hands holding smartphone taking picture of sparkling eiffel tower

Building Our YouTube Channel: The Idea

In case you missed it, TAIP is officially on YouTube!

When I took over the website (in case you missed that too), I knew I wanted to continue to publish weekly articles with the ultimate goal of helping all of you move to France, adapt once you get there, and potentially connect with other expats in Paris (join our Facebook community if you haven’t already). But, with the world as a whole turning decidedly towards video, I also knew I wanted to start sharing on social media in a more important way.

Not to minimize what we’ve already accomplished here on the site — the opposite really — but to reach even more people who also dream of making a life in France one day.

In true TAIP fashion, I was encouraged by Stephen (who is still very much involved in the website and consultations) to document the process. We urge you to do the same in our book 29 Days to France, so it makes sense.

I’m also a writer at heart, and documentation is all a part of it. In the past, I’ve often let my fear of being perceived prevent me from sharing too deeply, especially online. In the way that some feel empowered by the anonymity of it all, I can feel intimidated by it. But, creating this channel has ripped off the proverbial band-aid. I have shared, and it doesn’t look like much can stop me now.

So, in this first chapter of building our YouTube channel in public, it’s only fitting that we start back in the beginning, when the idea first entered my ether.

“Would You Ever Start a YouTube Channel With Me?”

Was pretty much how Stephen approached me with the project. We work together on many things within and outside of the TAIP universe, but were coming off of several quiet months where we didn’t have too much going on.

I had been in charge of the site for months at this point, but life kept getting in the way of me doing anything different with it. I knew I wanted to start posting more on social media, but didn’t really have a plan for how to start, or even what to post, for that matter.

So when Stephen mentioned a YouTube channel I found myself saying yes almost immediately — it would give me the content I was looking for and could be a really fun creative outlet. I had already started dabbling with making more well-thought-out videos for Instagram and TikTok and had really enjoyed the process. If I could do that, all while helping people who also dreamt of living in France, well… it was an easy yes.

In Over My Head

I tend to think, “Oh, I can do that,” about almost anything. It’s a belief that has served me very well in my personal and professional life but it also means I can get myself in over my own head quite easily.

The YouTube learning curve has been steep — especially for someone who doesn’t even really consume YT on their own. I have general SEO knowledge thanks to my writing career, but did it work the same with video? What should I put in titles and descriptions? And what the heck is a thumbnail?

All of the above doesn’t even include everything I had to learn about video editing, which is a monster to learn in its own right.

Two months in and I’m finally feeling like I’m no longer in over my head. Editing is still difficult and time-consuming but it’s getting easier. I’ve learned a ton, we’ve gotten such a great response, and now I have so many more skills to add to my repertoire.

Feeling More Comfortable Sharing

Something else that has stemmed from starting our YouTube channel is that I’m becoming much more comfortable in front of the camera and sharing in general. I’m beginning to understand the value in opening up more — if someone can relate to something I share and finds it helpful, my job is done. Ultimately, I love helping others and if posting YT videos can accomplish that, I’m happy.

This is something I’ve been wanting to do for a long time. If you speak to some of my closest friends, they will tell you that I’ve debated being more public and sharing my story more deeply online for years. Now that I’m doing it and have seen how helpful it can be for all of you, and how fun it has been for me, I’m so excited to keep going.

I’m also excited to share more of what goes on behind the scenes as we build this channel up. We have so much in store, and this truly is just the beginning. We’ve only been at it since April and I’m already thinking about a rebrand and a schedule switch-up after everything I’ve been learning.

If you’re interested in following along, you know where to find me — yapping over on YouTube, or writing here on the site. I can’t wait to see where this takes all of us.

Photo by Nat Weerawong on Unsplash

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students cleaning the kitchen at restaurant d'application ferrandi in paris

Upscale Dining at Low-Scale Prices: Dine in a French Restaurant School (École d’Application)

Posted by doli

France has a reputation for great food, and she intends to keep it that way!

How does France keep up its reputation for good food? Where do all the great chefs come from? Would you like to dine on the knowledge that the student-chef of today’s meal might just be one of the great 4-star chefs of tomorrow?

Relatively confidential, there are a myriad of restaurant schools in Paris where the public can come and dine.

Logically, if students are to learn to cook for restaurants, they must be able to practice cooking for restaurant-sized numbers of guests. But when they do so, who is going to eat the meal? And how can they learn to serve correctly? That, therefore, is the basis of the “restaurant d’application.” The general public can reserve tables at these restaurants where the quality tends to be high and the cost low.

Some are private and students pay for their studies, some are part of the public high school (and post-high school) system, some are specifically for dropouts from school or from society altogether, or for the handicapped, and aim to train the students in a profession where they are sure to find work.

So that students can practice their skills regularly, these schools have restaurants where the students are in charge under the very watchful eyes of their teachers: they check your coat, greet and seat you, create the cocktails of the day, get your wine choice, and serve. Out of sight, they do all the cooking.

As these restaurants are schools, many of them only serve lunch, and almost all of them follow the French school year and are therefore closed on the weekends and during French school vacations.

In most cases, menus are announced in advance; they can be fixed or offer some choice, but drinks are most often extra.

RESERVATIONS ARE A MUST, and should be made well in advance. It is best to reserve as close as possible to the day that a restaurant opens its reservations for a particular date, which may be more or less a month before, as tables fill up very quickly.

Let’s take a closer look.

Ferrandi

This is France’s most sought-after restaurant school. Some of France’s greatest chefs began at Ferrandi. At the same address, there are two restaurants, both gastronomique, the 28 and Le Premier, that differ only in the students’ class level. At the latter, food is prepared and served by students studying for the equivalent of a high school diploma in food service, while at the former, students will be working toward a bachelor’s degree. There is also a year-long international section, which is taught in English. The students are expected to be highly conscientious and professional in their work.

Seating for a five-course lunch takes place at 12:30pm, and the lunch from amuse-bouches through to dessert and mignardises (a kind of smaller, second dessert) will finish at around 3pm. Reservations open three weeks before the lunch date, which can become full within minutes. However, after chatting with the director of the international program, he has suggested that an email can be sent to try and get a reservation for the time you will be in Paris. In this case, be sure to ask for English-speaking students, who will be happy to prepare their wait service specially for you in English.

Address: 28 Rue de l’Abbé Grégoire, 75006 Paris, France

Restaurant d’Application Belliard

Like for Ferrandi, there are two restaurants here: Sesame and Paprika. The former is where first-year students learn to bake bread, cook, and serve, and to study wine and coffee. It was kindly explained that the objective of Sesame is to give young people a first professional experience of this trade and to inspire them to continue in this career. The latter is for more advanced students studying for a degree in restauration.

Address: 135 rue Belliard, 75018 Paris, France

La Table d’Albert de Mun

With a small vase of fresh flowers on each one, this vocational high school has round tables throughout for groups of 5-6, with some square ones along the walls for smaller groups. Beyond the main general restaurant curriculum, the school offers three specializations: pastry and bread baking, as well as chocolates and wines, where proof of the learning is in the eating (and drinking!).

Menus are announced on the site, so reservation dates best made a month in advance can be made according to taste. When reserving, do indicate if anyone in the party has allergies and that you would like a menu in English — the students have a course in translating menus, and the teachers are happy to have English speakers as guests on whom the students can practice their language skills.

It is important to note that the school will ask for a credit card number for a reservation; in case of a no-show with cancellation less than 48 hours in advance, 15 € will be deducted from the card.

Address: 3 Rue Pierre Leroux, 75007 Paris, France

Lycée Hôtelier Guillaume Tirel

From the name only, it can be seen that this is a vocational high school. In fact, its courses include both food service and hotel accommodation. Lycée Hôtelier Guillaume Tirel has three restaurants with different levels of service: Brasserie Orée, Côté Jardin, and Astérie. Brasserie ORée and Coté Jardin offer a vocational high school degree in food service, and Astérie, an advanced degree. Both lunch and dinner menus and dates are fixed and published with their prices on the site for the month to come.

After lunch at the Coté Jardin, the four student chefs all came out to see how we enjoyed the meal. They are proud of how their school is somewhat smaller than others and of the importance of working together closely in teams. We were informed that there is a vegetable garden in the back courtyard of the school, which is the mainstay of each year’s “project”; i.e., the graduating class takes away whatever vegetables are left after the school year, and the next class decides what vegetables they want to grow for their year. These vegetables then find themselves in guests’ dishes — to our eating delight!

The hotel displays very modest prices (for Paris) for its few rooms. It is only open during the school year, on school days, and as can be expected, the service is provided by the students.

Address: 237 Bd Raspail, 75014 Paris, France

Mederic

Different from the other vocational school restaurants, Mederic‘s menu is not pre-set; diners can eat more or less depending on their appetite. Menus offer a small choice for each of their three courses: appetizer, main, and dessert. Also, diners can choose to order only one course, two, or all three, and will only be charged accordingly.

Address: 20 Rue Médéric, 75017 Paris, France

La Salamandre

Lost in the east end of Paris in the 20th arrondissement and so named for the large sculpture hanging on the building across the street (well worth looking up for), La Salamandre serves lunch on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Also, at the end of a school term, it serves a dinner on Wednesday as the final exam for the students. Because it is a private organisation and not attached to the French school system, it is open all year round. Now and then, it opens for a brunch on the weekend, mainly serving salads and pastries. A relatively inexpensive bag of mixed breads can be ordered in advance to be picked up at mealtime and taken home. Typically, this will include a baguette, some special bread, and various breakfast breads, depending on the day’s production.

Many speak very highly of Thierry Marx, the renowned chef who has founded this private-run, free school for those who have fallen out of the mainstream labor system and want to learn a profession. It seems that Marx comes from a working-class background and is devoted to helping those who want to raise themselves in today’s workforce. He has also opened a “bouillon” (a low-cost restaurant serving traditional French dishes) in Clichy, but that is another story.

Address: 3 Rue Albert Marquet, 75020 Paris, France

A Few More Vocational Restaurants

Too many food service schools, too many meals to be eaten, this article is in no way exhaustive. It only reflects my dining during this school year. There are many other restaurant schools in and around Paris and beyond. Below is an incomplete list of a few more. Check them out to see how they present, find the menus and prices.

Restaurant d’Application A. Dumas: 29 bis rue de Cronstadt 75015 Paris
Vatel: 122 Rue Nollet 75017 Paris. The restaurant does both lunch and dinner. It is most known for its dessert trolley.
Far out at Paris limits to the west is the La Fontaine EPMT: 6 rue Louis Vierne 75017 Paris. This restaurant also does dinner on days that are specified on its site.

Do give this very French culinary experience a try; it can become addictive. Bon appétit!

Photo features students busy cleaning up their kitchen at Ferrandi.

The Secret of the South: Le Puy-en-Velay

Posted by Jackie Minton

“Le Puy-en-what?” This is often the response I receive when asked where I am living in France. Even many of my French friends from other regions of the country are unfamiliar with it.

As I write during my return flight to the US for the summer, I can tell you that just this morning a French travel inspector in Paris asked me what I had been doing in France and where I was going. I explained that I had been teaching English in a town called Le Puy-en-Velay. She seemed convinced I made it up, until I explained where it is on a map.

Two hours south of Clermont-Ferrand and two hours west of Lyon, you could say it is in the middle of nowhere. I fell in love with Le Puy-en-Velay on my arrival, but what I didn’t realize then is that I was far from the first to be taken by the charm of this little village in the valley. While visiting the Orsay Museum in Paris last year, I stumbled across not one but two different works of art depicting scenes from my new town. After stumbling across the second, I remember thinking, “Okay, maybe I’m not crazy for loving this place.”

Decidedly picturesque, Le Puy (as it is called for short) is riddled with impressive monuments and little alleys. Tucked in the heart of the French countryside, this medieval starting place for the Camino de Santiago has attracted artists and pilgrims seeking respite for centuries. This peaceful region, once dominated by volcanic activity, is now a haven of striking rock formations and ancient history.

If it’s So Great, Why is it Still a Secret?

Le Puy is not well connected by public transit. It’s relatively far from bigger cities, and even trains to Clermont and Lyon are not direct. Most locals have cars and visitors would be most comfortable renting one for an extended stay. The perk of this inconvenience is that the town has remained quiet and protected from the casual passerby.

But as you may note by the grandeur of its Cathedral or its medieval architecture, there was a time this quiet town wasn’t so quiet.

What to See

Notre Dame de France

When coming into Le Puy, the statue of Our Lady of France may just catch your eye. She’s situated on the center peak of town, and at night she casts a glow over the whole city. Made with the metal of 213 cannons taken from the Russians during the Crimean War, the statue was gifted to the city of Le Puy en Velay by Napoleon III in 1860. It was the tallest statue in the world until it was surpassed by the Statue of Liberty. I’ll remind you that it was a gift to the US from France.

Cathedral du Puy

A famous site for pilgrimage since the 400s, its varied architecture reveals a history of construction over the centuries. Even Charlemagne made multiple visits to the Cathedral in the 8th century, and Isabelle Romée (the mother of Joan of Arc) made an appearance in 1429. Every morning from April to October, the Cathedral offers a send-off blessing for those embarking on the Camino de Santiago. I don’t want to give too much away, but I will say the “trap door” opening at the end is impressive.

St. Michel’s Rock & Chapel

Come for the views, stay for the culture. The construction of this chapel in the sky was approved by Bishop Godesclac, the first person to walk to Santiago from outside of Spain in 961. A stone staircase of 268 steps brings you from the access road to its Romanesque entrance. A small museum kept by Le Puy’s office of tourism recounts the geographic anomaly of the mountain before you make your way up.

St. Joseph of Good Hope Sanctuary

Built on the site of a chateau fortress in 1910, this Basilica provides a magnificent panoramic view of the valley (as pictured). Inside the church, a colorful tapestry behind the altar depicts the life of this remarkable saint. Pilgrims can visit a cave chapel beneath the statue, or even step inside the statue itself as of its reopening in 2025.

Enjoy Nature

Surrounded by rich landscapes, Le Puy-en-Velay offers no shortage of excursions for nature lovers. Picture perfect lakes, off-the-path waterfalls, colorful mountains and a suspended forest bridge are all within an hour’s drive away. I’ll leave a list of recommendations here.

When to Come

I may have lived here through the winter, but I can vouch that Le Puy shines in the summer. Literally, the whole town is illuminated at night from July to September. With a higher elevation, the region can see snowfall from late fall to early spring. Most of the tourist sites close or have very limited hours from October to March, so I would recommend coming outside of this window. Thanks to the market in the town center, Saturday mornings have become my favorite moment of the week. If you can swing being here during a weekend, you may have more fun.

Now, if you’re looking to celebrate with the locals, every year the town hosts a candlelit procession to the Cathedral on August 15th. This holiday in the French calendar marks the Assumption of Mary into heaven. Though I haven’t had the privilege of witnessing the celebration myself, many have told me this is a sight to see.

Ever dreamed of living in the middle ages, or wondered what that would be like? Le Puy has hosted a renaissance festival called the Roi de l’Oiseau for over 40 years. The third weekend of September, the town transforms into a medieval village. My first week in town happened to land at this time and the spirit of imagination in the air was mesmerizing. Hotels and hostels fill up, so be sure to book early.

Every November Le Puy hosts a weekend of hot air balloon lift-offs. This is not a cheap way to see the city, but I’ve heard it is magnificent. The town becomes magical as colorful spots fill the sky. My jaw dropped on the sidewalk when I stepped out of work and saw this surprise last year.

Should I Visit?

Now I’m not saying Le Puy should be your first place to visit in France, maybe not even your fifth. It’s pretty hard to get here, so you’ll likely have to stop at a few other cities on the way. However, if you’re looking to explore the countryside and can swing a central France getaway, I’m glad that this little gem is now on your radar.

Learn more about Le Puy’s history and upcoming events at its official tourism website.

Photo of Le Puy-en-Velay taken on film from the viewpoint of St. Joseph’s Sanctuary

an old book with the words 'a french course for schools' written on it

The Mindset Shifts That Helped Me Learn French Faster

Posted by Molli Sébrier

Way back in 2014, I moved to France with little more than a couple of suitcases, a dream of living in Europe, and about three words of French. When I first stepped foot off the plane, I had no idea how hard — and how rewarding — learning the language would be. The rewarding piece is important. Learning and then mastering French as an adult is truly one of my life’s greatest accomplishments.

As I went along, something I quickly realized was that my success wouldn’t just come from memorizing vocabulary or drilling myself with grammar quizzes.

It would come from changing how I approached the entire process.

Here are the mindset shifts that actually improved and then accelerated my French that I hope can help you too.

1. I Embraced Embarrassment Instead of Fearing It

If you’re not new here, you’ve heard me say this about a million times: I’m shy! Even in English, my native language, I tend to lean more towards the reserved side of the spectrum. I used to fight against it, but now I embrace it. Just like I embraced being embarrassed by my French level instead of being afraid to even try.

When I first arrived, almost every conversation ended in confusion or blank stares — mostly on my end. I got used to pretending to listen and then making an educated guess based on the person in front of me’s body language to determine whether I should respond with a half-hearted oui or non. It worked out about half the time.

Something that really helped me was the French as a foreign language program I took at Nanterre. It was enough coursework to qualify for the student visa, and I was able to learn French with peers at the same level as me. This opened up a whole new world of possibilities because I was no longer ashamed to try and practice — two crucial aspects of learning a new language.

I was always so embarrassed by my accent, but the truth is most French speakers find it charmant and I’ve also started leaning into that, 10+ years on.

2. I Prioritized Progress over Perfection

This is another aspect of learning French that was very difficult for me. I’m a self-proclaimed perfectionist, and honestly? You just can’t hold on to that when learning a new language, skill, or anything else you’ve never done before. If you wait for perfection, you’ll be waiting forever.

So, the next mindset shift involved me pushing perfectionism out of the way so I could keep trying — and be okay with making mistakes as I went along. One of my first big wins in France wasn’t making a flawless speech in front of a room of French speakers. It was being able to order a meal without stumbling over my words, accent or not. It didn’t matter that I may have gotten a verb tense wrong. What mattered was that I was actually communicating in French.

I started telling myself that as long as the person in front of me understood the gist of what I was trying to say, I was making progress. I have to laugh when I think back to some of the very kind people who just let me go on and on, even if I was using the wrong words or conjugations. This shift kept me moving forward even when my French was nowhere near “perfect.”

3. I Leaned into Feeling Uncomfortable

This mindset shift can really apply to the entire experience of moving to a foreign country where I knew no one and didn’t speak the language. And while yes, being uncomfortable most of the time wasn’t always great, the feeling I got on the other side of that was incredible.

My belief is that putting yourself in places outside of your comfort zone will only help you grow. The first time I ever left the US to do my semester abroad was a little scary at first, but the experience went on to change my entire life — something that would have never happened if I stayed in my hometown.

In those early days, every time I spoke French with actual French speakers, I felt super uncomfortable. Is everyone staring at me? Did I use the right verb there? Is my accent so heinous that everyone is trying not to laugh? Of course, thoughts like those crossed my mind, but I had to ignore them to improve.

Straining to pay attention to a conversation is uncomfortable. Making mental notes to remember what to respond is uncomfortable. Not being able to find the word you’re looking for is uncomfortable. Sitting there as everyone easily converses around you while you’re still stuck on something that was said 10 minutes ago… is uncomfortable.

But, I had to go through these moments to learn French. And the good news? I did it. I started feeling much more comfortable after that intensive year of French courses at Nanterre, which, when all said and done, at the end of that, I had already been in France for 3.5 years.

So, yes, it can take time. But, I went over knowing nothing and my first few years were spent in an English-speaking bubble. As soon as I made the commitment to myself to actually study, I saw improvement within just a few months.

And today, 10+ years after touching down to live in France, I can confidently say that I am a French speaker. My husband and I only communicate in French, same with all of my in-laws. Most of my French friends like to try out their English with me, so we end up speaking in a funny franglish or franglais when we’re together, but I get plenty of practice with them too.

I’m able to navigate different accents, converse on a variety of topics, read a French novel, and take care of all of my paperwork myself. Some of that is thanks to years of practice and effort, but a lot of it is also due to the mindset shifts that had to happen in order to improve.

Listen. If I can learn French, anyone can — prove me wrong.

Photo by Erik Mclean on Unsplash

French Etiquette 101

Posted by Molli Sébrier

When I first moved to France, many things surprised me initially. Most were pleasant — you mean I can order a 2€ coffee and sit at the same table undisturbed for hours on end? I can go grocery shopping without having to inspect every ingredient list? I can take a leisurely, 1-hour lunch break, and that’s the norm?

Then, there were things I wasn’t expecting, and most of those are wrapped up in the world of French Etiquette. It’s its own cultural code, and coming from the US, some of these social rules might surprise you, like they surprised me.

Where Americans value friendliness (real or not), casual conversation, and a general “easygoing” type of vibe, the French prefer formality, precision, and specific boundaries when it comes to social situations. As an American married to a French person, I’ll let you imagine just how many awkward moments I’ve found myself in over the years.

Some parts of French etiquette I really love and respect, and I look forward to raising my future children with many of its values. On the other hand, some others that make you feel like you’re living in a world since long passed — and I’m happy to blame my I’m-a-foreigner naïveté when I choose not to participate in them.

Understanding these differences can help you avoid awkward moments and start off on the right foot. I knew nothing before moving to France — allow me to help you not make the same mistakes I did.

Start Every Conversation with Bonjour

One way to be perceived as the rude American is to walk into a shop without saying bonjour as soon as you enter. The same goes for passing a neighbor in the hallway or just starting a conversation with someone. You should always begin with a bonjour during the day, or a bonsoir in the evening.

Skipping this can come across as very abrupt and yes, rude. Even a quick trip to the bakery starts with bonjour, madame/monsieur — and only after saying that should you place your order.

The fact that this is not the norm in the US always shocks my French husband — he would never dream of entering a public place without a greeting.

Use Formal Titles First

This is something else that doesn’t always occur in the States. Americans like to be on a “first-name basis” right away, but in France, it’s the opposite: formality is the default.

Always address new acquaintances (if they’re significantly older than you), shopkeepers, and service providers/professionals as madame or monsieur until they tell you otherwise. In my experience, even most French people find this to be a bit old-fashioned, and they will often tell you to call them by their first name after the first drop of a formal title. But it’s not considered polite to jump in without a little formality first.

The same goes for written communication. Whether it’s an email or a letter, begin formally and wait for cues before moving into a more casual tone.

It’s Vous until They Say So

One of the biggest differences between French and English is the whole tu vs. vous discussion. Tu is the informal you, while vous is the formal version, which shows respect. Unless you’re speaking to a child, someone your own age, or a person you know very well, always start with vous.

Switching to tu too soon can seem overfamiliar or even disrespectful, especially for the older generation. Let the French person make the first move if they decide they want to “tutoyer” instead of “vous voyez.”

This is something my French family doesn’t really hold me to — I do try my best to vous voyez everyone until they tell me otherwise, but often I don’t know what form is the correct one to use.

The general rule is: if you don’t know them or they’re older than you, it’s always vous. I usually just follow my husband’s lead. I have been on the receiving end of some strange looks when I tutoyer right away without really thinking about it. But, it’s often followed up by a comment like, “Oh, I forgot in English you don’t have the same rules,” and I’m forgiven.

But, when in doubt? Vous voyez is the move.

Mind Your Table Manners

French dining culture is another world all its own. If you’re invited to a meal, here are some basics I would keep in mind:

Never show up right on time to a dinner party. 5-15 minutes late is expected.
Never start eating until everyone is served and the host says bon appétit.
Always trinquer (cheers) with everyone present before taking a sip of your drink.
Need a refill? Serve everyone else first.
Use your utensils for everything; eating with your hands (even pizza or fruit) is considered rude.
When it comes to digging into the cheese plate, follow the host’s lead. Or do what I do and just ask someone else to cut it for you because it’s too much pressure.
Don’t clear away any dishes until everyone is done eating.
Offer to help clean up.

Don’t Overshare

Something I discovered early on in France is that personal information is revealed slowly, over time. Asking too many questions about someone’s job, salary, or family life too early in a conversation can feel invasive to the French.

Small talk isn’t the same as it is in the US either. The French don’t tend to chat casually with strangers at the grocery store or on public transportation. Once you build a relationship, yes, conversations can go very deep — often much deeper than what I’ve experienced in the States — but until then, privacy is important.

My husband and I talk about this all the time. Say you’re out at a bar and you meet an American. Suddenly, you’re their “new best friend,” and “OMG, we definitely need to hang out, I love you so much!” But, will you ever see that person again? Probably not, they were just being friendly, fake or not. Any information they may have shared was likely very surface-level and a whole lot of fluff.

Conversely, making casual friends with a French person is much more difficult, and they would never consider a person they just met their best friend or someone they love. But, once you do start getting to know them, you’ll be able to rely on them, and when they say we, “definitely need to hang out,” they’ll actually mean it. Then they’ll tell you their whole life story over coffee at 10am with a side of existential conversation to boot.

The Art of La Bise

Saying goodbye (and hello) in France is its own mini-ceremony. Whether you’re leaving a dinner party or wrapping up a business meeting, it’s important to properly acknowledge everyone in the room.

In informal settings this almost always includes la bise — the French cheek kiss — though the exact number of kisses can vary by region (it’s usually two, but more in the south). It never, ever, ever, includes a hug unless you’re with family or very close friends… and even then, most French people do prefer la bise.

Of course this tradition was put into the spotlight during the pandemic and the years following. In my friend group, we were all not-so-secretly really happy to ditch la bise. But, in my opinion, it is officially back, and skipping it would be considered rude. Alas, I’ve had to suck it up and start kissing cheeks again when entering and leaving a room.

All of this said, French etiquette isn’t designed to be frustrating, cold, or annoying — it’s simply more structured than what we’re used to in the US. There are more rules, and where American culture values friendliness, French culture values politesse (politeness) and respect for social boundaries.

As we always say here at TAIP, if you approach your interactions with curiosity, most people will appreciate your effort, even if you don’t get every single rule right the first time.

And when in doubt, you can always blame your I’m-a-foreigner naïveté like I do.

Photo by Sébastien Bloesch on Unsplash

Cost of Living in Paris vs. Other French Cities

Posted by Molli Sébrier

Something that always seems to shock other Americans is when I tell them how low the cost of living in France is compared to the US. You pay HOW MUCH for internet?! I’m usually met with, when I tell people I’ve never paid more than about 30€ per month.

Internet, phone bills, groceries, going out, restaurants, housing, health care… the list goes on and on, and the one thing they all have in common is that they come at a much lower price tag when I look at what many of my compatriots have to pay in the States.

Now, all of this being said, the cost of living in Paris as compared to other French cities is quite high in the scheme of things. If you’re coming from an already-expensive area, you may not seem phased. You may even decide to stay in the capital because at the end of the day, it’s more affordable than someplace like New York, San Francisco, or Boston.

But, if you’re interested in looking into other areas, the good news is that Paris isn’t your only option. France is a diverse, well-connected country with cities that boast rich culture, excellent food, and plenty of charm in their own right.

Housing

Almost always the single largest expense in France (or anywhere else, really), and Paris is known for its higher prices. If you want to rent a one-bedroom apartment in the center of the city, you can expect to pay anywhere from 1,300-2,800€, depending on the neighborhood. Even a studio can easily reach 1,000€ or more.

In comparison, cities like Lyon, Bordeaux, Montpellier, Rennes, and Nantes have much more breathing room — in square meters and budget. In most of these cities, a similar one-bedroom will range from 600-1,200€, or even less if you choose somewhere outside of the center.

Of course, the trade-off is location and lifestyle, but there is still plenty to do and see in places like Bordeaux (where nearly half of all my formerly-Parisian friends now live) and Lyon. A lot of the time, what you give up in cultural activities, you gain back in space, quiet, and a slower pace.

Groceries & Other Essentials

The difference in cost between Paris and smaller cities re: groceries is more subtle but still worth noting. Grocery bills in the capital can definitely run higher than in provincial cities.

However, local markets tend to have more options. Differences in produce and specialty items might even be better in smaller cities, where the supply chain is shorter and prices are less inflated simply because they’re in Paris.

For example, a kilo of tomatoes might cost 3.50€ in a Parisian market and 2.50€ in a small-town marché.

Utility costs (electricity, gas, water) are pretty similar across France (thanks socialism!), but older Parisian buildings almost always have poor insulation, which makes winter heating costs higher. Internet is around €30-40/month in Paris, while some smaller towns may have deals as low as €20/month, especially if fiber optic hasn’t made it out there yet.

Transportation Costs

One of my favorite things about living in Paris is the robust metro system. I hated being a car owner in the US, so being able to survive vehicle-free has been a major blessing. What’s more, public transportation here is a fraction of what some friends of mine pay in places like NYC.

My handy Navigo pass covers unlimited metro, bus, tram, and RER (suburban trains) within the Île-de-France region, and currently costs 86.40 € per month.

Other French cities like Lyon, Rennes, or Strasbourg typically have monthly transit passes that cost between 40-65€. If you’re living in a more rural area, you’ll almost certainly need a car, which can get expensive. Gas is around 1.80-2€ per liter, and French car insurance is higher than what you’ll see in the US.

Going Out and Socializing

Another one of my favorite parts of French life is its café culture and general attitude toward socializing.

Interestingly enough, the price difference for a cup of coffee is very noticeable once you leave Paris. One in the city of lights could set you back 4.50-6€, especially somewhere like Café Flore. In places like Rennes or Angers, that same coffee might only cost 2.50-3.50€.

The same applies to dining out, drinks, and other entertainment. Smaller cities will have more affordable menus and the overall cost of a night out is generally lower. That said, Paris of course gives you more variety… but it comes at a premium.

Healthcare

France’s universal healthcare system, AKA the sécurité sociale ensures that medical costs are fairly consistent across the country. Whether you live in Paris or a countryside village, your reimbursements for doctor appointments and medication will follow the same rates.

The only real caveat here is that finding an English-speaking doctor will likely be much more difficult as opposed to in Paris. If you speak French well, this shouldn’t be an issue.

Paris does boast an unmatched blend of history, culture, and access — but it’s not the only French city worth looking into.

Ultimately the choice isn’t only about the finances. You need to really think about the kind of life you want to build in France. I know for myself, Paris is irreplaceable and I do not regret a minute I’ve lived here. That said, looking toward the future, now that many of my friends have moved away, I’m no longer in my 20s, and even my French in-laws are planning to move, I do have my eye on some different French cities and towns.

Luckily, there are so many places to choose from, right? 🙂

Photo by Markus Spiske on Unsplash

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 18th Arrondissement

Posted by Molli Sébrier

When most people think of the 18th arrondissement in Paris, one image comes to mind: cobblestoned Montmarte, with the white-domed Sacré-Cœur Basilica watching over the city, the Place du Tertre and its artists and easels, and cafés that look like they’re straight out of an Impressionist painting.

I can’t blame them because I was one of them. Until I moved to the 18th and realized it was so much more. Don’t get me wrong, I love Montmartre (and wrote an entire article about it), but I would be remiss if I didn’t share all of the other things to see and do in the area.

Whether you know the dix-huitième like the back of your hand or you’ve only ever wandered next to the Sacré-Cœur, this arrondissement deserves a closer look.

Beyond Montmartre

Okay, Molli, we get it… the 18th is more than Montmartre! …is probably what all of you are thinking at this point, but let me explain.

While it’s true — Montmartre is one of the most famous spots in Paris, and for good reason. But if you limit yourself to the hilltop that looms over the rest of the city, you’ll miss a lot of the complexity and authentic, this-is-where-Parisians-actually-live energy to be found in the 18th.

This arrondissement has long been known for its artistic history and working-class roots. I mean, La Commune de Paris, a revolutionary government that seized power in Paris in 1871 did begin in Montmartre. Not to mention, Pablo Picasso, Claude Monet, Piet Mondrian, and Vincent Van Gogh all lived and worked there.

It should come as no surprise that today the area remains an eclectic mix of young families, immigrants, students, and creatives. Neighborhoods like Jules Joffrin (my stomping grounds!), Lamarck-Caulaincourt, Marx Dormoy, and Château Rouge all have their own unique vibe.

Once you get past the souvenir stands that crowd the area around the Sacré-Cœur, you’ll find winding streets and staircases where real Parisians spend their time in bakeries, cafés, local shops, and markets. It offers a good glimpse into real Parisian life.

Monuments in the 18th

I can’t talk about the 18th arrondissement without mentioning some of its most recognizable landmarks:

Sacré-Cœur Basilica: With its bright white façade and Byzantine architecture, the basilica is quite different from the other gothic cathedrals in the city. I definitely recommend stepping inside, even if there’s a line ot enter. Where the Notre-Dame is dark and moody, the Sacré-Cœur is bright and airy. You can also visit the dome, or simply enjoy a cup of coffee on the steps to admire the view.
Le Mur des Je t’aime (The I Love You Wall): Just outside the Abbessess metro station you’ll find the deep blue tiled wall with the words I love you written in hundreds of languages. It’s a touristy spot for sure — but also a great meeting place before going to one of the bars down the street. Le Chinon is my favorite local place, if you’re wondering.
Saint-Pierre de Montmartre Church: So few people know about this one! But, the Saint-Pierre is one of the oldest surviving churches in Paris. It’s a great place to spot in for some quiet respite, meditation, or prayer when the streets get too hectic.
Montmartre Cemetery: Much less intimidating than the Père Lachaise Cemetery, here you’ll find famous graves like Dalida and François Truffaut. You’ll also discover a community of cats, taken care of by a local charity group (really).

My Favorite Museums & Bookstore

While there aren’t a ton of museums in the 18th, there are still a few worth checking out, including one of my top recommendations for a fun day date:

Musée de Montmartre: I love taking visitors to this one as it’s so unexpected. Once you walk in off the bustling streets, you’re brought to a quiet and peaceful garden and a beautiful historic home (once occupied by the artist Renoir) that houses the museum.

Dalí Paris: My now-husband and I went here for one of our earliest dates so it always brings back memories. If you love surrealism, you’ll want to pop inside this small but so fascinating museum. It’s just off the Place du Tertre and is full of sculptures, engravings, sketches, and even some films.

Halles Saint Pierre: Tucked away at the foot of the Sacré-Cœur, Halles Saint Pierre is a bookstore specializing in art books, exhibition catalogues, art publications, and books on design and architecture. There’s also a café — and thanks to the massive windows there’s also plenty of natural light to read by.

More Things to Do in the 18th Arrondissement

Just like nearly every arrondissement in Paris, there are monuments and museums to explore… but what I love most about the 18th is that it’s one of the rare areas in Paris that has maintained its “village within a city” feel. It’s also very multicultural and a good representation of what the actual population of France looks like.

The Goutte d’Or is a must-visit if you’re into cooking. The rue Dejean market is open daily and offers fresh produce, spices, and African specialties you won’t easily find elsewhere in the city.

The rue des Abbesses just may be the epicenter of the Montmartre “village” and is lined with cafés, bakeries, boutiques, and wine bars. It’s a perfect place to settle in for an afternoon people-watching or to pick up pastries from Maison Aleph or bread from Le Grenier à Pain (trust).

The Square Maurice Kriegel-Valrimont right in my Jules Joffrin neighborhood is the exact opposite of the touristy spots on the butte de Montmartre. A short walk from the rue du Poteau market street and surrounded by Haussmannian buildings, it’s my favorite place to take a midday break and admire everyday life unfold before my eyes.

When I start dreaming of living in other places in Paris (Saint-Germain-des-Prés will always hold a special place in my heart), I let myself get caught up in the dream. Until I remember how incredible the 18th arrondissement is. I think I’ve found my favorite place for life.

Photo by Daniel Bi on Unsplash

A Page from 29 Days to France: Getting the Essentials Sorted

Posted by Molli Sébrier

For those of us who have moved to France, we know there’s a moment that comes right after the dream becomes reality — when the plan lands, your feet finally hit French soil, and you realize… Okay, now what?

It’s where the idea of moving to France meets with the very real logistics of actually living in a foreign country. It’s also where a lot of people tend to freeze, and then the panic sets in. What comes first? What needs to be done? What’s “normal” in France compared to what you’re used to back home?

When we wrote 29 Days to France, we wanted to walk people through not just the big picture of immigration paperwork or visa timelines (which are also included, fear not😉), but also the smaller minutiae of getting settled into your new French life. Details like getting a cell phone. Setting up electricity. Opening a bank account.

Are they glamorous tasks? No. But they’re the foundation of pretty much everything else. So today, I wanted to share one full day from the book to give any of you preparing for a move to France a sneak peek at what’s inside.

Day 13: Getting the Essentials Sorted

Congratulations, you’ve officially arrived in France! You’ve most likely spent the first few days soaking it all in: your new neighborhood, the sound of chattering French, and the smell of buttery croissants in the air. Now that you’ve touched ground and are ready to start your new French life, you need to take care of a few essentials.

What are the essentials? Your cell plan (and new French number), your electricity and gas (handled by the national carrier, EDF), and your French bank account (which will provide you with a debit card). This won’t be the most exciting part of getting settled, but it’s necessary.

Cell Phone Carrier

There are several French cell phone carriers to choose from, including Orange, SFR, Bouygues, and Free. If you’re coming from the United States, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. Cell phone plans in France are much less expensive. I personally have Free and I pay around 20 € per month for unlimited texts and calls within Europe, unlimited internet access, and 30 days of free calls and 25 GB of internet within the US, among other locations. You can sign up for most cell phone plans online, but you can also go to a store and practice your French, if you’d like.

Electricity & Gas

EDF, which stands for Electricité de France, is the leading supplier of electricity in the country. It is majority-owned by the state, which keeps prices affordable. You’ll want to set up your home’s electricity and gas directly with them.

Your landlord most likely will not arrange this for you, so you’ll have to make a few phone calls. Alternatively, you can sign up online, but you need to get used to making these kinds of calls in French so I suggest that you get all of the practice you can! Once you have your French cell phone sorted you can call EDF at 3004. Make sure you have your address on hand.

This is the single most important and reliable proof of residence in France: the attestation that you pay for electricity.

Bank Account

There are also several different French banks to choose from. I have Crédit Agricole and I am really happy with them. They are a smaller bank and I find that the fees are reasonable. To choose for yourself, you’ll need to think about your personal needs. Do you want a larger bank? One that’s foreigner-friendly? Or maybe a small, local bank?

If you want a bank with a reputation of friendliness to foreigners, go for BNP Paribas. Its headquarters are in Paris and it’s the largest bank in France. It’s also among the largest banks in Europe. BNP is used to working with foreigners and I know that they have several representatives who speak English well.

Exercise: Be aware of your needs and do your research, especially when it comes to what you’re looking for in a cell phone and bank account. Practice (write it down if you need to!) what you’ll need to say in French before you call EDF or head to the bank.

Questions to answer: What do I need in a cell phone plan? What do I need in a bank account?

Why This Page Matters

I chose to share this page because it’s such a real moment in the move-to-France journey — one that not many people online talk about. No matter what kind of visa you’re on, no matter your job, family status, or even the city where you live, everyone has to navigate these basics.

And if you’re feeling intimidated by the idea of making a phone call in French, or choosing between a dozen different banks, or not knowing whether you need to bring ID to the phone store (you do) — that’s normal!

The entire goal behind 29 Days to France is to make this process feel less overwhelming and more doable. Not perfect, and not even necessarily easy, but possible. One small, essential step at a time.

If you liked this little excerpt, the full book features 28 other mini-guides just like this one. Each is focused on a task, a mindset shift, or a key moment in the move-to-France journey.

As a special treat for our American in Paris readers, you can purchase the 29 Days to France ebook for just $10 with the coupon code TAIP. We wrote this book with all of you in mind, and hope you enjoy reading it as much as we did writing it 🙂

Photo by Kristina Tochilko on Unsplash

Keys to Long Term Survival (and Success) as an Immigrant in France (and Anywhere)

Posted by Stephen Heiner

It’s hard to believe that more than a decade of my life has been tied up with France now, and as a two-time immigrant, once to America in my childhood and now to France in my adulthood, there are keys to surviving and succeeding in any immigration process. While mastery of all these keys still won’t guarantee you will feel entirely settled or “at home” in your country of choice, mastery of only 1 or 2 of them signals a countdown to your eventual leaving.

Language

This was less obvious for me on entering the United States as a nine year-old, as I was an English speaker from birth in Singapore. Many are surprised to find out that the US has no official language, but of course, English is the language spoken by the majority of the population. What’s been interesting living in Paris for most of my time in France is the inevitable progress of English in every part of French society, even, to the chagrin of the Académie Française, some years ago, the introduction of English onto official identity cards. But the French are still going to speak French, and if you really want to be part of this country, you’re going to need to learn it.

I’ve spoken in the past about my use of Alliance Française (reasonably priced) and the big leap forward I took at Alpine French School. I couldn’t have known it then, but had I taken the route of so many other English-speakers and stayed in a bubble, I could have permanently stunted my French. There are many, many people (I’ve met them) who have lived in France for 20 years and don’t even have A2 French. Their life is really one of exile, in which they live in a foreign land they happen to love, surrounded by fellow foreigners. Sometimes they colonize entire regions of France, like the Dordogne (which, for history buffs, is connected to land that Henry II of England held, so maybe they are finally just coming home 🙂 ). It’s their life. There is no “right” way to immigrate, as long as you follow the laws of the country in which you are a guest. If people want to retire to the French countryside and never speak French, so be it. But if you really want to be part of France and live with the French, not just among them, get yourself to at least B1.

Friends

The easiest way you are going to make progress in French is to have French friends. We’ve talked about Meetup and other platforms you can use to meet the natives, and you can use whatever techniques you’d like to improve. In my own experience, my French friends are eager to practice their English with a native speaker, so rather than make them my language instructors, I opted for language exchange meetups, in which I would speak French and be corrected by French speakers, and then they would speak English and I would correct them. Once you’ve gotten better here, you can engage in conversations with your French friends and only deal with (usually helpful) corrections every now and then in your conversations.

What the French are conveying to you when you interact with them in their language is who they are and how they were formed. It doesn’t mean that you will like those traits or wish to emulate them (I’ve said numerous times that I will never assimilate to the national sport of complaining, though I now understand the fundamental need for it within current French society) but without being aware of what makes France itself, you’re missing a jewel that is on offer to every immigrant: the chance to reflect on a given way of life and how you might adapt to what best suits you.

Bureaucracy

If you think that dealing with bureaucracy is something reserved for immigrants, you’re wrong. The French have to deal with it too, and they can tell you some horror stories of their own. Even after you get a 10-year card or citizenship, you’re still going to have to deal with bureaucracy. But as long as you understand, as I learned only two years into my journey, that documentation and checklists are at the heart of French bureaucracy, you’ll stop your fear and loathing and just start getting your dossiers together properly and start approaching your appointments with confidence. As for outcomes, well, that’s another story. 🙂

Income

If you are retired and/or have independent means, this doesn’t apply to you, though you should always be consulting with accountants to make sure you’re optimizing your tax strategy. For the rest of us, it’s important to earn money to fund our lives in our new country. While you’re free to work remotely in France, it’s not in and of itself a path to citizenship, and even if you do open your own freelance business in France via Profession Liberale, you’ll need to make at least three times the SMIC for the last couple years before you apply for citizenship. “Economic fragility” is something the French state is concerned about, so as long as you have some way to make the minimum your visa requires, you’ll be able to stay, indefinitely.

Living Situation

I’ve definitely moved my fair share in France, and I have been most content during my time in the 2nd arrondissement and out in Moret-sur-Loing. This does not mean, at all, that I did not enjoy the other places I lived. It just highlights that part of being settled in any country is making sure you really love where you are living. That will usually be more difficult in the earlier years, as not only have you probably just gotten the only accommodations you could find, but you are still learning France and what works for you. I still remember my first visit to Marseille with a friend from Southern California whose mind was spinning while down there about perhaps leaving Paris and coming down to the sunny, olive-oil-and-tomatoes part of France. I’ve been so blessed to have traveled through much of France during my time here, and Paris (and its environs) were the right choice for me, for many reasons.

Final Thoughts

In my earlier years when I was more plugged into the English expat community in France, I was more aware of people who would come and go. “I’m in France forever,” a 22-year-old English student would share breathlessly over apero, only to leave six months later, homesick. “I want to make France my home,” said the San Francisco transplant who gave up a year later when things were just “too hard.” To those who have tried and gone back, I say bravo, for you at least have had the courage to chase your dreams. Finding out that it’s not for you, or that you’re not built to be an immigrant, is nothing to be ashamed of. It’s a victory: more knowledge about yourself.

For the rest of you, wondering if you have what it takes, just look at the keys I’ve mentioned above and ask yourself how well-progressed you are in them and how much effort you’re willing to put in to progress in them. What you answer indicates what your future in France may be.

Photo is from the Cremerie on Rue du Nil, one of my favorite food streets in the city.

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TAIP is Coming to YouTube

Posted by Molli Sébrier

Note from the editor: We are officially live! Tune into our first episode on ways NOT to move to France below, and remember to hit like and subscribe — as always, your support means the world to us. — MS

For those of you who don’t know, I’ve been involved in The American in Paris for several years now. Stephen initially welcomed me into the fold as a guest writer, then we wrote the book, 29 Days to France, together, and eventually, I was brought on to the site in a much more important way when my content creation company, Plume, acquired it in July 2024.

Since then, I’ve kept things mostly the same — we release a new article weekly, have brought on many more guest writers, and even have a dedicated accountant and tax specialist recommendations page, something that has certainly been a long time coming! We have also continued to share valuable information on working remotely in France, a subject that is often debated, especially in the American expat world (and yes, we still stand by everything published here).

Something I’ve been really excited to bring to TAIP is a larger online presence. I know most of our readers enjoy just that — reading our articles and scouring through the comments sections. But, I also know there is a whole group of internauts who prefer to get their information via video. And so, an idea to bring our content to YouTube was born.

I am so excited to announce that we will be launching The Americans in Paris YouTube channel this Wednesday, April 2, with a live episode airing at 9pm CET/3pm EST. It will be the first of our weekly lives in which Stephen and I pick a subject, talk about it, and answer any community questions.

From there, you can expect a weekly solo episode from each of us, something we are both very much looking forward to. Not only will this give us more opportunities to share with you all, but it also means we’ll be able to show our personalities a bit more — expect us to be more playful, and maybe a little more relatable, in our videos than we are in our articles 🙂

In the meantime, make sure to subscribe and tune in on Wednesday. We’re so excited to continue to share with you all via this new platform.

— Molli Sébrier, owner and editor of The American in Paris

Photo by Céline on Pexels