fairs.

Only 90 minutes from Paris by train, it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site that has somehow maintained its “hidden gem” vibe. Be sure to give yourself enough time to wander around and soak in the medieval architecture.

Reims to sip on authentic champagne

If your idea of the perfect summer afternoon involves sipping cold champagne in a cellar followed by lunch in the sun, we can be friends. And we can definitely take a day trip to Reims together to do just that.

Just 45 minutes by TGV, you can tour famous houses like Tittinger or Veuve Clicquot, or you can head to my favorite, Pommery. Head to the cathedral next, and you can be back in Paris before dinner.

Chartres to admire the cathedral and a light show

Chartres is best known for its cathedral — it boasts incredible stained glass windows and Gothic architecture — but during the summer months, you’ll be treated to a stunning son et lumière (sound and light) show that gets projected on its façade each night.

During the day? You can enjoy a riverside picnic, a cool drink in a quiet café, or simply wander around and soak up the small French town charm, just over an hour away by train.

Auvers-sur-Oise to see where Van Gogh lived

So many famous artists lived in France at some point, and Vincent Van Gogh is one of them. He lived out the last few months of his life in Auvres-sur-Oise, and the area clearly inspired his final paintings.

The peaceful village is less than an hour away from Paris, where you can visit his final resting place, tour the Auberge Ravoux (the inn he lived and ate in), and wander the countryside that clearly captured his imagination.

Versailles, but in the summer

Just because I like Fontainebleau doesn’t mean I’m skipping Versailles, another one of my favorites, especially when it’s warm enough to fully explore the gardens and grounds. Choose your day wisely as it’s not smart to go during a canicule (heat wave), but there are plenty of shaded spots to take breaks throughout the day. 

Rent a bike to explore with ease, lie out a picnic in the grass, or admire the musical fountains. You could even rent a rowboat — I’ve done it a few times and it was so fun (and offered a great photo op). It’s only a 45-minute RER ride from central Paris, too.

Longer Day Trips from Paris (if You’re Motivated)

Étretat for some coastal cliffs and sea air

If you’re hoping to trade the Seine for the sea, Étretat in Normandy boasts white chalk cliffs and turquoise water that makes it worth the 2.5-hour trek. This one is actually still on my list! I can’t wait to visit one day, and have heard amazing things about the cliff-side hiking trails and pebble beaches.

You’ll need to take a train to Le Havre and then a shuttle or taxi to get all the way there, but the cool breeze on a hot summer day makes the effort well worth it.

Deauville for something a little more glamorous

One of the families I used to nanny for had a second home in Deauville and I never really understood just how chic the little town is until they shared photos of said home. It reminded me of the seaside town I lived in before moving to France — Newport, Rhode Island. If you know, you know that Deauville has the same vibe. Almost like vintage Riviera vibes.

Only two hours from Paris and teeming with striped umbrellas, seafood restaurants, and a well-known boardwalk to stroll along, Deauville also hosts summer festivals and horse races. If you want to get in touch with your inner European prepster, head here.

Tips for Summer Travel from Paris

  • Book trains ahead for the best prices and seat options, especially on weekends. Don’t sleep on the OUIGO TGV!
  • Remember to pack sunscreen, refillable water bottles, and comfortable walking shoes. Choose stylish ones if you don’t want to scream, I’m an American tourist.
  • Try to leave early to maximize your time. Many towns come alive before lunch, but don’t forget the summer daylight lingers late in France — some nights in late June and early July, the sun doesn’t go down until after 9pm.

Whether you want to explore nature, learn about the history of France, or sample some of its world-famous champagne, these day trips from Paris are the best way to enjoy summer in France.

Did I miss anything?

Photo by Gregoire Baron on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team. 

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BlaBlaCar: a Nomad’s Best Friend

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When I first used BlaBlaCar in 2024, I knew I was taking my chances: getting in a complete stranger’s car for a three-and-a-half-hour drive through the French countryside, with the better part of my belongings. It was stressful enough moving to a foreign country, and I accepted that trusting strangers along the way was going to be a beautiful, necessary part of the process. What would have been an expensive, long, and indirect train route to my destination became a few hours’ drive thanks to this ride-sharing app (and the generous soul who shared their trip for the exact day and time I was hoping to travel). 

What is BlaBlaCar?

Think of it like Uber or Lyft in reverse. Instead of ordering a driver to take you from point A to point B, BlaBlaCar connects drivers already planning to be on the road with potential passengers. Every day people can post a route they plan to take, at a certain time, to a certain place, and offer empty space in their car to passengers who want to join them for a small fee. This fee helps compensate the cost of gas and tolls, allowing drivers to minimize or eradicate traveling costs while simultaneously helping people who don’t have a vehicle to travel with convince and efficiency. This is carpooling on a whole new level. 

Is it Safe?

In my personal experience, yes. There are a few features that help ensure the safety of drivers and passengers alike. Users can verify themselves with a form of ID and choose only to interact with users who have done likewise. Women can also choose to only ride with women drivers, men with men, etc.  

I’ve never felt unsafe during a trip using BlaBlaCar. However, I know someone who has. They reported the incident, and BlaBlaCar was quick to not just apologize, but promptly remove the driver from their system. The app’s active response time reassured my confidence in the service they provide. This is the only negative experience I have heard of among the many people I know who use the app. 

You can get a sense of someone’s character based on their recent reviews (left by both drivers and passengers). Preferences can also be displayed by users who prefer not to drive in a smoking environment or travel with pets. Most importantly, you can see a driver’s dependability in how often (if ever) they’ve canceled a trip. 

Ride-Sharing on the Rise

The ride-sharing market size in France is estimated at $2.64 billion in 2025, and is expected to reach $4.20 billion by 2030, according to a study by Mordor Intelligence. Cultural environmental concerns and governmental pricing regulations have kept prices down and users active. The practical and environmental benefits of ride-sharing are evident. BlaBlaCar is present in many European countries and has since expanded into the international bus and local daily commuting scene.

Tips from a Pro

After just a few months of using the app, BlaBlaCar bumped my level of experience from “beginner” to “expert.” To be fair, I had traveled a considerable distance using their service and had a number of 5-star reviews.

To use BlaBlaCar in France, I’d recommend having a minimum of A2 level French. This would make practical directions clearer and navigating cultural differences smoother. However, like anything in France, the better your understanding of the language, the better your experience will be. When drivers have seen that I am a foreigner, they often express interest in my journey and have given me a generous welcome. 

Drives are often posted no more than a week or two in advance of the travel date and can go up as late as a few days before. I’d advise starting to search for a route no more than two weeks in advance and booking the most suitable option no later than 3 days before you are looking to travel. Good spots do go quick, so if you see something that works well for you, don’t hesitate to claim the space. However, I have broken my own advice with success, occasionally booking a drive only 24 hours beforehand in a pinch. 

If you are planning to travel with more than a personal item, it is always good to inform the driver of your luggage situation in your first request to join the drive. This way, if they don’t have space for your bags, they can refuse the request, and you won’t be charged for a ride you can’t take. I’ve never been refused a ride due to my bags, but when I am traveling less light, I keep an eye on the size of the car the person is driving. In my experience, even when someone has shown up unexpectedly loaded down, I’ve seen many drivers and co-passengers handle these situations with grace.

Should I Really Try This?

Like any form of transportation, ride-sharing offers a number of benefits, not without risks. Though I’ve never had a ride canceled on me, it is possible. Like any drive, a ride is also susceptible to traffic and road conditions. Travelers with tight timetables may opt for trains to minimize this risk. However, I’ve never seen BlaBlaCar drivers strike, and if your travel day is on a suspected SNCF strike day, you may want to consider opting for a ride-share with this in mind.

Have you used BlaBlaCar or another ride-sharing service in France? Leave us a comment and share your experience! 

Photo by Zhu Yunxiao on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team. 

French Tax Office Rules Against Remote Work

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In the United States, when there is ambiguity about a tax law, if enough accountants and people ask about, the IRS will give guidance which then means people will have to, at least from that time forward, act accordingly. For example, when crypto came into its own some years ago, the IRS gave guidance for how to deal with it. That guidance is publicly listed on an official government website so everyone knows.

Just a few days ago, Emma Pearson of The Local wrote a very helpful article sharing new guidance on remote working in France. While I am unclear as to why the French Tax office would choose to “exclusively clarify to The Local” a rather important tax rule, instead of publishing and publicizing it themselves on a government website, we are grateful for Emma’s work regardless, as the guidance is clear.

This is the key quote:

“The French tax authorities (DGFiP) consider that work is carried out in France when it is physically performed from French territory, regardless of the employer or location of the clients. So if you’re an employee or freelancer working for a company based abroad, but physically carrying out your tasks from France, this constitutes work carried out in France for tax purposes.”

Our position at TAIP for many years has been that since we have guided many people through successful visa applications in which a letter from employers stating that the applicant was remote working, that as far as immigration authorities are concerned, remote work in France is legal. That is still our position. The ruling of the tax authorities cannot overrule another equivalent (or possibly higher) department of the government: immigration. A ruling or clarification would still need to come from there.

However, this clarification from the tax authorities makes such visa applications now impractical, as once you get here, the tax authorities play an oversized role in your ability to stay in France. Various attestations, including the P-237 which I had to submit for my French citizenship application, all need to come from them and you want to be in their good graces. You couldn’t be in their good graces in the face of this new clarification.

Practical Effects

What does this mean for you? Here are some scenarios we have considered as of today, when we are officially amending our advice on visitor visa applications:

Current Visitor Working Remotely

Our advice is for you to transition to a Profession Libérale visa, freelancing in the field you already work in. This may be straightforward in some fields. For example, if you are a bookkeeper, you could simply set up a French bookkeeping practice with this visa, and your now-employer could then transition to using a foreign contractor. On the American side, this will be relatively painless, as they don’t have to enter the French labor market. They are simply hiring a foreign freelancer. The tax implications are on the freelancer. You can start working on the paperwork now (we have courses and consultations to assist), and then when renewal comes, you can simply apply for a “change of status” and present your application then.

Hopeful Visitor Who Wanted to Work Remotely

As we noted above, this door is now officially barred so you’ll have to consider Passeport Talent or Profession Libérale as alternatives, and our website is full of advice on both.

Person Who Decides to “Risk It For the Biscuit”

Okay, so you’ve done your own French taxes for years, and you’ve correctly reported your foreign-sourced income. There’s no real way for the tax authorities to know you work remotely, as we’ve always noted (there are no tax authority digital police roaming around, no matter what the Karens say…or believe!). But your long-term future in France doesn’t offer solid possibilities. To get a ten-year card you will need to prove financial anchorage in France, which you can’t do with mostly (or entirely) foreign-sourced income (N.B.: we have seen exceptions to this principle made for retirees). The bar is even higher for citizenship. So, you can potentially get away with this indefinitely, but you’ll be stuck with only ever getting one-year cards forever. Not a pleasant prospect.

Reflections

Other nations like Croatia and Spain have created much more progressive visas in which immigration and the tax authorities work together, so there could never have been any ambiguity about visas because one department considered remote working legal and the other illegal. That’s neither good nor bad, as every country has a right to run itself as it sees fit, but it’s unfortunate for those who would like to live in France but don’t wish to start a business, get into a relationship with a French person, or have the particular set of skills that would lead a French company to pay a one-time bounty + a percentage of every paycheck indefinitely just to hire you when they could hire a European. This ruling from the tax authorities excludes many people from France who would otherwise have come to the country, paid into the economy, possibly learned French, and made friends (and maybe found a spouse).

In a time of global uncertainty, such a stance cannot be considered welcoming from a country that prides itself on hospitality and showcasing its treasures. And why the tax authorities have chosen to effectively speak for French immigration, I’ll never know. However, it’s not our duty to like official rulings, but to comply with them and advise our clients to do so, as we always have here on TAIP.

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

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What No One Tells You About Finding an Apartment in Paris

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We often talk about the lengthy and sometimes complicated process of applying for a visa to live in France, what it’s like to move away from friends and family, and better ways to learn French. But, something we’ve discussed only a handful of times is perhaps one of the most important — and potentially most frustrating — parts of moving to France: finding an apartment in Paris.

The good news is that it’s not just you. Apartment hunting in Paris really is that hard. 

Thinking about all of this, a story comes to mind. Stephen and I have worked together on so many different things, from walking tours and picnics to Airbnb and beyond. One of those random projects and gigs included showing apartments in Paris together. He had some contacts with people who wanted someone trustworthy to actually show places to potential tenants and serve as an initial judge of whether said tenants would make a good fit.

He gave me RDV on rue Jacob in the 6th arrondissement — coincidentally right around the corner from where I lived as a student during my semester abroad and one of my favorite areas to walk around to this day. I was excited to go back to my old haunts and earn a little extra cash from helping him out.

I rounded the corner of the rue Bonaparte and saw a massive line of people, seemingly waiting to enter the Ladurée boutique. I kept walking towards the address I wrote down, and noticed that the line snaked up the street in the exact same direction I was going. Weird, I thought — but chalked it up to it being a busy part of town. Imagine my surprise when I saw the line of people waiting outside the address that Stephen told me to meet him at.

I skirted around them and headed up the stairs — I knocked on a door that was left slightly ajar and told Stephen about the line. He said he wasn’t surprised, there was a lot of interest. When all was said and done, we showed the place to more than 40 people.

So, why am I telling you this? Because this little walk down memory lane is a perfect example of how competitive the real estate market is in Paris, even for rentals. Now, that’s not to say it’s impossible. I’ve never been homeless in Paris, but I have had to shift my expectations since living there. 

And today, I’m sharing everything I’ve learned along the way so you don’t make the same mistakes I did.

Know What You’re Really Getting Into

As I’ve alluded to in the form of my story above, finding an apartment in Paris is nothing like what you may be used to in the US, or even elsewhere in Europe. Things move a lot more slowly, and it’s very competitive.

Many listings are already taken by the time you send your first message, and the best places are often only available if you know someone. You might tour an apartment, think it went great, and never hear from the landlord again (been there). As a note, French landlords can be extremely picky, especially with foreigners and expats. There’s a fear that you’ll just “leave the country” and never pay your rent. In a way, I get it.

Some also want proof that you already live in Paris and pay your current rent on time before they’ll rent to you. Like so many other French administrative processes (like getting a bank account or cell phone, though those are much easier nowadays), you basically need an apartment to get an apartment. 

Another big surprise? An unfurnished apartment likely won’t even have kitchen appliances (yes, not even a stove), and also means committing to a three-year lease, minimum. 

Decide Where (and How) You Want to Live

As we’ve noted in our Paris neighborhood guide series and in a recent YouTube episode, every arrondissement is different, boasting its own unique charm, vibe, lifestyle — and budget. So, before you really start your hunt, it’s important to have a general idea of where in the city you’d like to live and what kind of housing would work best for you.

Here are just some of the options:

  • With roommates (often called a ‘flatshare’ or colocation in French)
  • A small studio apartment (usually under 20m² or 215 square feet)
  • A chambre de bonne (tiny top-floor former maid’s quarters with shared bathrooms)
  • A traditional apartment (if you’ve got the budget/dossier for it)

You could also do what Stephen did for his most recent apartment. He couldn’t find anything, so he went to Airbnb to see if a host would be willing to rent to him more long-term. He met them for a coffee, talked things through, saw the apartment in person, and signed the lease. It’s an excellent example of how, sometimes, you need to be willing to be scrappy to snag the Parisian apartment of your dreams.

Now, as mentioned, finding an apartment in Paris isn’t always easy, so you also need to be prepared to take what you can get. I don’t mean you should settle for a shack in the middle of nowhere, but if you can’t find what you’re looking for in, say, the 5th arrondissement, be willing to look in, say, the 19th.

The All-Important Dossier

If you’ve managed to apply for and obtain a French visa, you already know the importance of paperwork in this country. France wants proof for everything — you can’t just show up for an apartment tour and say you’re a great tenant. They want to know your name, date of birth, occupation, how much you make, where you’ve lived in the past, and all of your deepest hopes and dreams. Okay, the last one is an exaggeration, but you get the gist.

In fact, most landlords or rental agencies will ask to see your dossier before they’re willing to even speak to you. At minimum, it should include:

  • A copy of your passport and visa
  • Proof of income (French pay stubs are strongest, or bank statements)
  • A work contract or school enrollment letter
  • Recent utility bills or proof of address
  • A French bank account to prove you have one
  • A ‘garanteur’ or someone who makes more money than you, who is willing to back you up, like a parent or relative

Here’s the catch: even people with great salaries or a chunky savings account struggle. French landlords want to see French paperwork, and without that, they may see you as too much of a risk. And, the truth is, I also know dozens, if not more, French people who struggle to provide solid dossiers too. I know many who use fake pay stubs and bank statements to make them look better off than they are. That’s how competitive this is!

There are services in place for foreigners or folks without well-off family members, like GarantMe or Visale, but I also know there are some landlords who won’t accept them.

I know it’s not fair, but it’s how the system works.

Where to Look

There are several rental platforms to choose from, but I’ve had the best luck personally on SeLoger, PAP, and Facebook. Craigslist Paris is also worth checking out, but it is full of scams, so be careful. HiPParis has some cool options, but mostly only for buying. Don’t forget Stephen’s Airbnb trick too. There are also rental agencies that specialize in helping expats (if there’s an interest, I can do some digging on ones to try!).

Your best bet? It’s all about word of mouth and people you know.

I know, I know — but, Molli, what if I just moved to Paris and I don’t know anyone yet? I get it! Building community and finding your people takes time, but once you do, a whole new world will open up to you. You never know who you may meet, who may have a friend looking for someone to take over their lease, or an aunt who needs someone to stay in their apartment for a year while they travel.

Like anything else, getting to a point where you can simply ask around and find an apartment in Paris will take some time.

And a lot of times, just when you think it’s never going to work out, it does. You’ll get the call. You’ll sign the lease. You’ll move in.

Prefer video? Watch us discuss finding an apartment in Paris on YouTube!

Photo by Doctor Tinieblas on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.