Life in France

The Secret of the South: Le Puy-en-Velay

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“Le Puy-en-what?” This is often the response I receive when asked where I am living in France. Even many of my French friends from other regions of the country are unfamiliar with it.

As I write during my return flight to the US for the summer, I can tell you that just this morning a French travel inspector in Paris asked me what I had been doing in France and where I was going. I explained that I had been teaching English in a town called Le Puy-en-Velay. She seemed convinced I made it up, until I explained where it is on a map. 

Two hours south of Clermont-Ferrand and two hours west of Lyon, you could say it is in the middle of nowhere. I fell in love with Le Puy-en-Velay on my arrival, but what I didn’t realize then is that I was far from the first to be taken by the charm of this little village in the valley. While visiting the Orsay Museum in Paris last year, I stumbled across not one but two different works of art depicting scenes from my new town. After stumbling across the second, I remember thinking, “Okay, maybe I’m not crazy for loving this place.” 

Decidedly picturesque, Le Puy (as it is called for short) is riddled with impressive monuments and little alleys. Tucked in the heart of the French countryside, this medieval starting place for the Camino de Santiago has attracted artists and pilgrims seeking respite for centuries. This peaceful region, once dominated by volcanic activity, is now a haven of striking rock formations and ancient history. 

If it’s So Great, Why is it Still a Secret? 

Le Puy is not well connected by public transit. It’s relatively far from bigger cities, and even trains to Clermont and Lyon are not direct. Most locals have cars and visitors would be most comfortable renting one for an extended stay. The perk of this inconvenience is that the town has remained quiet and protected from the casual passerby. 

But as you may note by the grandeur of its Cathedral or its medieval architecture, there was a time this quiet town wasn’t so quiet. 

What to See

Notre Dame de France

When coming into Le Puy, the statue of Our Lady of France may just catch your eye. She’s situated on the center peak of town, and at night she casts a glow over the whole city. Made with the metal of 213 cannons taken from the Russians during the Crimean War, the statue was gifted to the city of Le Puy en Velay by Napoleon III in 1860. It was the tallest statue in the world until it was surpassed by the Statue of Liberty. I’ll remind you that it was a gift to the US from France. 

Cathedral du Puy

A famous site for pilgrimage since the 400s, its varied architecture reveals a history of construction over the centuries. Even Charlemagne made multiple visits to the Cathedral in the 8th century, and Isabelle Romée (the mother of Joan of Arc) made an appearance in 1429. Every morning from April to October, the Cathedral offers a send-off blessing for those embarking on the Camino de Santiago. I don’t want to give too much away, but I will say the “trap door” opening at the end is impressive. 

St. Michel’s Rock & Chapel

Come for the views, stay for the culture. The construction of this chapel in the sky was approved by Bishop Godesclac, the first person to walk to Santiago from outside of Spain in 961. A stone staircase of 268 steps brings you from the access road to its Romanesque entrance. A small museum kept by Le Puy’s office of tourism recounts the geographic anomaly of the mountain before you make your way up. 

St. Joseph of Good Hope Sanctuary

Built on the site of a chateau fortress in 1910, this Basilica provides a magnificent panoramic view of the valley (as pictured). Inside the church, a colorful tapestry behind the altar depicts the life of this remarkable saint. Pilgrims can visit a cave chapel beneath the statue, or even step inside the statue itself as of its reopening in 2025. 

Enjoy Nature

Surrounded by rich landscapes, Le Puy-en-Velay offers no shortage of excursions for nature lovers. Picture perfect lakes, off-the-path waterfalls, colorful mountains and a suspended forest bridge are all within an hour’s drive away. I’ll leave a list of recommendations here. 

When to Come

I may have lived here through the winter, but I can vouch that Le Puy shines in the summer. Literally, the whole town is illuminated at night from July to September. With a higher elevation, the region can see snowfall from late fall to early spring. Most of the tourist sites close or have very limited hours from October to March, so I would recommend coming outside of this window. Thanks to the market in the town center, Saturday mornings have become my favorite moment of the week. If you can swing being here during a weekend, you may have more fun.

Now, if you’re looking to celebrate with the locals, every year the town hosts a candlelit procession to the Cathedral on August 15th. This holiday in the French calendar marks the Assumption of Mary into heaven. Though I haven’t had the privilege of witnessing the celebration myself, many have told me this is a sight to see. 

Ever dreamed of living in the middle ages, or wondered what that would be like? Le Puy has hosted a renaissance festival called the Roi de l’Oiseau for over 40 years. The third weekend of September, the town transforms into a medieval village. My first week in town happened to land at this time and the spirit of imagination in the air was mesmerizing. Hotels and hostels fill up, so be sure to book early. 

Every November Le Puy hosts a weekend of hot air balloon lift-offs. This is not a cheap way to see the city, but I’ve heard it is magnificent. The town becomes magical as colorful spots fill the sky. My jaw dropped on the sidewalk when I stepped out of work and saw this surprise last year.

Should I Visit?

Now I’m not saying Le Puy should be your first place to visit in France, maybe not even your fifth. It’s pretty hard to get here, so you’ll likely have to stop at a few other cities on the way. However, if you’re looking to explore the countryside and can swing a central France getaway, I’m glad that this little gem is now on your radar. 

Learn more about Le Puy’s history and upcoming events at its official tourism website.

Photo of Le Puy-en-Velay taken on film from the viewpoint of St. Joseph’s Sanctuary

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French Etiquette 101

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When I first moved to France, many things surprised me initially. Most were pleasant — you mean I can order a 2€ coffee and sit at the same table undisturbed for hours on end? I can go grocery shopping without having to inspect every ingredient list? I can take a leisurely, 1-hour lunch break, and that’s the norm?

Then, there were things I wasn’t expecting, and most of those are wrapped up in the world of French Etiquette. It’s its own cultural code, and coming from the US, some of these social rules might surprise you, like they surprised me.

Where Americans value friendliness (real or not), casual conversation, and a general “easygoing” type of vibe, the French prefer formality, precision, and specific boundaries when it comes to social situations. As an American married to a French person, I’ll let you imagine just how many awkward moments I’ve found myself in over the years.

Some parts of French etiquette I really love and respect, and I look forward to raising my future children with many of its values. On the other hand, some others that make you feel like you’re living in a world since long passed — and I’m happy to blame my I’m-a-foreigner naïveté when I choose not to participate in them.

Understanding these differences can help you avoid awkward moments and start off on the right foot. I knew nothing before moving to France — allow me to help you not make the same mistakes I did.

Start Every Conversation with Bonjour

One way to be perceived as the rude American is to walk into a shop without saying bonjour as soon as you enter. The same goes for passing a neighbor in the hallway or just starting a conversation with someone. You should always begin with a bonjour during the day, or a bonsoir in the evening. 

Skipping this can come across as very abrupt and yes, rude. Even a quick trip to the bakery starts with bonjour, madame/monsieur — and only after saying that should you place your order.

The fact that this is not the norm in the US always shocks my French husband — he would never dream of entering a public place without a greeting. 

Use Formal Titles First

This is something else that doesn’t always occur in the States. Americans like to be on a “first-name basis” right away, but in France, it’s the opposite: formality is the default.

Always address new acquaintances (if they’re significantly older than you), shopkeepers, and service providers/professionals as madame or monsieur until they tell you otherwise. In my experience, even most French people find this to be a bit old-fashioned, and they will often tell you to call them by their first name after the first drop of a formal title. But it’s not considered polite to jump in without a little formality first.

The same goes for written communication. Whether it’s an email or a letter, begin formally and wait for cues before moving into a more casual tone.

It’s Vous until They Say So

One of the biggest differences between French and English is the whole tu vs. vous discussion. Tu is the informal you, while vous is the formal version, which shows respect. Unless you’re speaking to a child, someone your own age, or a person you know very well, always start with vous.

Switching to tu too soon can seem overfamiliar or even disrespectful, especially for the older generation. Let the French person make the first move if they decide they want to “tutoyer” instead of “vous voyez.”

This is something my French family doesn’t really hold me to — I do try my best to vous voyez everyone until they tell me otherwise, but often I don’t know what form is the correct one to use. 

The general rule is: if you don’t know them or they’re older than you, it’s always vous. I usually just follow my husband’s lead. I have been on the receiving end of some strange looks when I tutoyer right away without really thinking about it. But, it’s often followed up by a comment like, “Oh, I forgot in English you don’t have the same rules,” and I’m forgiven.

But, when in doubt? Vous voyez is the move.

Mind Your Table Manners

French dining culture is another world all its own. If you’re invited to a meal, here are some basics I would keep in mind:

  • Never show up right on time to a dinner party. 5-15 minutes late is expected.
  • Never start eating until everyone is served and the host says bon appétit.
  • Always trinquer (cheers) with everyone present before taking a sip of your drink.
  • Need a refill? Serve everyone else first.
  • Use your utensils for everything; eating with your hands (even pizza or fruit) is considered rude.
  • When it comes to digging into the cheese plate, follow the host’s lead. Or do what I do and just ask someone else to cut it for you because it’s too much pressure.
  • Don’t clear away any dishes until everyone is done eating.
  • Offer to help clean up.

Don’t Overshare

Something I discovered early on in France is that personal information is revealed slowly, over time. Asking too many questions about someone’s job, salary, or family life too early in a conversation can feel invasive to the French.

Small talk isn’t the same as it is in the US either. The French don’t tend to chat casually with strangers at the grocery store or on public transportation. Once you build a relationship, yes, conversations can go very deep — often much deeper than what I’ve experienced in the States — but until then, privacy is important.

My husband and I talk about this all the time. Say you’re out at a bar and you meet an American. Suddenly, you’re their “new best friend,” and “OMG, we definitely need to hang out, I love you so much!” But, will you ever see that person again? Probably not, they were just being friendly, fake or not. Any information they may have shared was likely very surface-level and a whole lot of fluff.

Conversely, making casual friends with a French person is much more difficult, and they would never consider a person they just met their best friend or someone they love. But, once you do start getting to know them, you’ll be able to rely on them, and when they say we, “definitely need to hang out,” they’ll actually mean it. Then they’ll tell you their whole life story over coffee at 10am with a side of existential conversation to boot.

The Art of La Bise

Saying goodbye (and hello) in France is its own mini-ceremony. Whether you’re leaving a dinner party or wrapping up a business meeting, it’s important to properly acknowledge everyone in the room.

In informal settings this almost always includes la bise — the French cheek kiss — though the exact number of kisses can vary by region (it’s usually two, but more in the south). It never, ever, ever, includes a hug unless you’re with family or very close friends… and even then, most French people do prefer la bise.

Of course this tradition was put into the spotlight during the pandemic and the years following. In my friend group, we were all not-so-secretly really happy to ditch la bise. But, in my opinion, it is officially back, and skipping it would be considered rude. Alas, I’ve had to suck it up and start kissing cheeks again when entering and leaving a room.

All of this said, French etiquette isn’t designed to be frustrating, cold, or annoying — it’s simply more structured than what we’re used to in the US. There are more rules, and where American culture values friendliness, French culture values politesse (politeness) and respect for social boundaries.

As we always say here at TAIP, if you approach your interactions with curiosity, most people will appreciate your effort, even if you don’t get every single rule right the first time.

And when in doubt, you can always blame your I’m-a-foreigner naïveté like I do.

Photo by Sébastien Bloesch on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

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Cost of Living in Paris vs. Other French Cities

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Something that always seems to shock other Americans is when I tell them how low the cost of living in France is compared to the US. You pay HOW MUCH for internet?! I’m usually met with, when I tell people I’ve never paid more than about 30€ per month.

Internet, phone bills, groceries, going out, restaurants, housing, health care… the list goes on and on, and the one thing they all have in common is that they come at a much lower price tag when I look at what many of my compatriots have to pay in the States.

Now, all of this being said, the cost of living in Paris as compared to other French cities is quite high in the scheme of things. If you’re coming from an already-expensive area, you may not seem phased. You may even decide to stay in the capital because at the end of the day, it’s more affordable than someplace like New York, San Francisco, or Boston.

But, if you’re interested in looking into other areas, the good news is that Paris isn’t your only option. France is a diverse, well-connected country with cities that boast rich culture, excellent food, and plenty of charm in their own right.

Housing

Almost always the single largest expense in France (or anywhere else, really), and Paris is known for its higher prices. If you want to rent a one-bedroom apartment in the center of the city, you can expect to pay anywhere from 1,300-2,800€, depending on the neighborhood. Even a studio can easily reach 1,000€ or more.

In comparison, cities like Lyon, Bordeaux, Montpellier, Rennes, and Nantes have much more breathing room — in square meters and budget. In most of these cities, a similar one-bedroom will range from 600-1,200€, or even less if you choose somewhere outside of the center.

Of course, the trade-off is location and lifestyle, but there is still plenty to do and see in places like Bordeaux (where nearly half of all my formerly-Parisian friends now live) and Lyon. A lot of the time, what you give up in cultural activities, you gain back in space, quiet, and a slower pace.

Groceries & Other Essentials

The difference in cost between Paris and smaller cities re: groceries is more subtle but still worth noting. Grocery bills in the capital can definitely run higher than in provincial cities.

However, local markets tend to have more options. Differences in produce and specialty items might even be better in smaller cities, where the supply chain is shorter and prices are less inflated simply because they’re in Paris. 

For example, a kilo of tomatoes might cost 3.50€ in a Parisian market and 2.50€ in a small-town marché.

Utility costs (electricity, gas, water) are pretty similar across France (thanks socialism!), but older Parisian buildings almost always have poor insulation, which makes winter heating costs higher. Internet is around €30-40/month in Paris, while some smaller towns may have deals as low as €20/month, especially if fiber optic hasn’t made it out there yet.

Transportation Costs

One of my favorite things about living in Paris is the robust metro system. I hated being a car owner in the US, so being able to survive vehicle-free has been a major blessing. What’s more, public transportation here is a fraction of what some friends of mine pay in places like NYC. 

My handy Navigo pass covers unlimited metro, bus, tram, and RER (suburban trains) within the Île-de-France region, and currently costs 86.40 € per month.

Other French cities like Lyon, Rennes, or Strasbourg typically have monthly transit passes that cost between 40-65€. If you’re living in a more rural area, you’ll almost certainly need a car, which can get expensive. Gas is around 1.80-2€ per liter, and French car insurance is higher than what you’ll see in the US.

Going Out and Socializing

Another one of my favorite parts of French life is its café culture and general attitude toward socializing. 

Interestingly enough, the price difference for a cup of coffee is very noticeable once you leave Paris. One in the city of lights could set you back 4.50-6€, especially somewhere like Café Flore. In places like Rennes or Angers, that same coffee might only cost 2.50-3.50€.

The same applies to dining out, drinks, and other entertainment. Smaller cities will have more affordable menus and the overall cost of a night out is generally lower. That said, Paris of course gives you more variety… but it comes at a premium.

Healthcare

France’s universal healthcare system, AKA the sécurité sociale ensures that medical costs are fairly consistent across the country. Whether you live in Paris or a countryside village, your reimbursements for doctor appointments and medication will follow the same rates.

The only real caveat here is that finding an English-speaking doctor will likely be much more difficult as opposed to in Paris. If you speak French well, this shouldn’t be an issue.

Paris does boast an unmatched blend of history, culture, and access — but it’s not the only French city worth looking into. 

Ultimately the choice isn’t only about the finances. You need to really think about the kind of life you want to build in France. I know for myself, Paris is irreplaceable and I do not regret a minute I’ve lived here. That said, looking toward the future, now that many of my friends have moved away, I’m no longer in my 20s, and even my French in-laws are planning to move, I do have my eye on some different French cities and towns.

Luckily, there are so many places to choose from, right? 🙂

Photo by Markus Spiske on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

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A Page from 29 Days to France: Getting the Essentials Sorted

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For those of us who have moved to France, we know there’s a moment that comes right after the dream becomes reality — when the plan lands, your feet finally hit French soil, and you realize… Okay, now what?

It’s where the idea of moving to France meets with the very real logistics of actually living in a foreign country. It’s also where a lot of people tend to freeze, and then the panic sets in. What comes first? What needs to be done? What’s “normal” in France compared to what you’re used to back home?

When we wrote 29 Days to France, we wanted to walk people through not just the big picture of immigration paperwork or visa timelines (which are also included, fear not😉), but also the smaller minutiae of getting settled into your new French life. Details like getting a cell phone. Setting up electricity. Opening a bank account.

Are they glamorous tasks? No. But they’re the foundation of pretty much everything else. So today, I wanted to share one full day from the book to give any of you preparing for a move to France a sneak peek at what’s inside. 

Day 13: Getting the Essentials Sorted

Congratulations, you’ve officially arrived in France! You’ve most likely spent the first few days soaking it all in: your new neighborhood, the sound of chattering French, and the smell of buttery croissants in the air. Now that you’ve touched ground and are ready to start your new French life, you need to take care of a few essentials.

What are the essentials? Your cell plan (and new French number), your electricity and gas (handled by the national carrier, EDF), and your French bank account (which will provide you with a debit card). This won’t be the most exciting part of getting settled, but it’s necessary.

Cell Phone Carrier

There are several French cell phone carriers to choose from, including Orange, SFR, Bouygues, and Free. If you’re coming from the United States, you’re in for a pleasant surprise. Cell phone plans in France are much less expensive. I personally have Free and I pay around 20 € per month for unlimited texts and calls within Europe, unlimited internet access, and 30 days of free calls and 25 GB of internet within the US, among other locations. You can sign up for most cell phone plans online, but you can also go to a store and practice your French, if you’d like.

Electricity & Gas

EDF, which stands for Electricité de France, is the leading supplier of electricity in the country. It is majority-owned by the state, which keeps prices affordable. You’ll want to set up your home’s electricity and gas directly with them.

Your landlord most likely will not arrange this for you, so you’ll have to make a few phone calls. Alternatively, you can sign up online, but you need to get used to making these kinds of calls in French so I suggest that you get all of the practice you can! Once you have your French cell phone sorted you can call EDF at 3004. Make sure you have your address on hand.

This is the single most important and reliable proof of residence in France: the attestation that you pay for electricity.

Bank Account

There are also several different French banks to choose from. I have Crédit Agricole and I am really happy with them. They are a smaller bank and I find that the fees are reasonable. To choose for yourself, you’ll need to think about your personal needs. Do you want a larger bank? One that’s foreigner-friendly? Or maybe a small, local bank?

If you want a bank with a reputation of friendliness to foreigners, go for BNP Paribas. Its headquarters are in Paris and it’s the largest bank in France. It’s also among the largest banks in Europe. BNP is used to working with foreigners and I know that they have several representatives who speak English well.

Exercise: Be aware of your needs and do your research, especially when it comes to what you’re looking for in a cell phone and bank account. Practice (write it down if you need to!) what you’ll need to say in French before you call EDF or head to the bank.

Questions to answer: What do I need in a cell phone plan? What do I need in a bank account?

Why This Page Matters

I chose to share this page because it’s such a real moment in the move-to-France journey — one that not many people online talk about. No matter what kind of visa you’re on, no matter your job, family status, or even the city where you live, everyone has to navigate these basics.

And if you’re feeling intimidated by the idea of making a phone call in French, or choosing between a dozen different banks, or not knowing whether you need to bring ID to the phone store (you do) — that’s normal!

The entire goal behind 29 Days to France is to make this process feel less overwhelming and more doable. Not perfect, and not even necessarily easy, but possible. One small, essential step at a time.

If you liked this little excerpt, the full book features 28 other mini-guides just like this one. Each is focused on a task, a mindset shift, or a key moment in the move-to-France journey.

As a special treat for our American in Paris readers, you can purchase the 29 Days to France ebook for just $10 with the coupon code TAIP. We wrote this book with all of you in mind, and hope you enjoy reading it as much as we did writing it 🙂

Photo by Kristina Tochilko on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated.  These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just like at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

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Can I Move to France Without a Job?

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With so many articles on visas, which one to choose, how to apply, how to renew, etc., we often get asked: but, can I move to France without a job?

The short answer is, no, you don’t need a job to move to France, but you do need to prove you can support yourself.

Good news for those who dream of moving here but assume that without a job offer, it’s impossible. While some visas do require employers’ sponsorship, there are many other paths for those without traditional employment.

Even more good news for retirees, freelancers, or someone with independent income.

Let’s dive into the key things to consider when moving to France without a job offer.

Do You Need a Job to Move to France?

Now that you know you don’t, it’s important to note that you must show the French authorities that you have some sort of financial stability before even stepping foot across the border. It makes sense: it may be a socialist country, but les français want reassurance that you won’t become a strain on the state when living here.

In fact, France’s immigration prioritizes financial stability more and more, whether through savings, passive income, or self-employment. If you can meet the financial and legal requirements, you can move to France without an employer sponsoring your stay.

Now, of course, some visa categories (such as employer-sponsored ones) do require a job offer. However, there are several other options available for those willing to plan ahead.

Visa Options for Moving to France Without a Job

1. Visitor Visa (Visa de Long Séjour – Visiteur)

Best for: Retirees, remote workers, individuals with passive income.

Requirements:

Key Consideration: This visa does not allow you to work in France, so you must have enough savings or remote income from outside the country. Contrary to popular belief, as an American, you can work remotely for a US employer while in France on the visitor visa 🙂

2. Profession Libérale Visa (Self-Employed Visa)

Best for: Freelancers, consultants, and business owners.

Requirements:

  • A detailed business plan demonstrating financial viability.
  • Proof of professional activity (e.g., contracts, invoices, website, portfolio).
  • Registration with URSSAF (the French social security system for self-employed workers).

Key Consideration: You must show that your business can generate enough income to support yourself over time, especially if you hope to renew and eventually apply for naturalization.

3. Student Visa

Best for: Those looking to study in France while exploring long-term residency options, those without access to a large amount of financial support and who are willing to go back to school, or folks who simply want to learn French in France.

Requirements:

Key Perk: This visa allows part-time work as well (up to 964 hours per year, around 20 hours per week), making it easier to support yourself while living in France.

4. Talent Passport (Passeport Talent)

Best for: Entrepreneurs, artists, researchers, and highly skilled professionals.

Requirements:

  • Proof of expertise or a recognized contribution in your field.
  • Financial stability and a viable business or research project.

Key Consideration: This visa is more selective — perhaps one of the most selective — but if you can land it, it offers one of the stronger paths to long-term residency and eventually citizenship.

How to Support Yourself in France Without a Job

While the cost of living in France is much lower than in the US, if you plan to move here without employment you’ll still need a reliable source of income — yes, in order to get your visa, but also to find a place to live and support yourself throughout your stay. You can’t forget about all of the travel and exploring you’ll want to do when you get here too.

If you plan to move to France without employment, here are some options that come to mind as well as the visas to go with them:

  • Savings: Many who aren’t too fussed about obtaining nationality one day choose the visitor visa, and a chunky savings account is the easiest way to prove financial means. Be prepared to share bank statements at your visa application appointment if you do go this route.
  • Freelancing or remote work: Consider finding a remote job in the US that is willing to allow you to live in France. Then, have your employer write a letter indicating you will not be working with French clients. Or, apply for the profession libérale visa if you’d prefer to have French and European clients.
  • Start a business: One of the more expensive and complicated ways to move to France. That said, if you have an entrepreneurial mindset you could come up with a plan to build a business in France and come over under the passeport talent.
  • Part-time work: Remember that student visa holders can work up to 20 hours per week, which can help supplement savings or support from family.

Whatever direction you choose, planning ahead is key. Again, you will be required to prove your financial situation at your visa interview, but beyond that, you want to be able to enjoy your séjour en France without having to stress about cash.

And if you need help coming up with a plan, please get in touch!

Photo by Alice Triquet on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.

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How to Shop at an Outdoor Market in Paris

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Visiting the marché is one of my favorite weekly activities, and I especially love going with either my French husband (a professional chef) or my French mother-in-law (an incredible cook herself). They seem to know exactly where to go, who to talk to, and what to choose. 

It’s almost as if they’ve lived here their whole lives… oh, wait.

Outdoor markets are a staple of daily life in France and Paris is no exception. You’ll find everything from farm-fresh produce to artisanal cheeses and even household goods, depending on where you go.

Shopping at an outdoor market in Paris is a must, whether you live here too or are just passing through. Here are a few things I wish I had known before going for the first time.

When to Go

Paris markets have specific opening times, so knowing when to go is the first step in planning your visit. Most operate two to three days a week, and the hours can vary from one market to another. Typically, they’re open in the morning and close by early afternoon — usually around 1 or 2pm.

I hate to say it for all of my fellow night owls, but to beat the crowds and get the best selection, you have to get there early in the morning when the vendors are just setting up. My mother-in-law lives and breathes by this. Oftentimes, if she can’t get there by 8am (her market opens at 7am), she won’t go at all. Quel est l’intérêt ? “What’s the point?” she’ll shrug when asked.

Now, there is a caveat to this if budget is a real concern. The other option would be to head out just before closing, as many vendors will be eager to clear out their stock before the next day — at reduced prices to boot.

To find the exact days and hours of the markets you’re interested in, check online or use the app Marcoo.

What Stalls to Expect

If you’ve never been to an outdoor market in Paris before, you’ll notice there’s a wide variety of stands that offer all kinds of things. Wandering through one is truly a feast for the senses — I don’t recommend shopping while you’re hungry or you may end up with a lot more than you originally planned for.

Here’s what you can typically find:

  • Seasonal fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
  • High-quality cuts of meat, poultry, fresh fish, and seafood.
  • A selection of French cheeses, farm-fresh eggs, and sometimes butter.
  • Freshly baked bread, pastries, and viennoiseries.
  • Rotisserie chicken, roasted potatoes, paella, and other prepared foods.
  • Olives, nuts, honey, jams, and spices.
  • Some also have stalls with flowers, kitchenware, linens, and apparel.

One of my top questions when shopping with my French fam is: how do you know which vendor to choose? There are often several stalls that sell the same or similar items… how can you tell which one is the best?

After insisting that, “Well I’ve been coming here so long I just know,” didn’t satisfy my curiosity, my husband broke it down a bit further.

Freshness and quality matter. Take a good look at the state of the produce — bright, vibrant colors and firm textures usually mean it’s fresh. Stalls with steady lines of locals are a great place to start, and if the vendors are talkative and friendly (yes, they exist in France) it’s also a good sign. Prices will vary, but steer clear of drastically lower ones as that could indicate, well, lower quality.

And, in the quintessentially French manner, the hubs says very simply that le feeling (the vibe, the ambiance) he gets when stepping in front of a stall determines where he’ll spend his money. 

I’ve somewhat stopped trying to understand what that really means, but that’s another story for another article.

How to Choose Your Produce

Shopping at a French market is different from grabbing groceries at a supermarket. Vendors take pride in their products, and bien sûr, there’s a bit of etiquette involved.

  • Look for seasonal produce: French markets focus on in-season fruits and vegetables, so don’t expect to find strawberries or tomatoes in December.
  • Check for quality: Remember to look for vibrant colors and firm textures, as well as fresh smells.
  • Know Thy Categories: Some markets label produce by origin — bio (organic), local, or imported. I typically go for the organic local stuff over anything imported, unless it’s from Spain, Italy, or another closeby country.
  • Let vendors choose for you: Unlike in the US, it’s considered rude to handle the produce yourself. Nothing against you or your cleanliness, but in France, interacting with the vendors is all a part of the experience. Tell them what you want, and they’ll pick the best items for you.
  • Ask for recommendations: They also know their products well. Don’t hesitate to ask which melon is the sweetest or what’s best for a recipe you have in mind.

The Best Outdoor Markets to Visit in Paris

There are more than a whopping 80 markets in Paris going on in a given week — from small neighborhood spots to sprawling marchés with stall after stall of goods. Here are a few of the most popular ones, plus one of my personal favorites:

  • Marché Bastille (75011): One of the biggest, with everything from organic produce to artisan bread.
  • Marché des Enfants Rouges (75003): The oldest covered market in Paris offers a mix of fresh produce, international foods, and one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever tried from Alain Miam Miam. Trust.
  • Marché d’Aligre (75012): Known for affordable produce and antiques.
  • Marché Raspail (75006): Great if you love organic food and other high-quality products.
  • Marché de la Place Monge (75005): My top choice for its intimate, small neighborhood feel and high-quality produce, fresh seafood, and cheeses. It’s right near the Arènes de Lutèce in the 5th arrondissement.

Before you walk out the door, make sure you have cash and reusable bags, and get ready to practice your French. A polite bonjour here and there will get you a really long way. So will a French friend, so bring one of those if you’ve got ‘em too.

Photo by Anurag Arora on Unsplash

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The Ritual of the French Apéro

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If you’ve spent an extended amount of time in France with actual French people, you know all about the ritual of the apéro — and that ritual is the best word to describe it.

Consistently splitting my time between the United States and France basically ever since I made my big move in 2014, I can’t help but notice and reflect on the cultural differences between Americans and French people. 

One of the many things that the French do right is their attitude around socializing, entertaining, and hosting. The French are inherently social whereas Americans (at least the ones I know and love) are fundamentally individualist — this comes out in so, so many ways — something I would have never figured out if I hadn’t committed to splitting my life in two amongst the two cultures.

After some extended time with my French in-laws over the holidays, it suddenly hit my I-spend-too-much-time-online millennial brain: did the French invent yapping? For my less chronically online readers, to yap is to chat, and boy do the French love to chit-chat. It’s totally normal for a group of friends to meet up around 5pm to begin apéro, only to part in the wee hours of the morning. And what did they do for the past eight or nine hours, you may ask? They talked. And enjoyed their apéro.

The Meaning and History of l’Apéro

Apéro is the colloquial version of the word apéritif, which comes from the Latin word aperire, meaning “to open.” It makes sense — l’apéro “opens” the meal and is meant to stimulate the appetite. 

In the past, apéritifs were herbal or medicinal drinks like fortified wine or bitter liqueurs designed to help digestion. This practice dates back to the Middle Ages, but it grew in popularity with the masses in the 19th century when drinks like vermouth, pastis, and Suze became widely available and enjoyed.

Over time, l’apéro evolved beyond a simple pre-dinner drink into a full-fledged social event. Now, that’s not to say that most French people have parties every night of the week before dinner. My in-laws usually have a beer along with some savory snacks like chips or pretzels (the only time I ever see them snack, really) before dinner when my husband and I come over. They still call it apéro, but it’s not as elaborate.

As the tradition grew, it transformed into a moment of relaxation, conversation, and conviviality that is deeply embedded in French culture. Unlike American happy hours, where discounted drinks and quick socializing are the name of the game, the French apéro is about slowing down, savoring the moment, and participating in some good old-fashioned existential conversation.

Whenever I have evening plans with my French friends, 99% of the time we’re having l’apéro at someone’s apartment. It’s an opportunity to débriefer our weeks, catch up on gossip, and spend time together. Everyone is responsible for bringing something to eat and drink, and it often turns into an apéro dinatoire, in which snack food becomes more substantial so we don’t have to worry about cooking a big meal.

The Unspoken Apéro Rules

As I already alluded to, l’apéro is not about getting as drunk as quickly as you can, so one of the first rules every American should heed is to pace yourself. This isn’t pregaming or predrinks. It’s sipping and savoring. I have never taken shots at l’apéro.

Another unspoken rule I briefly mentioned is that everyone is expected to show up with something. I’ve found this to be true at any French social engagement, and it’s something that isn’t as engrained into American culture: if you’re invited somewhere, you bring something along, even if no one asked you to. My French husband was appalled when I told him, “We don’t really do that in the States.” Now, even when we are in the US, we always bring a little gift and I’m honestly glad we do even though it’s not the norm. People appreciate it.

I digress. The next rule to abide by is to prepare yourself for constant conversation for several hours straight. As the more reserved, American person I am, I have to admit that by hour six or seven I’m usually ready to go home, whereas my husband could keep yapping along for another five. Topics range from things like what’s going on in our day-to-day lives, things we got up to over the week, what’s going on at work, to politics, religion, and, yes, existential topics like life, death, and what happens next. I’m not kidding or exaggerating at all — this level of depth is what I like most about the French, and you really see it come out at l’apéro.

I think the last unspoken rule is to respect the ritual. Again, l’apéro is not a pregame for a wild night out and when done right you shouldn’t have a headache the next morning. It’s a moment to relax after a long day or week, to catch up with friends, family, and loved ones, to enjoy a great glass of wine, to share good conversation, and to bask in the fact that you are where you are without any other place to be. 

I don’t think we have anything like it in the US. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong.

Photo by Etienne Girardet on Unsplash

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How to Spend a Day in Lyon

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Only a 2-hour train ride from Paris, Lyon is a great city for exploring the southeastern side of France. With an accessible airport, well-connected train stations, and an exceptional metro, I’d argue that it is the most visitor-friendly city in the country. 

Living in the South myself, I’m grateful to have this beacon of civilization within arm’s reach. In the past six months alone, I’ve had the opportunity to meet up with three friends passing through Lyon, each on separate occasions.

The first person to show me around the city was a true Lyonnais. I’ve used his blueprint of how to spend a day there on multiple occasions, with little tweaks and variations along the way. If you haven’t explored this ancient city yet, let this be your sign; now is the time.

How to Get Around

You don’t need to wait in line for a metro pass, hassle with an app, or keep track of tickets. Simply scan your touchless payment method (card or phone) at the entry of any public transport and you’re good to go. This applies to all busses, lifts, undergrounds, and trams. It is by far my favorite part about Lyon’s transportation system.

Start at Place Belle-Cœur

In the heart of the city, this square offers a variety of shops and an impressive view of the Fourvière Basilica to the west (your next stop). Surrounded by shops and alleys to get lost in, this uptown center puts its best foot forward. During my most recent trip, I was introduced to La Procure St. Paul, an enchanting bookstore in the plaza with an impressive selection of philosophy and children’s literature. 

Begin the Ascent

After a little browsing, make your way out of the square and across the Saône River on the Bonaparte Bridge. Take in the view on your way. Continue straight to the entrance for the funiculaire. This metropolitan lift offers a direct ride to the foot of the Fourvière Basilica. Scan your touchless payment method at the entrance and be on your way up. 

The Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Spectacular in every sense, this basilica is sure to take your breath away. But before entering, follow along the left side to take a look out at the entire city. The two rivers that divide it, the Saône and the Rhône, can be seen from this vantage point. You’ll also notice the sea of red rooftops, a hallmark of Lyon.

Return to the front to enter the Basilica and brace yourself for more beauty. While inside, don’t miss the crypt entrance inside of the church on the right. 

The Gallo Roman Theatre

When you’re ready to move, take a five-minute walk to the neighboring Roman ruins. This open-air theater is free to explorers. Make your way down from top to bottom. For true history enthusiasts, the Lugdunum Museum offers more on its archeological findings.

Ready to head back down the hill, I’d suggest taking another ride on the funicular. The F1 line, just next to the theater, will take you directly to the Vieux Lyon (old town). On exiting the metro, turn left.

Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste

While in old town, a stop inside the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is indispensable. This magnificent building is home to an astronomical clock, at the end of the left wing. Tracking not only the time, but the years, the days, and the moon, it is a work of art in and of itself. I recommend landing there on the hour, to have the privilege of its full display.

Continuing straight through the square will take you down to the center of the old city.

Old Lyon

This cobblestoned corner is designed for the pedestrian. Riddled with restaurants and shops, Vieux Lyon is an excellent area for getting lunch and spending an afternoon. Cultural references to the city’s history are around every turn — marionette puppets, Lyon’s own Antoine of Saint-Exupéry’s Le Petit Prince, and odes to cinema, to name a few. 

With the invention of the Lumière cinematograph in 1885, Lyon was ground zero for the reproduction of moving images and the movie industry as we know it today. The Cinema and Miniature Museum, as well as the Lumière Museum, offer cinematic histories to true movie fans.

Having walked the breadth of old town, you can cross back to the city’s center on the Feuillée Bridge. This road will lead you directly to Lyon’s city hall. 

Hôtel de Ville and the National Opera of Lyon

Lyon’s city hall is an iconic spot, surrounded by cafés and restaurants centered around the celebrated Bartholdi Fountain. Just around the corner lies the National Opera. For the more courageous, head to its panoramic terrace for a drink — no reservations needed.

Let the Adventure Continue

In a city as vibrant and expansive as Lyon, this proposed itinerary just barely touches the surface of all there is to see and do. There are many theaters, experiences, and museums to explore that I have not had the pleasure of visiting. There’s even a zoo! Don’t be afraid to follow your nose and forge your own path around this lively metropolis.

Photo from my first proper trip to Lyon in 2024. 

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My First (and Possibly Last) Brocante

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I’ve strolled past dozens of brocantes (antique fairs) in my decade in France, but it was only last month that I finally had a mission which took me to one as a participant, not just as a passer-by.

I often tell friends that it’s important to commemorate milestones as you get older. When you’re younger perhaps your family or your superiors will do it for you (a graduation, a promotion) but later in life your achievements and milestones can and should be marked in some way. I tend to do this with a gift which I would ordinarily not have bought for myself, but justified because of an achievement. For example, after a month studying French in the Alps I bought myself a Mondaine Swiss Railways watch. I’ve loved the design since the first summer I spent in Switzerland (2014) and was mesmerized by seeing the railway clocks at all the platforms I stood on. It wasn’t until 2018, four years later, that I “decided” to mark my quantum leap forward in French that I made in the Alps with this gift for myself.

That brings us to my citizenship interview of a couple of months ago and a desire to mark the end of several parts of various journeys. I have loved the classic designs of Saint James for some time now, but have put off buying one of their sweaters (jumpers, my dear UK readers) due to cost. Good, long-lasting clothing does cost more, and I’m not hesitant to pay for such clothing, but perhaps I was waiting for an occasion, and acing my citizenship interview called for one.

And yet, I wondered if I might not be able to pick up the design I wanted at any of the used clothing stores in Paris or at Vinted or Le Bon Coin. A quick search didn’t yield anything in my size for the designs I was looking for, and I didn’t want to put in the time looking through the racks at used clothing stores, even with the easy-to-spot marinière design I was looking for.

“There’s a brocante in the Marais this weekend,” an artsy friend shared. Curious, I thought “why not” and planned on a speed tour of this sprawling event.

But “speed” and “brocante” don’t go together. At all.

I felt very much in the minority. Many people were unhurriedly moving from stall to stall, sometimes nursing a drink or a cigarette. They weren’t sure what they were looking for (if they were looking for anything) but they would know it when they found it. I, on the other hand, was on a mission. I was only looking for vendors selling clothes, men’s clothes, featuring sweaters, in marinière design, from Saint James.

I did move fairly quickly, but still managed to enjoy the rhythms of everyone else around me. I realized about halfway through my hour of diligent perusal that Saint James sweaters aren’t often for sale because people like them so much and as such, keep them.

So, I wouldn’t have my story of finding that sweater and bargaining for it with one of the vendors (all of whom seemed to carry that look of effortless chic necessary to haul out a bunch of “junk” and sell it to hordes of Parisians). But I would still have my sweater, after all.

I made my way to the pocket Saint James store a few streets over and tried on two different styles of the design I was looking for, one a bit more fitted (the traditional version) and the other a bit looser. I really liked both but ended up with the traditional Matelot (no surprise there) and really appreciated the attentiveness and suggestions of the team at this location.

Why are Parisians so fascinated by brocantes? Dozens of reasons, I’m sure, but the main ones are:

  • the chance to find that one item that fits their personality and would add an element of charm to their apartment or office
  • to stroll with friends and while away an afternoon
  • to look for something specific

And while I did not find what I wanted at a brocante, I finally figured out, by experience, just why so many people frequent them. If you’re near one, don’t miss this quintessential French experience.

Photo taken on Rue de Bretagne, just a few steps away from the former Mairie of the 3rd arrondissement, now, along with the 1st, 2nd, and 4th arrondissements, simply known as “Paris Centre.” Notice you can slurp down an oyster on a break from your antique shopping. 🙂

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french outdoor market

Living in France on a Budget

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Note from the editor: Writer Susan Jordan is an American who has been living on her own in Europe since she left the US in 2012. She has lived in France since 2019 and is currently working on her 10-year card application. As a lawyer in the US, she was accustomed to dealing with government bureaucracies and paperwork, but getting accurate information in a foreign country can be overwhelming. She has survived so far and now shares her knowledge with the hopes of helping others. — MS

Where to Live

Americans moving to France, if they are in a position to pay cash, ideally should buy a home here. Since that is not an option for me, I have lived in four French rental apartments in four different departments. I’ve heard that buying a home is much easier than renting, which would not be surprising given my experience.

As a “candidate” for an apartment, one must submit a dossier before viewing a potential rental. This will usually include a document showing monthly income paid in France, three utility bills for the past three months showing a French address, tax returns, an employment contract, and identification (a passport will do). A family guarantor (and resident of France) would be helpful. Sometimes commercial guarantors are acceptable. Of course, buying a home requires substantial paperwork, too, but if you are a cash buyer with sufficient proof of income, the path to moving in should be easier. 

How to Get Around

If you are comfortable with public transportation, living without a car in France is possible. Choosing a city with tram systems is best as many areas of France are quite car-dependent. Bus lines vary a great deal in scope and reliability depending on the commercial operator. French trains have increased their fares since the pandemic and service on some lines has even been dropped. For that reason, I like ride-sharing, otherwise known as covoiturage. 

For intercity travel, blablacar works well if you are selective about the drivers you choose, following reviews and ratings carefully. Flexibility in terms of travel dates and destinations also is helpful when using blablacar. I have known some French people who simply rent a vehicle when they need to travel as a family. This eliminates some bureaucracy involved with car ownership, insurance coverage, as well as the necessity of finding parking near one’s home. Why pay to maintain a deteriorating asset like a car when it can be rented as needed? 

What to Eat and Drink

Food and drink are often less expensive and of higher quality than what is available at the typical US supermarket. Even villages in France have weekly or bi-weekly marchés offering fresh fruit and vegetables in the center of town. Large chain supermarkets like Lidl, Aldi, Leclerc, and Intermarche are usually located on the outer rims of cities, requiring a bus for access. Lidl and Aldi are the best bets for low-priced but generally good-quality products. Sometimes small appliances and clothing can be found at Lidl and Aldi if you don’t mind some searching. 

How and Where to Shop

For furniture and other items for the home, Ikea and other home decor stores can be found on the outskirts of most cities. Brocantes (secondhand shops) and some marchés have less expensive secondhand furniture, with more style options and better quality. Or, if your French is sufficient, you can deal with individuals selling on sites like leboncoin.com but be careful that whatever you buy is actually functional. I prefer payment on delivery rather than ahead of delivery, which can be risky. 

This brings me to one basic French shop with which I have had good consumer experiences. Monoprix has frequent sales beyond the normal  January and June sales and, for my money, the best customer service.  Returning products is just not a common function of most French stores. However, if you show a sales slip (and one time it worked for me without one),  Monoprix will give a cash return within 30 days. Leclerc may give store credit within two weeks with a receipt but this is not a consistent practice across all Leclerc stores. They operate individually, despite the common ownership, so items must be returned only to the store where purchased. The concept of easy cash returns, so familiar to American consumers, has not crossed the Atlantic! 

Living in France on Minimum Wage

Although it’s no doubt more fun and less stressful to live in France with loads of disposable income, it is possible to live on SMIC (salaire minimum de croissance). At the time of writing, SMIC is 1500 euros per month, subject to change when the French budget is passed. If you are of a certain age, discounts can be found for train travel (30%) but not the cinema, oddly. If you have a carte vitale and are lucky enough to not live in a medical desert (at present, unfortunately, I do), most medical costs are covered, except dental and vision.

I am always looking for inexpensive solutions for day-to-day living in France. I will pass on tips as I find them, though that can be as quixotic as an untrained pig hunting for truffles. 

Photo by Jade Marchand on Unsplash

Did you enjoy this article? TAIP is 100% reader-supported through tipping. If you want to leave us a tip of any amount it would be highly appreciated. These tips help support our efforts to keep TAIP an ad-free environment. Just as at a cafe, the tips are split evenly among the team.