5 Lessons I Learned from the French

I’ve learned a few lessons during my first 6 months of living in France. Over the past few in particular, I’ve noticed myself starting to adopt mindsets and approaches that inherently go against my cultural grain. To be honest, many things about French life feel more natural to me than my old habits. But like any fish in a new pond, I can still tell the water is different.

Here are a few of the lessons I’m taking with me as I return to the US for the summer.

1. Beauty is important.

The first time I stumbled into the park in my French neighborhood, I was stunned. Not only is it beautifully laid out, complete with a volcanic rock fountain and swans, but it is also incredibly well-kept. The flowers are changed out seasonally; the peacocks in its wildlife preserve are fed and tended to. This kind of beauty requires intentional planning, committed workers, and a generous budget. This is city money we are talking about. The idea of this kind of prioritization of beauty in local government blew my mind. 

Voting for beauty with time, effort, and generosity isn’t something reserved for my local park. Thriving flower shops around every other corner remind me that the French will spend their hard-earned money on bringing a little bit of beauty into their home or a friend’s. 

2. To be is worth more than to do.

This mindset is particularly put on display when it comes to French business hours. A two-hour lunch break is not uncommon for stores in smaller towns. This is because shop owners are often the ones working in their stores, and there isn’t someone else to take over for them during lunch. What’s more, they figure you (the customer) would like to eat lunch, too. So the pharmacy, the bank, the post office, and the little craft shop on the corner may take a break midday.

To my American mind, the idea of a store not being open continuously almost felt offensive on my arrival. I can happily say that is no longer the case. I see the value in taking a pause and appreciate that this allows shop owners to attend to other matters while offering a smaller overhead for their business. 

Though lived in the practical, this cultural foothold can also be seen in French behavior. On a sunny day, it’s normal to see people lying in the grass, sitting on a bench with a book, or walking tranquilly —without the goal of getting steps in. When I think about the idea of seeing someone lying in the grass at a park in my American suburban neighborhood, I would be worried that they weren’t okay. The art of being is something largely lost to the society I was raised in, and I am grateful to have rediscovered my identity as a human being, not as a human-doing, thanks to the French.

3. Conviction is not offensive, it is necessary.

Being convicted of one’s perspective and needs is a part of French society. In customer service situations, it is downright necessary.  You can feel the conviction of the French people everywhere. Walking down the street, you’ll hear the young and the old alike use the word franchement (French for frankly) before launching into their perspective on any given subject. 

There is a confrontational forwardness present in the culture that is refreshing. The French love to “talk it out” and understand the way that those close to them think. I’ve witnessed many a French conversation that could seem like a heated argument resolve in continued, and strengthened friendship. Having been conditioned to not talk about disagreements as an American, this particularly strikes a chord with my understanding of relationships. In the last six months, I have become more acutely aware of the beauty that comes from hashing things out. 

4. Sit down and share.

If you want a drink, you should have it sitting down in the company of others. Water bottles do exist in France, but they are not widely used and are typically smaller than those found in the States. Coffee and tea to go is also a rather recent novelty, that again, is not widely adopted. Beverages and meals are not meant to be consumed quickly, but are rather rituals to facilitate encounters. 

My first meal after moving to France was had over a three-hour conversation in a café. And at the end the three hours, I still had to ask for the check. There is an expectation of slowness that provides the space to share not just coffee, nor merely an afternoon, but one’s very life. 

5. To do a little very well is better than to do a lot.

This mentality can be found in the art of specialty. Every town in France has at least one artisan for each craft of the table: la formagerie, la boucherie, la chocolaterie, la pâtisserie, and let us not forget the oh-so-essential boulangerie. There is a sacredness to the art of making that is protected culturally. Sure, you can get cheese and meat and bread from the supermarket, and perhaps for a cheaper price, but the best of the best is available for purchase just around the corner from the craftsmen themselves. 

This principle is even more evident at the local market. I’ve seen vendors with a singular (massive) wheel of cheese, sharing a piece of their months of work with their community. They’ve mastered one thing, and that’s enough. 

To some, the lessons I’ve learned may seem surprisingly simple, or obscenely obvious. My takeaways speak specifically to my experiences here and stateside. Another person in another town would naturally notice other differences according to their cultural palate.

I think if someone had proposed these ideas to me a year ago, I would have assented to them on a mental plane. But as someone raised in suburban America, my agreement would have been colored with a somewhat utilitarian vision of parks, stores and time. I look forward to carrying these ideas into the way I approach my day-to-day living as I continue to be a student of this lovely land. 

Photo of the pond in my neighborhood park.

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people waving french flags outside the louvre

Can I Move to France Without a Job?

With so many articles on visas, which one to choose, how to apply, how to renew, etc., we often get asked: but, can I move to France without a job?

The short answer is, no, you don’t need a job to move to France, but you do need to prove you can support yourself.

Good news for those who dream of moving here but assume that without a job offer, it’s impossible. While some visas do require employers’ sponsorship, there are many other paths for those without traditional employment.

Even more good news for retirees, freelancers, or someone with independent income.

Let’s dive into the key things to consider when moving to France without a job offer.

Do You Need a Job to Move to France?

Now that you know you don’t, it’s important to note that you must show the French authorities that you have some sort of financial stability before even stepping foot across the border. It makes sense: it may be a socialist country, but les français want reassurance that you won’t become a strain on the state when living here.

In fact, France’s immigration prioritizes financial stability more and more, whether through savings, passive income, or self-employment. If you can meet the financial and legal requirements, you can move to France without an employer sponsoring your stay.

Now, of course, some visa categories (such as employer-sponsored ones) do require a job offer. However, there are several other options available for those willing to plan ahead.

Visa Options for Moving to France Without a Job

1. Visitor Visa (Visa de Long Séjour – Visiteur)

Best for: Retirees, remote workers, individuals with passive income.

Requirements:

Key Consideration: This visa does not allow you to work in France, so you must have enough savings or remote income from outside the country. Contrary to popular belief, as an American, you can work remotely for a US employer while in France on the visitor visa 🙂

2. Profession Libérale Visa (Self-Employed Visa)

Best for: Freelancers, consultants, and business owners.

Requirements:

  • A detailed business plan demonstrating financial viability.
  • Proof of professional activity (e.g., contracts, invoices, website, portfolio).
  • Registration with URSSAF (the French social security system for self-employed workers).

Key Consideration: You must show that your business can generate enough income to support yourself over time, especially if you hope to renew and eventually apply for naturalization.

3. Student Visa

Best for: Those looking to study in France while exploring long-term residency options, those without access to a large amount of financial support and who are willing to go back to school, or folks who simply want to learn French in France.

Requirements:

Key Perk: This visa allows part-time work as well (up to 964 hours per year, around 20 hours per week), making it easier to support yourself while living in France.

4. Talent Passport (Passeport Talent)

Best for: Entrepreneurs, artists, researchers, and highly skilled professionals.

Requirements:

  • Proof of expertise or a recognized contribution in your field.
  • Financial stability and a viable business or research project.

Key Consideration: This visa is more selective — perhaps one of the most selective — but if you can land it, it offers one of the stronger paths to long-term residency and eventually citizenship.

How to Support Yourself in France Without a Job

While the cost of living in France is much lower than in the US, if you plan to move here without employment you’ll still need a reliable source of income — yes, in order to get your visa, but also to find a place to live and support yourself throughout your stay. You can’t forget about all of the travel and exploring you’ll want to do when you get here too.

If you plan to move to France without employment, here are some options that come to mind as well as the visas to go with them:

  • Savings: Many who aren’t too fussed about obtaining nationality one day choose the visitor visa, and a chunky savings account is the easiest way to prove financial means. Be prepared to share bank statements at your visa application appointment if you do go this route.
  • Freelancing or remote work: Consider finding a remote job in the US that is willing to allow you to live in France. Then, have your employer write a letter indicating you will not be working with French clients. Or, apply for the profession libérale visa if you’d prefer to have French and European clients.
  • Start a business: One of the more expensive and complicated ways to move to France. That said, if you have an entrepreneurial mindset you could come up with a plan to build a business in France and come over under the passeport talent.
  • Part-time work: Remember that student visa holders can work up to 20 hours per week, which can help supplement savings or support from family.

Whatever direction you choose, planning ahead is key. Again, you will be required to prove your financial situation at your visa interview, but beyond that, you want to be able to enjoy your séjour en France without having to stress about cash.

And if you need help coming up with a plan, please get in touch!

Photo by Alice Triquet on Unsplash

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fresh produce in baskets

How to Shop at an Outdoor Market in Paris

Visiting the marché is one of my favorite weekly activities, and I especially love going with either my French husband (a professional chef) or my French mother-in-law (an incredible cook herself). They seem to know exactly where to go, who to talk to, and what to choose. 

It’s almost as if they’ve lived here their whole lives… oh, wait.

Outdoor markets are a staple of daily life in France and Paris is no exception. You’ll find everything from farm-fresh produce to artisanal cheeses and even household goods, depending on where you go.

Shopping at an outdoor market in Paris is a must, whether you live here too or are just passing through. Here are a few things I wish I had known before going for the first time.

When to Go

Paris markets have specific opening times, so knowing when to go is the first step in planning your visit. Most operate two to three days a week, and the hours can vary from one market to another. Typically, they’re open in the morning and close by early afternoon — usually around 1 or 2pm.

I hate to say it for all of my fellow night owls, but to beat the crowds and get the best selection, you have to get there early in the morning when the vendors are just setting up. My mother-in-law lives and breathes by this. Oftentimes, if she can’t get there by 8am (her market opens at 7am), she won’t go at all. Quel est l’intérêt ? “What’s the point?” she’ll shrug when asked.

Now, there is a caveat to this if budget is a real concern. The other option would be to head out just before closing, as many vendors will be eager to clear out their stock before the next day — at reduced prices to boot.

To find the exact days and hours of the markets you’re interested in, check online or use the app Marcoo.

What Stalls to Expect

If you’ve never been to an outdoor market in Paris before, you’ll notice there’s a wide variety of stands that offer all kinds of things. Wandering through one is truly a feast for the senses — I don’t recommend shopping while you’re hungry or you may end up with a lot more than you originally planned for.

Here’s what you can typically find:

  • Seasonal fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
  • High-quality cuts of meat, poultry, fresh fish, and seafood.
  • A selection of French cheeses, farm-fresh eggs, and sometimes butter.
  • Freshly baked bread, pastries, and viennoiseries.
  • Rotisserie chicken, roasted potatoes, paella, and other prepared foods.
  • Olives, nuts, honey, jams, and spices.
  • Some also have stalls with flowers, kitchenware, linens, and apparel.

One of my top questions when shopping with my French fam is: how do you know which vendor to choose? There are often several stalls that sell the same or similar items… how can you tell which one is the best?

After insisting that, “Well I’ve been coming here so long I just know,” didn’t satisfy my curiosity, my husband broke it down a bit further.

Freshness and quality matter. Take a good look at the state of the produce — bright, vibrant colors and firm textures usually mean it’s fresh. Stalls with steady lines of locals are a great place to start, and if the vendors are talkative and friendly (yes, they exist in France) it’s also a good sign. Prices will vary, but steer clear of drastically lower ones as that could indicate, well, lower quality.

And, in the quintessentially French manner, the hubs says very simply that le feeling (the vibe, the ambiance) he gets when stepping in front of a stall determines where he’ll spend his money. 

I’ve somewhat stopped trying to understand what that really means, but that’s another story for another article.

How to Choose Your Produce

Shopping at a French market is different from grabbing groceries at a supermarket. Vendors take pride in their products, and bien sûr, there’s a bit of etiquette involved.

  • Look for seasonal produce: French markets focus on in-season fruits and vegetables, so don’t expect to find strawberries or tomatoes in December.
  • Check for quality: Remember to look for vibrant colors and firm textures, as well as fresh smells.
  • Know Thy Categories: Some markets label produce by origin — bio (organic), local, or imported. I typically go for the organic local stuff over anything imported, unless it’s from Spain, Italy, or another closeby country.
  • Let vendors choose for you: Unlike in the US, it’s considered rude to handle the produce yourself. Nothing against you or your cleanliness, but in France, interacting with the vendors is all a part of the experience. Tell them what you want, and they’ll pick the best items for you.
  • Ask for recommendations: They also know their products well. Don’t hesitate to ask which melon is the sweetest or what’s best for a recipe you have in mind.

The Best Outdoor Markets to Visit in Paris

There are more than a whopping 80 markets in Paris going on in a given week — from small neighborhood spots to sprawling marchés with stall after stall of goods. Here are a few of the most popular ones, plus one of my personal favorites:

  • Marché Bastille (75011): One of the biggest, with everything from organic produce to artisan bread.
  • Marché des Enfants Rouges (75003): The oldest covered market in Paris offers a mix of fresh produce, international foods, and one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever tried from Alain Miam Miam. Trust.
  • Marché d’Aligre (75012): Known for affordable produce and antiques.
  • Marché Raspail (75006): Great if you love organic food and other high-quality products.
  • Marché de la Place Monge (75005): My top choice for its intimate, small neighborhood feel and high-quality produce, fresh seafood, and cheeses. It’s right near the Arènes de Lutèce in the 5th arrondissement.

Before you walk out the door, make sure you have cash and reusable bags, and get ready to practice your French. A polite bonjour here and there will get you a really long way. So will a French friend, so bring one of those if you’ve got ‘em too.

Photo by Anurag Arora on Unsplash

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blue l'apéritif sign

The Ritual of the French Apéro

If you’ve spent an extended amount of time in France with actual French people, you know all about the ritual of the apéro — and that ritual is the best word to describe it.

Consistently splitting my time between the United States and France basically ever since I made my big move in 2014, I can’t help but notice and reflect on the cultural differences between Americans and French people. 

One of the many things that the French do right is their attitude around socializing, entertaining, and hosting. The French are inherently social whereas Americans (at least the ones I know and love) are fundamentally individualist — this comes out in so, so many ways — something I would have never figured out if I hadn’t committed to splitting my life in two amongst the two cultures.

After some extended time with my French in-laws over the holidays, it suddenly hit my I-spend-too-much-time-online millennial brain: did the French invent yapping? For my less chronically online readers, to yap is to chat, and boy do the French love to chit-chat. It’s totally normal for a group of friends to meet up around 5pm to begin apéro, only to part in the wee hours of the morning. And what did they do for the past eight or nine hours, you may ask? They talked. And enjoyed their apéro.

The Meaning and History of l’Apéro

Apéro is the colloquial version of the word apéritif, which comes from the Latin word aperire, meaning “to open.” It makes sense — l’apéro “opens” the meal and is meant to stimulate the appetite. 

In the past, apéritifs were herbal or medicinal drinks like fortified wine or bitter liqueurs designed to help digestion. This practice dates back to the Middle Ages, but it grew in popularity with the masses in the 19th century when drinks like vermouth, pastis, and Suze became widely available and enjoyed.

Over time, l’apéro evolved beyond a simple pre-dinner drink into a full-fledged social event. Now, that’s not to say that most French people have parties every night of the week before dinner. My in-laws usually have a beer along with some savory snacks like chips or pretzels (the only time I ever see them snack, really) before dinner when my husband and I come over. They still call it apéro, but it’s not as elaborate.

As the tradition grew, it transformed into a moment of relaxation, conversation, and conviviality that is deeply embedded in French culture. Unlike American happy hours, where discounted drinks and quick socializing are the name of the game, the French apéro is about slowing down, savoring the moment, and participating in some good old-fashioned existential conversation.

Whenever I have evening plans with my French friends, 99% of the time we’re having l’apéro at someone’s apartment. It’s an opportunity to débriefer our weeks, catch up on gossip, and spend time together. Everyone is responsible for bringing something to eat and drink, and it often turns into an apéro dinatoire, in which snack food becomes more substantial so we don’t have to worry about cooking a big meal.

The Unspoken Apéro Rules

As I already alluded to, l’apéro is not about getting as drunk as quickly as you can, so one of the first rules every American should heed is to pace yourself. This isn’t pregaming or predrinks. It’s sipping and savoring. I have never taken shots at l’apéro.

Another unspoken rule I briefly mentioned is that everyone is expected to show up with something. I’ve found this to be true at any French social engagement, and it’s something that isn’t as engrained into American culture: if you’re invited somewhere, you bring something along, even if no one asked you to. My French husband was appalled when I told him, “We don’t really do that in the States.” Now, even when we are in the US, we always bring a little gift and I’m honestly glad we do even though it’s not the norm. People appreciate it.

I digress. The next rule to abide by is to prepare yourself for constant conversation for several hours straight. As the more reserved, American person I am, I have to admit that by hour six or seven I’m usually ready to go home, whereas my husband could keep yapping along for another five. Topics range from things like what’s going on in our day-to-day lives, things we got up to over the week, what’s going on at work, to politics, religion, and, yes, existential topics like life, death, and what happens next. I’m not kidding or exaggerating at all — this level of depth is what I like most about the French, and you really see it come out at l’apéro.

I think the last unspoken rule is to respect the ritual. Again, l’apéro is not a pregame for a wild night out and when done right you shouldn’t have a headache the next morning. It’s a moment to relax after a long day or week, to catch up with friends, family, and loved ones, to enjoy a great glass of wine, to share good conversation, and to bask in the fact that you are where you are without any other place to be. 

I don’t think we have anything like it in the US. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong.

Photo by Etienne Girardet on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

rue cler street sign

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 7th Arrondissement

Home of undoubtedly the most famous Parisian landmark (she peeks out from the Haussmannian buildings to say coucou), the 7th arrondissement certainly does not get skipped by tourists.

But, this Left Bank quartier boasts so much more than the Eiffel Tower. You’ll also find the Orsay, Les Invalides, the Musée du Quai Branly, Le Bon Marché, and plenty of other less famous monuments, attractions, and sites to see.

Like the 6th arrondissement, I spent a lot of time here when I was a student. The 7th abuts the 6th and it’s easy to lose yourself, forgetting where les frontières begin and end. It’s relatively quiet and residential (once you get out of Madame Eiffel’s neighborhood), and as such is a wonderful place for a stroll.

If you’ve never explored the 7th at length, or are wondering if you may have missed something the first time around, this guide outlines exactly what there is to see, do, and eat.

The Eiffel Tower and Champs de Mars

I won’t spend too much time going over the Iron Lady — I’m assuming most TAIP readers have already visited. But, there are some fun facts that bear repeating to keep up your sleeves the next time someone is in town and you’re looking for something to do.

Built for the 1889 Paris Exposition and designed by Gustave Eiffel, it was actually quite controversial at the time. For starters, it was bright red and many feared it would dominate the city with its height and color. Many Parisians thought it was too expensive, and they also rejected it as a symbol of modernization.

Today the Tower is of course celebrated as the symbol of Paris — if not France — around the world. It’s close to 1,000 feet tall and 2.5 million rivets hold it together. It’s surrounded by the Champs de Mars gardens, which are usually teeming with tourists and picnickers alike, especially as it gets warmer and the sun starts setting later. If you do decide to picnic, grab une tradition from the PariSeven Boulangerie. Trust me.

There are several playgrounds, a merry-go-round, and a puppet theater for those with children. It’s also a wonderful place to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle once the sun does go down.

Les Invalides

Here you’ll find the Army Museum and Napoleon’s comically enormous tomb, as well as sections of the area that are still used by the French military today. This was actually one of my last-explored monuments when I initially moved to Paris as I’m not that interested in military pomp and circumstance, but even I have to admit that it’s impressive.

The Dôme church where Napoleon is laid to rest has a beautiful interior and the massive gold dome itself is just as striking up close. There are also several fountains outside of the Invalides’ main building worth noting — Napoleon had them designed to compete with those in Rome.

I spend the most time here in the summer months as the grass lawns are open to the public and tend to be less crowded than the Champs de Mars, and less dirty than the riverside paths along the Seine. It’s also an excellent place to watch the fireworks on Bastille Day; again, it’s a lot less chaotic and crowded than squishing into the Champs gardens.

More Museums

I would be remiss not to mention all of the other museums in the 7th arrondissement:

  • Musée d’Orsay: One of my favorite Parisian museums by far, the Orsay is housed in a former railway station. Visit for its collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterpieces by Monet, Van Gogh, Degas, and more.
  • Musée Rodin: Another one of my preferred places to spend an afternoon, this museum is dedicated to the iconic French sculptor Auguste Rodin. Visit to see The Thinker and The Kiss in an 18th-century mansion with an equally beautiful garden.
  • Musée du quai Branly: Outfitted with an impressive vertical garden, the Branly highlights the indigenous art and cultures from Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas. 
  • Musée Maillol: Tucked away in a Parisian townhouse and dedicated to the artist Aristide Maillol, here you’ll find a collection of sculptures, paintings, and prints.
  • Musée National Eugène Delacroix: Once the home and studio of Eugène Delacroix (whose works can also be seen in the Louvre), this museum displays the artist’s paintings, drawings, and personal objects.

Rue Cler

Similar to the rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement, the rue Cler is a market street lined with cafés, boulangeries, fromageries, and specialty food shops. It’s pedestrian-friendly as well, so you don’t have to worry about getting run over while you peruse the shops filled with high-quality, fresh, and often local ingredients.

You can find anything from artisan cheeses and cured meats to flower stalls, gourmet chocolate, and wine. I usually head here when I get invited to a dinner party — I always feel good bringing along something fresh. Go to La Fromagerie Cler for cheese and Pralus for chocolate and pastries and you can’t go wrong.

Le Bon Marché

Finally, another place in the septième that’s perfect for strolling is none other than Le Bon Marché, the city’s oldest and arguably most stylish department store. It’s full of designer clothing (and people who like to buy designer clothing) and even carries items for the home. If you’re willing to splurge, it’s worth a stop. And if you’re not, it’s great people-watching.

It’s also home to the Grande Épicerie, a sprawling food hall. They carry everything from fresh seafood, cheese, and charcuterie to pastries and fine wines. The few times I have bought things from Le Bon Marché, they always came from the épicerie section. Again, they make for great gifts.

There are even places you can pick up sandwiches, specialty coffee, or other prepared foods if you’re craving something a little more luxe for a picnic. 

As with all of our neighborhood guides, this is just an overview of all there is to see in the 7th arrondissement in Paris. Give yourself a morning or afternoon to wander the streets yourself. You never know what you may see.

Photo by Tim Wildsmith on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

How to Spend a Day in Lyon

Only a 2-hour train ride from Paris, Lyon is a great city for exploring the southeastern side of France. With an accessible airport, well-connected train stations, and an exceptional metro, I’d argue that it is the most visitor-friendly city in the country. 

Living in the South myself, I’m grateful to have this beacon of civilization within arm’s reach. In the past six months alone, I’ve had the opportunity to meet up with three friends passing through Lyon, each on separate occasions.

The first person to show me around the city was a true Lyonnais. I’ve used his blueprint of how to spend a day there on multiple occasions, with little tweaks and variations along the way. If you haven’t explored this ancient city yet, let this be your sign; now is the time.

How to Get Around

You don’t need to wait in line for a metro pass, hassle with an app, or keep track of tickets. Simply scan your touchless payment method (card or phone) at the entry of any public transport and you’re good to go. This applies to all busses, lifts, undergrounds, and trams. It is by far my favorite part about Lyon’s transportation system.

Start at Place Belle-Cœur

In the heart of the city, this square offers a variety of shops and an impressive view of the Fourvière Basilica to the west (your next stop). Surrounded by shops and alleys to get lost in, this uptown center puts its best foot forward. During my most recent trip, I was introduced to La Procure St. Paul, an enchanting bookstore in the plaza with an impressive selection of philosophy and children’s literature. 

Begin the Ascent

After a little browsing, make your way out of the square and across the Saône River on the Bonaparte Bridge. Take in the view on your way. Continue straight to the entrance for the funiculaire. This metropolitan lift offers a direct ride to the foot of the Fourvière Basilica. Scan your touchless payment method at the entrance and be on your way up. 

The Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Spectacular in every sense, this basilica is sure to take your breath away. But before entering, follow along the left side to take a look out at the entire city. The two rivers that divide it, the Saône and the Rhône, can be seen from this vantage point. You’ll also notice the sea of red rooftops, a hallmark of Lyon.

Return to the front to enter the Basilica and brace yourself for more beauty. While inside, don’t miss the crypt entrance inside of the church on the right. 

The Gallo Roman Theatre

When you’re ready to move, take a five-minute walk to the neighboring Roman ruins. This open-air theater is free to explorers. Make your way down from top to bottom. For true history enthusiasts, the Lugdunum Museum offers more on its archeological findings.

Ready to head back down the hill, I’d suggest taking another ride on the funicular. The F1 line, just next to the theater, will take you directly to the Vieux Lyon (old town). On exiting the metro, turn left.

Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste

While in old town, a stop inside the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is indispensable. This magnificent building is home to an astronomical clock, at the end of the left wing. Tracking not only the time, but the years, the days, and the moon, it is a work of art in and of itself. I recommend landing there on the hour, to have the privilege of its full display.

Continuing straight through the square will take you down to the center of the old city.

Old Lyon

This cobblestoned corner is designed for the pedestrian. Riddled with restaurants and shops, Vieux Lyon is an excellent area for getting lunch and spending an afternoon. Cultural references to the city’s history are around every turn — marionette puppets, Lyon’s own Antoine of Saint-Exupéry’s Le Petit Prince, and odes to cinema, to name a few. 

With the invention of the Lumière cinematograph in 1885, Lyon was ground zero for the reproduction of moving images and the movie industry as we know it today. The Cinema and Miniature Museum, as well as the Lumière Museum, offer cinematic histories to true movie fans.

Having walked the breadth of old town, you can cross back to the city’s center on the Feuillée Bridge. This road will lead you directly to Lyon’s city hall. 

Hôtel de Ville and the National Opera of Lyon

Lyon’s city hall is an iconic spot, surrounded by cafés and restaurants centered around the celebrated Bartholdi Fountain. Just around the corner lies the National Opera. For the more courageous, head to its panoramic terrace for a drink — no reservations needed.

Let the Adventure Continue

In a city as vibrant and expansive as Lyon, this proposed itinerary just barely touches the surface of all there is to see and do. There are many theaters, experiences, and museums to explore that I have not had the pleasure of visiting. There’s even a zoo! Don’t be afraid to follow your nose and forge your own path around this lively metropolis.

Photo from my first proper trip to Lyon in 2024. 

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The Museum Passes for the Louvre and the Orsay

One of the oldest articles for this blog is one I wrote on the Paris Museum Pass and whether you should get it when visiting as a tourist. My answer then and now is: only get it if you’re really into art.

That idea of being “really into art” segues nicely into today’s topic, which will cover the two museum annual passes that I have held at different times, the Amis du Louvres and the Orsay’s Carte Blanche. You used to have to go in person to get the cards the first time, but the Orsay has since introduced digital membership and renewal, and the Louvre is in the process of doing both, I think.

Some of the marketing behind such passes is that you will have “broken even” on the cost for these annual passes on the 2nd or 3rd visit. But I think that marketing misses the point entirely. Do not get these passes if you are only going to go to the Louvre or the Orsay a few times in a year. I recommend these cards for those who are going to go a minimum of 12 times in a year. Hear me out.

People save money and wait years so that they can come to these museums sometimes once in their lives. As a resident of the city, and someone who loves art, and has easy access to go during times that are not crowded for a bargain basement price, you’d be silly to pass up on these cards. Let me share a few reasons why you should consider getting them.

You Get to See the Whole Place

While the Orsay can be seen, from start to finish, in one long day, it will take you weeks to accomplish the same thing in the Louvre. Why stress yourself out when you can see both museums at your own pace, dividing your visits into floors and wings, spending an hour or so seeing what you want to see, and then getting out? While you could see the entire Orsay over 2-3 leisurely visits, it took me 10 well-planned visits to see all of the Louvre.

You’ll never do this without a plan, so before you buy these, designate a day you’ll go (e.g. 3rd Thursdays, 2nd Saturdays) and just block that out for the rest of the year. People who just say, “Oh, I’ll go sometime” never end up using these cards.

Exhibitions are Free

Those special rotating temporary exhibitions that everyone else has to pay for? Those are included in your subscriptions. Just flash your card and get your ticket. You’re never confined only to the permanent exhibitions. Even better, with the Amis du Louvre card you get discounts at other museums and with the Carte Blanche you get free access to the Orangerie anytime. The Carte Blanche also offers a discount at the bookstore, while the Amis du Louvre gives a 10% discount in the Carrousel, the mall built under the Louvre.

You Can Bring a Friend

The Orsay used to allow you to bring a friend for free on Wednesday nights. They seem to have removed that benefit but added a new ongoing benefit of entry 30 minutes early (that’s a treat!) as well as “duo” cards which always allow you to bring an additional person with you anytime. The Amis du Louvre card has always allowed free entry on Friday nights (a fantastic time to go, I’ve taken many a friend during this time slot when the weary tourists have given up and have cleared out) even if you only have a solo card. Indeed, if you have a “duo” Amis du Louvre card you’re probably allowed to bring two friends with you.

You Will Sink Into the Art

When you become as familiar with these museums as the layout of your own home, you get to enter into the art in a way that so few can. How many times have I sat and simply people-watched in front of David’s Coronation of Napoleon, one of the largest paintings in the Louvre, and one which is a spectacular accomplishment of memory (and propaganda), and simply enjoyed watching people encounter this canvas for the first time? More than I can remember.

Something else I really enjoyed doing was engaging my friends in conversation to purposely distract them while we were coming up on the staircase that houses Winged Victory. When I knew it was about to come into view, I’d casually say, “Oh, what’s that?” and bask in the pleasure of seeing people take in their breaths as they see a piece of art presented in a stunning manner. We’d then be able to talk more about it as we got closer and I’d quiz them about which wing on the statue is original and which had been reconstructed (you can tell…just take your time looking).

Just as when you revisit great books or films, you’ll find something new, so it is with great art. I’ve gained so many insights just sitting with paintings, sculptures, and objets d’art in an unhurried manner.

You’ll notice that I don’t list “save money” as one of the reasons to get these because that’s not why you’re buying them. You’re buying them for the kind of access that people around the world dream of, and people in Paris take for granted, but you have decided to invest in, on your own behalf (and of your friends), to get serious about the treasures in these museums. You may not renew after a year of access (indeed, I only held both of these cards for one year) but that year that you hold them is going to be a special one.

Photos of my cards.

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My Favorite Food App in Paris (and Europe): Too Good to Go

As we all know, the French take their food very seriously. But it might not be as well known that they take food waste pretty seriously as well. In 2016 they passed a law that banned large grocery stores from throwing away unsold food that could be donated to charities. Think produce, bread, milk, yogurt. Whenever you see expiration dates there will often be an “anti-gaspi” (anti-waste) section in the store where people can find great deals on products that in a few days will otherwise be donated to charity. Even better, in a country that isn’t known for creating public-private partnerships that win, the law provides a tax break, up to 60%, on the inventory value of the donated food. There are so many wins in this value chain:

  • consumers who are willing to buy products that are close to expiration (most products are good for 5-6 days beyond their expiration) save money
  • supermarkets who donate this food get a tax break
  • NGOs get a reliable source of donations
  • homeless (known in France as SDF) and other economically impacted people get help they need

Even with laws like this in place, France wastes about 18% of its food. Any guesses as to what America wastes? Leave your guesses in the comments.

The Danes Step In

I love hearing about idealistic young entrepreneurs who set out to solve a problem with a business. In this particular case I want to recognize them by name because I so appreciate what they’ve done:

  • Thomas Bjørn Momsen
  • Stian M. H. Olesen
  • Klaus Bagge Pedersen
  • Lucie Basch
  • Jamie Crummie

Back in 2016 they put their heads together to find a solution for the wasted food in buffet restaurants in Denmark. So they created an app that would connect food businesses with people who were willing to buy surplus food.

The concept is simple. I’ll use a boulangerie as that’s the most frequent use-case for me in Paris. The boulangerie advertises as a “surprise bag” which may have anywhere from 8-18 items in it. They can price it at anywhere from $3.99-$5.99. They then specify a pickup window, say from 18h00-20h00. You buy it in the app, show a code when you arrive at the boulangerie, and they pack up a bunch of stuff for you that they didn’t sell and would otherwise have probably given away to friends and family, but now make at least some money from due to the app. You’re also encouraged to bring along your own bags to help minimize the costs of the business owner. Win-win-win.

I’ve often used this app when tasked as the person bringing bread to a dinner party. Not only will I have plenty of baguettes (and sometimes other gourmet breads) but I have extra croissants and pain au chocolats that I then gift to friends to take home, usually telling them about the app in the process.

The app now runs in 18 countries across Europe and is slowly spreading in America. It has 95 million registered users as of the date of this article and 160,000 partnered businesses.

And just like that, a problem created by capitalism and its endless search for growth has a solution, all because some people decided to do more than talk. Neither the French food law nor the Danish app is perfect, but together, they are helping all of us with that necessary challenge we all face every day: what to eat (and how to pay for it).

You can find Too Good to Go in the US Apple App Store here and on Android here.

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My First (and Possibly Last) Brocante

I’ve strolled past dozens of brocantes (antique fairs) in my decade in France, but it was only last month that I finally had a mission which took me to one as a participant, not just as a passer-by.

I often tell friends that it’s important to commemorate milestones as you get older. When you’re younger perhaps your family or your superiors will do it for you (a graduation, a promotion) but later in life your achievements and milestones can and should be marked in some way. I tend to do this with a gift which I would ordinarily not have bought for myself, but justified because of an achievement. For example, after a month studying French in the Alps I bought myself a Mondaine Swiss Railways watch. I’ve loved the design since the first summer I spent in Switzerland (2014) and was mesmerized by seeing the railway clocks at all the platforms I stood on. It wasn’t until 2018, four years later, that I “decided” to mark my quantum leap forward in French that I made in the Alps with this gift for myself.

That brings us to my citizenship interview of a couple of months ago and a desire to mark the end of several parts of various journeys. I have loved the classic designs of Saint James for some time now, but have put off buying one of their sweaters (jumpers, my dear UK readers) due to cost. Good, long-lasting clothing does cost more, and I’m not hesitant to pay for such clothing, but perhaps I was waiting for an occasion, and acing my citizenship interview called for one.

And yet, I wondered if I might not be able to pick up the design I wanted at any of the used clothing stores in Paris or at Vinted or Le Bon Coin. A quick search didn’t yield anything in my size for the designs I was looking for, and I didn’t want to put in the time looking through the racks at used clothing stores, even with the easy-to-spot marinière design I was looking for.

“There’s a brocante in the Marais this weekend,” an artsy friend shared. Curious, I thought “why not” and planned on a speed tour of this sprawling event.

But “speed” and “brocante” don’t go together. At all.

I felt very much in the minority. Many people were unhurriedly moving from stall to stall, sometimes nursing a drink or a cigarette. They weren’t sure what they were looking for (if they were looking for anything) but they would know it when they found it. I, on the other hand, was on a mission. I was only looking for vendors selling clothes, men’s clothes, featuring sweaters, in marinière design, from Saint James.

I did move fairly quickly, but still managed to enjoy the rhythms of everyone else around me. I realized about halfway through my hour of diligent perusal that Saint James sweaters aren’t often for sale because people like them so much and as such, keep them.

So, I wouldn’t have my story of finding that sweater and bargaining for it with one of the vendors (all of whom seemed to carry that look of effortless chic necessary to haul out a bunch of “junk” and sell it to hordes of Parisians). But I would still have my sweater, after all.

I made my way to the pocket Saint James store a few streets over and tried on two different styles of the design I was looking for, one a bit more fitted (the traditional version) and the other a bit looser. I really liked both but ended up with the traditional Matelot (no surprise there) and really appreciated the attentiveness and suggestions of the team at this location.

Why are Parisians so fascinated by brocantes? Dozens of reasons, I’m sure, but the main ones are:

  • the chance to find that one item that fits their personality and would add an element of charm to their apartment or office
  • to stroll with friends and while away an afternoon
  • to look for something specific

And while I did not find what I wanted at a brocante, I finally figured out, by experience, just why so many people frequent them. If you’re near one, don’t miss this quintessential French experience.

Photo taken on Rue de Bretagne, just a few steps away from the former Mairie of the 3rd arrondissement, now, along with the 1st, 2nd, and 4th arrondissements, simply known as “Paris Centre.” Notice you can slurp down an oyster on a break from your antique shopping. 🙂

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french author allan kardec's grave in pere lachaise cemetery

Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 20th Arrondissement, Part 2

Note from the editor: Be sure to read Paris Neighborhood Guide: the 20th Arrondissement, Part 1 if you haven’t already — MS

In 1859, the 20th arrondissement was the last of the outlying neighborhoods to be integrated into Paris. It is the highest of the Paris arrondissements and is even higher than Montmartre — the reason the first telegraph was built here and why the metro stop nearby has been named “Télégraphe.” 

Here I have been living for most of my Paris life and have no plans of moving until I go out feet first, and even then considering that Père Lachaise cemetery is also located in this arrondissement, I hope to stay around.

Père Lachaise and a Little-known Cemetery

Père Lachaise is the 20th arrondissement’s most famous and visited landmark. The cemetery is enormous and is worth an afternoon’s walk. It is built on a hill, with the main entrance on the rue de Repos at the highest point near the Gambetta metro station. The Père Lachaise metro station is at the lowest point on the boulevard Mesnilmontant. To plan a visit to the resting place of the celebrities buried here it is recommended to have a map of the cemetery. An official map of graves is free to take at the Conservation Center inside the cemetery near the Mesnilmontant entrance. Many maps are also available online.

Graves are scattered throughout the cemetery with no division among religion or nationality. On the other hand, there is a section reserved for homage to those murdered in the concentration camps of World War II and to those who died during the Commune

Among the many famous buried here are Edith Piaf, Yves Montand and Simone Signoret, Balzac, Sarah Bernhardt Alain Kardec the spiritist… the avenue where Delacroix is buried is named after him. Once I had an enlightening morning on a tour of Proust and his friends, along with those who served as the exemplars of his characters. 

Women had been kissing the Sphinx sculpture on Oscar Wilde’s grave, dirtying it with their lipstick marks in the hope of having a wish come true, for years. Ultimately, the tomb was cleaned up and a plexiglass protection was put in front of it to keep it clean. Lipstick kiss marks are now to be found on the easily cleaned plexiglass protection. 

Sadly, Jim Morrisson’s tomb is surrounded by barriers and you cannot get very close. When I first visited it in 1980 on a sunny, untouristic weekday, autumn afternoon, I found two guys having a picnic on his tomb. I wished them “bon appétit” and continued my tour. I do not think he would like to know that he has been so isolated from his fans.

Looking at the names and dates can be amusing: on my first visit, I found a Mr. Boney. Unfortunately, this was long before digital cameras so I have no picture and no idea where to find him now.  

From an art point of view, there are beautiful constructions of chapel-sized monuments with stained glass and handsome sculptures to appreciate.

On the subject of cemeteries, the Église St Germain is the last church in Paris to still have a cemetery attached to it. A pleasant visit will take you up and up from the rue de Bagnolet to the rue Stendahl and to the entrance of the Ferme de Charonne

La Petite Ceinture

This is the name of the former railway line that went around Paris. In various areas of the outer arrondissements of the city, the abandoned tracks are still visible. The land has been left fallow for the sake of bio-diversity and, where open, the track lines are inviting areas for a stroll. For the moment it is not possible to follow the former track line uninterruptedly around the city but it is exactly to this end that the association promeneurs de la Petite Ceinture are battling for.

The tracks are visible in three different areas of the 20th arrondissement. From street level over a bridge on the rue Menilmontant, they can be viewed and then accessed by a stairway at number 79 or by the stairless but sloping street at 11 Rue de la Mare. Just before the liberation of Paris, the French resistance attacked two Nazi trains and forced the soldiers to surrender at precisely this section of track. 

Over the tracks, at 102 bis rue de Bagnolet La Fleche d’or cultural center has taken up residence in the former Gare de Charonne station of La Petite Ceinture. The tracks can be seen from an inside window above, but there is no access down.

A second access to the abandoned railway is through the recently created Jardin de la gare de Charonne. An easy entrance through the park toward the tracks for those with reduced mobility and prohibited bicycles (but…) is at 63 boulevard Davout. 

Waterways

Another curiosity is the vestiges of an underground medieval water system permitting water to flow down from the higher hamlets of Mesnilmontant and Belleville in the east of Paris into the city. Two of the small structures built to monitor water flow and quality as well as the workings of the system can still be seen. On the rue des Cascades, just at the corner of the rue de Savies stands the Regard St Martin. Right next to it is the staircase street rue Fernand Raynaud, which runs along the Jardin des Petites Rigoles from the rue des Cascades to the rue de l’Hermitage. In a far corner of this tiny park can be perceived the Petite Rigole, a particularly small,  fenced-in water monitoring structure (un)reachable via a locked staircase. 

Guided tours of the arrondissement’s waterways are sometimes offered by the association AHAV, (Association d’Histoire et d’Archéologie du Vingtième Arrondissement) for members only, during the year and the Journées du Patrimoine for the general public. 

Art

At the corner of Mesnilmontant and Pyrénées street is the town hall’s free cultural center, Le  Pavillon du Carré de Baudouin. Before entering through the small garden, its outside walls typically host a photography exhibit. Inside, it accommodates an art gallery and an auditorium. Here can be seen art linked to the 20th arrondissement, whether by theme or by the artist’s attachment to the quarter.  The auditorium serves as a place for free talks and films. 

Tucked away on the little street for which it is named, the Espace Monte Cristo houses wonderful themed exhibitions centered around the Collection Fondation Villa Datris whose main and sister institution is located in the south of France in the Vaucluse départemement somewhat east of Avignon. Exhibitions are always free and the guided tours offer significant insight into the chosen theme, the artworks, and the artists who created them. Besides works from the Datris collection, the exhibitions often include works lent from collectors, galleries, and the artists themselves. Most of the works on temporary display are by living artists who sometimes offer a hand to install their works.  

Le Grand Belleville brings together a young community of art to be found in the 19th, 20th, and 11th arrondissements.

In the 20th there are two emerging galleries to be found. The Crevecoeur gallery is located in a lovely courtyard with its own patio sporting tables and chairs. The gallery space is luminous on a sunny day with its skylights and picture windows. The Marcelle-Alix gallery, just off the rue de Belleville offers installations and other works on its ground floor and a basement that can be reached by a wonderful staircase, which has mirrored floors as landings. There, when I admitted that I was not much into installations,  I was informed that this art has been around for the past 50 years. Not far, on rue Francis Picabia is the “Atelier des Artistes.” 

Once a year, typically in May, the artists of the Belleville area celebrate Portes Ouvertes. On this weekend they open the doors to their studios whereby the general public can come, visit, see (and purchase if they like) the artists’ works. 

Albeit somewhat removed from Paris’ illustrious center, this seldom-visited arrondissement has much to contribute to the city’s culture.

Photo of French author and educator Allan Kardec’s grave taken in Père Lachaise cemetery.

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.